Nissan Juke : Juke Forums banner

101 - 120 of 131 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,974 Posts
So you pour it in while car is idling and then once its all in there and soaked you then take the car out for a hard run? Just confused because you said you pour it in and watch the exhaust for white smoke, but then said once its all in you start it up and go for a drive.
Sorry for the confusion. yes, pour it in slowly with the car idling. eventually the engine will start burning some of it off as well as the carbon deposits. when that happens you will see an every so slight wisp of white smoke come out of the exhaust. that's when the engine and cylinders have enough seafoam saturated within. That's when I shut off the engine and let it sit and soak for at least 5 minutes. then I take it out for a spin to burn everything off. I don't have many close neighbors, so I don't care about making a smoke screen. most people just think it's dust or smoke from a nearby farm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Just sea foamed using the pictures pboglio posted and and everything seems to have worked well. Smoked like crazy when I went for a ride but the response time seems better and my car seems to idle better now.

It did cause a service engine light to go on. Should I just keep driving it to see if it goes out by itself, or should I take the battery off to clear it?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
It did cause a service engine light to go on. Should I just keep driving it to see if it goes out by itself, or should I take the battery off to clear it?
Most likely a misfire code. Running intake cleaners can sometimes make the engine run rough enough to trigger a misfire code.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Just as a follow up the check engine light turned off already.
The code is still stored, it just means it is a past code. You can still hook up the scan tool and pull the code to see what it was. Most past codes will stay stored for 50 key cycles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Well, for what its worth: Took my Juke in to the dealer here for its 15,000 mile service & synthetic oil change today. They include that BG treatment (like Seafoam) as a routine part of what they do. Didn't ask for a specific number, just the brand name.

Also asked them to use the larger oil filter. At first, the guy said there wasn't a larger filter, it should be 4.8 quarts, until I mentioned -9E01A -- then he said, 'OK we can use that one'.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
502 Posts
Anecdotes aside. I have used Seafoam in many vehicles and discussed it with many technicians and all agree that it won't hurt anything and generally works wonderfully.

Most likely a misfire code. Running intake cleaners can sometimes make the engine run rough enough to trigger a misfire code.
While anything is possible, Seafoam doesn't make engines run rough. I've used it in race cars and street cars for over a decade and never noticed a single change in engine running, idling or at speed, in anything from lawnmowers to race cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts


This location works well for me, it draws air upstream of the cylinder head where all 4 cylinders can draw from which is critical.
I'm not a huge motorhead and am unsure of which line in this picture I should be using. Is it the one that is on top with the metal clamp (outlined in red)? 20130825_175731.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Never mind, I figured it out. Used the top hose and went fine. I used an old spray bottle to put the seafoam into. That way I was able to put the nozzle right up against the hose to keep vacuum in the line. I think next time I will be waiting til nightfall... waaaaay too much smoke for a residential area. Hard to tell if it's running smoother or not, don't want to get caught up in a placebo effect. Easy and cheap enough to do every oil change. I will be adding this on to my regular maintenance.
 

·
Registered
2014 Juke Nismo FWD
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
I've got to by a bottle and try this already!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I just joined all and wanted to share what we see as techs when we tear these down. I advise do NOT use any solvent based upper induction cleaning. While they do fine w/no damage on old port injection engines, the DI engines have such severe and hard deposits that when the solvent expands the deposits breaking them loose the smaller particles are forced between the piston and cylinder walls causing scouring....if severe enough this compounds the problem and results in added blow by and premature engine wear. Only a properly performed manual brush or walnut shell media blast can do this w/out damage. Also, for turbo equipped engines these large chunks exiting hit the hot side turbine wheels damaging them resulting in lost boost and failure. I know this is pushed at most all dealers as it is so profit heavy, but the engine damage is not worth it.

Here are some good videos to watch for better understanding:

Brush style with good explanation of DI:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Pz0zTQ1bz0

Best IMHO:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONp6gQXpyKU

The only true solution to prevent this is to trap the oil and other compounds before they enter the intake air charge, and the average catchcan (all catch some oil) allows most of the oil to pass right through them doing little to stop the buildup. Only a couple actually work properly no matter how big the brand name.

Ask questions, and any other techs join in and compare notes (those that do this daily....not the keyboard experts, we want fact only here as the internet is so full of misleading and inaccurate info).

I am an Automotive Engineer and member of SAE having been deeply involved in the R&D of DI engines and proper crankcase evacuation since 2008 as well as trained initially in 1974 by GM.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,244 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks all for the welcome!

One of the bigger names is having an independent test done currently against several I mentioned and others (so far they have completed the Moroso and it let pas app 70% of the oil through) but I don't know if they are going to test the SM. I have seen the SM work well IMHO, but the in-depth testing I copy and pasted from a Ford forum was a real eye opener. They do these over months and thousands of miles and then do it in reverse to be accurate and fair. I personally have used the Elite E2 can and the billet cleanside separator, but have not seen it tested like this either. They are one of the only ones that offer a complete solution (and RX of course from the test I posted) as we see ingestion come form mainly the foul side, and say 5-10% from the fresh side. And that is primarily due to the valve overlap reversion pulses that cancel out any vacuum present when over say 2/3rds throttle.

Ask details on DI engines and what happens when a Seafoam/BG/CRC type cleaner is used as well. Due to work hours, I can only get on forums sporadically but will do my best.

Cheers!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
992 Posts
Ask details on DI engines and what happens when a Seafoam/BG/CRC type cleaner is used...
Yes, this! I wondered myself what happens to the carbon build-up.
Also, does the type and brand of oil (such as Amsoil full synthetic) make any difference to amount of carbon build-up?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Most catch cans do not have any baffling or mesh in them to stop most of the oil mist from reaching the engine. I have seen cutaways of the Saikou Michi cans and they do have mesh inside to help stop the bad stuff from reaching the engine.

Also you have to remember the Juke puts out alot of blowby in the PCV system bone stock. You must check your catch cans at least every 2 weeks and drain them. If you wait an entire oil change to drain them it doesn't do much good as the can is very full and sometimes overfull causing the engine to siphon straight liquid goo into the engine, defeating the purpose of having the catch cans in the first place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
I make a habit to empty mine everytime I fill up my gas tank, I am always surprised to see how much comes out, more water than anything
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
I make a habit to empty mine everytime I fill up my gas tank, I am always surprised to see how much comes out, more water than anything
That water combines with the oily vapors and creates a nasty yellow-brown sludge. Nasty and stinks like hell and will make your eyes burn. Now image that building up over time....:(
 
101 - 120 of 131 Posts
Top