[edconline]

Went to go buy my MT-85 from the shop I went too last time and unfortunately they were sold out. Went with Motul 300 Gear oil since I've heard great things about them and sure enough, also great stuff. The notchiness that started to return as the redline oil got older went away again. Super smooth, buttery shifts are back. Slides in and out of gear no problem. I did go 75w-90 instead of 75w-85 but when warmed up, I think it is smoother than ever.

Just like Redline, it is a full esther base but this is a GL-4/GL-5 blend. Normally GL-5 is not a good thing for yellow metals but Motul has very limited EP in it that makes it safe to still run with yellow metals (brass synchros). The shop I bough it from is a full Nissan only shop that builds track cars for people. From drifting, to autocross and road course to drag cars. They say they use it in all their cars and never have once had an issue with it.

Anyways, when I run out of Redline 5w-30, I may give Motul a shot. They are also full Esther base and my seller has also offered to sell me Motul at a couple percent above cost which saves me about $15 per oil change comparing to paying retail of Redline oil. Also, met a friend who is an Amsoil dealer which I can also get at cost also so there's always that route that will save me some money. All 3 companies which are known for their VERY outstanding oils. Amsoil is just not esther base which I know Nissan motors love.

Good info!
I use Motul RBF600 for brake and clutch, haven't tried their other fluids but I'm sure they are also top notch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ChrisChhorn]

Good info!
I use Motul RBF600 for brake and clutch, haven't tried their other fluids but I'm sure they are also top notch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same here. I figured I may end up a full Motul car with the price they are giving me on oil. Hmmm... Maybe I can get a partial sponsorship for track days to help with maintenance cost lol. Yeah right, too small to make an impact. :culpability:

 

[Boosted-RS]

Definately going to do this.
My Juke is over 40K and am performing all survice DIY.
Service done so far:
1) Oil (Royal Purple and RP filter) Fumoto F-103N Engine Oil Drain Valve
2) Brake/Clutch Fluid (OEM Nissan)
3) OCC install
4) Intake Resonator Delete
5) Cabin Filter FRAM CF11177 and Intake Air Filter KandN
6) Transmission Fluid Change ..Coming Soon!

Thanks for the writeups!! Keep them coming.

 

[Scougar]

Definately going to do this.
My Juke is over 40K and am performing all survice DIY.
Service done so far:
1) Oil (Royal Purple and RP filter) Fumoto F-103N Engine Oil Drain Valve
2) Brake/Clutch Fluid (OEM Nissan)
3) OCC install
4) Intake Resonator Delete
5) Cabin Filter FRAM CF11177 and Intake Air Filter KandN
6) Transmission Fluid Change ..Coming Soon!

Thanks for the writeups!! Keep them coming.

Don't get a K&N, you don't want the oil. Get an AEM dry filter instead. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQZOFD...olid=2DT49SK6YEZS8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

(If you are not aware AEM is an awesome brand. For my 2014 RS, the panel filter is: P/N 28-20409)

 

[MadJDM]

Just thought I’d leave some bits of info from my experience:

On my 2011 SL the fill plug is readily accessible after removing the tire, no trim removal/fender lining moving needed! (Am I missing some?)

Also, the drain plug seems to be a square bit, not a hex. I’m actually going to have to go to Home Depot to find it, but I’m pretty sure it’s this size Milwaukee 1 in. #2 Square Recess Shockwave Impact Duty Steel Insert Bits (5-Pack)-48-32-4605 - The Home Depot

 

[Macgyver]

Should be a 3/8 socket end ?

 

[MadJDM]

Should be a 3/8 socket end ?

I’ll try the 3/8 again... maybe I was being impatient, but I couldn’t get it to fit.

this is what it looks like

:::EDIT:::
So, just in case anyone else encounters this issue on their manual transmissions...

The 3/8 is too big, and the 1/4 is a bit too small. I did some sleuthing and found this

The male square head on it is 8mm, a little larger than 1/4 but smaller than 3/8. I couldn’t find any English reviews or details about it, but one person mentioned Renault (in Italian), whom co-developed the mr16ddt, so I feel like I’m on the right path.
I’m going to order this bad boy and pray it fits the mystery hole. ??‍♂

 

[Macgyver]

Just grind the 3/8" down to fit.

 

[Siddasloth]

So in searching through Google and looking at posted Service manuals, I had not seen anything for the 6MT Nismo RS as far as a transmission fluid change, where the plugs were and so on. Only pictures I did find were incorrect based off my car. Even though Nissan states this stuff can last 30K, Ive seen 1st hand what transmission fluids look like at their recommended change interval and its not pretty. After doing the service on my wife BMW 135i (stated "Lifetime" through BMW yet Shell who makes the oil, said 60K max), Im convinced these manuals are not always in the best interest of the car if your planning on keeping them. That being said- my car has 17K on it and was getting it transmission fluid changed and in the end- super easy and well worth it.


I did find the correct fluid and was surprised that my local Nissan Dealership argued with me that the fluid they use for all Jukes, is the standard formula. After showing the service tech the manual, he then said they had that in a larger drum and didn't sell it by the quart.... Thank god for Amazon.

Found both and even with a screw up on my part and ordering from another Nissan Dealership out of Dallas, TX, the cost to me with having Prime, really made sense to just buy it from Amazon. Also got the pump. So after looking at the whole operation, it can be done with access from the bottom of the car but it was so much easier to pump the new fluid in from the drivers side wheel well, I figured I would show that too. Additionally- the different dealerships that did ship the fluid seemed to not understand the conversion and one stated I needed (2) quarts while the other stated I needed (3). As stated before- i screwed up and accidentally ordered from both Amazon and the dealership so I now had (5) quarts. I will show you that you can do this with just (2) and save yourself a lot of money since this stuff must be magical and laced with fairy dust at $20 a quart.

Here is what it looked like when I tried to pump a 3rd bottle- the one on the right is the one I pumped from- got one pump and all of it dripped back out of the tranny. Save your money and fill the tranny with (2) quarts and your good



Basically if you can change your oil- you can do this and I found it immediately made the car run quieter, smoother and shifted much easier.

Tools-

• You need to get the car up in the air unless your are super skinny and can slide underneath. I use a QuickJack but the key here is the car needs to be level. If you lift the front, the back must be the same height. This is to make sure you can fill the tranny with the correct amount of fluid.
• 10mm allen key with a "torque multiplier" - I used a small hollow steel tube
• Drip pan capable of collecting at least 2 quarts
• small flat screw driver
• 10mm socket/ wrench
• (2) quarts of Nissan HQ Multi 75W-85 Manual Transmission Fluid - 999MP-MTF00P- Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-999MP-MTF00P-75W-85-Transmission/dp/B00AKYOU0M
• Fluid pump- I used this one off Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-...3_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ACV81WAH3MWBMXGVJ3SS
• Nissan recommends you replace the crush washer on both the drain and fill plugs. You can get those from Nissan

Fluid-



Process-

• You need to have the transmission up to at least 130 degrees so run it for a few minutes before starting. Don't run it for long as this stuff can burn so be careful.
• Once you have your stuff and chose to do the easy refill route- loosen the front drivers side lug nuts.
• Jack the car up to ensure its level- Some use jack stands up front and ramps in the rear
• Remove drivers front tire/ wheel
• Remove the the plastic inner fender well lining which is held in place with (2) 10mm screws on the bottom and snap-loc pins. To remove the snap-lox pins. use a small flat screw driver and pry up the center round cap till its raised- then pull the entire plug out of the hole. Do this for all of these until you can pull the liner out and bend it out of the way. I found I only needed to do this up to the very top of the fender- and that was sufficient.
• Bend the plastic liner up and out and stuff it back in on the opposite side of the drivers hub/ brakes. Just to get it out of the way.

It should look like this- The plug is under red arrow



A closer look



From below looking Up

• Always loosen the top "fill plug" 1st. If you can't take this off and drain the fluid out- you are screwed. I used the 10mm allen key with extra "umphhh" via the steel bar. Its on pretty tight.
• Position drain pan under lower plug and remove plug using 10mm allen key and bar. Remember- this is hot fluid- be careful.

Lower Plug is here

• Once all fluid has drained, replace crush washer on plug and reinstall plug with 10mm allen key. I torqued it with a decent amount based on how hard it was to remove. Don't go ape on it.

Note- I was surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetic- It had no metal particles built up as you would normally see on a 1st change

• Remove fluid transfer pump from packaging and install lower intake hose to bottom of pump.
• from the side- stuff the long exit hose up into the fill port. The hose will go in deeper if you angle it upwards to pass over the obstruction near the port hole. Wiggle the hose around until it finally goes in past the entrance
• Install fluid pump into 1st quart of tranny fluid- this is where doing it from the side is so much easier.
• Pump the fluid until its emptied the bottle- repeat with second bottle.
• Some fluid should start to drip from bottom of fill hole which indicates the transmission is full. Allow to drain and then replace crush washer and reinstall fill plug.
• Start car and watch plug areas for leaks- make sure its not in gear
• Turn off car
• Reinstall plastic fender liner with snap-lox pins and 10mm screws.

In the end, my iPhone wouldn't show what my eyes could see and that was the used fluid had a sheen of silver metal particles were still in suspension. While the amount wasn't alarming, it does indicate that these are better out of the transmission than floating around the gears. Fluids smell was similar to the stuff my wife Bimmer used (likely a slack wax similar in use to other ZF tranny fluids) and it did smell slightly burnt. The fluids color was very dark but somewhat translucent when thinned out.

Overall driving difference is remarkable. I used to commute 75+ miles daily and some was wide open 75 mph and some was bumper to bumper. The car started to make a gear wine through the last 5000 miles which is what prompted me to check into this. Im happy to report the sound is gone, the gears shift much smoother and the car seems to have less noise when downshifting/ higher RPMs.

For the cost (I spent way more than I should buying too much fluid)- its priced slightly higher than changing your motor oil with Royal Purple (Just did that too- Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with Natural gas plain sucks)

Hope that helps some out there

So in searching through Google and looking at posted Service manuals, I had not seen anything for the 6MT Nismo RS as far as a transmission fluid change, where the plugs were and so on. Only pictures I did find were incorrect based off my car. Even though Nissan states this stuff can last 30K, Ive seen 1st hand what transmission fluids look like at their recommended change interval and its not pretty. After doing the service on my wife BMW 135i (stated "Lifetime" through BMW yet Shell who makes the oil, said 60K max), Im convinced these manuals are not always in the best interest of the car if your planning on keeping them. That being said- my car has 17K on it and was getting it transmission fluid changed and in the end- super easy and well worth it.


I did find the correct fluid and was surprised that my local Nissan Dealership argued with me that the fluid they use for all Jukes, is the standard formula. After showing the service tech the manual, he then said they had that in a larger drum and didn't sell it by the quart.... Thank god for Amazon.

Found both and even with a screw up on my part and ordering from another Nissan Dealership out of Dallas, TX, the cost to me with having Prime, really made sense to just buy it from Amazon. Also got the pump. So after looking at the whole operation, it can be done with access from the bottom of the car but it was so much easier to pump the new fluid in from the drivers side wheel well, I figured I would show that too. Additionally- the different dealerships that did ship the fluid seemed to not understand the conversion and one stated I needed (2) quarts while the other stated I needed (3). As stated before- i screwed up and accidentally ordered from both Amazon and the dealership so I now had (5) quarts. I will show you that you can do this with just (2) and save yourself a lot of money since this stuff must be magical and laced with fairy dust at $20 a quart.

Here is what it looked like when I tried to pump a 3rd bottle- the one on the right is the one I pumped from- got one pump and all of it dripped back out of the tranny. Save your money and fill the tranny with (2) quarts and your good



Basically if you can change your oil- you can do this and I found it immediately made the car run quieter, smoother and shifted much easier.

Tools-

• You need to get the car up in the air unless your are super skinny and can slide underneath. I use a QuickJack but the key here is the car needs to be level. If you lift the front, the back must be the same height. This is to make sure you can fill the tranny with the correct amount of fluid.
• 10mm allen key with a "torque multiplier" - I used a small hollow steel tube
• Drip pan capable of collecting at least 2 quarts
• small flat screw driver
• 10mm socket/ wrench
• (2) quarts of Nissan HQ Multi 75W-85 Manual Transmission Fluid - 999MP-MTF00P- Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-999MP-MTF00P-75W-85-Transmission/dp/B00AKYOU0M
• Fluid pump- I used this one off Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-...3_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ACV81WAH3MWBMXGVJ3SS
• Nissan recommends you replace the crush washer on both the drain and fill plugs. You can get those from Nissan

Fluid-



Process-

• You need to have the transmission up to at least 130 degrees so run it for a few minutes before starting. Don't run it for long as this stuff can burn so be careful.
• Once you have your stuff and chose to do the easy refill route- loosen the front drivers side lug nuts.
• Jack the car up to ensure its level- Some use jack stands up front and ramps in the rear
• Remove drivers front tire/ wheel
• Remove the the plastic inner fender well lining which is held in place with (2) 10mm screws on the bottom and snap-loc pins. To remove the snap-lox pins. use a small flat screw driver and pry up the center round cap till its raised- then pull the entire plug out of the hole. Do this for all of these until you can pull the liner out and bend it out of the way. I found I only needed to do this up to the very top of the fender- and that was sufficient.
• Bend the plastic liner up and out and stuff it back in on the opposite side of the drivers hub/ brakes. Just to get it out of the way.

It should look like this- The plug is under red arrow



A closer look



From below looking Up

• Always loosen the top "fill plug" 1st. If you can't take this off and drain the fluid out- you are screwed. I used the 10mm allen key with extra "umphhh" via the steel bar. Its on pretty tight.
• Position drain pan under lower plug and remove plug using 10mm allen key and bar. Remember- this is hot fluid- be careful.

Lower Plug is here

• Once all fluid has drained, replace crush washer on plug and reinstall plug with 10mm allen key. I torqued it with a decent amount based on how hard it was to remove. Don't go ape on it.

Note- I was surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetic- It had no metal particles built up as you would normally see on a 1st change

• Remove fluid transfer pump from packaging and install lower intake hose to bottom of pump.
• from the side- stuff the long exit hose up into the fill port. The hose will go in deeper if you angle it upwards to pass over the obstruction near the port hole. Wiggle the hose around until it finally goes in past the entrance
• Install fluid pump into 1st quart of tranny fluid- this is where doing it from the side is so much easier.
• Pump the fluid until its emptied the bottle- repeat with second bottle.
• Some fluid should start to drip from bottom of fill hole which indicates the transmission is full. Allow to drain and then replace crush washer and reinstall fill plug.
• Start car and watch plug areas for leaks- make sure its not in gear
• Turn off car
• Reinstall plastic fender liner with snap-lox pins and 10mm screws.

In the end, my iPhone wouldn't show what my eyes could see and that was the used fluid had a sheen of silver metal particles were still in suspension. While the amount wasn't alarming, it does indicate that these are better out of the transmission than floating around the gears. Fluids smell was similar to the stuff my wife Bimmer used (likely a slack wax similar in use to other ZF tranny fluids) and it did smell slightly burnt. The fluids color was very dark but somewhat translucent when thinned out.

Overall driving difference is remarkable. I used to commute 75+ miles daily and some was wide open 75 mph and some was bumper to bumper. The car started to make a gear wine through the last 5000 miles which is what prompted me to check into this. Im happy to report the sound is gone, the gears shift much smoother and the car seems to have less noise when downshifting/ higher RPMs.

For the cost (I spent way more than I should buying too much fluid)- its priced slightly higher than changing your motor oil with Royal Purple (Just did that too- Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with Natural gas plain sucks)

Hope that helps some out there

Hi i know this post is old but would this help a high pitch noise when going high speed???

 

[Macgyver]

Not really

 

[Aero31477]

So in searching through Google and looking at posted Service manuals, I had not seen anything for the 6MT Nismo RS as far as a transmission fluid change, where the plugs were and so on. Only pictures I did find were incorrect based off my car. Even though Nissan states this stuff can last 30K, Ive seen 1st hand what transmission fluids look like at their recommended change interval and its not pretty. After doing the service on my wife BMW 135i (stated "Lifetime" through BMW yet Shell who makes the oil, said 60K max), Im convinced these manuals are not always in the best interest of the car if your planning on keeping them. That being said- my car has 17K on it and was getting it transmission fluid changed and in the end- super easy and well worth it.


I did find the correct fluid and was surprised that my local Nissan Dealership argued with me that the fluid they use for all Jukes, is the standard formula. After showing the service tech the manual, he then said they had that in a larger drum and didn't sell it by the quart.... Thank god for Amazon.

Found both and even with a screw up on my part and ordering from another Nissan Dealership out of Dallas, TX, the cost to me with having Prime, really made sense to just buy it from Amazon. Also got the pump. So after looking at the whole operation, it can be done with access from the bottom of the car but it was so much easier to pump the new fluid in from the drivers side wheel well, I figured I would show that too. Additionally- the different dealerships that did ship the fluid seemed to not understand the conversion and one stated I needed (2) quarts while the other stated I needed (3). As stated before- i screwed up and accidentally ordered from both Amazon and the dealership so I now had (5) quarts. I will show you that you can do this with just (2) and save yourself a lot of money since this stuff must be magical and laced with fairy dust at $20 a quart.

Here is what it looked like when I tried to pump a 3rd bottle- the one on the right is the one I pumped from- got one pump and all of it dripped back out of the tranny. Save your money and fill the tranny with (2) quarts and your good



Basically if you can change your oil- you can do this and I found it immediately made the car run quieter, smoother and shifted much easier.

Tools-

• You need to get the car up in the air unless your are super skinny and can slide underneath. I use a QuickJack but the key here is the car needs to be level. If you lift the front, the back must be the same height. This is to make sure you can fill the tranny with the correct amount of fluid.
• 10mm allen key with a "torque multiplier" - I used a small hollow steel tube
• Drip pan capable of collecting at least 2 quarts
• small flat screw driver
• 10mm socket/ wrench
• (2) quarts of Nissan HQ Multi 75W-85 Manual Transmission Fluid - 999MP-MTF00P- Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-999MP-MTF00P-75W-85-Transmission/dp/B00AKYOU0M
• Fluid pump- I used this one off Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-...3_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ACV81WAH3MWBMXGVJ3SS
• Nissan recommends you replace the crush washer on both the drain and fill plugs. You can get those from Nissan

Fluid-



Process-

• You need to have the transmission up to at least 130 degrees so run it for a few minutes before starting. Don't run it for long as this stuff can burn so be careful.
• Once you have your stuff and chose to do the easy refill route- loosen the front drivers side lug nuts.
• Jack the car up to ensure its level- Some use jack stands up front and ramps in the rear
• Remove drivers front tire/ wheel
• Remove the the plastic inner fender well lining which is held in place with (2) 10mm screws on the bottom and snap-loc pins. To remove the snap-lox pins. use a small flat screw driver and pry up the center round cap till its raised- then pull the entire plug out of the hole. Do this for all of these until you can pull the liner out and bend it out of the way. I found I only needed to do this up to the very top of the fender- and that was sufficient.
• Bend the plastic liner up and out and stuff it back in on the opposite side of the drivers hub/ brakes. Just to get it out of the way.

It should look like this- The plug is under red arrow



A closer look



From below looking Up

• Always loosen the top "fill plug" 1st. If you can't take this off and drain the fluid out- you are screwed. I used the 10mm allen key with extra "umphhh" via the steel bar. Its on pretty tight.
• Position drain pan under lower plug and remove plug using 10mm allen key and bar. Remember- this is hot fluid- be careful.

Lower Plug is here

• Once all fluid has drained, replace crush washer on plug and reinstall plug with 10mm allen key. I torqued it with a decent amount based on how hard it was to remove. Don't go ape on it.

Note- I was surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetic- It had no metal particles built up as you would normally see on a 1st change

• Remove fluid transfer pump from packaging and install lower intake hose to bottom of pump.
• from the side- stuff the long exit hose up into the fill port. The hose will go in deeper if you angle it upwards to pass over the obstruction near the port hole. Wiggle the hose around until it finally goes in past the entrance
• Install fluid pump into 1st quart of tranny fluid- this is where doing it from the side is so much easier.
• Pump the fluid until its emptied the bottle- repeat with second bottle.
• Some fluid should start to drip from bottom of fill hole which indicates the transmission is full. Allow to drain and then replace crush washer and reinstall fill plug.
• Start car and watch plug areas for leaks- make sure its not in gear
• Turn off car
• Reinstall plastic fender liner with snap-lox pins and 10mm screws.

In the end, my iPhone wouldn't show what my eyes could see and that was the used fluid had a sheen of silver metal particles were still in suspension. While the amount wasn't alarming, it does indicate that these are better out of the transmission than floating around the gears. Fluids smell was similar to the stuff my wife Bimmer used (likely a slack wax similar in use to other ZF tranny fluids) and it did smell slightly burnt. The fluids color was very dark but somewhat translucent when thinned out.

Overall driving difference is remarkable. I used to commute 75+ miles daily and some was wide open 75 mph and some was bumper to bumper. The car started to make a gear wine through the last 5000 miles which is what prompted me to check into this. Im happy to report the sound is gone, the gears shift much smoother and the car seems to have less noise when downshifting/ higher RPMs.

For the cost (I spent way more than I should buying too much fluid)- its priced slightly higher than changing your motor oil with Royal Purple (Just did that too- Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with Natural gas plain sucks)

Hope that helps some out there

Question how did u get the full plug off what tool link anything I have a Nissan Juke nismo 2014 Maneul thank

So in searching through Google and looking at posted Service manuals, I had not seen anything for the 6MT Nismo RS as far as a transmission fluid change, where the plugs were and so on. Only pictures I did find were incorrect based off my car. Even though Nissan states this stuff can last 30K, Ive seen 1st hand what transmission fluids look like at their recommended change interval and its not pretty. After doing the service on my wife BMW 135i (stated "Lifetime" through BMW yet Shell who makes the oil, said 60K max), Im convinced these manuals are not always in the best interest of the car if your planning on keeping them. That being said- my car has 17K on it and was getting it transmission fluid changed and in the end- super easy and well worth it.


I did find the correct fluid and was surprised that my local Nissan Dealership argued with me that the fluid they use for all Jukes, is the standard formula. After showing the service tech the manual, he then said they had that in a larger drum and didn't sell it by the quart.... Thank god for Amazon.

Found both and even with a screw up on my part and ordering from another Nissan Dealership out of Dallas, TX, the cost to me with having Prime, really made sense to just buy it from Amazon. Also got the pump. So after looking at the whole operation, it can be done with access from the bottom of the car but it was so much easier to pump the new fluid in from the drivers side wheel well, I figured I would show that too. Additionally- the different dealerships that did ship the fluid seemed to not understand the conversion and one stated I needed (2) quarts while the other stated I needed (3). As stated before- i screwed up and accidentally ordered from both Amazon and the dealership so I now had (5) quarts. I will show you that you can do this with just (2) and save yourself a lot of money since this stuff must be magical and laced with fairy dust at $20 a quart.

Here is what it looked like when I tried to pump a 3rd bottle- the one on the right is the one I pumped from- got one pump and all of it dripped back out of the tranny. Save your money and fill the tranny with (2) quarts and your good



Basically if you can change your oil- you can do this and I found it immediately made the car run quieter, smoother and shifted much easier.

Tools-

• You need to get the car up in the air unless your are super skinny and can slide underneath. I use a QuickJack but the key here is the car needs to be level. If you lift the front, the back must be the same height. This is to make sure you can fill the tranny with the correct amount of fluid.
• 10mm allen key with a "torque multiplier" - I used a small hollow steel tube
• Drip pan capable of collecting at least 2 quarts
• small flat screw driver
• 10mm socket/ wrench
• (2) quarts of Nissan HQ Multi 75W-85 Manual Transmission Fluid - 999MP-MTF00P- Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-999MP-MTF00P-75W-85-Transmission/dp/B00AKYOU0M
• Fluid pump- I used this one off Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-...3_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ACV81WAH3MWBMXGVJ3SS
• Nissan recommends you replace the crush washer on both the drain and fill plugs. You can get those from Nissan

Fluid-



Process-

• You need to have the transmission up to at least 130 degrees so run it for a few minutes before starting. Don't run it for long as this stuff can burn so be careful.
• Once you have your stuff and chose to do the easy refill route- loosen the front drivers side lug nuts.
• Jack the car up to ensure its level- Some use jack stands up front and ramps in the rear
• Remove drivers front tire/ wheel
• Remove the the plastic inner fender well lining which is held in place with (2) 10mm screws on the bottom and snap-loc pins. To remove the snap-lox pins. use a small flat screw driver and pry up the center round cap till its raised- then pull the entire plug out of the hole. Do this for all of these until you can pull the liner out and bend it out of the way. I found I only needed to do this up to the very top of the fender- and that was sufficient.
• Bend the plastic liner up and out and stuff it back in on the opposite side of the drivers hub/ brakes. Just to get it out of the way.

It should look like this- The plug is under red arrow



A closer look



From below looking Up

• Always loosen the top "fill plug" 1st. If you can't take this off and drain the fluid out- you are screwed. I used the 10mm allen key with extra "umphhh" via the steel bar. Its on pretty tight.
• Position drain pan under lower plug and remove plug using 10mm allen key and bar. Remember- this is hot fluid- be careful.

Lower Plug is here

• Once all fluid has drained, replace crush washer on plug and reinstall plug with 10mm allen key. I torqued it with a decent amount based on how hard it was to remove. Don't go ape on it.

Note- I was surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetic- It had no metal particles built up as you would normally see on a 1st change

• Remove fluid transfer pump from packaging and install lower intake hose to bottom of pump.
• from the side- stuff the long exit hose up into the fill port. The hose will go in deeper if you angle it upwards to pass over the obstruction near the port hole. Wiggle the hose around until it finally goes in past the entrance
• Install fluid pump into 1st quart of tranny fluid- this is where doing it from the side is so much easier.
• Pump the fluid until its emptied the bottle- repeat with second bottle.
• Some fluid should start to drip from bottom of fill hole which indicates the transmission is full. Allow to drain and then replace crush washer and reinstall fill plug.
• Start car and watch plug areas for leaks- make sure its not in gear
• Turn off car
• Reinstall plastic fender liner with snap-lox pins and 10mm screws.

In the end, my iPhone wouldn't show what my eyes could see and that was the used fluid had a sheen of silver metal particles were still in suspension. While the amount wasn't alarming, it does indicate that these are better out of the transmission than floating around the gears. Fluids smell was similar to the stuff my wife Bimmer used (likely a slack wax similar in use to other ZF tranny fluids) and it did smell slightly burnt. The fluids color was very dark but somewhat translucent when thinned out.

Overall driving difference is remarkable. I used to commute 75+ miles daily and some was wide open 75 mph and some was bumper to bumper. The car started to make a gear wine through the last 5000 miles which is what prompted me to check into this. Im happy to report the sound is gone, the gears shift much smoother and the car seems to have less noise when downshifting/ higher RPMs.

For the cost (I spent way more than I should buying too much fluid)- its priced slightly higher than changing your motor oil with Royal Purple (Just did that too- Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with Natural gas plain sucks)

Hope that helps some out there

Which tool u used for. The. Fill plug link anything I can’t find it it’s a square Allen key but where please help

 

[Macgyver]

3/8 Socket or 1/2 socket end

 

[ChuckWJuke2011]

Hi all. I’m circling back to this older thread just to ask some questions as I’m about to do this on my 2011 SL 6MT. I’m an old school shade tree mechanic and I was always told that manual transmissions really don’t need to be messed with…,BUT……I’m trying to rule out a new noise coming from my transmission. I think it’s my throw out bearing but want to try the small stuff first. Haha. My Juke has 169,000 miles and to my knowledge, the tranny has never been serviced. I’ve owned it for almost three years and haven’t messed with it. From reading through the original post, it looks like the plug where the red arrow is pointing is the top plug? Is that correct? And the bottom plug is (obviously) underneath the tranny? I can’t remember, but did the original post mention how many quarts are needed and/or should I use a high mileage fluid or stick with factory fluid? Thanks all!!

 

[Macgyver]

The regular Juke takes different gear oil than a RS. Make sure you source the gear oil accordingly.

I think it takes two quarts.

The throw out bearing etc is known to go at your mileage so dont hold your breath. It is a time consuming repair too. With the trans out you might as well do the clutch etc.

Yes. One plug on the bottom and one on the side up high.