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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks everyone for taking some time to inquire my catastrophe I know you guys will have the answers to help me out.

I am a DIYer with a little more than average knowledge and above average tool assortment to work with but just a basic scanner for OBD2 no pneumatic systems testers and no hydraulic systems testers and have access to all data….

I did an exhaust manifold and turbo charger replacement (used) with another turbo charger that had almost exactly the same mileage as my juke. It’s a me about five days taking Rose to and from an AutoZone where it died at to get the old one out and the new one in to be able to at least drive it to get it back to the house.

i’m going on two or three weeks now after the replacement and I am still getting a ton of codes:

0031,0037, 1217, 2263, 0101, 1148, and starting today a misfire (which I was totally expecting) 0300, and 0301…

I felt pretty confident that I did everything the right way with the exception of tearing the heat shield to shreds getting it out and getting to the back of the exhaust bolts putting in and out However I had an issue with the feed line for the oil it was leaking: and smoking like crazy the first few days I tried to run afterwards and intermittently these problems continue.
You cannot anymore visibly see anything leaking but I still smell exhaust coming into the cabin and even see lightly smoke but I don’t know how much of it is actually oil getting to the right place and burning up or dripping from somewhere and burning up.
And with all the sensor codes I don’t even know where to begin to start praying that some of these issues are just electrical mishaps or wire issues.
I suppose I’m looking for any direction as to where I should start the rehab process based on that information feel free to ask for more info. 👍🏽

thank you all again! 🤦🏽‍♂️😖
 

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First off we need what Juke you have. Year. CVT etc.

Secondly. Do you know if that turbo is working ? You are putting a lot of faith in a used part. The supporting parts. Ie Wastegate and diverter valve and boost solenoid are all suspect too.

You have a lot of codes. Recheck all your connections and vacuum lines.

The first two are O2 sensor related. Are they both connected ? One on your turbo housing the other on your exhaust on the bottom piping of the turbo underside of the Juke.

The 1217 is a temp sensor running hot. Do you have enough coolant in the system ?

02263 is a Turbo Charger system code. Are the vacuum lines hooked up properly where they are supposed to be ?

P0101 is MAF sensor. You Juke can run normally with this code. Not worried about it yet.

1148 is Closed Loop control. This is related to the Air Fuel sensor which is the MAF. Is this connected ?

The Misfires are 0300 where as 0301 is cylinder 1 misfire.

We need more info here and you need to recheck everything you unhooked for breakage. Bad connection. Etc.

Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First off we need what Juke you have. Year. CVT etc.

Secondly. Do you know if that turbo is working ? You are putting a lot of faith in a used part. The supporting parts. Ie Wastegate and diverter valve and boost solenoid are all suspect too.

You have a lot of codes. Recheck all your connections and vacuum lines.

The first two are O2 sensor related. Are they both connected ? One on your turbo housing the other on your exhaust on the bottom piping of the turbo underside of the Juke.

The 1217 is a temp sensor running hot. Do you have enough coolant in the system ?

02263 is a Turbo Charger system code. Are the vacuum lines hooked up properly where they are supposed to be ?

P0101 is MAF sensor. You Juke can run normally with this code. Not worried about it yet.

1148 is Closed Loop control. This is related to the Air Fuel sensor which is the MAF. Is this connected ?

The Misfires are 0300 where as 0301 is cylinder 1 misfire.

We need more info here and you need to recheck everything you unhooked for breakage. Bad connection. Etc.

Let us know.
You’re spot on so far, I have a version 1 early production 2011 SV CVT 10/10 production. I cannot say for certain that the turbo is 100% however from what I know I saw nothing to be of concern. How could I test at this point? Diverter had a cracked vacuum line, wastegate and boost solenoid have both been replaced as well the boost solenoid before the turbo because I was having an overboost issue that lead to the swap. At the moment I do not have the proper coolant because it was leaking from turbo line but tightened and replaced lines and seems to be good now but have to get antifreeze back in place of water. The misfire seems to be coming and going. I will get proper coolant in today and perform electrical diagnosis on af, maf, and o2 today to fill you in!
 

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Check your spark plugs, may be time to change anyway? Try swapping the coil pack and see if that moves the problem to the other cylinder. At least rule out that its these two components regarding the miss fire.

For your MAF I would clean it with MAF cleaner and see if that helps. I would buy a new MAP sensor, these things go bad over time. I replaced mine, Juke SL AWD 2012 w/ 90k, and it is running better.

Check to see if your diverter valve is working properly. Consider replacing it as it may be ready to fail or has failed. Check the forum for recommendations. I see a lot of happy turbosmart owners on this forum. I opted for the synapse engineering diverter valve. I would buy either one given the choice.

Make sure you do a the idle air relearn procedure AND the two procedures prerequisite to doing idle air relearn, if you have not done so already. Search idle air relearn and you will find a few threads on that and links to the shop manual if you do not have it already. Consider resetting the ECU completely after recording all the CEL codes. Make sure to do the Idle Air Relearn after you reset the ECU. A benefit of reseting the ECU is that you will find out what codes come up post work, and not have uncertain if they were triggered pre work or post work. I am assuming you have not done this already. Disregard if you have.

In regards to the burning oil, it may two things or a combination of the two. A) residual oil from the loose oil line. It takes time to burn stuff off. B) you still have oil leaking from somewhere. Or C) you have both.

The area of concern is also the hardest part to access on the car with the under hood cowl in place. I recall Fast Religion saying in several videos to remove that thing to make your life easier. If you have not do so, take that thing off until you resolve your issues. You can put it on later and there is not significant mechanical function to it.

Hope this helps.
Good luck with your project!
 
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