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Hello everyone, I have 2013 nissan juke sv cvt. It has roughly 81,000 miles. I got a solid yellow service engine light on and I took it to AutoZone to get the code read. It's p0101. Guy at AutoZone said it could be the mass airflow sensor or the air filter. I bought this car about 2 months ago, I've noticed it being kinda sluggish these past few weeks. Anyone else having these problems. I just feel like y'all would definitely know more for the juke. Also. The airbox the houses the filters the little plastic clips that hold it together are broken and all that's left are those two little metal parts that are supposed to hold it in place. So the airbox itself is not sealed all the way. Could this be the reason? Could really use some help guys. Thanks.
 

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Maybe grab a new intake since it seems yours is broken? The Nismo one is probably best but a pain in the ass to install. There are a number of much easier to install "short ram" intakes that are basically just a little tube with a filter. Unless you are adamant about not having turbo noise I wouldn't buy another OEM it will probably cost more. Could also see if you can devise a way to keep the stock one functioning. That may or may not be your issue but either way if it isn't sealed you'll be pulling unfiltered air into your motor and that isn't good.

Get a can of MAF spray at an auto parts store and spray the sensor down, it's the one built into the intake tube, held down by two screws. You can always buy a new one if needed they aren't notably expensive.
 

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The filter box not holding together wont cause a code like this. You can run the car with no filter and it wont effect anything. Does a p0101 mean the MAF is bad? not necessarily. You need to determine why the code is present. I know people are sick of me saying this but: bring it somewhere and have it properly diagnosed. A DTC Only points you in a general direction. a P0101 could show a need for a ecu update at nissan, it could mean theres a small vacuum leak, so on and so forth. Before you buy a $100+ MAF, get it looked at. Again, the code does not tell you or sure what the issue it is.
 

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The filter box not holding together wont cause a code like this. You can run the car with no filter and it wont effect anything. Does a p0101 mean the MAF is bad? not necessarily. You need to determine why the code is present. I know people are sick of me saying this but: bring it somewhere and have it properly diagnosed. A DTC Only points you in a general direction. a P0101 could show a need for a ecu update at nissan, it could mean theres a small vacuum leak, so on and so forth. Before you buy a $100+ MAF, get it looked at. Again, the code does not tell you or sure what the issue it is.

I 100% understand where you're coming from but if spraying the MAF doesn't fix it, replacing the MAF himself might be the best option. If that doesn't fix it then return it for your money back and go to dealership. If you go straight to the dealership he's likely not under warranty anymore and they charge a non refundable diagnostic fee, and if they decide to swap the MAF and that's the issue he pays dealer price for a part you can get online for under $100. I'm not sure what the dealership will charge for one but $200+ on top of the diagnostic fee wouldn't surprise me.

To your point though, checking everything for a leak is pretty easy to do, just visually inspect the clamps and maybe give them an extra screw twist.

IMO it's always best to check a few simple things before heading to the dealership. But it depends on how comfortable you are doing these things too - but it's mostly simple enough pretty much no one should be intimidated by it.
 

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I 100% understand where you're coming from but if spraying the MAF doesn't fix it, replacing the MAF himself might be the best option. If that doesn't fix it then return it for your money back and go to dealership. If you to straight to the dealership he's likely not under warranty anymore and they charge a non refundable diagnostic fee, and if they decide to swap the MAF and that's the issue he pays dealer price for a part you can get online for under $100. I'm not sure what the dealership will charge for one but $200+ on top of the diagnostic fee wouldn't surprise me.

To your point though, checking everything for a leak is pretty easy to do, just visually inspect the clamps and maybe give them an extra screw twist.

IMO it's always best to check a few simple things before heading to the dealership. But it depends on how comfortable you are doing these things to - but it's mostly simple enough pretty much no one should be intimidated by it.
99% of places will not take back an electronic part once its left the store. Most dealerships and repair places charge between $100-$125 for a simple diagnostic. And this code is known at Nissan for needing a ecu reprogram to fix it. I had done it on several jukes when I worked there. And a small vacuum leak will not be visible most of the time. And almost no leaks occur at clamps. On these it usually is in the intake accordion as small cracks, or one of the dozen evap hoses.
From my experience: you usually spend 10x longer trying to diag it yourself and spend 2x the $ on parts than if you get it diagnosed by a professional. Repair it yourself definitely, save on the labor cost, but diagnostics need to be done by someone who knows how to do it. Especially if it is your primary mode of transportation.
 

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99% of places will not take back an electronic part once its left the store. Most dealerships and repair places charge between $100-$125 for a simple diagnostic. And this code is known at Nissan for needing a ecu reprogram to fix it. I had done it on several jukes when I worked there. And a small vacuum leak will not be visible most of the time. And almost no leaks occur at clamps. On these it usually is in the intake accordion as small cracks, or one of the dozen evap hoses.
From my experience: you usually spend 10x longer trying to diag it yourself and spend 2x the $ on parts than if you get it diagnosed by a professional. Repair it yourself definitely, save on the labor cost, but diagnostics need to be done by someone who knows how to do it. Especially if it is your primary mode of transportation.
For sure. I guess it's just my nature to want to do things myself haha. Part of the learning process.
 

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Thanks for the tip guys, imma try to clean the MAF SENSOR and clear the code, see if it pops up and then check hoses before I try to replace the sensor. If all else fails.. I'll take it to the dealership
 

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Alright, so I cleaned the MAF SENSOR, with the cleaner and it still had the service engine soon light..this is a dumb question but what hoses should I check.. I don't really know much tbh. What's the best way to find leaks.
 

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188638

So, I watched a video and there was a guy with the same p0101 code and it was the air box that was loose cause of some broken clips. He closed the gap with some zip ties, which I was going to do.. I removed the air filter housing and I saw this loose hose.. I can't seem to find where it connects to. Do any of yall have any idea.. Or is this supposed to be like that. I don't know much about cars and am trying to learn all that I can. Sorry if it's something obvious that I couldn't find.
 

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That's the CVT breather hose, it's supposed to be open ended and is normally attached to the stock airbox. I don't have the stock airbox anymore and mine is just, kinda, there.
 

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Okay, so if it is the MAF SENSOR. Should I try oem or would a cheaper one be okay. Is there a aftermarket brand that you all think would be okay?
 

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What was I thinking... wasn’t helpful.
 

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Okay, so if it is the MAF SENSOR. Should I try oem or would a cheaper one be okay. Is there a aftermarket brand that you all think would be okay?
Try a cleaner first.

(edit, I just saw that you already did that)

 

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If you have to replace it, I would not go for an off-brand. I believe Hitachi is the supplier to Nissan, although it could be Denso. I would look to one of those brands if not going to the dealership to pay for the markup.
 

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Ask nissan if an ecu update is available for your car. That code has a reprogram attached to it on some cars. They should do it for free. As I mentioned before, have someone diagnose the issue properly.
 

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I personally wouldn't get an aftermarket MAF.....buuut, to be honest, they are such simple mechanisms I can't really see how manufacturing would vary much between them. One thing you could do is grab the Duralast MAF replacement from Autozone and see if it clears the code for good - if it does make a decision to keep the Duralast part or order up an OEM one and return the duralast one. Autozone has 30 day policy I believe on items like that, maybe even up to 90 days, and it will be fully returnable.

As Fast Religion noted it could be a programming issue too I suppose? I'm not super up to date on this stuff but the software didn't change, so I don't see how it could be fine for years and years and suddenly you need an update for a functioning OEM part to not throw a code. He used to work for Nissan though so would know better than me.

It could also be other issues too like an air leak somewhere, or I think even the MAP sensor having an issue can throw that code. You'll just have to weigh your options, but I will say that it might make more sense to go to a reliable private mechanic than to a dealership if you decide to have it looked at.
 

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this is the old bulletin in reference to the code on cars from 2011-2012, this particular one is from 2015. I cannot find a copy of the new one online, i would need to have nissan email it to me, but it gives you the idea:
188691

as for why it would pop up all of a sudden. I do not know for sure but i suspect it is some sort of deteriorating variable value in the programing. Imagine a clock falls .001 seconds behind every 60 minutes. For years it would seem right, but eventually it would be off, then more off, then more off. Funnily enough this actually happened to a military missile defense system in the US a few years back. In testing they found an internal clock for guiding the air to air missiles was off by millisecond's and they could not find why, until they found the code for time in the software was off: The Patriot Missile Failure

I had to do this reprogram on my personal jukes (2 of them) for the same code. Not saying it is NOT a maf issue, but again it needs to be diagnosed properly.
 

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I've done research on P0101 setting criteria. First off, Nissan may have had a parts change mid-production run or their supplier of MAFs changed something. Or the original ECU programming had too tight of an expected range. Regardless, the value range reported by the MAF may be different than what the ECU is expecting. An update to the ECU programming refines the expected range.

The MAF is only used to control the engine and fuel delivery in open loop fueling where the control system will only dump fuel through the injectors to match the metered air coming in. This is done until the heated oxygen sensor is warmed up. In closed loop fueling, the engine control system runs based on the O2 sensor to keep AFR in range. The MAF is then used as a verification of sorts that the calculated amount of air (calculated by the control loop) is actually entering the engine. This is why it's rare the MAF actually went bad. More than likely there is a vacuum leak and air is being pulled in elsewhere, thus less is flowing past the MAF and now no longer within the expected range as calculated by the control loop. Or the reverse where the intake tract is sized differently and the MAF is seeing more air past the MAF than expected. of course it still could be a number of things and should be professionally diagnosed.

For reference, I had a hell of a time with P0101. For me it turned out to be a bad tune from 2J (story told in my other threads). P0101 would only appear after driving for some time, so I knew I was in closed loop fueling. The P0101 would also go away and come back on its own. I got a proper tune and have never had the P0101 pop up since then (going on almost a year now). Haven't changed anything in the intake. This tells me the scaling of the MAF in the tune was off for the intake I had (Injen CAI).
 
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