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Hey oh hey oh hey oh, brace yourself, I’m about to get longwinded again.

So technically this was supposed to be a lil tutorial follow-along-at-home on how to get rid of that pesky Nissan emblem on the back of your car. But at the same time, I was in the process of getting rid of my rear windshield wiper. For those of you playing along with my Juke escapades, one of the first things from day one that I wanted to do when I got this car was delete that silly wiper blade. And shave off the Juke & trim level emblems. But someone challenged my ego which made me take on the Nissan emblem delete much sooner than originally planned, but whatever, that’s not the point, the point is I’m going to teach you….

HOW TO DO A WIPER DELETE AND/OR A REAR NISSAN EMBLEM DELETE

Let’s start with what your car looks like right now sorta kinda give or take.



At this point, I’ve already pryed the rear wiper off and gotten all the emblems removed from the vehicle. Emblems are held on my double sided tape. Strong tape, yes, but adhesive nonetheless, and that can be easily conquered. One technique is to use dental floss or fishing line to ‘cut’ across the foam tape and get the emblem off in one piece. Cool if ya wanna keep it. I personally just take some pliers with a nice wide mouth and grip a piece of the emblem and twist to shear the foam tape right off. Do this CAREFULLY cuz you certainly don’t want the metal of the pliers to contact your perfect paint job. You’ll end up with a bunch of sticky nasty foamy garbage tape left. That’s where an eraser wheel is the coolest tool ever. What’s an eraser wheel? Why, it’s a wheel that erases stuff off your car. I bought mine from the Snap-On dude, but if you don’t want to overpay for bragging rights, I’m fairly sure NAPA sells them as well. Maybe even Autozone/Advance. They usually aren’t necessarily cheap, say like $25 or so, but they are $MONEY$ when it comes to removing pinstriping, old stickers, emblems, etc. Be careful though, these things are powerful and will burn through your clearcoat and paint fairly quickly. If you don’t wanna buy a rubbing wheel and take care of the left-over gunk in 30 seconds, you are welcome to sit there with Goo-Gone for 30 minutes and rub until you lose your fingertips. Doesn’t bother me any. So now that the adhesive is gone, you’re STILL going to have some stupid faint outline of the emblem. It’s always there, it’s a combination of gunk like wax, dirt, grim, adhesive, UV damage to the clear, whatever, but the emblem will definitely leave a ghost behind. So whip out that buffing compound and buffer and rub it on out. Uhhhh yea, feels good to get all nice and smooth and shiny, right? Cool, so now the emblems are gone. EXCEPT THAT STUPID CENTER NISSAN EMBLEM. Because they chose to mold the plastic to meet the shape of the emblem.


But before I get into that, let me digress for one moment to discuss this rear wiper. You can like your wiper and keep it. I hated mine, so I wanted it gone. Funny part was… it didn’t wanna leave the car. That thing was totally seized on there. I tried an actual hammer and a claw puller slide hammer to the point where I finally broke down and bought THIS uni-tasker tool:



Well, it works, and now I own it. So wiper blades will never be a challenge for me again. Not that they ever had been in the past. But this tool was necessary *for me* to remove my rear wiper.



Back to the main story. Open up your hatch, rip down that plastic cover, removing the wiper motor is as easy as unbolting 2 10mm bolts and unplugging a harness. Bam, it’s free, DONE, now you have a ~1.125” hole in your glass though. Oops, I didn’t plan this out well. Uh, duct tape it. I’ll figure this out later. Also, while you’re at it, remove that license plate overhang doohickey and remove 2 lil screws in there that go in the center (near the emblem), and then use a pry tool to get the cover piece off. It’s held on by essentially 4 strips of double sided tape. I certainly do love quality construction techniques. I imagine you should be relatively careful, you might break something, so be relatively careful…. You know, so you don’t break something.



So now we have this. These lame-o plastic cover. I hate plastic body work. Let’s get to work and get this over with.



Dremel you outta there.



A 2 part plastic epoxy to bond the two together. Okay, tangent time. Go to a professional body shop if you’re going to do this and say “hey, I need a 2 part semi-rigid plastic epoxy filler”. Emphasis on the word FILLER. See, by using it as a backing material like this, that’s technically safe and okay to just use a 2-part plastic epoxy (no word filler). But since I don’t want you to make the annoyingly time consuming mistakes that I make, I am suggesting get an epoxy filler. And this is not stuff that you’ll get at NAPA. This is the good ish. I like good ish. More on the reasoning later. My other note of interest is that this should have been done ON the car to get the proper flex of the panel. Not hugely critical, but it woulda been proper technique. Do as I say, not as I do? :distress:



This is the step you should NOT do. Presumably, if you use a filler, you’ll be okay. I did not. This is wrong. More on this later. But for now, take my word: don’t apply the plastic epoxy to the front.



So I sanded down the high spots just to make my life a bit easier for the next step. Again, that step was wrong, so you shouldn't have to do this.



Yay, it’s now officially on the car. Which means the flex of the panel is accounted for. This is a MUST for the body work, but it really should have been done for the structural elements of the plastic epoxy as well. No worries. Sidenote: the caliber of body filler that you utilize will determine how much you appreciate time. Good filler: less pinholes and easier to sand. Bondo (and whatever else Advance/AutoZone sells) will make you hate this process. I stress the importance of finding an auto-body supply shop if you are going to do any amount of auto-body work.



Sanded smoothly. I probably did 220 grit here.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited by Moderator)
((apparently I have reached a picture upload limit on a single post))



Primed. Here’s some more fun information that you might not want to hear. Rattle can primer is good for some things, but not here. You need a good 2k primer. That means mixing and spraying from a paint gun. 2k primer acts as a barrier keeping all the bad chemicals of the plastic epoxy safe and protected from the bad chemical solvents of the paint and clear coat.



I probably used 320 grit here. Not gonna lie, I kinda don’t pay attention to the numbers anymore, I just know which grits feel right and will be covered by the next step. Every time I do a paint project, I guess and adjust as needed.



Re-primed because it was too uneven for my liking.



Boom, some OEM paint, again, from your local auto body shop, they’ll mix that jazz up for ya.



First coat of clear.



I do 3 solid coats of clear. It’s a bit warbly, but overall, pretty even.



Wetsand. I do the bulk of the work with 1000grit, but before it gets flat, switch over to 1500 to get it flat. Once it’s flat, I go over it all with 2000 for funsies. Makes the buffing process go over more quickly.



Buffed with rubbing compound and abrasive pad. Ooooh, pretty!



This is me just bragging. Honestly, it never stays looking this good so it’s fun to really admire how perfect you CAN get it.

So after the paintwork is done, get yourself some body panel molding tape, some adhesive promoter, buy replacement little clips to hold the panel in (2x were ~$6 from the dealership) since you should have put the thing on and off the car like 20 times by now and the ‘tree limbs’ of the clips are exhausted.




TADAAAAAAAAAA NICE AND SMOOTH!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
((oh snap, okay, this is definitely more picture-heavy than I originally intended))


Another completed pic out in the sun.

Now before I go onto the wiper delete, I want to explain myself here. I messed up on this project. I had to take this off, tear it all down, and re-do it. Which made me quite displeased. The plastic epoxy that I used (which was not a filler) combined with the fact that I had used a rattle can primer (which was not a barrier) allowed for the solvents from my paint&clear to seep through and attack the epoxy. A few days after I completed the paintwork, the panel bubbled up from underneath the paint. Very heartbreaking. I don’t do a lot of paintwork and I learned a lot on this project. Again: I stress the importance of finding yourself an auto body supply shop because the advice and product selection guidance that they can provide is PRICELESS.

Here’s how bad it looked.



Yup, bummer dude. To be 100% honest, when I re-did it, I ground away a lot of the epoxy from the front, built it up thick in body filler, then used the right 2k primer to seal it. And it still bubbled. Again. Not as bad, admittedly, but bad enough that I actually will revisit this project again in the future and fix it. Which is why I'm stressing the 'filler' epoxy because better safe than sorry. The stuff I used is crazy reactive so it was definitely not the right product choice.


So let’s shift gears and talk about this super easy rear wiper delete. I was faced with a problem: how do I plug this 1-1/8” hole in 1/8” glass in an effective watertight yet aesthetically pleasing fashion? I looked into gaskets and plugs and all sorts of different things and was generally displeased. So I took a hint from the Honda tuner guys who love rear wiper deletes and started reaching out across the interwebs. Eventually, I found a company in Greece (of all places, it’s a bit ironic since I’m in Tarpon Springs, which is like, Greek City, USA, and I am not Greek by any means) that worked with me in formulating a solution. I sent him measurements, he sent me options, I selected rounded over machined aluminum that was powdercoated gloss black. Then the waiting game. 3 weeks from order to arrival for international shipping. Yea, I went over a month with duct tape over that hole. Oops. Bad planning.

Check out this sexiness:



The rounded piece is chamfered and drops right into hole with the gasket and then is sealed by the knurled piece on the backside. Brilliant. So small, so slick, so perfect.



BOOM.
The company is Alloy+Carbon, he sells on eBay, and he is now listing this as a solution for the Nissan Juke. So you should be able to just look it up and select the option you want. I told him I was sad about not being the ONLY Juke with this solution… but at least my ego and pride can sleep knowing that I was the FIRST Juke ever with this solution. And that’s good enough for me.

Oh yea, and before I get the ‘blahblahblah, safety feature, I need my precious wiper blade’, oh, stop ya whining, I can barely see out the thing already with my window film, I have a backup camera, and, above all else: RAIN-X YOUR WINDOWS YO!

Rock on my fellow Jukesters; may you laugh at my silly mods and embrace your own respective silly mods with zest and passion.

Much love, -13
 

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Great write up!
I personally can't see the car without the wipers as I do way too much motorway miles but I do admire the level of detail in your work.
From what I've learned in the past, rattle can spraying can be difficult as balls but a paramount factor is time and you just have to give it as much time as it really needs so stuff like bubbling or uneven coverage don't affect you at the end...

Well done buddy!
 

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Wow, good stuff, I like the occasional use of my rear wiper..but then again it does also look nice and clean without it. Thanks for the write up and pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great write up!
I personally can't see the car without the wipers as I do way too much motorway miles but I do admire the level of detail in your work.
From what I've learned in the past, rattle can spraying can be difficult as balls but a paramount factor is time and you just have to give it as much time as it really needs so stuff like bubbling or uneven coverage don't affect you at the end...

Well done buddy!
Thanks man, appreciate it. Rattle can is fine for a lot of applications, especially interior pieces. The problem lies in the fact that the primer (and the clear coats, for that matter) are single stage (might not be the appropriate term, I've also heard it called '1k', but I don't know to be honest), meaning that they are premixed and just cure with the solvents evaporating into the atmosphere. As compared to 2k primer and any clear coat that's sprayed, there is a hardener added to the material. This causes an actual chemical reaction that CURES the primer and clear. So it's a totally different ballgame on a chemical level that offers way way way superior results. For primer, the barrier aspect. For clear coat, additional strength and hardness and UV protection. Truthfully, I rock some rattle cans time to time. Just gotta be careful and make sure it's the appropriate time and won't bite ya... like how this project it certainly got me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You should really go for it and delete the fronts as well :glee:
Homie... in time... trust me... the goal is to make this vehicle completely unidentifiable as a Nissan. :witless:
 

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Homie... in time... trust me... the goal is to make this vehicle completely unidentifiable as a Nissan. :witless:
why, what is wrong with Nissan
 

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Isn't there a Grill for sale from a member that gets rid of the Nissan Logo? May save time. If it hasn't been bought up by someone already.

The ESQ Grill!
 

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lol, nothing is wrong with Nissan, I'm quite the aficionado of the brand actually. I've owned a Maxima, Altima, i30, and now my Juke. But my plans for this vehicle are to shamelessly promote myself, my abilities and skillsets, and my brand. So, as a result, there will be no other logos of anything anywhere. Plus I like it when people have to confusedly ask "what kind of car is that?"

Negative on the ESQ grill. I like it, I have the picture saved for inspiration, but this car is to be BUILT, not bought. It will be a long process, for sure, and the to-do list is a bit overwhelming. But the pyramids were built one brick at a time. :distant:
 

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The company is Alloy+Carbon, he sells on eBay, and he is now listing this as a solution for the Nissan Juke. So you should be able to just look it up and select the option you want. I told him I was sad about not being the ONLY Juke with this solution… but at least my ego and pride can sleep knowing that I was the FIRST Juke ever with this solution. And that’s good enough for me.
Hey I cant find that company on ebay with the wiper hole cover solution. Do you have a link from when you purchased it or contact info from them still?
 

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Hey I cant find that company on ebay with the wiper hole cover solution. Do you have a link from when you purchased it or contact info from them still?
lol, nah bruh, sorry. that was like... the Jurassic era ago. it wasn't like we were buds or anything, I just knew I needed a product and went out and found someone who could do what I needed at a reasonable price. If he isn't around, you'll hafta do the legwork I did initially.
 

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Epic link :D

P.s. how do people deal with the road salt/dirt build up when they don't have a wiper? You just clean it when you get out, or does rain-x somehow keep that away as well?
 

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ayyyyyyyy REVUP TO THE RESCUEEEEEEE
(I better see you on the 4th for a solid high five!)

Scougar.... lol your question made me chuckle ... like... idk... I don't have these problems. I don't ever look through my rear glass anyways. It's tinted. I have a night vision backup camera. And there's no salt on the roads in FL. I guess there's a valid reason to keep a wiper blade somewhere but I have never once since I did this mod thought to myself "man I wish I had a rear wiper blade". Not. Once.
 

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I thought the same thing when I bought my 2015 SHO> The glass is not slanted too much but you can still see w/o any wiper.
 

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My Ford Focus get very bad road salt on it, which is why I was asking. Every time I am at the service station I clean the rear glass before long driving days. This is why I asked the question... I wasn't being facetious I swear! lol.

My backup camera also gets gunked up as well :(
 

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UGH! All I want IN LIFE is to delete that rear emblem! I cannot do that work =[. Im tryny find someone to 3D print a blank dome thingy i can just swap out.
 

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Turbowalrus here in the forums can 3D print you one.

I agree about the back up camera. They get gunked up bad.
 
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