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Note on removing the RF interior panel:
Don't.

Personally, I was able to clear out the cargo area, take out the floor liner and center trim piece and just peel the RF panel open enough to access the enclosure and wiring. You really only need to pop about 4 or 5 trim plugs along the top edge, right to where it meets the top of the seats. I didn't even tilt the rear seats down, you can just safely pry the panel open, unscrew the amp and unplug the harness, slide it all out and back in with no problem.

I agree with everything else that mac said, but only for the case that you are going to add an amp or more. If you simply want to hook up your new head unit to the OEM sub/amp combo that is in there now, you don't need to run ANY wires. Just splice into the head unit OEM harness, access the 3 wires you need, wire them all together, then call it a day.
 

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The only other options I see to retain bass, is ditching the factory sub entirely for a different enclosure set up. Though that would run costs higher and potentially sacrifice cargo space. Yet has potential to sound even better than the other methods mentioned.

If I were desperate, I'd go with Bargeld's wiring idea. But it really doesn't sit well with me. It may work and show some sort of results, but I wouldn't trust it to work well. Trying to depend on Pre-amp outs to provide a line signal seems quite sketchy. It may also drastically limit the bass output, or cause damage.
 

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If I were desperate, I'd go with Bargeld's wiring idea.
The other options are all valid, but they are all beyond the scope of what he originally asked... He got a new head unit and found that the sub wasn't working. He just wants to have the sub work. It's just a matter of tapping into 3 wires to make it happen.
 

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You are correct sir. Your solution does target the original issue more directly. And by no means do I wish to complicate the matter. Only to offer other remedies and options. I also don't mean to discount, discredit, or disrespect your input. Your method is quick and easy. Original problem solved. I was just tossing in my opinions that I personally would go a different route for better results. Despite being more involved and more expensive. But that's me. I suppose I choose my desperate words poorly.

Wiring from preamp just seems less ideal (to me). A solution that may satisfy and work. Yet not something I personally would do. But as the simplest effective solution, you win.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yes I originally stated I wanted to just change the head radio and that's so what I only want to do. Of course changing the speakers would definitely give me better sound but I'm happy with what the stock speakers are putting and I'm surprised at how much louder they are just by changing the radio. Just didn't want to lose my subwoofer so figured I'd ask here to get some answers. Thank you for all your help I am going to try this weekend to get the factory sub working. I don't want to lose any trunk space and like the clean look up the factory
 

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Then follow the info here. You wont lose anything. You will only gain better sound.
 

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Can you keep the stock Rockford Fosgate subwoofer in a 2014 Juke NISMO RS when changing the head unit? I just changed my radio to a pioneer 2440nex and I lost my subwoofer. Is there something that needs to be done to keep that? Or should it automatically work when changing head unit?
OE Sub
189260
amp remote is on slut 1 of the factory 20 Pin plug and + and - are on sluts 10 and 11 of the factory 24 pin plug.
 

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For the record, I have the OEM head with the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81 replacing the RF subwoofer. Still running the OEM amp on it, but I have also pulled the enclosure apart and added polyfill (which made a big difference).

My plan was to get a cheap 5 channel amp like the NXT JAD900.5 and power the Kicker with the mono sub channel.
Which harness did you use for the oem Sub amp? And is there 2 amps?
 
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