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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Can you keep the stock Rockford Fosgate subwoofer in a 2014 Juke NISMO RS when changing the head unit? I just changed my radio to a pioneer 2440nex and I lost my subwoofer. Is there something that needs to be done to keep that? Or should it automatically work when changing head unit?
 

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Yes.


It's wired incorrectly. Factory sub driven by factory amp. Integrate properly with the factory amp and factory sub will be retained.
 

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You will not have independent subwoofer control as the RF system did not have that. Check to see if the sub is playing but at a low volume. Make sure the Sub control is off on your new radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There's so much sound coming from all the other speakers makes it a little hard to tell but it seems there is none or very little vibration. Nothing like it should be. Any ideas how to fix this? The subwoofer is off on the new radio I tried turning it on and there is absolutely no difference
 

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Well if you had the stereo on. Hatch open. You would hear sound coming out of the sub in the hatch area.

Sub "on" with the new head unit is useless since you do not have the Sub output on the back of the new radio connected to an external amp and sub. Make sure the crossover on the main speakers is set to....... Read this as the HPF. High Pass Filter. This should be off. Its some where in the sound menus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I turn the sub off and the hpf off turn up the volume and do not think sound is coming from that speaker if it is extremely low. Door speakers a vibrating almost to the max and don't hear anything from the sub . Does that mean this radio is not powering my amp? Is there any settings on the amp to turn it up? Or could it be the wiring is wrong? I called out my store and they told me that my radio may not work with that amp is that possible? I thought the whole system would work if i just changed the radio am I wrong?
 

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What harness did you use for the head unit installation? That's what would be routing the wiring of the OEM sub/amp to the head unit. If it was done manually (spliced with no actual harness) there's a good chance that the sub wiring at the head unit isn't connected.

To clarify about the r/f sub a little, it's similar to a traditional aftermarket setup: there's an enclosure and the little amp is mounted directly on the enclosure. There are no gains or knobs or anything on the amp, it is just connected to 5 wires: power +/-, input +/-, and turn-on. If a wiring harness was used to install the OEM head, then it should be supplying input +/- and turn-on. The amp's power wires are run separately from the head unit.

Wiring info in word.doc format:
http://www.jukeforums.com/forum/att...9045083-juke-audio-wiring-info-jukewiring.doc
 

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Based on the instructions for that harness, it doesn't have subwoofer connections:

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20150723112300/Manuals/120/120707552.PDF

I'm pretty sure the nav system requires a dual-harness solution in order to connect to the second block of OEM wiring. Notice there are 2 harness blocks on the OEM unit, one (20 pin plug - the metra you have) has all the basics like illumination, ignition, power +/- , speakers +/- x4, etc. The other block (24 pin block) is the wiring for the additional nav features, like the sub, rear camera, etc. You are missing that block. Again, I refer back to the wiring.doc I linked earlier. Read the column on the right side and it shows which block/harness that the connection is part of. You can see "white 20 pin", "white 24 pin", "Satellite Radio Tuner, white 16 pin" etc.

 

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Edit: Looks like there may not be a 24 pin harness/adapter. Those wires will probably need to be manually spliced, based on the wiring info, in order to gain access to the OEM sub wires behind the OEM head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you for all your help. So since the amp seems to be different wires than all the other wiring harnesses does that mean that I can wire that subwoofer as an extra subwoofer on the radio and just adjust that? Or is there anyway I can do that so I can adjust the bass the way I want without tampering with the other speakers?
 

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If it were me, I would use the wiring.doc to figure out which wires are used for the subwoofer +/- and also for the amp power on (I believe it said it was a red wire, but check the .doc).

You will need to cut the sub input +/- and splice it into an RCA female. Then plug your new head unit's MONO sub RCA output into that. That will allow you to use whatever features that the head unit has for the sub (this includes volume level, crossover, on/off or whatever your head unit has available).

Also, you will need to use the wiring.doc to figure out which wire is the amp turn-on. Then wire the new head unit's corresponding wire to it. (Usually this is a blue wire on the new head unit). That wire will tell the amp when to to turn on/off.

Since the OEM sub amp has no other controls, there is nothing else you need to adjust on the amp itself.

To me, the only unknown to all of this is whether the RCA output of your head unit will be an acceptable voltage to run the amp input. Again, if it were me, I would set the sub volume on the head unit to it's lowest setting, and make sure the head unit has the sub ON and the crossover ON. Then wire everything up. Then turn the system on and turn the system volume up slowly until you can clearly hear the main speakers. Then turn the sub volume up slowly until you get to a preferred volume setting. Hopefully the head unit and the amp are a good enough match for each other and everything will be exactly as desired. If the head unit's RCA signal is too wimpy, then there are still solutions to fix that, but don't worry about it until you try the above.
 

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According to a doc found here, The subwoofer is white+ , black-. White 24 pin plug (as Bargeld said) , pins 10 and 11. I couldn't find a wiring harness interface for that either.

In all honesty, This is what I would do if I were you.

Rip the Fosgate woofer out of the OEM housing, and plop in something like the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81. Search the forums for examples of that. Disconnect and discard the sub's amp. Use something like a JL Audio JX250/1D amp to power the modified sub box. Mount the amp under the cargo flooring. Wiring would be conventional, and clean. Sound quality vastly improved. Higher decibels reached. Controlling the level of bass can be controlled.
 

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As for my method, or a cheaper variant...Even if you left the woofer alone, just putting in a better/different amp would solve the issues too. Like this Kicker 42PXA2002. It's rated at 100 watts RMS x 2 at 1 ohm. The factory Fosgate sub is 80 watts RMS, 120 watts max. Wired at 0.6 ohm draw. I would bet that combo would get along just fine. You could still swap the speaker as a further upgrade later if you desired.

Again, this would be a stable, and improved sounding method. It would sound as good as replacing the woofer. The upgraded sub can handle many more watts and perform better. And the JL amp from my first suggestion pushes more watts cleaner. But this cheaper method would prove a quality upgrade still.
 

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For the record, I have the OEM head with the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81 replacing the RF subwoofer. Still running the OEM amp on it, but I have also pulled the enclosure apart and added polyfill (which made a big difference).

My plan was to get a cheap 5 channel amp like the NXT JAD900.5 and power the Kicker with the mono sub channel.
 

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Awesome info guys.

The best ideas have been stated. I just want to add some in between the lines info. It is more work but the results are worth it.

Chances are if you spliced in. You would not have subwoofer level and sub crossover control and that would be annoying. Listen to Music and the bass is never the same.

The Juke is very conducive to tunes. Meaning wiring is a breeze and stereo install is easy. Plastic pops off and goes back on easily. Tucking wires under this and that is intuitive.

Just replace the Sub as stated above in the RF enclosure. Add pillow stuffing or other filler as stated. Getting to the sub is the worst part of this. The side panel is a pain but easy to do. Cargo area should be emptied to expose the spare tire.

Add a RCA cable to the sub out on your new head unit. Run it back to your RF enclosure area. Try to get twisted pair wire technology to reject any noise in the car. Not super needed but it can help. Also try to get a RCA cable that has a blue wire on it for remote amp turn on. More on this later.

Buy a small two channel amp. 100watts bridged is fine. Bigger is better tho. Run it in Mono meaning bridged. RCAs connect to this. Run speaker wire to the new sub in the RF enclosure. Make a small hole, insert the spkr wire and silicone/putty/gum it shut. The amp will go somewhere near the sub prolly in that open area in the corner under all the cargo covers. Your choice.

Now Powering and turning on the sub amp. You can try to use the wires from the plug that goes into the RF amp on the sub but I would not recommend to do this. Buy some 8 gauge power wire for car stereo. Red. Buy an inline fuse. This will need to mounted close to the battery positive. You go thru the Big rubber grommet behind the brake pedal in the fire wall. Plenty of Youtube videos here on how to wire a car stereo and amp.

Once you have the power wire and RCA cable run to your amp. You need to ground it. Easy to do. Again Youtube amp installs. Short section of 8 gauge(it can be red stuff from the power cable) from the amp to a screw or bolt cleaned of paint with a ring terminal on one end.

As far as turning the amp on you can test for key on voltage at the RF amp gang plug. Run that wire to the amp or use the blue wire from your head unit and use that on your amp.

Whew. Ok thats about it. Sounds like a alot but its not. The most time consuming is the RF/Kicker/Panel removal install. The wiring over all is easy peasy and goes by very fast. Maybe an hour for the wiring as you already know how to take the head unit out.
 
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