Nissan Juke : Juke Forums banner

What have you done to your Juke today?

506373 Views 3821 Replies 247 Participants Last post by  Macgyver
Today I finally found an automatic touchless car wash where nothing touches your car and it gets blown dry at the end. I've been looking for one of these touchless car washes around my area forever! I use to go to them all the time when I was stationed down in Georgia.

I also filled up my windshield washer fluid for the first time. Nissan barely put any in mine! I was wondering why I ran out so fast. I was trying to figure out where to put the stupid cap. What a funny looking cap too! Has a tube attached to it. Also the washer fluid tube is TINY! Had to be so careful pouring the washer fluid in. The drive belt was right next to it!
1 - 20 of 3822 Posts
If you are wondering what is on the Battery posts and such. Its Fluid Film. Check it out on Amazon. Awesome stuff.
My company has carried this product for at least 10 years. I've had to do some testing and create in-house sales sheets for it. It really is a great product.

I suppose I will chime in on my daily Juke-ing...

This month is my last payment for my (then new) 2012 SL AWD, so I decided to reward it with an oil change (always full synthetic since change #1!), a CVT flush n' fill as well as a Terraclean carbon treatment. All completed at the stealership.

I'm only putting about 3-4k miles/year on my Juke nowadays, so I'm at 44,500 miles. I went a full year without an oil change, because I really only drive once, *maybe* twice per week. This makes it hard to convince 'the boss' that I need to get a tune ;)

The CVT fluid change made a HUGE difference in performance. I cannot stress this enough... HUUUUUGE. Factory recommendation is 60k and that's a load of BS. I started noticing decreased performance slightly before the 30k mark. If you are at 40k+, DO IT if you haven't already. HUUUUGE.

I made off like a bandit on the Terraclean service. If you aren't familiar, do a google search and check out some videos. It's similar to seafoam treatment for the intake/fuel/direct injection systems, except the terraclean *supposedly* contains compounds that survive combustion and make it down to the exhaust and cat to help clean them. Is that a valid claim? No clue, but after these 3 services at once, my Juke drives BETTER than new! Fuel economy is TBD, as I've only driven 2x since 8)

Oh, and they messed up the service coding for the Terraclean, and counted it as a throttle body clean... saved me about $120... and they gave me 5% off the invoice total!
See less See more
Not sure of the company history, but similar things have happened in other industries when company ownership changes hands. The example in my mind is when Hifonics was purchased by an overseas company and they went from a quality product to a mass produced piece of crap.
In other news, I'm at 4000 miles. Due to take it in quite soon for it's first Oil Change and service inspection. Likely when I get my late Dec X-Mas bonus. (bad $$ situations this time o' year).
You newer owners...Do you prefer to take it to the Dealer or some other trusted shop? (Talking to those who aren't DIY.) This is my first NEW car. My last car (Used 2008 Scion TC) went to a small shop right around corner for services. Though, the Dealer isn't much further at all. I'm inclined to just keep all services done at the dealer for the Juke.
Get full synthetic on the first oil change and stick with it! Personally, I always go to a dealer for oil changes and maintenance service. Full synthetic oil changes have always been cheaper for me at the dealers for some reason (usually less than $50).

Beyond that stuff. I had originally planned to get new/better all season tires (eyeballed BF Goodrich Comp-2 A/S) for this winter. But I think I'll put that off another year. As mentioned, the car only has 4k Mi on the factories. They should be OK enough to get me thru one more year at least. The Juke with factory tires & AWD should still be an improvement over the Scion's FWD + low profile Conti-Extemes. We'll see. Full on winter swaps aren't really an option at this point, and Ohio onl y has a handful of really bad days.
I have the BFG Comp2 A/S and I love them. I only have a few bad days a year in NC as well, but they have been great all around.
Got a duralast 35-agm battery at Autozone today. It was an inch+ shorter than the OEM battery and the dude needed to put about 4 washers under the nuts on each side of the battery hold-down to get it tight. I've heard of others putting a block/shim under other aftermarket batteries and now I see why.
Replaced the OEM RF 8" sub with the Kicker 43CWRT81 1ohm DVC (purchased the OEM enclosure with OEM amp and Kicker sub already installed from NomNomJuke).

Removed center trim panel in the trunk + peeled back half the panel over the sub + 3 bolts. Took as much time to remove the cargo mats and put the seats down as it took to install the enclosure.
I remember having a sunvisor cd holder with 15 CD's of burnt MP3s in it. I had easy access to over a thousand songs just over my head. It was a world changing improvement over the 60 songs I had in my 5 disc changer in the trunk, which was an amazing improvement over the the 3 nylon tape cases I had to fiddle with to pick between 72 tapes and then fast forward/rewind to get to the desired song, in lo-fi. But at least it had auto song sensing so it would stop the FF or RW automatically between songs. I could also hit FF & RW at the same time to flip the tape head, rather than having to eject the tape like the years prior.

But yeah, I guess streaming any song you want over the internet, using no cables and voice commands isn't that much better ;)
For the record, I exclusively use a USB stick for my music. No radio, no sirius, no streaming.

Vehicle on -> Cycle to Random All - > Commence Jamming.
My Jeep Cherokee does all that with the OEM infortainment unit. Including voice control, search, album cover images, picking artist and (I think) genre (based on the file id3 tags). Also has a time bar from 0 to End, where you can touch and slide or point to where you want to go in a track (just like any normal PC sound program like WMP).

The lags you experience aren't really a deficiency of the head unit as much as it is a limitation of the USB capabilities... they just cant read data fast enough. One solution (that the Jeep also implements) is to use SD storage instead of USB, giving you the option of purchasing higher class media (like a UHC class 10 card).

I have to admit that the Jeep system is the best mobile interface that I've seen so far. Even when I was shopping around for an aftermarket head for the Juke, I didn't find anything that looked like it was even close to the Jeep's functionality.

I'm pretty sure that the Jeep system is the same as in high end Dodge systems as well. It's the 4C or something.
See less See more
At a "pro shop", rarely is the guy that you talk to the same guy that actually does the work.

Also, bringing your own adapters, wires, RCAs, etc. is actually a BAD thing from the shop's standpoint because they lose out on the profit of selling you overpriced accessories that are required for the install as well as the profit from the bigger ticket items.

Most service industries will completely shy away from bring-your-own-equipment work. And those that do allow it will almost never warranty someone else's parts. The best way to get a chance at a decent job getting done is to buy their stuff and have them install it, at least then you have an avenue for recourse.
That listing is ended, product info no longer available 8(
I touched up my plasi-dip on the emblems yesterday. With a paint-by-numbers paintbrush.

I also aired the tires up on Monday.

Almost re-tuned and washed today, but then the rain came... so I guess I'll do those either tomorrow or Sat.
Re-tuned today: EcuTek STG1 OTS - WITH the new TCM update.

No immediate difference in a quick 30 min drive around town. Will report back at a later time if I start to notice major differences.
I only drive in sport mode... if you you mean manual shifting, meh. Seems unnecessary with the CVT.
You're gonna trade a bunch of car parts for.... t-shirts?! O.O
If shirts were currency, 13 would be flat broke.
D-block is 100% necessary, that taping thing is messed up.

But as far as the 4 gauge & 8 gauge, it's not really that big of a deal. When doing the maths, remember that your alternator only outputs so much current, and your amp only draws so much (also consider the RMS & peak usage) and without a capacitor there is a limit to how much power will run through those wires. Looks like the OEM alternator is rated at 110 amp output. I think you have said you have 2 JL XD amps @ 600w each, and they each have a 50A fuse, so you are thinking you need 100A fuse near the battery. As 13 said, the fuse is to protect the wire not the equipment, the equipment will protect itself. Consider that 50A on each piece * 14V = 700W. So those 50A fuses are only there to protect itself from problems, not to protect itself from heavy usage because heavy usage shouldn't trip those fuses. Automotive fuses are slo-blown, they can handle quick bursts of minimal/moderate overage without popping.

Personally, I would start with a 50A or 60A fuse at the battery and see if regular usage blows it. I doubt it will... but if it does, just step it up a bit. You always want to use the smallest fuse necessary for your application. Fuses are for emergency shorts like accidents and bad wire runs and bad tape jobs (lol). Fuses should shouldn't blow from daily usage with good equipment and wiring.

Also, you don't need a fused D-block unless you are going to install a huge capacitor near it. You only need fuses close to the source of power. Having a fuse on the D-block and also at the battery on the main line is redundant and not necessary. Unless you have a big cap that you need to protect right next to it, in which case you only need to fuse the cap, not the equipment. Caps themselves only hold a split second of juice, so regular 1-2 farad caps don't really need a fuse because they will probably discharge completely before the fuse blows. Sure there will be a light show and a small burn mark, but once discharged, it is no longer a source for power/danger.

Here's a nifty gauge chart that shows that 4 Gauge should be just fine for you. I would bet there isn't more that a 10-13 foot run of power, so 4 gauge is good up to 150A. 1/0 is overkill, save yourself the time and money and just get a solid D-block in. You can get a capacitor for the cost of rewiring to 1/0.

See less See more
If you have multiple fuses in a system, only one will blow, so think of it like this:

See less See more
I like the Knu stuff, looks like a good value and product. I've had a bunch in my amazon cart but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

I would suggest getting a capacitor with those XD600s. At full tilt, it's gonna wreak havoc on your system voltage. Alternator/regulator might end up getting hurt in the long run. It will also make a difference in sound quality. A cap is a cap is a cap. They all come from the same place unless you are really spending big $$$. So a $30 cap will function as well as a $100 one. In most cases, you are paying for a brand. Most of them come with extra crap, like voltage meters and fancy casings for mounting, etc. Since you are getting a D-block, it's ideal to install it now. Just mount it, pop the positive of the cap into the D-block, and ground the cap somewhere. Done.

As for as the main fuse size. I keep a variety of different valued ones. Since it's a standard fitment, it can't hurt to have backups and spares for future projects.
The water tank thing is basically the same thing as the saying that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. The same holds for redundant fuses... there is always a single weakest point (hopefully a fuse) between the power source and a short. That is the place that will blow/melt first. A fuse on a d-block will only add additional protection for the run of wire between the amp and the D-block. If that fuse was not there, the main fuse would blow anyway.

People have differing opinions on capacitors. Until a real world A/B test is seen, most will not have a change in opinion based on raw text discussion. I'm ok with that, but I urge those who don't support capacitors to experience that A/B test on a high power system if possible. It will change your mind when you see headlights stop dimming and dash lights stop popping up when bass hits.

Similar to the main fuse protecting the wire, not the equipment... a main capacitor is there to support the electrical system of the vehicle, not the capability of the equipment.
See less See more
Yeah, I didn't expect you to come back to the cap thing.

But since you did... :)

If your headlights are dimming it means the entire vehicle system's power is fluctuating. To treat only the one symptom for the headlights is rather ludicrous. The voltage regulator at the alternator is working overtime to try to manage the spikes in system power and that will lead to premature failure of the regulator at some point. A cap will help the regulator out by smoothing out the power demands a bit so the regulator doesn't have to work as hard. Other more discreet circuits (like the vehicle ECM, TCM, head unit, and anything else with a board) are also going to be sensitive to the change, and although they all have some capacitors onboard to to protect them, you have to realize that ALL of the capacitors of EVERY piece of equipment are all wired in parallel on the same circuit, just at different points. Those ECM, TCM, etc. caps are now supporting your audio amp just like an external cap would. So they have diminished ability to help with their own meager power draws because they are getting sapped by the audio amp.

Using a cap isn't about theory crafting, there is actual electrical math behind it. The reason that a good JL amp will need less external capacitor that a Boss amp is because the JL has more internal caps on the board. When you do the math to determine the need for capacitance, it works out to roughly 500w needs 1 Farad. So the JL 600W amps in our example need 1.2F-1.4F (when you consider amp efficiency, more of that later). You can tell just based on physical size, that when looking at the board of that JL amp, it does not have 1.2F of capacitors onboard. I actually tried to find the board specs of the caps on those amps, but no luck. I did find some images of other JL amps though. And they do not have 1.2F worth of capacitor bank onboard.

Finally, mathematically consider that this is all about energy in the system at any given time. Literally, the amount of electrons flowing around. If most A/B amps are 70-80% efficient. Most D amps are closer to 90%. This means that when the bass hits at say 40Hz and your amp is trying to supply 600W to the speaker, it actually has to pull 600W / .85 = ~706W from the electrical system. To do this at 14V will require 706/14 = 50.4A. If the system voltage has dropped to 12V, it requires 706/12 = 58.8A. Now, again without a cap, that means that a pair of these JL amps will be trying to pull almost 120A. The vehicle has 110A alternator output. So the other capacitors on other equipment are definitely getting tapped to supply this juice. Also, the car itself requires roughly 20-30A of power for its electrical system. So you are really only going to get a burst of about 80-90A. So that goes back to the amp, and mathematically reduces the actual power output at the speakers: 90A *.85 (amp efficiency) = 76.5A @ 12V = 918W. 918W is all that poor amp has the electrons to provide to the speaker. So without an additional cap, you just dropped the power of your system from 1200W to 918W. Maths. Also, that load has drained every capacitor onboard on every piece of equipment.

One last little bit is that the voltage regulator and alternator are not able to provide power on demand as quickly as a capacitor. Electrons move way faster that the voltage regulator's circuit computes demand and output. Capacitors have the electrons necessary to meet that demands.

To summarize, dimming headlights are a symptom of a greater system problem and should NOT be addressed independently. The entire electrical system of the vehicle needs to be addressed because there is a larger problem that will eventually manifest itself somewhere in the system. It's not just about the amp's output or heat. It's about a well designed and functioning electrical system as a whole.

Also, for reference, an older JL 1000/1:
(NOT 2.4F worth of caps)

And an older 500/1:
(NOT 1.2F worth of caps)

See less See more
1 - 20 of 3822 Posts