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So in searching through Google and looking at posted Service manuals, I had not seen anything for the 6MT Nismo RS as far as a transmission fluid change, where the plugs were and so on. Only pictures I did find were incorrect based off my car. Even though Nissan states this stuff can last 30K, Ive seen 1st hand what transmission fluids look like at their recommended change interval and its not pretty. After doing the service on my wife BMW 135i (stated "Lifetime" through BMW yet Shell who makes the oil, said 60K max), Im convinced these manuals are not always in the best interest of the car if your planning on keeping them. That being said- my car has 17K on it and was getting it transmission fluid changed and in the end- super easy and well worth it.


I did find the correct fluid and was surprised that my local Nissan Dealership argued with me that the fluid they use for all Jukes, is the standard formula. After showing the service tech the manual, he then said they had that in a larger drum and didn't sell it by the quart.... Thank god for Amazon.

Found both and even with a screw up on my part and ordering from another Nissan Dealership out of Dallas, TX, the cost to me with having Prime, really made sense to just buy it from Amazon. Also got the pump. So after looking at the whole operation, it can be done with access from the bottom of the car but it was so much easier to pump the new fluid in from the drivers side wheel well, I figured I would show that too. Additionally- the different dealerships that did ship the fluid seemed to not understand the conversion and one stated I needed (2) quarts while the other stated I needed (3). As stated before- i screwed up and accidentally ordered from both Amazon and the dealership so I now had (5) quarts. I will show you that you can do this with just (2) and save yourself a lot of money since this stuff must be magical and laced with fairy dust at $20 a quart.

Here is what it looked like when I tried to pump a 3rd bottle- the one on the right is the one I pumped from- got one pump and all of it dripped back out of the tranny. Save your money and fill the tranny with (2) quarts and your good



Basically if you can change your oil- you can do this and I found it immediately made the car run quieter, smoother and shifted much easier.

Tools-

Fluid-



Process-
  • You need to have the transmission up to at least 130 degrees so run it for a few minutes before starting. Don't run it for long as this stuff can burn so be careful.
  • Once you have your stuff and chose to do the easy refill route- loosen the front drivers side lug nuts.
  • Jack the car up to ensure its level- Some use jack stands up front and ramps in the rear
  • Remove drivers front tire/ wheel
  • Remove the the plastic inner fender well lining which is held in place with (2) 10mm screws on the bottom and snap-loc pins. To remove the snap-lox pins. use a small flat screw driver and pry up the center round cap till its raised- then pull the entire plug out of the hole. Do this for all of these until you can pull the liner out and bend it out of the way. I found I only needed to do this up to the very top of the fender- and that was sufficient.
  • Bend the plastic liner up and out and stuff it back in on the opposite side of the drivers hub/ brakes. Just to get it out of the way.
It should look like this- The plug is under red arrow



A closer look



From below looking Up




  • Always loosen the top "fill plug" 1st. If you can't take this off and drain the fluid out- you are screwed. I used the 10mm allen key with extra "umphhh" via the steel bar. Its on pretty tight.
  • Position drain pan under lower plug and remove plug using 10mm allen key and bar. Remember- this is hot fluid- be careful.
Lower Plug is here



  • Once all fluid has drained, replace crush washer on plug and reinstall plug with 10mm allen key. I torqued it with a decent amount based on how hard it was to remove. Don't go ape on it.
Note- I was surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetic- It had no metal particles built up as you would normally see on a 1st change



  • Remove fluid transfer pump from packaging and install lower intake hose to bottom of pump.
  • from the side- stuff the long exit hose up into the fill port. The hose will go in deeper if you angle it upwards to pass over the obstruction near the port hole. Wiggle the hose around until it finally goes in past the entrance
  • Install fluid pump into 1st quart of tranny fluid- this is where doing it from the side is so much easier.
  • Pump the fluid until its emptied the bottle- repeat with second bottle.
  • Some fluid should start to drip from bottom of fill hole which indicates the transmission is full. Allow to drain and then replace crush washer and reinstall fill plug.
  • Start car and watch plug areas for leaks- make sure its not in gear
  • Turn off car
  • Reinstall plastic fender liner with snap-lox pins and 10mm screws.
In the end, my iPhone wouldn't show what my eyes could see and that was the used fluid had a sheen of silver metal particles were still in suspension. While the amount wasn't alarming, it does indicate that these are better out of the transmission than floating around the gears. Fluids smell was similar to the stuff my wife Bimmer used (likely a slack wax similar in use to other ZF tranny fluids) and it did smell slightly burnt. The fluids color was very dark but somewhat translucent when thinned out.

Overall driving difference is remarkable. I used to commute 75+ miles daily and some was wide open 75 mph and some was bumper to bumper. The car started to make a gear wine through the last 5000 miles which is what prompted me to check into this. Im happy to report the sound is gone, the gears shift much smoother and the car seems to have less noise when downshifting/ higher RPMs.

For the cost (I spent way more than I should buying too much fluid)- its priced slightly higher than changing your motor oil with Royal Purple (Just did that too- Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with Natural gas plain sucks)

Hope that helps some out there
 

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Really glad to hear it made a difference. Amazing DIY write-up. Thank you for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No worries. I used to do write up DIY for the FJ Cruisers all the time to help others. Hope it helps.
 

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Very nice write up. I've had multiple people ask me about how I did mine and now I can just refer them to this! My change on my RS made a huge difference also. I had done mine by my 9k mile mark and it helped my smoothing out my shifts significantly. Only difference was I went with Redline 75w-90 with Shockproof.
 

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Thanks for writing up this DIY.

I plan on doing this next summer as I'm only at 7k miles. I don't drive the car much but I do drive it hard on occasion.

I definitely plan on replacing it with the Nissan fluid instead of redline as I don't want the dealer to point fingers if there's transmission problems down the line.

Glad to hear it helped with a whining noise and gear shift.
I think this tranny is notchy and hope when I do this next spring or summer it will help.
On my old BMW 335i I had it flushed at the dealer and the bill was crazy!

FYI it's not uncommon for there to be some shimmering metal on the first change as parts are breaking in.

Just finished helping my brother do a ATX trans flush on his versa and had the same shimmering metal.
It was the 2nd time it was changed and he had over 100k miles on it.

After we we changed it the transmission shifted buttery smooth.
He used High mileage ATX fluid as he's out of the warranty period.

Thankfully he purchased a funnel and we were able to fill it from the top with little issue.
*Note is is recommended to check the transmission fluid levels
while the car is running on a ATX.

and as mentioned when doing any fluid change you want the car to be level to ensure you're not over/under filling.

Also so plan on changing my drain plugs (engine oil and transmission fluid) with magnetic drain plugs to catch any metal and catching issues early on.
 

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Awesome Write Up. Thanks !!!
 

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Excuse my ignorance I am just learning to do this stuff myself as my money situation isn't great these days. Due to lack of space and equipment I must ask. Is it necessary to jack it up all 4 tires off the ground? My idea is to jack front drivers side remove wheel and lining, pull both plugs with pan under. Lower the car without the wheel to level it out and pump the new oil in with just single jack holding front drivers side up. I've done this to change my oil aswell. Any reason this wouldn't work?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Im just wondering if car being on the ground is considered level. I could understand that Jack stands on the frame on level ground would keep car level where as 3 wheels on suspension and 1 jack may not be level

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Excuse my ignorance I am just learning to do this stuff myself as my money situation isn't great these days. Due to lack of space and equipment I must ask. Is it necessary to jack it up all 4 tires off the ground? My idea is to jack front drivers side remove wheel and lining, pull both plugs with pan under. Lower the car without the wheel to level it out and pump the new oil in with just single jack holding front drivers side up. I've done this to change my oil aswell. Any reason this wouldn't work?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
You should be able to get to all the areas you need by just jacking the front of the car up. And yes, use jack stands if you are climbing under the car for any reason.
 

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You should be able to get to all the areas you need by just jacking the front of the car up. And yes, use jack stands if you are climbing under the car for any reason.
Well my concern is the car needs to be level when filling the transmission with new oil. So wondering if the car sitting on the ground while I'm pumping would be level enough

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Yes from what I have read. Pumping up on a jack is fine.
 

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Thanks for writing up this DIY.

I plan on doing this next summer as I'm only at 7k miles. I don't drive the car much but I do drive it hard on occasion.

I definitely plan on replacing it with the Nissan fluid instead of redline as I don't want the dealer to point fingers if there's transmission problems down the line.

Glad to hear it helped with a whining noise and gear shift.
I think this tranny is notchy and hope when I do this next spring or summer it will help.
On my old BMW 335i I had it flushed at the dealer and the bill was crazy!

FYI it's not uncommon for there to be some shimmering metal on the first change as parts are breaking in.

Just finished helping my brother do a ATX trans flush on his versa and had the same shimmering metal.
It was the 2nd time it was changed and he had over 100k miles on it.

After we we changed it the transmission shifted buttery smooth.
He used High mileage ATX fluid as he's out of the warranty period.

Thankfully he purchased a funnel and we were able to fill it from the top with little issue.
*Note is is recommended to check the transmission fluid levels
while the car is running on a ATX.

and as mentioned when doing any fluid change you want the car to be level to ensure you're not over/under filling.

Also so plan on changing my drain plugs (engine oil and transmission fluid) with magnetic drain plugs to catch any metal and catching issues early on.
Acid, did you end up picking up magnetic drain plugs? I'm getting setup to do my MT Fluid and was searching for a magnetic oil and transmission drain plug. I can find the oil plug but the transmission plug is more difficult to find.
 

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Excuse my ignorance I am just learning to do this stuff myself as my money situation isn't great these days. Due to lack of space and equipment I must ask. Is it necessary to jack it up all 4 tires off the ground? My idea is to jack front drivers side remove wheel and lining, pull both plugs with pan under. Lower the car without the wheel to level it out and pump the new oil in with just single jack holding front drivers side up. I've done this to change my oil aswell. Any reason this wouldn't work?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
I'm sure I'm too late to weigh in on this but I understood that all four wheel need to be off the ground an equal amount (if your on level ground).
Just notice what the OP wrote:


  • You need to get the car up in the air unless your are super skinny and can slide underneath. I use a QuickJack but the key here is the car needs to be level. If you lift the front, the back must be the same height. This is to make sure you can fill the tranny with the correct amount of fluid.
 

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So in searching through Google and looking at posted Service manuals, I had not seen anything for the 6MT Nismo RS as far as a transmission fluid change, where the plugs were and so on. Only pictures I did find were incorrect based off my car. Even though Nissan states this stuff can last 30K, Ive seen 1st hand what transmission fluids look like at their recommended change interval and its not pretty. After doing the service on my wife BMW 135i (stated "Lifetime" through BMW yet Shell who makes the oil, said 60K max), Im convinced these manuals are not always in the best interest of the car if your planning on keeping them. That being said- my car has 17K on it and was getting it transmission fluid changed and in the end- super easy and well worth it.


I did find the correct fluid and was surprised that my local Nissan Dealership argued with me that the fluid they use for all Jukes, is the standard formula. After showing the service tech the manual, he then said they had that in a larger drum and didn't sell it by the quart.... Thank god for Amazon.

Found both and even with a screw up on my part and ordering from another Nissan Dealership out of Dallas, TX, the cost to me with having Prime, really made sense to just buy it from Amazon. Also got the pump. So after looking at the whole operation, it can be done with access from the bottom of the car but it was so much easier to pump the new fluid in from the drivers side wheel well, I figured I would show that too. Additionally- the different dealerships that did ship the fluid seemed to not understand the conversion and one stated I needed (2) quarts while the other stated I needed (3). As stated before- i screwed up and accidentally ordered from both Amazon and the dealership so I now had (5) quarts. I will show you that you can do this with just (2) and save yourself a lot of money since this stuff must be magical and laced with fairy dust at $20 a quart.

Here is what it looked like when I tried to pump a 3rd bottle- the one on the right is the one I pumped from- got one pump and all of it dripped back out of the tranny. Save your money and fill the tranny with (2) quarts and your good



Basically if you can change your oil- you can do this and I found it immediately made the car run quieter, smoother and shifted much easier.

Tools-

Fluid-



Process-
  • You need to have the transmission up to at least 130 degrees so run it for a few minutes before starting. Don't run it for long as this stuff can burn so be careful.
  • Once you have your stuff and chose to do the easy refill route- loosen the front drivers side lug nuts.
  • Jack the car up to ensure its level- Some use jack stands up front and ramps in the rear
  • Remove drivers front tire/ wheel
  • Remove the the plastic inner fender well lining which is held in place with (2) 10mm screws on the bottom and snap-loc pins. To remove the snap-lox pins. use a small flat screw driver and pry up the center round cap till its raised- then pull the entire plug out of the hole. Do this for all of these until you can pull the liner out and bend it out of the way. I found I only needed to do this up to the very top of the fender- and that was sufficient.
  • Bend the plastic liner up and out and stuff it back in on the opposite side of the drivers hub/ brakes. Just to get it out of the way.
It should look like this- The plug is under red arrow



A closer look



From below looking Up




  • Always loosen the top "fill plug" 1st. If you can't take this off and drain the fluid out- you are screwed. I used the 10mm allen key with extra "umphhh" via the steel bar. Its on pretty tight.
  • Position drain pan under lower plug and remove plug using 10mm allen key and bar. Remember- this is hot fluid- be careful.
Lower Plug is here



  • Once all fluid has drained, replace crush washer on plug and reinstall plug with 10mm allen key. I torqued it with a decent amount based on how hard it was to remove. Don't go ape on it.
Note- I was surprised the drain plug wasn't magnetic- It had no metal particles built up as you would normally see on a 1st change



  • Remove fluid transfer pump from packaging and install lower intake hose to bottom of pump.
  • from the side- stuff the long exit hose up into the fill port. The hose will go in deeper if you angle it upwards to pass over the obstruction near the port hole. Wiggle the hose around until it finally goes in past the entrance
  • Install fluid pump into 1st quart of tranny fluid- this is where doing it from the side is so much easier.
  • Pump the fluid until its emptied the bottle- repeat with second bottle.
  • Some fluid should start to drip from bottom of fill hole which indicates the transmission is full. Allow to drain and then replace crush washer and reinstall fill plug.
  • Start car and watch plug areas for leaks- make sure its not in gear
  • Turn off car
  • Reinstall plastic fender liner with snap-lox pins and 10mm screws.
In the end, my iPhone wouldn't show what my eyes could see and that was the used fluid had a sheen of silver metal particles were still in suspension. While the amount wasn't alarming, it does indicate that these are better out of the transmission than floating around the gears. Fluids smell was similar to the stuff my wife Bimmer used (likely a slack wax similar in use to other ZF tranny fluids) and it did smell slightly burnt. The fluids color was very dark but somewhat translucent when thinned out.

Overall driving difference is remarkable. I used to commute 75+ miles daily and some was wide open 75 mph and some was bumper to bumper. The car started to make a gear wine through the last 5000 miles which is what prompted me to check into this. Im happy to report the sound is gone, the gears shift much smoother and the car seems to have less noise when downshifting/ higher RPMs.

For the cost (I spent way more than I should buying too much fluid)- its priced slightly higher than changing your motor oil with Royal Purple (Just did that too- Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with Natural gas plain sucks)

Hope that helps some out there
Superb writeup. Thank you for putting this together.
Do you have the part numbers for the replacement drain and fill plug gasket/seals?
My parts guy was a bit stupid. he tried to sell me 2 oil drain plug crush washers instead. I had to repeat a few times what I was looking for until he finally understood that Transmission does not mean engine, even though I was there buying tranny fluid. :grief:
After some searching he ordered what I hope is correct. After getting home I searched the part numbers online and 1 seems correct but the other looks like an oil drain plug, not sure if it's Tranny oil or Engine Oil.
For Reference here are my part numbers:
Fill plug gasket : 32105-00QAC
Drain Plug Gasket: 11026-00QAB
 

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This is one of the things I will be doing. My oil is most likely over 3.5 years old. Certainly cant hurt.
 

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Thanks for this, I'm gonna do mine shortly here. On my Z I used Redline MT-85 and had no issues, I notice for the Juke though it says that other brand fluid of the same viscosity can be used only temporarily, then swapped for the Nissan OEM stuff, I'm wondering why there are so adamant about this on the Juke? Surely, if anything, the Redline is going to outperform the OEM blend...

Did anyone end up finding the part number for a magnetic drain plug on this transmission?
 

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Thanks for this, I'm gonna do mine shortly here. On my Z I used Redline MT-85 and had no issues, I notice for the Juke though it says that other brand fluid of the same viscosity can be used only temporarily, then swapped for the Nissan OEM stuff, I'm wondering why there are so adamant about this on the Juke? Surely, if anything, the Redline is going to outperform the OEM blend...

Did anyone end up finding the part number for a magnetic drain plug on this transmission?
I dunno. I've been running Redline MT-85 for a year now, 15k miles and no issues. Still way smoother than the OEM fluid I changed out at 15k miles. Going today to swap for new fluid again today, again with Redline MT-85. I beat the piss out of my car at the track/autocross so this is a yearly thing for me.
 

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I dunno. I've been running Redline MT-85 for a year now, 15k miles and no issues. Still way smoother than the OEM fluid I changed out at 15k miles. Going today to swap for new fluid again today, again with Redline MT-85. I beat the piss out of my car at the track/autocross so this is a yearly thing for me.
That's good enough feedback for me, MT-85 again it is.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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That's good enough feedback for me, MT-85 again it is.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Went to go buy my MT-85 from the shop I went too last time and unfortunately they were sold out. Went with Motul 300 Gear oil since I've heard great things about them and sure enough, also great stuff. The notchiness that started to return as the redline oil got older went away again. Super smooth, buttery shifts are back. Slides in and out of gear no problem. I did go 75w-90 instead of 75w-85 but when warmed up, I think it is smoother than ever.

Just like Redline, it is a full esther base but this is a GL-4/GL-5 blend. Normally GL-5 is not a good thing for yellow metals but Motul has very limited EP in it that makes it safe to still run with yellow metals (brass synchros). The shop I bough it from is a full Nissan only shop that builds track cars for people. From drifting, to autocross and road course to drag cars. They say they use it in all their cars and never have once had an issue with it.

Anyways, when I run out of Redline 5w-30, I may give Motul a shot. They are also full Esther base and my seller has also offered to sell me Motul at a couple percent above cost which saves me about $15 per oil change comparing to paying retail of Redline oil. Also, met a friend who is an Amsoil dealer which I can also get at cost also so there's always that route that will save me some money. All 3 companies which are known for their VERY outstanding oils. Amsoil is just not esther base which I know Nissan motors love.
 
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