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I'm looking to get my car wrapped in the next month or two and I wanted to get other peoples opinions about it. My number one choice is the Skyline GTR Midnight Purple III to keep it in the Nissan colour family however i'm not entirely sure it's possible with a wrap. The local body shop said paint would be close to 20K so that's out of the question lol. My second choice was a sort of darker World Rally Blue with some metallic in it.
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2014 Nissan Juke Nismo RS 6MT
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I'm looking to get my car wrapped in the next month or two and I wanted to get other peoples opinions about it. My number one choice is the Skyline GTR Midnight Purple III to keep it in the Nissan colour family however i'm not entirely sure it's possible with a wrap. The local body shop said paint would be close to 20K so that's out of the question lol. My second choice was a sort of darker World Rally Blue with some metallic in it.
View attachment 190075 View attachment 190076
Man. That blue would look great on it. I'd go for it if I were you :)
 

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Orange copper metallic from 350z or sentra spec v
 

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If you have access to an air compressor, a garage, and feel comfortable with some panel removal;
You can paint your car.
The local body shop quoted 20k. 1k materials, maybe 2k for higher quality at an upcharge.
Time and profit margin is the majority factor of that quote.

You don't need a SATA Jet to shoot a quality job.
Harbor freight 1.4 nozzle HVLP $20 each x4
HVLP 2.0 nozzle for primer if you sand it down, but really, if you have a gentle hand, you can keep the factory primer.
Mask and seal. Don't skimp on the tape. Brown paper is fine. Plastic is better.
Sand off factory paint.
Orbital sander with velcro. 6" disc.
220
400
1000
1200 wet sand
Blow out all dust from painting area.
Buy a gallon of wax grease remover. Terry cloth entire surface area with it. It evaporates quickly.
Wet the floor of your garage with water to trap dust.

Shoot your metallic blue base over lap 1/2 each line.
Usually 3 parts paint and 1 part hardener. You can add a splash of reducer to thin out the paint.
Mix consistently. 3 quarts should cover the Juke.
So you will need at least one qt of curing agent.
Let it bond, don't rush; even quick hardeners.
Next day;
*Gently wet sand with a 2000 grit soft disc by hand, a little dish soap helps.
If you want to maintain your paint jets, run reducer through it. Disassemble and clean with reducer / paint thinner.
If the blue base isn't vivid enough for you
Repeat cleaning with wax grease remover.
Wet floor and shoot second coat, don't shoot thick, easy with it. 1/2 overlaps. Let it cure.
*Gently wet sand with 3000 grit soft disc by hand.
Repeat cleaning.
Mix your pearl or candy coat. Shoot it with slightly more distance to avoid running. Move your arm like a robot, not with limp wrists on TV.
Let it cure.
GENTLY wet sand with a 4000 grit soft disc by hand.
Wax grease remover after cured.
Mix your clear. The clear is a temptress. You will want to lay it on as you see your car shining 🌟
RESIST THE URGE! multiple thin coats of clear are 100x better than going in thick. It is a different animal than the others, it wants to sap like honey.
Shoot a thin coat of clear, clean your gun and let it cure. I would advise a longer cure time.
Each layer of cured clear earns a 4k wet sand and cleaning degreasing.
Your paint will become deeper and richer.
Aim for three or four coats of clear.

You don't need to cut it, just polish and wax.
Congratulations.

You have conceptually painted your car.

$900-2500 in materials and it's your's.
 

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If you have access to an air compressor, a garage, and feel comfortable with some panel removal;
You can paint your car.
The local body shop quoted 20k. 1k materials, maybe 2k for higher quality at an upcharge.
Time and profit margin is the majority factor of that quote.

You don't need a SATA Jet to shoot a quality job.
Harbor freight 1.4 nozzle HVLP $20 each x4
HVLP 2.0 nozzle for primer if you sand it down, but really, if you have a gentle hand, you can keep the factory primer.
Mask and seal. Don't skimp on the tape. Brown paper is fine. Plastic is better.
Sand off factory paint.
Orbital sander with velcro. 6" disc.
220
400
1000
1200 wet sand
Blow out all dust from painting area.
Buy a gallon of wax grease remover. Terry cloth entire surface area with it. It evaporates quickly.
Wet the floor of your garage with water to trap dust.

Shoot your metallic blue base over lap 1/2 each line.
Usually 3 parts paint and 1 part hardener. You can add a splash of reducer to thin out the paint.
Mix consistently. 3 quarts should cover the Juke.
So you will need at least one qt of curing agent.
Let it bond, don't rush; even quick hardeners.
Next day;
*Gently wet sand with a 2000 grit soft disc by hand, a little dish soap helps.
If you want to maintain your paint jets, run reducer through it. Disassemble and clean with reducer / paint thinner.
If the blue base isn't vivid enough for you
Repeat cleaning with wax grease remover.
Wet floor and shoot second coat, don't shoot thick, easy with it. 1/2 overlaps. Let it cure.
*Gently wet sand with 3000 grit soft disc by hand.
Repeat cleaning.
Mix your pearl or candy coat. Shoot it with slightly more distance to avoid running. Move your arm like a robot, not with limp wrists on TV.
Let it cure.
GENTLY wet sand with a 4000 grit soft disc by hand.
Wax grease remover after cured.
Mix your clear. The clear is a temptress. You will want to lay it on as you see your car shining 🌟
RESIST THE URGE! multiple thin coats of clear are 100x better than going in thick. It is a different animal than the others, it wants to sap like honey.
Shoot a thin coat of clear, clean your gun and let it cure. I would advise a longer cure time.
Each layer of cured clear earns a 4k wet sand and cleaning degreasing.
Your paint will become deeper and richer.
Aim for three or four coats of clear.

You don't need to cut it, just polish and wax.
Congratulations.

You have conceptually painted your car.

$900-2500 in materials and it's your's.
You're right but that is not something a novice should approach. Until you've done a lot of minor garage paint repair I wouldn't recommend doing the whole thing. There is a lot of skill and experience involved in all of the steps in regards to how much pressure to apply, how long to go, how to blend and curtail, etc. Not to mention dust control can be an issue, and you have HOURS of prep work at each stage.

I'd say a novice attempting a garage paint job is going to make a mess and have a trainwreck on their hands. That isn't a jab at OP, that would apply to anyone. I have done a lot of paint touch-up and I still wouldn't do a full garage job, not even close. It's an art as much as anything and most guys that do that practiced on junkers for fun to git gud as they say.

I'd get the wrap. It's reversible, protects the car, and applied well is just as good as paint visually for 3-4 years.
 

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I agree.
The wrap shouldn't be too much of a hit on your wallet.
Indeed; painting is an art. It is also very rewarding when the effort, time, money are realized with confidence in one's ability & the intimacy bonded between the painter (novice to pro) & painted (clunker to high-end).
I learned by apprenticeship from a body shop owner.
Super old Korean man in Central Texas. He definitely was the 'push you in the water' type.
I would encourage anyone with the desire to paint their own rig, to do so. Fenders and hoods are a great way to learn.
Mixing ratios are very important, yes.
As are in line water separators, which for the enthusiast/garage painter are very inexpensive.

"If you want to fly Eagle, don't hang with chicken's."
 

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I agree.
The wrap shouldn't be too much of a hit on your wallet.
Indeed; painting is an art. It is also very rewarding when the effort, time, money are realized with confidence in one's ability & the intimacy bonded between the painter (novice to pro) & painted (clunker to high-end).
I learned by apprenticeship from a body shop owner.
Super old Korean man in Central Texas. He definitely was the 'push you in the water' type.
I would encourage anyone with the desire to paint their own rig, to do so. Fenders and hoods are a great way to learn.
Mixing ratios are very important, yes.
As are in line water separators, which for the enthusiast/garage painter are very inexpensive.

"If you want to fly Eagle, don't hang with chicken's."
My brother in law is a painter at a body shop. It's crazy how at scale they can do things that should take a long time so quickly. If I prepped a car for paint I'd be taking half the day but they take like 30min.

They have a lot of advantages though, especially in equipment. It's a bit easier when you have all the specialized materials.
 
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