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V2 Juke Diverter Valve upgrade - Turbosmart Kompact EM BOV??

1911 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  FastReligion
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Anyone out there running a Turbosmart Kompact EM BOV on their V2 model Jukes?? If so what model number? I have been talking to a guy in tech support via email at Turbosmart and he believes they will have something that fits but unsure of which model unit would be best without testing.... I have a 2019 TI-S Juke 6spd manual. Thanks guys
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You can find what you need here:

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We custom make turbosmart valves fit the V2 engine you have. We are hesitant to try the electric ones they offer until they are 1-2 generations in. Electrical components like that can be touchy at first.
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So. To amend what i previously said; I spoke to my turbosmart guy today. These are technically on a 2nd generation, ad the internals of the EM series have been used on various other projects over the past 10 years. So. I just purchased a valve i am fairly certain will fit the v2 engine. It is not listed for it, but based off of my part number research, it should fit. If it ends up being the right size, we will get it put on a vehicle for testing. As it is not typically sold in the states, it is going to be 2-3 weeks before we get our hands on it. Then if its sized right, our v2 test car is in Florida, and it will take another week or two to get a few hundred miles put on it to verify it works. We will keep you in the loop.
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So. To amend what i previously said; I spoke to my turbosmart guy today. These are technically on a 2nd generation, ad the internals of the EM series have been used on various other projects over the past 10 years. So. I just purchased a valve i am fairly certain will fit the v2 engine. It is not listed for it, but based off of my part number research, it should fit. If it ends up being the right size, we will get it put on a vehicle for testing. As it is not typically sold in the states, it is going to be 2-3 weeks before we get our hands on it. Then if its sized right, our v2 test car is in Florida, and it will take another week or two to get a few hundred miles put on it to verify it works. We will keep you in the loop.
Mate that is AWESOME news, you guys are legends!!! Really appreciated the input from Fast Religion 馃槈 Out of curiosity, are you guys testing a plumb back or duel port model.... or perhaps one of each? Personally I was looking at purchasing a duel port to get the sound, but will be happy with what ever I can get that will work. Would love to see a video, if you guys are able to do one with it all? It would be great to share with the Juke FB pages where I have posted the same question. Would love to be able to share and promote the work you guys do!
It should also buy me enough time to line up in February to use the excuse with the Mrs, "It was a Birthday present for myself baby". 馃槀馃槀馃槀
In this particular application its only offered in a 50/50 application. We do not have access to a v2 car locally to us, but we will try to have the guy who tests our v2 parts shoot a video. The install process and sound results will be basically the same as the valve we offer now. The only difference being there will be no vacuum adapter to install. The electric valve will also cost more than the mechanical one, as the means we have to procure them will require some custom packaging and hardware.
What sucks is; in your case, I will have to get the parts shipped here from Australia, then ship them back to you once the modifications have been performed haha So the valve would have done a complete trip around the planet by the time you would get one.
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Okay, so, update on this. The valve I ordered is has the holes EVER SO SLIGHTLY off from the oem one. Now, with that said, the rest of the part measures all the same. So it will fit. I have no doubt about that. It will require modifying the holes and opening them up to make it work, and will require re-using the OEM bolts with the addition of washers.

The other issue is the connector is not the same. At all. The internal resistance matches the internal resistance used for the jumper pack on the mechanical valves, so electronically it will work fine. It will require tapping into the OEM wiring to hook it up. It would come pre-set-up for doing that. So similar to how with the mechanical one, you have to tap into the oem plug for the resistor pack, you will just do that using the wires off the valve. It would cost far far far too much for me to get custom connectors made up.

I will see about including a small section of black conduit cover to go over the oem connector so it still appears stock.

I will be modifying this valve today and sending it out to our test car for some test driving.

Turbosmart does a very good job of NOT showing the connectors in their images. So, IF they have one with the right connector, i would have to buy thousands of dollars in valves to find it. That is an expensive IF. As for the holes, the valve I got is the closest in images. I traced the holes in the images into my cad software and overlaid a 3d model of the oem valve onto them by changing the models angles until it was at the angle of the photos. So, IF they have one with the right flange, I would again have to order them all to find it. So I personally think this is the best match. Just sharing how I came to these results.
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The aluminum on the EM valves is twice the thickness of the normal kompacts. So. Even with the bolt being slightly off-set and the material removed, it will not have any issues with moving around. I got two of these valves, and the first on I cut half the holes out and bolted it down to a scrap piece of aluminum I had, and I yanked on it with everything I had and it didn't budge. Just in case anyone was wondering about the missing material.

Assuming this work, and does not have any issues during the 500 mile test drive, they will be sold for $279.99 and only available in a 50/50.

Here is the final product:
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The test valve was installed today. The customer had to use some hardware they had laying about, as they dropped two of the bolts down onto their subframe. So, the bolts you see on the valve are not what will be coming with it. It requires removing the harness support bracket to allow room for the wires. But it fits. The car was driven a bit today. But we will not have this for sale until we get at least a few hundred test miles on it. It is SIGNIFICANTLY louder than the mechanical ones.


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Mat (our V2 test driver) was able to do several hundred miles of driving the past few days to get these tested. The results:

They are now available!!!

FR Electric Diverter Valves!
鈥ropped two of the bolts into his subframe. I wonder if this resolves my two year long mystery of where the f- my 8mm socket went? I hear it when I hit bumps and it鈥檚 not hitting magnesium alloy or anything, it鈥檚 definitely a hard metallic clang but I reached up from under the car and felt around the subframe to no avail, so I can only surmise if went into that tiny little mail slot in the front of the subframe. G鈥檇 damn it! LOL

On another note鈥e wants!!! Did the driver report any smoothness in operation, or gains otherwise? Or just that it鈥檚 louder?
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Well, I鈥檇 like to say this was a definite improvement to acceleration and the fact that my OE diverter seemed louder? Must allude to the fact that it was possibly leaking.
Well, I鈥檇 like to say this was a definite improvement to acceleration and the fact that my OE diverter seemed louder? Must allude to the fact that it was possibly leaking.
odds are you where having an issue with yours prior. This is 100 times louder than stock...since stock is supposed to be silent.
odds are you where having an issue with yours prior. This is 100 times louder than stock...since stock is supposed to be silent.
Definitely louder! I was hitting another issue: once the Intercooler piping pressure was getting to a certain point I can only imagine it too was leaking. I made too many changes at once. I did the diverter and the Intercooler piping darn near the same time. When I went to test the diverter, initially, it felt much more responsive at lower 鈥渄riving to work鈥 speeds. Acceleration was more snappy, but if I did an engine load test and put the throttle anbout half way down or more while the CVT was doing it鈥檚 overdrive thing it sounded the same as stick lock. But once I gave it my very first hard punch, I blew the Intercooler pipe off of the throttle body lol. I took it back home, and gave things a good torque and now the diverter is not just hissing but doing a louder and fuller 鈥淧sshhhhh鈥 when I let off. I鈥檒l have sound clips incoming this weekend, if we don鈥檛 get pounded by snow in the Midwest here. It鈥檚 supposedly starting today. I like to do these things on a Sunday morning when nobody is on the interstate or all queued to get into the on-ramps. I have a cheap set of lavalier mics that I bought for the occasion. Just got to figure out how to use them lol. The diverter sounds neat at about 4500RPMs. If you can stay locked in on it it鈥檚 a neat jet fighter idling on the runway sound lol. A high frequency turbine sound. Sounds reminiscent of sitting in the last row of a smaller airliner, where the jets are positioned on the tail lol. The noise that eventually drives you mad an hour into the flight. I like it in a car though鈥
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Yea I do not recommend using aftermarket piping on the throttle side of the intercooler without having our beaded adapter on there. They blow off quite often and can cause boost leaks. Glad you live the valve!
Yea I do not recommend using aftermarket piping on the throttle side of the intercooler without having our beaded adapter on there. They blow off quite often and can cause boost leaks. Glad you live the valve!
will you ever ship these internationally? I just tried to grab one and it doesn't ship to me :(
As stated on the home page of the website, all international orders are processed manually. Please email us what you would like to order and your address.
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