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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, I know this question has been asked many times over on this site and there are stickies pertaining to this particular topic however I’m having a hard time getting this to work. I just replaced my factory navigation radio which has the Rockford Fosgate audio. I installed an android head unit and got everything to work steering wheel control, factory backup camera, and all the speakers. However, I’m having an issue getting the factory amp to fire up amp and sub to fire up. I’ve gone all over the forum and even looked at Bargelds method however the wiring is not matching up. I found that when I reconnected the factory radio to the main harness the radio worked fine but the subwoofer did not fire up and then when I connected the second white 24 pin harness the factory radio the subwoofer fired up. So this leads me to believe that connector where the backup camera is also holds the wire for the sub and amp. My issue is I’m having a hard time identifying the correct wires. For example on the diagram it read that 30 and 31 should be a black and white wire however, I only have one black cable in pin 31 and I can’t find no white cable anywhere. Would any one have some insight because this is driving me bananas 🍌🍌🍌


2013 Juke SV with Nav and Rockford audio
7” Android Headunit
North America
 

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I'm assuming you already got to this sticky here, which illustrates all the same things you have stated:


It's been a while since I looked at that post, but as you may have noticed & figured out already, when referring to the first large image with the pin descriptions it refers to the "white 24 pin" harness and then pins 10 & 11 for subwoofer signal +/- which is actually labeled as 30 and 31 in the second large picture of the harnesses below it. So those are all the same/correct pins.

Edit: I had a whole thing typed out about the sub - neg being possibly grounded to chassis, but in re-reading your post, saw it was actually the WHITE + pos wire you say is missing. That wouldn't be grounded to chassis, so I deleted all my stuff.

All I can say is that it really should be there. You could try running your RCA all the way back to the amp and try splicing the signal +/- directly in there (maybe that's what you meant by a method I had suggested previously). That should definitely work, as it takes the harness signal wires out of the picture completely. Just annoying to run an RCA all the way back and splice there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You sir are a genius! I didn’t even think about running an RCA to the back considering I had three 17 foot RCA cables right in front of me LOL. I guess I just got stuck trying to find those cables on the harness that I didn’t even consider looking at other options like that. Now I understand why they hold you in such high regards on this website. I’m going in for round two within the next few hours and I’ll keep you guys posted. Thanks Bargeld 😀
 

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I am but a small cog in a big machine, lol. This forum has a lot of knowledgeable members, it's been great community. But thanks for the kind words, I hope that alternate method #3 works out for you! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Update: So I decided to take another look before running cables and I found that when I attached the blue cable And connected it to the amp cable from the head unit and the subwoofer started buzzing 😃. I still wasn’t able to hear any music or anything coming out of it however the buzzing sound gives me hope LOL. I went ahead and attach some pictures so you can see the blue cable I’m talking about and my wire harness. I hope I don’t have a European version of the car because the colors just don’t match up or maybe I’m going colorblind ha ha. The first picture is the blue cable coming from the 20 pin wire harness. The next two pictures are from the 20 pin harness and the last two are from the 24 pin harness.

190511
190516

190513
190514
190515
 

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Colors change, pin positions don't. Looks like the "blue" wire is on the aftermarket harness adapter. When referring to the wiring diagram/info (from my post above) the pin # and colors are always in reference to the oem side of the harness, the part plugging into the oem head unit directly.

From that point of reference, the "blue" wire appears to be at pin 1 on the "white 20 pin" harness... Meaning its the amp turn-on wire, per the wiring diagram in the link.

Also, it looks like the "white 24 pin" harness has the correct colored white/black wires in both pins 10/11 aka 30/31.

I think you need to re-orient yourself on how you are reading/counting the pin numbers and the direction of the harness. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Colors change, pin positions don't. Looks like the "blue" wire is on the aftermarket harness adapter. When referring to the wiring diagram/info (from my post above) the pin # and colors are always in reference to the oem side of the harness, the part plugging into the oem head unit directly.

From that point of reference, the "blue" wire appears to be at pin 1 on the "white 20 pin" harness... Meaning its the amp turn-on wire, per the wiring diagram in the link.

Also, it looks like the "white 24 pin" harness has the correct colored white/black wires in both pins 10/11 aka 30/31.

I think you need to re-orient yourself on how you are reading/counting the pin numbers and the direction of the harness. ;)
You’re absolutely right I think I may need to reevaluate how I’m reading the pin position because I think that’s what’s confusing me LOL. I’m assuming by the picture I
190517
attached below that these are the two wires that I’m looking for.You’re absolutely right I think I may need to reevaluate how I’m reading the pin position because I think that’s what’s confusing me LOL. I’m assuming by the picture I just attached below that these are the two wires that I’m looking for.
 

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I believe so, white rca signal +, black rca signal -

Also, the rca outside is - negative, the center is + positive.



👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I believe so, white rca signal +, black rca signal -

Also, the rca outside is - negative, the center is + positive.



👍
Awesome! So excited to go round 3 tomorrow 😃. So was the reason why my subwoofer was humming when I connected the blue cable to the amp lead on the head unit was because it was still missing the audio signal? And again thank you for your help with this I really appreciate the love in this community.
 

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Yeah, once the power was on, it was "playing" whatever signal it had. Since your harnesses appear to all be plugged in, chances are the raw leads were just grounding to something and humming. Even your finger on those input leads will probably get you some activity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, once the power was on, it was "playing" whatever signal it had. Since your harnesses appear to all be plugged in, chances are the raw leads were just grounding to something and humming. Even your finger on those input leads will probably get you some activity.
OK so I couldn’t wait until tomorrow and jumped right into it and success! Everything is working beautifully now thank you so so much!!!
 

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OK so I couldn’t wait until tomorrow and jumped right into it and success! Everything is working beautifully now thank you so so much!!!
Awesome !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good morning everyone, As I mentioned above I was able to get everything working but I have noticed a few strange quirks. Sometimes I can hear a low humming sound coming from the subwoofer and whenever I turn the car off the subwoofer makes a popping sound. Any ideas what may be causing that? Maybe is it a grounding situation? Should I ground everything to the chassie of the car rather than to the harness as as I did? Or do you guys have any other suggestions that I should maybe look at?
 

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Always best to ground to chassis.

Hum is usually a sign of a ground loop, meaning that the audio signal is the least resistive path to ground, instead of the actual ground. So yeah try grounding the head somewhere else. The curious part to me is the "sometimes" that you mentioned. If it's truly sometimes and not other times, than it could be a bad splice/connection.

As far as pops on turn on, thats a head unit thing. Google that one, as you might be limited with a fix there. Mainly you are looking for a setting in the head that does a delayed signal out. The prob is that the head turn on is telling the amp to fire up immediately, then the head goes through the preamp stages of things,and when it turns on the signal out, it gets a pop. The ground might fix this, but if not, delaying the signal turn on or the amp turn-on might be the only real solution. Or maybe hard wiring a switch/relay to turn the sub amp on/off manually (manually delay its turn on). Or maybe even turn your sub signal output on the head unit way down before turning the system off.

Edit: Dammit, i went back and reread and I misunderstood you again, you said pop when turning off. Hopefully fixing ground will fix that too. I'm gomna leave the rest of my stuff in the mesaage even tho it is oriented towards turn-on. Some of it is still applicable and might help. Otherwise:

Pops and hums are either real easy or real hard to fix 8(
 

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Bargeld should be spot on. The fix for the pop/hum should fix everything that isnt going as planned.
 
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