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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted a while ago about my sick car. Bought at Carmax, my first mistake, in September 2021, it's now August 2022. I got the extended care warranty. I had the car for a month, less than 4k miles and 90 days, and it lost its edge. I was turning onto a busy highway for a tight gap and second gear shot up to about 5k and and when i shifted into 3rd that's when it started lagging. no get up, rpms are 1k higher than when I bought the car, feels like it's stuck in ECO. 3rd gear, 3k rpms was 50 mph when I bought the car. I'm a numbers guy I pay attention the numbers and patterns. Now 3rd gear 3k rpms is only 40 mph. There is also a a very faint rattling/clicking sound around 2k-2.5k rpms when accelerating. You have to roll the window down and be near a curb or something to bounce the sound up to hear it. When I bought the car it was a hummingbird to the point my wife pointed out it was a very smooth ride. Now I feel slight but noticeable vibrations in the steering wheel, shifter and gas pedal. I've taken it in to Carmax 3 times and the local Nissan Dealership twice, they all say car is fine. They both basically call me a liar and take my $200 dollars for a diagnostic. I took it back a fourth time to Carmax, had a heated discussion with the service manager and magically they notified me my clutch was VERY worn... I mentioned that if they had listened to me the first time and looked I wouldn't be in this situation. I took the Juke to a local performance shop and had them replace the clutch. Job was done and the car is still laggy. They showed me my clutch and flywheel. clutch was hot spotted and the flywheel had a lot of play. The clutch feels great but I still have no power. Handyman fleet vans loaded with ladders and equipment beat me off the line at red lights even in sport mode. This isn't my first manual and I've done autocross a few times, I know how to drive a manual. (I felt like that was a necessary footnote with the way I've been talked to by the mechanics in the past). I'm so lost what it could be. I've tried HEET as well, maybe it was an clogged injector or something in the fuel system. Turbo has been smoke tested, no leak. steady 9-10 lbs pressure peaked about 12. I've read that's pretty normal for the Nismo. Willing to meet someone (in a busy, well lit area) who KNOWS Jukes in the SWFL (Tampa/Orlando area on down on the gulf side.) to test drive or consult over my car.
 

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Did you have a technician test drive it? Telling someone what the issue is, and having them drive it are two different things. Datalogging would give more information, but at the end of the day, it is going to have to be diagnosed by a professional. Carmax is useless.

Also; speed at x rpm can only change if either the gear ratio was changed, or the dire OD was drastically changed. So. I am not sure where your getting a change of gear ratio from. That's not physically possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Been on 2 test drives with the "mechanics" at carmax. The car used to jump if I tapped the gas pedal now it a can floor it and no reaction, any rpm, any gear. The guys at the performance shop said they drove it around for 20 minutes after the work and said it felt fine... the first time I took it to the performance shop they took the oil cap off and the car shuddered and almost stalled. They didn't drive it that time.

Why can i pin point the moment of operation it happened? I didn't just wake up decide my car was slow.

Nissan told me I had misfires on 1+4 but no check engine light. I have my own scanner and I haven't got any codes. I took the invoice from Nissan to Carmax, they were entirely uninterested in what Nissan had to say about it.
 

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Again, carmax is useless. Codes don't come up on all scanners. They can be pending(this won't trip a CEL). Which, unless you have a decent scan tool or an uprev cable, you will not see. Removing the oil cap while the car is running is making a giant vacuum leak....as the PCV breather is completely open to the intake, so that is not a symptom.

As for the RPM thing; rpm and speed don't mean anything. That's a fixed mechanical gear ratio. That will not tell you the performance of the vehicle.

You need to datalog the car to see whats going on.

Those misfire codes could tell you some thing. You could have a rich/lean condition which is making the car stumble. This can be caused by vacuum/boost leaks, issues in the fuel system, failing or leaking diverter valve.

You could be making full boost, but if the turbo is extra laggy, you could have worn bearings causing the turbo to drag on the housing. A datalog will tell you if this is the case, or just taking the inlet off and inspecting the turbo will. You should have full boost by at least 2800 rpm if you mash the throttle at 2k rpm (in 4th or 5th gear, testing this stuff in lower gears will not give accurate data).
 
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