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Discussion Starter #1
What up guys. Posting here to see if anyone can tell me how catastrophically f***** I am.

Car stopped at intersection. Light turns green and i start driving maybe for 3 seconds. I get on the throttle maybe 40% and hit about 10PSI of boost and I hear a "pop" noise and my engine oil light comes on. Don't remember if it was flickering or not because of the panic. At the same intersection the light is on there is a 7/11 and I immediately pull into there and turn the car off. Check the oil and it's full (just changed the oil 100 miles ago). I change the oil religiously on this car every 3,000 miles. Car was not making any weird noises when I shut it off. The whole ordeal lasted maybe 10 seconds from when the car cut power and I turned it off.

I tried pulling codes but nothing was stored. I guess I turned the car off too quickly for any codes to be stored, and I dared not turn the car back on to see lol. Anyway right now my culprits are:

  • Oil Pump
  • Oil Sending Unit
  • Oil Pressure Sensor
Does the Juke have an engine safety feature that will cut power if it senses an issue with the oil? Please any insight would be great.

If something catastrophically is wrong with the engine then consider this the end of slcjuke and the part-out will begin.

Wish me luck and thank you
 

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I’m guessing timing chain or oil pump/sump related. As we’ve heard with other issues that resulted in the oil light it’s usually the last sign before damage is done and not always oil related. I’d say drop the oil pan and see if there’s anything more than just oil in there first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yikes, not good.....

Wouldn't I have heard anything strange idling? The car idled for a few seconds before I shut it off and it was idling fine and making no abnormal noises? I dunno I'm just trying to remain optimistic right now lol

Will have the car in my garage within the next 2 hours then I can look around.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have an update.

Got the car home and started it up again. Engine starts right up and idles fine but after about 10 seconds it idles very rough, BUT the car is making no noises that are strange. Does anyone have any idea of a car that starts fine but idles poorly? Is it possible my spark plugs are shot? I dunno I just need some help and direction....

Thanks
 

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Check the intake tract for leaks. Check around the MAF. Check the intercooler pipes. Check around the MAP. Check around the throttle body. If you can smoke test, that’d probably be easiest. I don’t think it’s plugs or coils. I had a severely worn plug and it started, idled, and drove fine until I attempted to build more than 3psi boost. Though you may have popped the ceramic. If it was a bad plug or coil you’d hear it almost immediately while starting in the exhaust and engine bay.
 

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Sounds like a boost leak for sure. Probably split a hose or one just popped off. I wouldnt worry about it. Just take a look around.
 

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Sounds like if its a POP and not a bang. You broke a Intake hose clamp, Intercooler clamp etc etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lol so you guys are gonna laugh at me....

The f** coupler on the hot pipe side of the intercooler popped off. I have NO idea why it set off an engine oil light. Just did a smoke test and it started blowing like mad out of it and then I realized. Holy s I feel like an absolute dumbass.

Just glad SLCJUKE still going....
 

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Woot !!!!!!!

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

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Better to feel like a dumbass and find and easy solution than to over react and shotgun tons of parts or scrap the project all together. Glad you found it.
 

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Woot! @slcjuke lives another day! Glad it was simple.
 

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Lol so you guys are gonna laugh at me....

The f** coupler on the hot pipe side of the intercooler popped off. I have NO idea why it set off an engine oil light. Just did a smoke test and it started blowing like mad out of it and then I realized. Holy s I feel like an absolute dumbass.

Just glad SLCJUKE still going....
Have you tried Amsoil CVT fluid yet ?
 

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Same **** happened to me on the freeway. It was dark out couldn’t see the coupler was off so I got it towed. When daylight hit the next day the biggest Face Palm of my life lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Same **** happened to me on the freeway. It was dark out couldn’t see the coupler was off so I got it towed. When daylight hit the next day the biggest Face Palm of my life lol
Lmao yeah. Well the thing was is it was ramping up in boost when it came off, and for some reason the car threw a blinking oil light which it has never done. I've had the cold pipe coupler that connects to the throttle body pop off multiple times and it makes the same "pop" noise. So really what happened is the oil light is the cause of all of this because that's what made me super worried cause I had never seen the oil light come on.

But yes, obviously very glad it was just the intercooler and nothing serious like a transmission.......

Knock on wood
 

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Had my hot side blow off at an autocross event the other day, it also bent the clamp leaving me boost-less.
186991

I've now made my own hardpipe using vibrant couplers, clamps, and a 45degree pipe i trimmed about 3" off of.
 

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Dang! Now that’s some force to bend a T-clamp. I’m surprised I haven’t popped any of my worm gear clamps or a T-clamp when pushing 20psi in spirited driving.
 

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You guys really need to do a boost leak test after swapping around intake components just to make sure something like this doesnt happen.

What I normally do is pop off my intake at the inlet of the turbo. Then I made a custom fitting/hose that goes on the turbo and has a fitting that I can hook up to my compressor. Then I regulate the compressor down to 35 psi and plug in the hose to the adapter I made. That way it will pressurize the entire system to 35 psi (I shoot for about 5 psi higher then your actual boost) and lets me check for leaks and to see if anything pops off. Since I have done that, I have not had one hose pop off and you would be surprised at how many little leaks you will find.
 

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Yep I’ve done the same things as you. I had a spare 2.5”-3” silicon coupler and combined that with a piece of PVC end cap and a couple T clamps. Drilled a hole in the PVC end cap where I attach my compressor supply. Allows me to roughly verify my boost gauge is working too. I know I have a small leak out of a corner of my stock intercooler but I haven’t found any other leaks. What I meant when I said I was surprised I haven’t popped a clamp is because the turbo spools so fast it builds pressure way faster than my little 3 gallon air compressor can. That boost spike could be enough force to pop a hose off. Steadily filling from a compressor isn’t a real life scenario.
 

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I have had many a $$$$$ T clamp fail but never a cheapie screw clamp. Go figure.
 
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