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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I just bought a 2014 Nismo RS fwd with only 43000km on it. The car puts a huge smile on my face. I would like to hear the turbo a bit more though. Does anyone have experience with the GFB blow off valve that 2J sells? Also is the rear sway bar worth it on a Nismo RS?
Thanks!
 

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Is your primary goal just wanting to hear the turbo more? If so, then get a short ram air intake.

I have the K&N on my car and it sounds awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/69-7079TS-Performance-Intake-Kit/dp/B00KSZ7J7O

Another option is the Injen intake which is cheaper. Performance gains are negligible unless you tune.

https://www.amazon.com/Injen-Technology-SP1902BLK-Intake-System/dp/B0086X18SQ

Also, if you're not sure its been done yet, I would spray your MAF with some MAF cleaner while you're changing the stock airbox out, since you'll have to unscrew it anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Ma...F8&qid=1507354396&sr=1-2&keywords=maf+cleaner
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the K&N on my car and it sounds awesome.
I'm new to modding but what I've read is that with an SRI you lose a bit of low end power but gain a bit of high end power. I don't really care about performance gains for the moment and just want the car to sound slightly more alive. Do you notice any differences in drive quality with your SRI?
 

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Like others have recommended, get the air intake. I have a CAI as opposed to SRI. Pair that with a lightweight pulley and you get a fun little engine. If there is a shift in the power band, it's not very noticeable. I think it's on the order of single digit torque which is only noticeable on a dyno. The lightweight pulley will help gain that low end torque back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a CAI as opposed to SRI. Pair that with a lightweight pulley and you get a fun little engine.
I think the 2J pulleys will be one of my first mods. Have you found them to help idling at all? My Juke bounces around 500-700 rpm at idle. According to the UK forums, that's normal for the RS 6speed mt.
Why did you decide to go CAI instead of SRI?
 

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Vf48 turbo. Best mod ever for cvt jukes. Just saying xP





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Maybe I will be able to drive it.......Hint Hint
 

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I think the 2J pulleys will be one of my first mods. Have you found them to help idling at all? My Juke bounces around 500-700 rpm at idle. According to the UK forums, that's normal for the RS 6speed mt.
Why did you decide to go CAI instead of SRI?
That's a normal range for idle. Mine bounces a little but not really a concern or noticeable. The pulley will only allow the engine to accelerate faster/sooner due to less rotational mass on the crankshaft. I've always had a CAI on my cars and without a hydro shield. It allows the intake to get relatively cooler air from outside rather than inside the hot engine bay like a SRI. There's more pipe so the resonance and sound of the turbo and divert valve is different than an SRI. There's also a very small HP gain over a SRI (and I mean like 1-2HP and not noticeable other than on a dyno). As long as you aren't driving through puddles and lakes on the road and submerging the intake filter, you don't have to worry about sucking water into the engine through a CAI. I've driven through huge thunderstorms and never had an issue in any car.
 

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Manual Transmission really dont see a benefit from the 2J pulley.
 

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The manual Trans is already efficient and does not really get hindered by some "extra" rotational weight.
 

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Hey guys,
I just bought a 2014 Nismo RS fwd with only 43000km on it. The car puts a huge smile on my face. I would like to hear the turbo a bit more though. Does anyone have experience with the GFB blow off valve that 2J sells? Also is the rear sway bar worth it on a Nismo RS?
Thanks!
Turbo smart makes a really good BOV, and an Ingen SRI is a good place too start.. But listen, Don't let anyone talk you into a bigger turbo.. The stock turbo makes more than enough Power to break the CVT.. In fact if you want your CVT to last, You are gonna want to stick with the stock turbo.. (Seriously).. You can make 260 wheel torque to 280whp wit the stock turbo depending on all the other bolt ons and the tuner.. And finally any more power than that and you are spinning the wheels all the way to 60/70 miles an hour.. I am at 247 whp and 252 Wheel Torque, and I'm able to break the wheels loose doing 30/40 miles an hour.. I have a friend who has a 350WHP front wheel drive MT Nismo, and he can't beat me in a race, because he spins his wheels the whole time.. These are not quarter mile cars at all.. Just an opinion..
 

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Turbo smart makes a really good BOV, and an Ingen SRI is a good place too start.. But listen, Don't let anyone talk you into a bigger turbo.. The stock turbo makes more than enough Power to break the CVT.. In fact if you want your CVT to last, You are gonna want to stick with the stock turbo.. (Seriously).. You can make 260 wheel torque to 280whp wit the stock turbo depending on all the other bolt ons and the tuner.. And finally any more power than that and you are spinning the wheels all the way to 60/70 miles an hour.. I am at 247 whp and 252 Wheel Torque, and I'm able to break the wheels loose doing 30/40 miles an hour.. I have a friend who has a 350WHP front wheel drive MT Nismo, and he can't beat me in a race, because he spins his wheels the whole time.. These are not quarter mile cars at all.. Just an opinion..
Low end torque is the killer for CVTs and the stock turbo is all low end torque. Ideally you would want the torque curve to come up gradually instead of spiking all at once.

On a side note, what turbo is your friend using on his 350HP Juke? How much PSI and does he have a more aggressive cam profile? Im doing a big turbo build myself and im curious to see what he is running.
 

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Low end torque is the killer for CVTs and the stock turbo is all low end torque. Ideally you would want the torque curve to come up gradually instead of spiking all at once.

On a side note, what turbo is your friend using on his 350HP Juke? How much PSI and does he have a more aggressive cam profile? Im doing a big turbo build myself and im curious to see what he is running.
I don't know all the parts he has but it's open exhaust, down pipe mid pipe and the nines.. He has a forged bottom end, and custom built manifold, and I forget the size of the Garret turbo he has, Plus he has GFB, and it's tuned by 2J.. There's so much more he has done, he went all out though.. He's even tried throwing huge slicks on the front and he's is still spinning his wheels everywhere.. And God forbid the road is a little wet or slick.. Not knocking it cause when he does get a good run in the car, It is fast as hell and from a 40/50 roll the car is nasty.. It just sucks that the AWD system can't handle more than 250/260 wheel torque.. And even at that power level you are breaking the CVT slowly..
 

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Low end torque is the killer for CVTs and the stock turbo is all low end torque. Ideally you would want the torque curve to come up gradually instead of spiking all at once.

On a side note, what turbo is your friend using on his 350HP Juke? How much PSI and does he have a more aggressive cam profile? Im doing a big turbo build myself and im curious to see what he is running.
Yeah its a Garret I think he's on like 23 PSI of Boost, but again it has a custom manifold Built bottom end along with a 2J front mount Inner cooler, He's got a 6 puck stage 4 clutch, He went all out.. And when he is honest with me, He totally regrets it.. He now wish's he would have just bought an STI or a Camaro 6.2L and called it a day.. From what He say's he has about 51K into the car total, it's a 2014 Nismo, and He has dumped at least 15K into it that I know of.. It's been DYNO tuned and street tuned several times. Don't get me wrong He loves his car, but he's just upset that he can't get the power to the street right...
 
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