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CVT slipping or torque converter issue?

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35K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  KinKin  
#1 ·
Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone else may have had the sane issue.

I have a 2014 juke with an automatic cvt transmission. It's started to shudder badly from 1st and second gear.

Another symptom is a loud squel type sound if pulling off while on a hill or slight incline.


It doesn't sound like the drive belt but more under the car.

I've used a home error code reader but no codes logged.

Is this the start of the cvt going?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Clunking noise could be many things. Mine clunked going from park to drive. This ended up being a worn out forward clutch drum spline that eventually cracked and disabled the entire transmission. At the time I didn't know this because I also had clutch pack and CVT belt slippage issues. Well, 10k miles later the transmission completely failed leaving me stranded.

Forward clutches slipping will cause the slippage your are describing of course, so will a worn CVT belt. Typically if you don't slip or shudder in reverse, then it's the forward clutches. The torque converter IMHO is doubtful, it's torque limit is much higher than the rest of the transmission.

Given your explanations I can't see the transmission lasting much longer. In almost every case that an owner reported strange CVT behavior (rpm surge, slippage, clunking, etc.), ultimately their transmissions failed catastrophically shortly afterwards. Probably not what you wanted to hear. At this point if you would look inside the transmission almost everything would be worn out or damaged to the point of not being worth repairing.

I would take it to a dealership to investigate further but certainly not drive it anywhere if possible beyond that. Consider if the vehicle is worth repairing because it will typically run between $4000-$4500 to replace with a brand new transmission fully installed.

I'd see about getting it covered under warranty if you're within the 60k mileage limit.
 
#4 ·
How does it shudder from First to Second ?
 
#5 ·
Thanks pboglio, I've got it booked in at a nisssn dealer on Thursday for inspection and a possible warranty since it's only got 37,000 miles on the clock. Unfortunately my workplace is 30 miles away and I'm forced to drive it. It seems easier if I use the S button on the gearbox (s icon comes up next to drive) well at least until Thursday.
 
#6 ·
Hi Macgyver, it only seems to be when pulling of from first gear or coming down from second to first.


I can only describe the shudder as when you drive a manual and keep the clutch pedal up when coming to a stop.


When it does it, you have no response from the accelerator until it pulls itself out of it.


It's a strong shudder and can be felt through the car.
 
#7 ·
I am confused now.

Clutch pedal ? CVT ?
 
#10 ·
Well the more we learn about the Juke CVT. Fluid Fluid Fluid. Juke CVTs are fairly durable but do not like heat. Dirty fluid. A combination of the both.

As far as the vibration issue. What are your RPMS at ?

It never hurts to change the fluid. Even at 37k. This might not be the issue. Let us know what the dealer says.
 
#11 ·
Hi all, well interesting response from a Nissan dealer today. My initial thoughts was that they would drive it and confirm my suspicions.


Well I was wrong, they did a basic diagnostics test and found no codes. They will need to have the car at the end of March to do a full inspection.


For now I'll have to keep carefully driving it.


My rpm when it usually does it is around 2000-3000.


I have to agree with pboglio that it might be the forward clutch slipping and that could be the squel I'm hearing.


Fingers crossed this can be sorted as a warranty claim.
 
#12 ·
Well that would be ideal !!!
 
#13 ·
My understanding is that they cannot warranty the transmission without it throwing codes first, so give it some time. The CVT belt slippage is very easy to detect on the CONSULT, same goes for the forward clutches/torque converter. If you had the CVTz50 software and a bluetooth OBDII transmitter/receiver I could review the logs and tell you what's likely going on.
 
#15 ·
Download CVTz50 and get a OBDII bluetooth (i.e. OBDLink MX Bluetooth, OBDLink® - OBD-II Diagnostic Scan Tools for Android, iOS, & Windows | OBDLink® | OBD Solutions).

The bluetooth works pretty good. I'd set the CVTz50 to log just CVT data and not the engine data. It'll also detect CVT codes. The log file gets dumped into a .txt file on your phone.
If there is any slippage in the transmission, this will clearly show it. Order it up and if you have questions on setting it up just send me a pm and I'll walk you thru it.


 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just send them to my email at:
pboglio1 [at] yahoo [dot] com
 
#18 · (Edited)
Justin,

The good news, at WOT or full power you are not slipping the transmission. Pulley pressures look good and clutch pressure looks good. The "slip revs" are in single digit values, which means the torque converter, forward clutches, pulley belts are not slipping. However, at about time stamp 7:31:41 you have some weird slippage at very light throttle. It's this transition from zero throttle to light throttle where you seem to be having problems.

Now what is pretty interesting is that the computer is not getting the correct "gear ratio" it's looking for, it's showing a "?" next to the commanded gear ratio and actual gear ratios. These should match almost identically. Say it's looking for 1.68 ratio, but it measures 1.85 ratio. They never match regardless of what ratio it is. This is not normal. It might explain why the car slips at light throttle. Your gear ratios are consistently 1.125 - 1.1875 times off, or 12.5% - 18.75% shorter gear ratio than the computer is commanding almost at all times.

I've only ever had this problem when I screwed up installing the valvebody and mis-positioned the gear ratio lever, I was consistently 1/2 gear off on the ratios. Not saying this is your problem, but the valvebody controls this via a mechanical linkage, piston, and solenoid on the valvebody.

So to summarize: No slippage at WOT, some slippage at zero/light throttle, gear ratios not correct. I'd guess the CVT itself is good, but a speed sensor or gear ratio control is not working correctly. Why it hasn't thrown a code, not sure. But at worst you are looking at a valvebody swap and/or speed sensor replacements.......maybe. Not the end of the world. Valvebody is $750 brand new and about as hard as changing the engine oil filter, speed sensors are tucked in there pretty good but also doable.

Can you make some runs in "Manual" mode only? This will prove definitely if the gear ratios are off, because they will be locked in whatever gear the selector is in.
 
#19 ·
Hi Pboglio,

Thanks for checking this out, it looked like just a bunch of numbers to me :)

Are you referring to the Gear_Ratio and DGear_Ratio values being different? Excel displays some strange characters next to the values in those two columns.

For the manual mode, I don't think it has this mode on mine.

I can only use the "L" gear or by pushing the sports mode button on the side of the gear leaver (I assume this is sports mode and not for shift lock?)


Kind regards
 
#21 ·
Yes, it’s Gear ratio. The columns look funny but that’s how it is. I compared against my logs in Drive mode and my ratios matchup correctly as they should. Send the manual mode logs when you can. Thanks.
 
#23 ·
Hmm.....wonder if you have a Gen2 Juke. What year is it?
 
#25 ·
Hi all sorry for the late reply, I've been so busy with work commitments.


I have further developments, Pbogilo was absolutely correct the gear ratio seems all over the place.


The screech type sound has turned into a scratching/rattle type sound.


It's difficult to pinpoint since a have a squek from my air con compressor already which I know about (I fitted a new drive belt but didn't cure it) so it's either the alternator or air compressor.


In summary pending the nissan diagnostics I have three separate issues in my opinion.


1. Gear ratio is out causing shudders since it's always not getting correct gear.


2. Aircon compressor or alternator baring squek.


3. Serious rattle/scratching type sound can be heard under the car. Doesn't sound like the exhaust heatsheld but something internally.


I'll upload the sound to see if anyone can recognise it.


Cheers