[pamjeffs]

Took my 2012 Nissan Juke with 85K miles in to dealer and wound up paying around $1,300 for
Fuel Sensor Replacement(recall)
Wheel Alignment repair
Four new tires(@$600)
Brake rotors/calipers
Replacement key

A soon as I drove car off lot, car was driving sluggishly with little acceleration and all the symptoms described here on this forum by people with Turbo Issues. I had not experienced any issues like this prior to bringing car in for service on fuel sensor recall and alignment issues etc

After significant time, (full day and a half of diagnostics) requiring service manager/formen involvement due to mechanics inability to pin point problem, service advisor tells me my turbo charger/system is gone and will require $2,100 to replace/repair.

Could this really be "merely a coincidence" (as suggested by the service advisor) that the turbo charger on my 2012 Juke malfunctioned within the first 4 miles of driving the car off the lot after having services performed?

Any possible connection between the services performed as (fuel sensor tightening or other) an turbo malfunction or could anything that was done to the car (or not done) have accelerated the demise of my turbo charger?

I have a hard time believing that the need to replace the turbo mechanism is merely a coincidence?

Any thoughts? Any suggestions? any recourse?

This all does not feel right to me

Thank You in advance for any advice or insight you might be able to provide

 

[NissanEgg]

Every Juke I have seen with the P2263 code so far has been the result of a dead turbo from a clogged oil feed tube. That's 11 Jukes in 3 years time. Chances are this is what happened to you.

Newest TSB for the Jukes that just came out on March 31, 2016.

NTB16-035
March 31, 2016

JUKE; TURBOCHARGER SERVICE


APPLIED VEHICLES:
2012-2016 Juke (F15)

APPLIED ENGINES:
MR16DDT
MR16DDT NISMO RS specification
SERVICE INFORMATION
Whenever a turbocharger on an Applied Vehicle is replaced for any reason, always replace with the part listed below:

Oil Supply/Inlet Tube (TUBE-TURBOCHARGER OIL FEED)*

* This is the steel tube that feeds oil from the engine front to the turbocharger housing.
Always replace this part on either of the Turbocharger configurations available on the Juke.

 

[mission juke]

Every Juke I have seen with the P2263 code so far has been the result of a dead turbo from a clogged oil feed tube. That's 11 Jukes in 3 years time. Chances are this is what happened to you.

Newest TSB for the Jukes that just came out on March 31, 2016.

Is there any maintenance to do to prevent this from happening?

 

[NissanEgg]

Just use synthetic oils and I recommend changing every 3000-3750 miles. I do NOT believe in Nissan's recommendation of 5000 mile oil changes.
Also let the engine idle for about 30 seconds to 1 minute before shutting off to allow the turbo to cool down some to prevent oil coking.

 

[Macgyver]

Since the Turbo is coolant cooled. How is coking a problem nowadays compared to turbos of years past?

 

[ahurdle0]

This exact thing happened to my 2012 Juke, but because the oil lines were blocked the dealer said my extended warranty wouldn't cover the repair costs of $2900. They replaced the entire turbo, but I drove off the lot, and 12 miles later the same issue happened. They're claiming that there was so much buildup in my engine that the lines were blocked again within the 12 miles. Is this even possible? It had only been about 4000 since my last oil change and I always use synthetic.

 

[pamjeffs]

Technical Service Bulletin (NTB12-021B) on Fuel Rail Sensor

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs...2v069-3456.pdf

Does't the process of tightening the fuel pressure sensor involve working in and around turbo hoses etc

(step 8) "loosen clamp on upper air hose to rear turbo and remove hose from turbo inlet and insert rag over hose to prevent debris from entering hose"...leading to turbo.....

Reads to me like performance under the recall on fuel rail sensor by dealership could have been performed by a mechanic who did not take necessary precautions to prevent debris from entering turbo...

My research in process/steps involved in recall clearly shows that there is a connection after all between the process/steps required to inspect/replace/tighten fuel rail sensor (what a difficult/complex "little" bugger to get access to) and the likelihood/possibility of damaging the Turbo. This coupled with fact that engine was a mess (with oil/grease all over engine when returned to me) would suggest that executing the inspection/replacement/tightening of fuel sensor was a bit of a messy project, at least for this mechanic.

No coincidence after at all

No?

 

[CDN JUKE RS]

Technical Service Bulletin (NTB12-021B) on Fuel Rail Sensor

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs...2v069-3456.pdf

Does't the process of tightening the fuel pressure sensor involve working in and around turbo hoses etc

(step 8) "loosen clamp on upper air hose to rear turbo and remove hose from turbo inlet and insert rag over hose to prevent debris from entering hose"...leading to turbo.....

Reads to me like performance under the recall on fuel rail sensor by dealership could have been performed by a mechanic who did not take necessary precautions to prevent debris from entering turbo...

My research in process/steps involved in recall clearly shows that there is a connection after all between the process/steps required to inspect/replace/tighten fuel rail sensor (what a difficult/complex "little" bugger to get access to) and the likelihood/possibility of damaging the Turbo. This coupled with fact that engine was a mess (with oil/grease all over engine when returned to me) would suggest that executing the inspection/replacement/tightening of fuel sensor was a bit of a messy project, at least for this mechanic.

No coincidence after at all

No?

pamjeffs - you already posted this in your very own thread started today http://www.jukeforums.com/forum/nissan-juke-engine-discussion/190569-turbo-damage-issue.html

 

[pamjeffs]

yes
error on my part for starting inquiry in to this turbo issue under this thread
will not duplicate going forward but felt readers of either thread should be made aware of the connection between fuel sensor repair/replacement and possible turbo damage...

will halt duplication in dual threads

 

[Lazarus]

Since the Turbo is coolant cooled. How is coking a problem nowadays compared to turbos of years past?

You know i was told it was coolant cooled so there wouldn't be no need to leave your engine idle before shut off. I had mentioned a while back about if this car as turbo timer so it lets the oil run its course when the engine is turned off, but someone replied that this isn't old school anymore these are coolant cooled. Which i think is Awesome.

 

[NissanEgg]

You still need to let it idle for a few seconds before shutting off. The turbo is still extremely hot even with coolant cavities the oil can break down in the extremely tiny oil feed tube and coke or turn to grit. Compound that with people who don't regularly change their oil at the proper intervals or use conventional oils and this problem happens sooner than you think.

 

[Macgyver]

Roger that.

 

[Jstaples17]

Would a turbo timer be something that would make sense for the waiting or rather not wanting to wait for the turbo to cool down?

 

[Macgyver]

From what he is saying. Use good quality Synthetic oil and that will resist coking. Add in the fact that is it water cooled. Pull into your parking zone and you will be fine by remembering once in a while.

Now on the other hand. Is there a simple video out there on how you can check on that oil line so you can do a P/M on her say every 25k miles.

 

[NissanEgg]

Basically remove the banjo bolt on the turbo for the oil feel tube. IF the bolt has gritty stuff inside the hole, or you can see gritty stuff in the banjo portion of the tube, replace the tube and both banjo bolts. Don't forget the copper gaskets for both ends of the tube.

If you still have the primary cat on, you will have to take a prybar and bend back some of the heatshielding on the cat to get the banjo bolt off at the engine.


As for turbo timers, I don't know how that would work on a I-key setup with out a standard "twist-key" ignition. I do have a BNIB Speed For Sale turbo timer for a R35 GT-R as they use a similar BCM system, just need to figure out if it will work on a Juke.

 

[Jstaples17]

Egg,

Let me know if you feel like parting with it and if it will work for the push button start. I completely forgot about that.

 

[CBarr]

Yes! This exact scenario happened to me! I took it in immediately only for them to tell me the Turbo basically blew up and shot shards of metal through my gas line and into my engine which destroyed my engine. They are telling me that it's because (I) ran it out of oil!?! And that's why it blew up. Every mechanic that I talk to (outside of Nissan) said that the oil was likely burned up once the Turbo started to go bad and blew, not the other way around. Oil just doesn't disappear for no reason. Incidentally the oil light never came on to tell me that I had no oil, so the likely scenario is the oil was burned after the Turbo blew up. I know you're incident happened several years ago, but what did Nissan do for you?

 

[turboboxer6spd]

In reality, several OEM stock turbo cars do burn a little bit of oil. Pistons rings do let just a tiny bit of blow by from the crankcase through and oil can be burned. I don't know why turbo cars are worse other than possible higher crankcase pressures, but you should always check your oil. Although pieces of turbo can enter your engine, they cannot do it through the fuel line either, they could however travel through the charge piping and into the cylinder head which could chew up a piston or valves. It's a shame. Synthetic oil really is the key to combat oil coking from heat

 

[NissanEgg]

It's physically impossible for turbo parts to make it into intake side of the engine as it would have to pass through the intercooler and those passages are extremely small. It would be very hard for the turbo parts to make it inside the engine from the exhaust side as the exhaust gasses are forcing out with great pressure anything between the head and turbo.
Usually if a turbo blows up bad enough that it pukes out oil it will drain the engine of oil in a matter or seconds through the exhaust. That is how most engine failures happen when a turbo breaks.

If you ever have a turbo come apart on the compressor side you must replace the intercooler as it is nearly impossible to remove the fragments that are stuck inside the tiny passages of the intercooler.


As for fuel lines on the Juke being damaged by the turbo that is also physically impossible too as the turbo and fuel lines are on opposite side of the engine bay.

 

[edconline]

Hmm. Had this code today, after a couple tune revisions last night. Coincidence? I don't know. seemed to drive fine back home after the code, all fluid levels are normal, hoses are all good, idles fine, normal vacuum.

That said, the exhaust does smell kinda 'oily' and some black specks on the garage mat behind the exhaust, not sure from what or when, just didn't notice them before.

Now wondering if I should drive it after clearing the code or take it in for them to inspect things.