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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone taken the rear driver side panel off yet? I'm curious if the RF sub is in a sealed enclosure or if it's free air. I don't have a Juke yet so I can't check myself but I'm getting excited about owning one soon!
 

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i would have to say they way that thing hits its sealed. thats a mean *** stock sub. i just lost my cobalt LT2 it had a pioneer 10" that was weak that fosgate sounds so good and hits really hard for a stock system
 

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Stock SL radio is Meh, at best. I am not real impressed. It wouldn't take much to fill our Jukes with some real sound.
 

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This may be a stupid question, but Reaudio offers an 8" sub that can handle 2000W and I have an old school earthquake amp that happens to push just that...

Thoughts? And go...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I got my Juke last week and took the back panel off today. It is in a sealed box. The depth of the box is 3.5". There are screws on the front of the sub that hold it to the box, like any other, but there is also one screw on the back of the box that screws into the sub itself. There is a recess on the back of the box where the screw is. If you were to cut this off and fill in the hole, you could get a sub with a 4" depth in it's place.

On the front, the sub is recessed about .5" into the box and there is about another 1" of space before you get to the interior panel. If you were to put an 8" ring around the opening you could probably get away without cutting and filling the back recess to fit anything bigger, but you might have a problem with the sub hitting the interior panel.

I would really like to use a Polk MM840 in it's place so I'm considering doing one of these. If I do, I'll let you know how it goes. Otherwise if you want to replace it your options are a Kicker Compvt, a Kenwood shallow mount, a Pioneer shallow mount, or an Earthquake SWS. I think JL had something too that would fit, but I can't remember.

If anyone has any questions let me know and I'll try to answer them! I'm drunk right now so I might have missed something or not explained it very well :)
 

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So I got my Juke last week and took the back panel off today. It is in a sealed box. The depth of the box is 3.5". There are screws on the front of the sub that hold it to the box, like any other, but there is also one screw on the back of the box that screws into the sub itself. There is a recess on the back of the box where the screw is. If you were to cut this off and fill in the hole, you could get a sub with a 4" depth in it's place.

On the front, the sub is recessed about .5" into the box and there is about another 1" of space before you get to the interior panel. If you were to put an 8" ring around the opening you could probably get away without cutting and filling the back recess to fit anything bigger, but you might have a problem with the sub hitting the interior panel.

I would really like to use a Polk MM840 in it's place so I'm considering doing one of these. If I do, I'll let you know how it goes. Otherwise if you want to replace it your options are a Kicker Compvt, a Kenwood shallow mount, a Pioneer shallow mount, or an Earthquake SWS. I think JL had something too that would fit, but I can't remember.

If anyone has any questions let me know and I'll try to answer them! I'm drunk right now so I might have missed something or not explained it very well :)
Thanks for that... You might know how it's hook up to the nav? and where the amp sits?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for that... You might know how it's hook up to the nav? and where the amp sits?
The amp is mounted on the box in the lower lefthand corner. It's pretty small. There's a sticker too that says it's 125W and 0.6 Ohms. I took some pictures that I'll post later if anyone's interested. They're on my phone and I don't have a cable to transfer them with me right now.

From what I can tell, there are 3 wires coming from the Nav unit to the sub...ground wire (red), positive sound signal (white), and negative sound signal (black). The ground wire is in the 20 pin plug on the back of the nav unit and the signal wires are in the 24 ping plug. They go to a plug on top of the box that goes to the amp. It must be picking up power and ground from somewhere else.
 

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I'd be interested if you can post the pictures up when you get a chance please... not got the sub in my Juke but could be a good place to fit one so pictures would help get an idea of what I'm looking at...
 

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The amp is mounted on the box in the lower lefthand corner. It's pretty small. There's a sticker too that says it's 125W and 0.6 Ohms. I took some pictures that I'll post later if anyone's interested. They're on my phone and I don't have a cable to transfer them with me right now.

From what I can tell, there are 3 wires coming from the Nav unit to the sub...ground wire (red), positive sound signal (white), and negative sound signal (black). The ground wire is in the 20 pin plug on the back of the nav unit and the signal wires are in the 24 ping plug. They go to a plug on top of the box that goes to the amp. It must be picking up power and ground from somewhere else.
Thanks for the pics.... I now know where to look for.

There are 6 wires.
1. battery
2.sound signal woofer(+)
3.GND
4.woofer amp. on signal
5.SHIELD
6.sound signal woofer(-)

Battery cable comes from the battery(duh),GND is connected to the chasis, soundsignals and amp. on signal connected to the NAV head unit,same as the "shield". But what do they mean by shield? Like a minus or something?

(I'm interested because in europe the sub isn't an option. Hoping for plug and play or else throwing in some cables myself and ordering the stock american sub. If only I had a flexible camera to take a peak behind the plastic cover. And I know I have to reconfigure the Nav for a system with subwoofer by computer but i'm sure the guys at the dealer want to help me with that)

How much work was it to take of that interrior JShadden?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the pics.... I now know where to look for.

There are 6 wires.
1. battery
2.sound signal woofer(+)
3.GND
4.woofer amp. on signal
5.SHIELD
6.sound signal woofer(-)

Battery cable comes from the battery(duh),GND is connected to the chasis, soundsignals and amp. on signal connected to the NAV head unit,same as the "shield". But what do they mean by shield? Like a minus or something?

(I'm interested because in europe the sub isn't an option. Hoping for plug and play or else throwing in some cables myself and ordering the stock american sub. If only I had a flexible camera to take a peak behind the plastic cover. And I know I have to reconfigure the Nav for a system with subwoofer by computer but i'm sure the guys at the dealer want to help me with that)

How much work was it to take of that interrior JShadden?
It took about 10 minutes to figure it out and actually do it so not much. Use a socket (not sure what size) and remove the back seat. You'll have to flip up the carpet to see the bolts. There will be 2 in the middle and 1 on the side towards the backdoor. Next pull the trim piece that runs across the back hatch area and the weather stripping. You'll see some white plugs holding the trim panel to the frame of the car. Use a pry tool to pop them out. You'll see the white plugs in the hatch and in backseat area. After that the panel should come right off.
 

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Pffffffffffff.... More work then I thought... When the wheater let me I'l be looking in to that.........

So what are your plans with the sub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pffffffffffff.... More work then I thought... When the wheater let me I'l be looking in to that.........

So what are your plans with the sub?
Yeah, if I was working outside I probably wouldn't have done it, but I had a heated garage to work in :)

I ordered a Polk MM840 to replace the stock sub yesterday. Since this depth is .5" more I plan on making a spacer to raise it up. I also picked two sets of HAT Imagine 6.5" components for the front a back doors, and an Alpine PDX-5 to drive all of it. Just trying to decide on a receiver now. Probably going to go with the new Clarion NX501 when it comes out.
 

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Ok... A hole new system for you........ Should sound nice.....
 

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How much would you sell the stock woofer for?

i'd like to get this for my daily beater. only 1speaker works now and im looking for a rather inexpensive/budget audio setup for my 3 hour drives to my parents house every other weekend.
 

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seemed like a good thread to post my thoughts...

I burned out my stock amp due to some water intrusions from a botched backup camera install (fixed now, but hadnt secured the boot/grommet well and caused some nice puddles) so I decided to upgrade.

I'm ordering the following and just curious to hear any thougths or strong opinions against my plan before I start:

Kicker compvt 8" 2 ohm for the stock replacement
This seemed like a logical choice given that it's a shallow mount, appears to have the same hole pattern even (rolling the dice) and has decent specs, certainly better than stock. It's cheap at around $75 and its not my intention to blow the windows out, just utilize the things I have since I burned up my stock sub setup. I'm just hoping I can get it to fit the stock enclousure, i do not want a box.


Rockford PBR300x1 for the amp replacement ( 175w RMS at 2ohms i believe) and it's small enough to have tons of mounting options

I considered a 5 channel amp instead, or the upcomming PBR300x4 4 channel amp in addition to the mono one, but I really think the door speakers are ample. I have AVIC Z120BT and paired w/ it, the stock door speakers sound plenty good for me.

Any thoughts are welcome before I hit the "place order" button :)
 

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seemed like a good thread to post my thoughts...

I burned out my stock amp due to some water intrusions from a botched backup camera install (fixed now, but hadnt secured the boot/grommet well and caused some nice puddles) so I decided to upgrade.

I'm ordering the following and just curious to hear any thougths or strong opinions against my plan before I start:

Kicker compvt 8" 2 ohm for the stock replacement
This seemed like a logical choice given that it's a shallow mount, appears to have the same hole pattern even (rolling the dice) and has decent specs, certainly better than stock. It's cheap at around $75 and its not my intention to blow the windows out, just utilize the things I have since I burned up my stock sub setup. I'm just hoping I can get it to fit the stock enclousure, i do not want a box.


Rockford PBR300x1 for the amp replacement ( 175w RMS at 2ohms i believe) and it's small enough to have tons of mounting options

I considered a 5 channel amp instead, or the upcomming PBR300x4 4 channel amp in addition to the mono one, but I really think the door speakers are ample. I have AVIC Z120BT and paired w/ it, the stock door speakers sound plenty good for me.

Any thoughts are welcome before I hit the "place order" button :)
I have the Kicker CVT 8 4 ohm with 180 W RMS and it is good. Tight fit back there even with that model. You will want to put as much material around it as possible to keep the vibration down. Even the stock speakers will benefit from more power.
 

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I have the Kicker CVT 8 4 ohm with 180 W RMS and it is good. Tight fit back there even with that model. You will want to put as much material around it as possible to keep the vibration down. Even the stock speakers will benefit from more power.
I have a decent sized roll of unused dynamat from an old project I plan to use. Did you run into any specific fit issues? Having read back through this thread there were recommendations for leveling out the recessed .5" of the speaker opening with an 8" ring etc, did you find that was necessary? Did the screw holes by chance line up? Any problems with it touching the inside of the enclosure and causing vibrations? I'm not sure if they create a baffle for an 8" or if that's even a bad idea, I know i've used them in door speakers before but just a though. Since you've already gone down this path any addtional words of advice are welcome. Thanks!
 

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I have a decent sized roll of unused dynamat from an old project I plan to use. Did you run into any specific fit issues? Having read back through this thread there were recommendations for leveling out the recessed .5" of the speaker opening with an 8" ring etc, did you find that was necessary? Did the screw holes by chance line up? Any problems with it touching the inside of the enclosure and causing vibrations? I'm not sure if they create a baffle for an 8" or if that's even a bad idea, I know i've used them in door speakers before but just a though. Since you've already gone down this path any addtional words of advice are welcome. Thanks!
Not enough enough room for a dynaxorb pad. Did not need an 8" ring, no touching of the sides of the enclosure but silicone was sprayed in to minimize the vibrations. I wasn't there for the screws but they do look the same.
 
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