[AvianKnight]

Hi all,
I will say straight up there is no fault at all (that I have had) with Z1's BBK.....
Fits great and was easy to install according to my mechanic at least looks amazing too.
However....
Problems occur when installed onto a non-NISMO, the master cylinder and booster cant keep up and require several pumps to get any braking at all.
So now I am in the process of trying to hunt down a NISMO master and booster, we have tried 2 different part numbers that all showed a different part to my car and so far both have actually been the same part.
Does anyone A: Know if the LHD NISMO master/booster fit a RHD?
Or B: have some magical part numbers of a RHD NISMO master/booster that is ACTUALLY a NISMO master/booster and will allow my brakes to finally work?

 

[Swiftab]

The RS model comes with a bigger brake package so you probably want to use that version. It says there are different models for the Manual and CVT versions.

Compare your RHD versions to these LHD models and see if the same are used on each platform.

 

[FastReligion]

Having installed several of these BBK's on both nismo and base model Jukes: the oem master cyl is plenty big enough to run them. There is a special bleeding procedure for these calipers that MUST be followed. It can take 1-2 hours to bleed these brakes when done properly. You gravity bleed the whole system til fluid starts to come out the caliper furthest from the master. this is with ALL 8 bleed screws open. Then once you have fluid coming out close ALL 8 screws. Then have someone pump the brakes, go to the caliper furthest from the master to start, bleed the inside most screw first until you get no air. Then bleed the outside screw until you get no air. Go back to the inside screw and check there is no air again, careful not to open the bleed screw without pressure, if you do you may have to start over again. Repeat this for the other three calipers, working to the other rear, then the front furthest from the master, then finally the caliper closest to the master. Then repeat the whole process again.

Again, the oem master is plenty large enough for these calipers. It all comes down to bleeding them the right way.

A power bleeder with pressure for the master and vacuum for the caliper speeds this process up a LOT, but not everyone has those. DO NOT USE VACUUM BLEEDERS on these calipers. When vacuum bleeding the inside port, you can actually create a vacuum in the outside part of the caliper which may cause air bubbles to get trapped. Only use the vacuum system if you have the pressure system on the master reservoir.

 

[RevUp]

I can confirm the bleeding process is a pain and must be done correctly. Took me a few times to get it 100% with no bubbles.

I agree the master cylinder should be fine, you might have another issue going on.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

 

[AvianKnight]

hmm that could be good news then ill forward that to my mechanic and see if they have any luck, no engine in the car at the moment (Big turbo time!) but they should be able to do another bleed again.

Thanks everyone.

 

[SamusFarron]

Keep us updated I will be purchasing these kits in Spring I believe. So heads up my stock RS brakes will be available for sale here haha.

 

[SamusFarron]

Any update on this Avian? I'm really contemplating ordering this in a week or two. That and Nismo lowering springs are the last mods I intend to do before kicking back and just enjoying the car the rest the time I have it.