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Thanks. I'll play around w/ sound dampening once I get things pulled apart, which may not be for a couple weeks. I get bored and need a project to keep me out of the house for a few hours, so this sounded like a good one. It's been a few years since I did an amp install, I just hope there is easy, existing access in the firewall.
 

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The Kicker Compvt fits perfect in the stock box. The holes even lined up. That was a fun project today in the 88 degree heat. I opted for the Rockford pbr300x1 to power it since it was so small. Sounds good!
How different does it sound compared to the stock Rockford Fosgate sub?
 

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How different does it sound compared to the stock Rockford Fosgate sub?
It's a noticeable difference. Honestly I couldn't even tell the Rockford sub was ever on. This is so loud it's actually too much for me at certain times. I'm keeping the gain rather low since I just wanted a little extra kick and I've ordered a remote bass control so I can cut it when it's too much.
 

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It's a noticeable difference. Honestly I couldn't even tell the Rockford sub was ever on. This is so loud it's actually too much for me at certain times. I'm keeping the gain rather low since I just wanted a little extra kick and I've ordered a remote bass control so I can cut it when it's too much.
Is the remote bass control for your Sub amp? Which amp did you use and where did you place it?
 

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Is the remote bass control for your Sub amp? Which amp did you use and where did you place it?
Yes it's for my sub amp. I used the Rockford PRB300x1. It's a very small 300w amp that's somewhat new tech for amps I guess. It pairs perfectly with the 2 ohm sub. I mounted it near the spare tire. I cut a notch out of the foam that sits next to the spare. I put a metal plate underneath and ran the wires through holes I drilled in the foam towards the front of the car. I'll have to get a shot of the finished product. I'm very happy with it and it's completely hidden.
 

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nice and smal, I guess it problably even fit behind the ICON module
Probably, it's only about an inch thick and 7" diagonal similar to the headunit opening. Certainly would fit behind the glovebox. They now sell the PBR300x4 4 channel amp as well. Both sell for under $150 a piece on amazon.
 

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All spread a photo of the case of a subwoofer with part number. Tell please part number a decorative plastic covering with a grill rockford fosgate which closes the case of a subwoofer!!!!
 

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That Nissan label on the sub box photo (above) shows an impedance (Z) of 0.6 ohms (Ω). This may not necessarily be the impedance of the speaker. It may instead be the impedance at which this amp produces a rated power output of 80Wrms.

Using a digital multi-meter, has anyone measured the resistance of the stock OEM subwoofer across the sub's terminal connectors without the amp connected? This measurement will tell you the DC resistance of the subwoofer. Multiplying this measured reading by 1.3 should give a very close approximation of the subwoofers impedance. It would be a good idea to match this impedance with any replacement subwoofer.
 

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Not enough enough room for a dynaxorb pad. Did not need an 8" ring, no touching of the sides of the enclosure but silicone was sprayed in to minimize the vibrations. I wasn't there for the screws but they do look the same.
Say ARF (old thread I know), exactly what silicone spray did you use and where did you use it?

I was thinking of spraying the outside and inside of the stock sub box with some type of sound deadening spray before I swap in a new sub. Any advice or recommendation for a sound deadening spray?

Maybe - 3M 03584?
 

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Say ARF (old thread I know), exactly what silicone spray did you use and where did you use it?

I was thinking of spraying the outside and inside of the stock sub box with some type of sound deadening spray before I swap in a new sub. Any advice or recommendation for a sound deadening spray?

Maybe - 3M 03584?
That looks like it will work.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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This is an early pic of where I mounted the amp. Still need to snap a finished product picture.
Hey, wouldn't this Rockford PBR300X1 amp with the Rockford P3SD2-8 sub replace the amp and sub in the original enclosure?
 

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Old thread, might not get an answer from that member...
 

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my juke is a 2013 sl and my while enjoying my subwoofer sound i guess at some point a screw vibrated loose and fell out from the bass thumping and its rattling around loose behind the plastic panel when im jammimg out and if ur outside of my car its sounds louder and sounds like **** and u can see the loose screw threw the panel so my question would be how do i get or remove the panel so i can put the screw back in the sub? dont want to break off any panel clips or brackets if it has any so i cant figure out where to grab to get it off. i dont see any screws to remove feel stupid and frustrated.... help
 

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my juke is a 2013 sl and my while enjoying my subwoofer sound i guess at some point a screw vibrated loose and fell out from the bass thumping and its rattling around loose behind the plastic panel when im jammimg out and if ur outside of my car its sounds louder and sounds like **** and u can see the loose screw threw the panel so my question would be how do i get or remove the panel so i can put the screw back in the sub? dont want to break off any panel clips or brackets if it has any so i cant figure out where to grab to get it off. i dont see any screws to remove feel stupid and frustrated.... help
Hi, Wondering if you ever received any help. I'm having the identical issue with my 2013 Juke SL with the addition of the amp actually clunking around to where we thought we were having shock issues and replaced them. Any help would be greatly appreicate. Hate to risk breaking off any clip/brackets.
Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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It took about 10 minutes to figure it out and actually do it so not much. Use a socket (not sure what size) and remove the back seat. You'll have to flip up the carpet to see the bolts. There will be 2 in the middle and 1 on the side towards the backdoor. Next pull the trim piece that runs across the back hatch area and the weather stripping. You'll see some white plugs holding the trim panel to the frame of the car. Use a pry tool to pop them out. You'll see the white plugs in the hatch and in backseat area. After that the panel should come right off.
 
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