[mEberra]

What’s up guys I’m Michael. This is my very first Nissan and first ever turbo vehicle. I just recently bought a 2014 Nismo awd. It has 70,000 miles and had only 2 previous owners. I just love the style of this car. Ever since the first release I had to have one. In my past I’ve owned Hondas, and Toyotas. I’ve bolt on modded off of them. I’ll be looking to do the same with this one too.
This is my daily so I’m not looking to beat it up. So far from my research on the forum I’ll look into doing the CVT cooler, intercooler, exhaust. And would love to slap on the VF48 turbo in the feature. Though I’m a basic tool garage skilled guy. I know no other juke owners or shops local to me here in Kansas. I’m excited to learn as much as possible to keep my juke for for as long as possible without major problems.

 

[slcjuke]

Lmao that f'kin Katana has me dead.

Honestly man I say it time and time again. Do not mod a CVT Juke at all. Get an axle-back exhaust for it and call it a day. That transmission will give you nothing but absolute headache and disdain for your car.

You'll be hating yourself, the car, and life after modding that thing. I'm telling you...... do not do it.

I know you don't wanna hear it man but it's just the fact. That transmission can't even handle the stock power of the car reliably, let alone ecu tuning and turbo swaps.

That being said, the CVT cooler is always a good idea of done properly.

If you want reliability (which you say in this post) heed my warning, and everyone on this forum who has modded the CVT and do not do it.

 

[FastReligion]

Welcome!

CVT Cooler. Oil Feed Line. Maybe a Cat-Back.

If you want a bov noise, get an intake.

If you want toss an intercooler on it for better cooling.

But.

As mentioned above, do NOT modify a CVT juke for more power. Do all the bolt on's you want. BUT DO NOT GET IT TUNED FOR MORE POWER.

The vf48 system you reference was put together by me years ago. It is NOT A BOLT ON turbo. Idk why people think it is...its not.

My personal AWD CVT Juke is going on its 5th cvt in 20k miles at only 70k total miles. At 267 AWHP. Just keep that in mind when you think about modifying them.

I tuned a AWD CVT juke last month. Full bolt on car. ~110k miles. I warned the owner it was a really bad idea. I was actively trying to talk him out of spending $900 with me. He said he was fine with the risk and to do it anyway. That CVT started slipping before it even made 200 front wheel horsepower. It left on a tow truck. DON'T DO IT.

 

[mEberra]

Thanks for the input guys I really appreciate it. Definitely will take heed!

 

[KinKin]

I just have to post! Loved the Katana shifter but does it get in your way tho.?

And if you haven't done it yet, do a drain and fill on the CVT fluid!

Welcome!

 

[mEberra]

I just have to post! Loved the Katana shifter but does it get in your way tho.?

And if you haven't done it yet, do a drain and fill on the CVT fluid!

Welcome!

Lol thanks had to put it on. There was 3 different sizes…. I got the tallest one. Sitting in park it is kids in the way but driving it’s fine. You barely notice a difference.
Also the cvt fluid will be the very first thing I do. On to of the cooler. The car fax says the last owners keep a really good service record. But I wanna make sure it gets done

 

[JukeAholic]

What Im about to say is 10000% based in real facts...getting rid of that atrocious shifter will gain you at least 5000whp 😉.

 

[JukeAholic]

That was meant as a joke btw, some people on here get quite emotional when I post my sarcastic replies lol. If you enjoy the looks, go for it, its your car

 

[pboglio]

Baseline the CVT health by monitoring the fluid temperatures, clutch pack slippage, pushbelt slippage, DTC, etc.

You can purchase the CVTz50 software and get data on what the CVT is doing. Any odd signs such as loud whining, limp mode, rpm hunting, slippage, shift shock (park-to-drive), etc. will tell you a lot. If any of those symptoms are present save your money for the next transmission replacement and skip the mods. If it all looks good then basic bolt-ons would be OK but anything you do will reduce transmission reliability depending on the boost levels you plan on running. The external CVT cooler and AMSOIL would help if the transmission is currently in good health but it won't fix a failing CVT. Check the beehive oil filter and if it's clogged and grey with metallic debri it's going to tell you how bad the belt is wornout if it was never changed, same for the transmission pan magnets as they tend to get heavily loaded with metal shavings when the CVT is wearing out. Those things right there will visually give you a good idea how bad the CVT is if the owner never replaced those items. Just make decisions based on empirical data but generally if you drive responsibly and keep the boost low (i.e. 14-15 psi) I don't see why you can't add mods and enjoy the vehicle but know the risks of doing so and the current state of the vehicle.

 

[KinKin]

Baseline the CVT health by monitoring the fluid temperatures, clutch pack slippage, pushbelt slippage, DTC, etc.

You can purchase the CVTz50 software and get data on what the CVT is doing. Any odd signs such as loud whining, limp mode, rpm hunting, slippage, shift shock (park-to-drive), etc. will tell you a lot. If any of those symptoms are present save your money for the next transmission replacement and skip the mods. If it all looks good then basic bolt-ons would be OK but anything you do will reduce transmission reliability depending on the boost levels you plan on running. The external CVT cooler and AMSOIL would help if the transmission is currently in good health but it won't fix a failing CVT. Check the beehive oil filter and if it's clogged and grey with metallic debri it's going to tell you how bad the belt is wornout if it was never changed, same for the transmission pan magnets as they tend to get heavily loaded with metal shavings when the CVT is wearing out. Those things right there will visually give you a good idea how bad the CVT is if the owner never replaced those items. Just make decisions based on empirical data but generally if you drive responsibly and keep the boost low (i.e. 14-15 psi) I don't see why you can't add mods and enjoy the vehicle but know the risks of doing so and the current state of the vehicle.

When is the best time (mileage wise) to change the beehive oil filter? The CVT is in a good healthy condition right now.

 

[mEberra]

Baseline the CVT health by monitoring the fluid temperatures, clutch pack slippage, pushbelt slippage, DTC, etc.

You can purchase the CVTz50 software and get data on what the CVT is doing. Any odd signs such as loud whining, limp mode, rpm hunting, slippage, shift shock (park-to-drive), etc. will tell you a lot. If any of those symptoms are present save your money for the next transmission replacement and skip the mods. If it all looks good then basic bolt-ons would be OK but anything you do will reduce transmission reliability depending on the boost levels you plan on running. The external CVT cooler and AMSOIL would help if the transmission is currently in good health but it won't fix a failing CVT. Check the beehive oil filter and if it's clogged and grey with metallic debri it's going to tell you how bad the belt is wornout if it was never changed, same for the transmission pan magnets as they tend to get heavily loaded with metal shavings when the CVT is wearing out. Those things right there will visually give you a good idea how bad the CVT is if the owner never replaced those items. Just make decisions based on empirical data but generally if you drive responsibly and keep the boost low (i.e. 14-15 psi) I don't see why you can't add mods and enjoy the vehicle but know the risks of doing so and the current state of the vehicle.

from the sound of what your talking about I should automatically plan to save for a new transmission down the road with these cars . My Hondas and Toyotas all lasted over 300,000 mile. I’m guessing that won’t be the case with the juke. Also where’s the “be hive oil filter and is AMSOIL transmission fluid? I thought only certified Nissan CVT fluid was supposed to go in.

 

[Macgyver]

OEM fluid is good. Amsoil is better ? but not enough people have reported back with long term results. At the rate the CVTs fail. I would try Amsoil. How much sooner can the CVT fail. lol

 

[Macgyver]

When is the best time (mileage wise) to change the beehive oil filter? The CVT is in a good healthy condition right now.

If it was longer. It would be a great idea for the Zombies attacking.

 

[KinKin]

from the sound of what your talking about I should automatically plan to save for a new transmission down the road with these cars . My Hondas and Toyotas all lasted over 300,000 mile. I’m guessing that won’t be the case with the juke. Also where’s the “be hive oil filter and is AMSOIL transmission fluid? I thought only certified Nissan CVT fluid was supposed to go in.

This is that beehive filter: (31726)

 

[pboglio]

from the sound of what your talking about I should automatically plan to save for a new transmission down the road with these cars . My Hondas and Toyotas all lasted over 300,000 mile. I’m guessing that won’t be the case with the juke. Also where’s the “be hive oil filter and is AMSOIL transmission fluid? I thought only certified Nissan CVT fluid was supposed to go in.

North of 100k miles you will start hearing of more issues. Modded vehicle can fail the CVT at any time depending on mileage and when the mods were added. Mine was purchased new and modded at 12k miles and then at 60k miles I started noticing issues, by 70k miles I had to replace the valvebody cause of issues, by 80k miles the CVT failed catastrophically (failed clutch drum). Used car is a crapshoot thus you won't get a straight answer because there isn't one. Anyone buying an RS is going to tend to drive with a heavy foot, and (2) owner RS AWD/CVT would make me nervous with 70k miles. Thus all the checking/maintenance before even attempting mods would be my next move.

Decent chance of doing something about it now if you catch things early but whatever was done is done. The AMSOIL is a synthetic CVT fluid with improved formulation for reduced wear, shudder, higher torque capacity, et. KinKin posted the beehive location. The oil cooler 21606X I would also probably swap (Amazon or OEM or aftermarket) if the filter looked clogged as these cannot be cleaned out. I used the AMSOIL as a sort of transmission rebuild in a bottle and it'll stretch a CVT if it's partially failing to give you more time but ultimately I'd budget for a transmission replacement given your's is at higher mileage.