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Been a while. Sup fellas.

On my seemingly never ending quest for better sound...I purchased a new Digital Sound Processor today. Got a bit bored with the entry level Dayton DSP 408. Wanted something more advanced.

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So the tally now is...(for the audio gear nerds)
Kenwood Excelon DDX9905s Head Unit
Audiofrog GS60 + GS10 (woofer and tweets)
Froggy GS62s for occasional (soon to be proper L-R) rear fill duty.
JL 10w3v3 Sub
JL XD600/6 on the highs
JL Slash 600/1 on the Sub.
 

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Been a while. Sup fellas.

On my seemingly never ending quest for better sound...I purchased a new Digital Sound Processor today. Got a bit bored with the entry level Dayton DSP 408. Wanted something more advanced.

View attachment 187455

So the tally now is...(for the audio gear nerds)
Kenwood Excelon DDX9905s Head Unit
Audiofrog GS60 + GS10 (woofer and tweets)
Froggy GS62s for occasional (soon to be proper L-R) rear fill duty.
JL 10w3v3 Sub
JL XD600/6 on the highs
JL Slash 600/1 on the Sub.
I always wanted to try Helixs DSP, from what I read about them when I was shopping is they are the new go to for a nice quality DSP. I'm just too much of an alpine fan boy for their source units to stray away. Lol

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Any current pics of the set up?
 

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Nothing that I haven't already posted before. Speakers are all in the factory locations. Amps and DSP are all hidden under the cargo floor. Sub is still the same cargo eater ported box. It's a stealth build outside of that sub. It's not what you see, it's what you hear.
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I was just fishing for "Upgrade" Picks.

I am sure your box out does my dual JL 10's. I dont have much air volume behind them.

I would love to hear a Juke with a DSP unit in her.
 

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I'll see about posting a pic once the Helix goes in, it won't be very exciting image though. I just hope I don't have to fabricate a new amp rack/board. The Helix is a bit larger. It's so tight back there. I'd still rather have some cargo space back. Wanna trade? I run the sub levels quite low actually. The speaker + enclosure + power going to them can still overpower the mids and highs. I'm more into sound quality, but capable of getting down and loud with a switch of a preset.
 

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I'll see about posting a pic once the Helix goes in, it won't be very exciting image though. I just hope I don't have to fabricate a new amp rack/board. The Helix is a bit larger. It's so tight back there. I'd still rather have some cargo space back. Wanna trade? I run the sub levels quite low actually. The speaker + enclosure + power going to them can still overpower the mids and highs. I'm more into sound quality, but capable of getting down and loud with a switch of a preset.
Atleast you Awd drive guys can get a nice clean install. With FWD if you want to get to your spare you either need to disconnect everything or have excessive lengths of wire.

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Yeah. My subs just slide out with extra wire so its not too bad.
 

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I also got a chance to (kinda) look at the engine mount on the transmission side, and I was able to ask some of the other techs what the best way to go about an engine cradle drop/ subframe lift, so I've got a better idea on how to tackle that.
I replaced my transmission mount and, honestly, I took a jack put a 2x4 in between the engine and jack and lifted the whole engine/transmission a little to take the weight off the bolt and mount. It was kinda tricky trying to get the bolt undone but with a little determination its doable.
 

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I replaced my transmission mount and, honestly, I took a jack put a 2x4 in between the engine and jack and lifted the whole engine/transmission a little to take the weight off the bolt and mount. It was kinda tricky trying to get the bolt undone but with a little determination its doable.
Is it just one bolt? I thought it was supposed to be like 3 or 4. Unless you are actually talking about the lower torque mount. I'm talking about the actual engine body mount on the transmission side, it's the only one I haven't gotten a good look at to figure out how to extend/drop it down.
 

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Is it just one bolt? I thought it was supposed to be like 3 or 4. Unless you are actually talking about the lower torque mount. I'm talking about the actual engine body mount on the transmission side, it's the only one I haven't gotten a good look at to figure out how to extend/drop it down.
I’m talking about the mount underneath the battery. It should be the only mount on the transmission side. I should specify that I have a FWD manual, I’m not sure which yours is. Now that you say that I think I do remember there being a total of 5 bolts. One on each corner and one big one in the center. I think the 4 smaller ones only hold the mount to the body of the car and the center one is the main one; the one that connects directly to the transmission. The four smaller ones were easier to get, the center one is the one that can be a pain. Getting the center bolt lined back up with the hole was tricky, but I would use my leg to move around the jack a little until it lined back up and the other four bolts should line back up as well. It took me maybe 45 mins. Mine were way over tightened so it may take a little elbow grease to get them undone. It can also be a little tricky trying to get some good leverage on those back two bolts, as there is not much space to get your ratchet in there.
 

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I should specify that I have a FWD manual, I’m not sure which yours is. Now that you say that I think I do remember there being a total of 5 bolts. One on each corner and one big one in the center. I think the 4 smaller ones only hold the mount to the body of the car and the center one is the main one; the one that connects directly to the transmission. The four smaller ones were easier to get, the center one is the one that can be a pain.
I have an AWD CVT, but that's good to know. The real pain is I need to take it out and measure all the mounts so I can design a bracket or spacer to do what I need. I'm afraid it might not be easy because of how it attaches from the body.
 

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I have made and fitted my own drivers (prototype) door armrest raised by about 3" it's been OK now for about a year. i like to sit as high as i can when driving, i live in a hot climate and my next project is to line the section of the tray next to the jack, with 1'' Styrofoam to use for frozen foods i will put everything with ice in a plastic bag to stop water leaking. ice boxes take up to much room and the foam ones squeak away on the 4 hr trip. hope to post photos when finished if anybody is interested.
 

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I have made and fitted my own drivers (prototype) door armrest raised by about 3" it's been OK now for about a year. i like to sit as high as i can when driving, i live in a hot climate and my next project is to line the section of the tray next to the jack, with 1'' Styrofoam to use for frozen foods i will put everything with ice in a plastic bag to stop water leaking. ice boxes take up to much room and the foam ones squeak away on the 4 hr trip. hope to post photos when finished if anybody is interested.
Pictures, we love pictures of your projects and where you drive.
 

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Black Friday netted me a Kenwood DRV-N520 Dash Cam. Beautiful interface with the Kenwood head unit. Just got done installing it. Think I'll go driving around looking at X-Mas lights tonight, then come home and watch the 1080 vid captures. (Blurry image from fingerprints on lens.)
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Also got the Helix DSP in. Didn't get a pic, as it's just a boring black box. But here's an RTA image of my tune so far. The target curve is a Half Whitledge, with a bit more low end. Still some minor tweaking to do, but it's coming along nicely. The clarity is amazing. Zero noise. Good times.

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You need a sitting at a red light tune and a moving along tune to counter road noise. ;)
 

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Is there any device that will act like a "OEM Speed Volume increase" cept using a tuning plot curve ?
 
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