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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I have a‘14 RS 6MT that in Sport under hard acceleration pauses in rpm climb briefly, almost like a studder. Starts around 4K rpm.
Not clutch slippage, but almost like it hits a rev limiter for a split second then continues to climb, hits it again, then continues…

I thought maybe it was hitting peak boost and back off, then allowing to peak again, but I don’t get any CEL for over boost.
I don’t get the traction control dummy light like it’s holding back from tire slippage…

I installed a GFB DV which I don’t think is related…
Anybody ever had this issue? I figured if a boost sensor was failing, it would FAIL.?

not sure what it is…?
 

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Fuel issue perhaps?

Are you low on gas? Maybe the LP Fuel Pump is going out? I had those symptoms when mine went out....

I also had those symptoms when I ran out of gas and didn't notice
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SLCJUKE Thanks for the reply

Tank is full, minus about 30 miles since I filled it.

it’s smooth under full acceleration in Normal mode, but the studder happens in Sport mode when boost comes on much more harsh which is why I was leaning more towards a boost or boost control issue. But not sure of any tricks to diagnose those.
 

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Put the OEM diverter back on. Test it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, so put the stock DV back on and flogged it, Normal and Sport and no studder.
so that’s good news.
Question now is Why does the GFB unit cause this studder?
It’s adjusted pretty tight according to instruction…
 

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Did you reuse the o-ring from the oem DV? Many require that.

Alternately, could be seated badly, just a bad first install attempt?

Spring could be wimpier than needed for RS?
 

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Have not had many report backs on the GFB being wonky. Do they come with a internal spring pack ?
 

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GFB would be my top recommendation for anyone that asks, mainly because all accounts seem to far surpass the other options. Just curious if the extra boost in an RS is enough at the very high end to cause the symptoms here. I think it's just raw spring out of the box, but if all other options are exhausted, shimming with a washer or 2 might be worth a short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It came with only the spring installed and the o ring is permanently embedded into the flange, so it was non-removable.

I can see if I can open it on the bench and add a washer or 2 to stiffen it up.

And I bought the GFB one specifically because of the positive feedback on this site compared to others which is why I thought this whole thing was weird.
 

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Sport mode should have nothing to do with it. All it does is increase throttle response. So why the GFB is causing the release of boost pressure whereas the OEM is not does not make sense.

I wonder if your RS is tuned.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was thinking that myself. I have a boost gauge but it’s not installed yet, as I’m waiting on the mount I ordered for it.

I opened the GFB DV and put 4 nickels worth of spacers under the spring to get around the same open pressure the OEM DV has, so I’ll try it tomorrow and see how it does.

appreciate all the help so far
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So the nickels used as spacers helped a bit but the brief rpm pause is still there. It definitely feels like if leaks a bit and the engine compensates.
Interesting fact… even with the stack of nickels and the adjustment screw fully tight, the OEM DV still feels like it is hard to push open with my finger than the GFB unit when they were both on the bench together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I watched this video when I purchased it. At the tightest adjustment I still didn’t have any compressor surge in high gear. I emailed GFB in Australia to see what they think as 2J hasn’t answered me back yet.
 

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Obviously this was used when you bought it. She might have been sold with a tune on her.

For the time being. Just use the OEM.

This is a Recirculating DV right ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, 100% recirc.
GFB is telling me to check for kinks in the reference line from the solenoid to the DV.

I like the DV unit because it does build boost quicker between shifts noticeably, but I don’t want to risk damaging anything until I get a boost gauge on to know if it’s been tuned or not.
 
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