Nissan Juke : Juke Forums banner

81 - 100 of 131 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
694 Posts
Very interesting idea JerseyDevil. I recently saw MRP was selling a methanol injection kit for the Juke but didn't think of it being used that way.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Doesn't work like that. All of the cleaning chemicals are flammable when introduced into the combustion chamber and burn to an extent.

Doing so with a meth kit for uses other than power gains still require tuning for because it alters the combustion processes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
849 Posts
Yes.. taht's why i said need a cleaner that is non flammable. I don't even know if a solvent that will break down carbon exists in a nonflammable form. I do understand that meth is combustable and needs to be tuned for, but what i don't know is if it's a sufficent solvent to break down carbon build ups.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
So, I take it that BG 109 can be introduced into part #47472 a little at a time? I wrote BG today about a complete service, who performs it in my area and hopefully I will get a response in a couple of days.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
So, I take it that BG 109 can be introduced into part #47472 a little at a time? I wrote BG today about a complete service, who performs it in my area and hopefully I will get a response in a couple of days.
BG 109 is only added to the old oil right before you change it. It removes the varnish and breaks down the sludge buildup in the engine where oil is. It also helps to clean the oil rings on the pistons. It basically does the same thing as Kreen. When using 109 you must idle the engine for 10-20 minutes and immediately change the oil and filter.

109 will burn the crap out of your nose and eyes if you get a strong whiff of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
In that case, which of the BG products are used to clean the intake & valves when run through the vacuum line? Again, The part number above for the brake line vacuum, #47472 is this where the product can be allowed to trickle or siphoned from?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Any vacuum line connected to the brake booster should work.

I have had Walmart do this type of treatment not to mention I am sure if there is are plenty of shops willing to do this type of treatment in your area.

I do not use the brake booster when I seafoam because it is way easier for me to disconnect my boost gauge and use that line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
Seriously Guy, Walmart? Ok now, opinions from the folks who have done this. Which is better? Seafoam or BG products? Probably looking at doing this to mine this week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
I have done both. The only way to know for sure is in a lab or to pull the manifold off.

Some people don't feel comfortable doing the vacuum treatment themselves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Does anyone have an actual picture of the lines they put the sea foam into? I'm not great with cars so I have no idea what lines I have to use to inject the sea foam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
This is too much! I talked to 2 other Nissan dealers today. they say they know nothing about intake cleaning other than the fact that they offer induction & injector cleaning. Nissan has got to get their crap together! Now, I talked to my local Toyota service mgr who I deal with regarding auto glass. He said he uses BG Products all the time & that he has no issue doing my Juke for $89.00.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Did this a few days ago with my mechanic bro, told him my juke hit 45k miles and we should try it. We don't have the aerosol version of this product so I just bought a spray bottle at Home Depot and slowly introduced it to the brake booster line that way. We actually did it twice. The first time no smoke came out of the back, I think this is because we had the rpm a little high and it was burning the seafoam really fast. Took it out for a spin and nope, still nothing. We tried again the next day with another third of the bottle, this time we were soft on the gas. We turned off the engine as soon as the fluid was depleted and we made it soak for 15 mins. This time a barrage of white smoke came out, I think we did it right lol. When the white smoke cleared a little I drove it to redline to shock the carbon out. I always tell myself not to get fooled by placebo but in all honesty the car is running much smoother since the treatment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,607 Posts
20130825_175731.jpg

This location works well for me, it draws air upstream of the cylinder head where all 4 cylinders can draw from which is critical. I do it every 5k miles and the topend power improves after each Seafoam treatment. Some say the smoke you see is actually the kerosene being burned and not the carbon deposits on the valves/pistons, but again it improves the car's response/topend every time. I go one step further and throw 1/4 of a can in each cylinder bore manually and soak it over night, then suck up the dissolved carbon with a Mityvac and then crank the engine to shoot the remainder out the open spark plug hole. This is not for the faint of heart but the piston tops come out clean as a bone. What comes out is pure dissolved carbon off the cylinder tops and is totally black. This is for those who think mechanically removing carbon deposits is required, which it isn't as seafoam will dissolve carbon deposits on contact unlike any other solvent I've tried.

Don't add it to the oil under any conditions regardless of what the can says, that is shear stupidity. Any synthetic oil has enough detergents to make the crankcase and oil galley's nearly spotless. I personally don't throw it into the fuel as I'm lazy and cheap but I'm sure it helps. With something as precise as a fuel injector, I simply send them out for sonic cleaning/backwash and get them blueprinted. Haven't tried it with the Juke/DIG injectors yet.
 

·
Registered
2014 Juke Nismo FWD
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
Alright, just so I understand (aLOT has been said so far in this long thread) and now that I physically see what line (brake booster) this treatment needs to be added to, would you guys say the basic instructions found on the seafoam site it accurate?

Using the vacuum line method of cleaning engines with Sea Foam Motor Treatment - Sea Foam Sales Company
(The part about the vacuum line method for cleaning.)

I plan on keeping the car for many years and miles and so I want to do all preventative measures I can and after reading up on this topic so much this seems to be a very important maintenance item. I just want this to be something I can do myself so I can do it more often rather than taking it somewhere to have done which I'm sure will start to get expensive.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,974 Posts


This location works well for me, it draws air upstream of the cylinder head where all 4 cylinders can draw from which is critical...
This is where I put my seafoam in. It's the reference line that goes to the intake manifold after the throttle body. I used about 1/3 of a can (liquid form) and just slowly poured it in while keeping the end of the hose half covered as to keep some vacuum in the line and create a suction that would pull the seafoam in without creating a mess as I poured it. Took me about 5 minutes to pour it in slowly. I always have someone watching the exhaust so when I start to see white wisps of smoke I know I've saturated the engine enough. Then let it sit for about 5 minutes, but you could probably let it sit longer like 15-30. But at some point it's done all the soaking it can and it's time for a smoke show. Start it up and pound the throttle for a mile or two to clean all the deposits out.
 

·
Registered
2014 Juke Nismo FWD
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
So you pour it in while car is idling and then once its all in there and soaked you then take the car out for a hard run? Just confused because you said you pour it in and watch the exhaust for white smoke, but then said once its all in you start it up and go for a drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,607 Posts
The saturating part is important. Most guys will just run it straight thru and see no smoke. The smoke usually happens if you let it sit for 15 minutes with the engine off. I always try to just coast thru the neighborhood before I get on it hard to avoid the massive embarrassment of the large smoke screen.

I can see why people worry about hydro-locking and are scared to try Seafoam. I pour the liquid into an old Windex bottle and spray it in. Zero risk. On occasion I get the aerosol version or the deep creep which is actually a foam and a little harder to use. Sometimes the car will throw a misfire code because the dissolved carbon and seafoam will soak the spark plug electrode. Some people pull the plugs and replace them but I just let them burn-off. For those that can't get a restart, a fresh set of plugs works good but often not required unless you massively soak the cylinders directly. I had to clear the code manually the last time which is the first time it happened. A pain but it's worth it.

For those that have been around awhile this stuff is similar to Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner which you could only get at Mitsubishi or Chrysler Dealerships. Asking for this stuff was like asking for crack, sometimes you'd get the craziest looks. Thankfully a trip to Napa for Seafoam avoids the dreaded trip to the dealership.
 
81 - 100 of 131 Posts
Top