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does the non nav package juke still have the wiring for the woofer back there so i could run my own woofer or does the factory head unit have rca outs?
No RCA outputs


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OK, the rears on my Juke are as follows...
Teal, or Light Blue or BLuish Green = Positive.

I did a test on the old speakers and the teal side was definitely positive.

Yes, both rears are the same color.
Sorry for the mis-info above. But it is still different from the chart a bit.

I was working from memory. (bad memory apparently)
Hey Sharky...happen to remember what the front positive colors were? I too have the teal rear...hooked both positive and they sound great...gonna do fronts tomorrow.
 
These are the wiring colors in my 2011 LS AWD
 
How are the factory tweeters wired? Is there a cross over? Are the wires at the door speakers carrying full range or low pass?

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I'd like to know that too! My driver's side tweeter isn't making any sound, and I would rather check the connections myself before going through the hassle of warranty work.
 
How are the factory tweeters wired? Is there a cross over? Are the wires at the door speakers carrying full range or low pass?
That is an excellent question. Since I can't resist modifying, I just had to buy replacement speakers for the "Premium" sound system in my "SL".

According to the 2013 Service Manual's wiring diagram there is no indication of a crossover between the A-pillar's tweeter and the door's mid-woofer. They're wired in parallel from a single feed. I didn't see any crossover at the door speaker when I had recently taken a peek for fitment. Neither do I recall seeing a crossover at the tweeter while I had the A-pillar cover removed during an unrelated project.

I purchased separate, mid-woofer & tweeter, speakers by DLS for the front. The crossover is fairly large and there's the rub! I need to separate the wiring between the tweeters and the door speakers. The wiring diagram simply shows the tweeter electrically wired in parallel to the door speaker (somewhere behind the dash) before the wire enters through to the door. But where exactly does the wiring split?

I may have to extract the "NAV" head unit and splice in the crossover at the NAV Unit's audio connector (M107) harness behind the dash. Then use the existing wiring from the crossover to the door speaker. Disconnect the existing wiring at the tweeter (terminate it carefully to avoid shorts) and add a separate wire from the crossover to the A-pillar tweeter.

C'est la vie de Juke!

FYI - connector info behind the audio head unit:

(Premium Audio) NAVI Control Unit = Connector M107 [terminals 1-20]
(Standard) Audio Unit = Connector M91 [terminals 1-19]

Terminal 2 = Front Left Speaker (+) color W
Terminal 3 = Front Left Speaker (-) color GR
Terminal 11 = Front Right Speaker (+) color G
Terminal 12 = Front Right Speaker (-) color R

DISCLAIMER:
The above wiring information is from the 2013 Juke Service Manual.
I have not yet personally verified the above speaker wire terminal locations behind the audio head unit.
Proceed at your own risk!
 
How are the factory tweeters wired? Is there a cross over? Are the wires at the door speakers carrying full range or low pass?

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My guess is there is a cap in the tweeter to filter out the low frequency's, that is what Nissan did in my 2013 Altima. It was actually part of the speaker and between the wire harness jack and coil of the speaker. I think this is pretty normal practice in low to mid quality speakers, you usually don't see external crossover's until you get into high end aftermarket separates.
 
Hi all,
Having major wiring conflict with a Android 4.4 head unit I’m trying to install in my 2014 Juke ST.
The wiring seems to be very different to anything else I have seen so far on this forum. I have also looked extensively online for an adaptor to suit the ISO connector on the new head unit but to no avail. There are 2 connectors;
White, 20 pin connector;
Brown, Brown (lighter), Green, Green (lighter), Red, Pink, Yellow x2, Purple x 2, White, White(with grey dot), Teal, Blue, Light Blue, Black.
White, 12 pin connector;
Black x 3, Red, Green.
Anyone out there with a better idea of what goes where? Still yet to investigate how I am going to go about connecting the steering wheel controls as I’m sure they have changed now too.
 
20 pin connector pins 6, 15, and 16 are the steering wheel left side controls. An interface is required between those pins and the aftermarket radio. I am using a Kenwood Dnn992 with the Idatalink Maestro RR interface to provide both steering wheel controls and gauges from the OBD2 connector pins 6 and 14. There is also the PAC SW1-RC steering wheel interface (cheaper) that works with most aftermarket radios.

I am still working on three unresolved issues. I bought the radio, idatalinkMaestro RR and interface cabling from Crutchfield. There are no interface cables to connect the subwoofer, rear camera or factory microphone to the Kenwood headunit. Crutchfield advises that I would lose these factory functions. I disagree. Their answer is based upon lack of interface cables, which their supplier does not make. I'll do it myself over the next few weeks.
 
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hi all. Planning to place my 2011 Juke OEM unit into my 1991 Mazda Miata. Bought the plugs to go from Juke to Miata. I've matched wires on the plugs, and it works well.

Question: Anyone know how to attached an Aux 3.5 plug to the back so I can play my iPod, MP3 player, phone, etc...???

I now know what part I need - but having real issues locating the part. Attached picture. 24039-BH00A 8 pin female connector plugs . One end attaches to the back of the Juke unit [small gray connector lower right] the other end attaches to the AUX/USB plug in dash. Help!!!! If anyone knows of a source to purchase for shipment to US...... please let me know.

Thanks, Carol
 

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That is an excellent question. Since I can't resist modifying, I just had to buy replacement speakers for the "Premium" sound system in my "SL".

According to the 2013 Service Manual's wiring diagram there is no indication of a crossover between the A-pillar's tweeter and the door's mid-woofer. They're wired in parallel from a single feed. I didn't see any crossover at the door speaker when I had recently taken a peek for fitment. Neither do I recall seeing a crossover at the tweeter while I had the A-pillar cover removed during an unrelated project.

I purchased separate, mid-woofer & tweeter, speakers by DLS for the front. The crossover is fairly large and there's the rub! I need to separate the wiring between the tweeters and the door speakers. The wiring diagram simply shows the tweeter electrically wired in parallel to the door speaker (somewhere behind the dash) before the wire enters through to the door. But where exactly does the wiring split?

I may have to extract the "NAV" head unit and splice in the crossover at the NAV Unit's audio connector (M107) harness behind the dash. Then use the existing wiring from the crossover to the door speaker. Disconnect the existing wiring at the tweeter (terminate it carefully to avoid shorts) and add a separate wire from the crossover to the A-pillar tweeter.

C'est la vie de Juke!

FYI - connector info behind the audio head unit:

(Premium Audio) NAVI Control Unit = Connector M107 [terminals 1-20]
(Standard) Audio Unit = Connector M91 [terminals 1-19]

Terminal 2 = Front Left Speaker (+) color W
Terminal 3 = Front Left Speaker (-) color GR
Terminal 11 = Front Right Speaker (+) color G
Terminal 12 = Front Right Speaker (-) color R

DISCLAIMER:
The above wiring information is from the 2013 Juke Service Manual.
I have not yet personally verified the above speaker wire terminal locations behind the audio head unit.
Proceed at your own risk!
Did you find the point in the factory loom behind the dash where it Y splits from the HU to the factory tweeter and the factory 6.5?

*Note: have to mount an aftermarket crossover in this point, or run new wire which is a PITA for new components.*
 
Did you find the point in the factory loom behind the dash where it Y splits from the HU to the factory tweeter and the factory 6.5?

*Note: have to mount an aftermarket crossover in this point, or run new wire which is a PITA for new components.*
I could swear The tweeters branched off from the 6.5's from in the door, then up to the A-Pillars. It's been so long, I don't fully recall the oem wiring.
When I had passive x-overs in. They were mounted in the kick panel area, and all new wires were run to the fronts. As much of a headache that may seem, it's easier than tracking down wires before the door jam, adding slack, and patching in. You'd still need to run new lines to the tweeters anyway....Unless you put the x-overs in the doors, which is a no no.
 
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