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Dear all,
i just realize this noise. don't know if any1 else has the same issue.

When i drive at 60 mph, let my foot off the gas paddle. A rumbling noise starts coming out when my Juke coasting down from 60 mph to 55 mph. it sounds like weeeee...wee....weeee...we.we.we.weee. weeeee. we.... Once slow down than 55mph.. the noise is gone completely. the noise is NOT loud at all.
however, if i put it into neutral and coasting down from 60mph to 55mph, the noise is not coming up.

please advise. tks...
 

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Sorry doesn't sound familiar, of course putting it in neutral and not hearing the sound leads me to believe it's from the trans.

Only the 3 little piggies go wee wee wee all the way home. ;)

Sorry I couldn't resist.

If you could record the sound and post an mp3 that might help.
 

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I have an SL/AWD CVT with 3000 miles and have not heard this kind of noise.
Something like that doesn't sound normal....hopefully you can replicate it at the dealer.

On the lighter side: Maybe there is a pig in the trunk....Sorry I couldn't resist as well.
 

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what mode were you in? in sport mode it might be 'between shift points' and letting it slow the car with the engine
 

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Noise after 55 mph

I have a clicking noise that comes from directly under the shifter. I get the clicking/ticking/crunching noise after 55 mph. I've tried different drive modes and it doesn't happen all the time but more often after the car warms up. My husband says the catalytic converter is located there. Anyone else notice this?
 

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The catalytic converter won't make noise. It's a tube with a honeycomb mess in it. THere are no moving parts. THere are only two instances when the converter could make noise.

1) During warm up and cool down. IT's metal and it gets hot. As it expands and contracts it can make noise. Usually noticible only during cool down when you exit the vehicle. IT won't make this noise once the metal is warmed and you are driving as it's already expanded from the heat.

2) THere are usually thin sheet metal heat shields attached to the converter These can sometimes come loose and rattle, not usually something you come across on a new car, but it can happen.
 

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Dear all,
i just realize this noise. don't know if any1 else has the same issue.

When i drive at 60 mph, let my foot off the gas paddle. A rumbling noise starts coming out when my Juke coasting down from 60 mph to 55 mph. it sounds like weeeee...wee....weeee...we.we.we.weee. weeeee. we.... Once slow down than 55mph.. the noise is gone completely. the noise is NOT loud at all.
however, if i put it into neutral and coasting down from 60mph to 55mph, the noise is not coming up.

please advise. tks...

In my daughter's car: Driving at 35 - 40 MPH, take foot off pedal and begin to decelerate, a 'whirring' or flying saucer sound begins and the pitch of the noise changes relative to the speed of the car. Even if I change AWD to Adaptive AWD to 2WD, the noise remains. Even if I change driving modes from Sport to Normal to Eco, the noise remains. If I drop it into Neutral, the noise softens a bit. We changed the CVT fluid immediately after purchasing (used). Had it been changed before the 75000 mark? We don't know.
 

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Its fairly easy to take a video of the noise(s). Upload to Youtube and post the link here.
 
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All the recent activitiy on this post AFTER 2011 should probably be merged over to the other, original thread.

You stated in that post that the noise softens a bit when in neutral, which is part of the equation of my suggestion. I'm going to stick with tire/wheel/bearing, but add cv axle to that. It is definately an external noise being exuded through the tire/drive area. The low frequency of the sound ensures it. If it was turbo or CVT it would sound much more high pitched, metal on metal, being exuded by the metal mechanical assemblies that contain both of those components.

The sound is directly correlated and in matching frequency with the tire/axle rotation directly. It is not a geared or stepped higher or lower frequency of that tire/axle rotation. Turbo would not follow the wheel or axle. Test by spooling turbo up quickly from 1500 to 4500 rpm and quickly take foot off gas to allow venting. The sound of the turbo will not be in sync with the sound of the noise.

If it was cvt, then put it in sport mode and let it auto shift. Or use manual drive modes to change gears. The change in rpms of the engine will not match the noise. In both instances, the noise will just continue along, based on road speed, and the noises in the other components will not be in sync, signifying that they are unrelated.

You need to take it to a dealership. Even if you receive an acceptable answer, it's still going to end up in the shop.
 

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All the recent activity on this post AFTER 2011 should probably be merged over to the other, original thread.

You stated in that post that the noise softens a bit when in neutral, which is part of the equation of my suggestion. I'm going to stick with tire/wheel/bearing, but add cv axle to that. It is definitely an external noise being exuded through the tire/drive area. The low frequency of the sound ensures it. If it was turbo or CVT it would sound much more high pitched, metal on metal, being exuded by the metal mechanical assemblies that contain both of those components.

The sound is directly correlated and in matching frequency with the tire/axle rotation directly. It is not a geared or stepped higher or lower frequency of that tire/axle rotation. Turbo would not follow the wheel or axle. Test by spooling turbo up quickly from 1500 to 4500 rpm and quickly take foot off gas to allow venting. The sound of the turbo will not be in sync with the sound of the noise.

If it was cvt, then put it in sport mode and let it auto shift. Or use manual drive modes to change gears. The change in rpms of the engine will not match the noise. In both instances, the noise will just continue along, based on road speed, and the noises in the other components will not be in sync, signifying that they are unrelated.

You need to take it to a dealership. Even if you receive an acceptable answer, it's still going to end up in the shop.

Thank you for your detailed explanation. Would this repair be easier on the wallet as compared to any CVT-related issues? I would think so.
 
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