[pboglio]

I posted an update to my CVT rebuild thread.

Pretty good read if your interested.

CVT Replacement & Upgrade

Here's a suggestion. You can order SKF 33206/Q for $55.58 from Motionindustries.com. That is a 30/62/25mm bearing and needs slight modification. The other bearing is direct fitment SKF 32206 for $29.30 on Amazon.com which is the 30/62/21.25mm bearing, you can reuse your existing shim...

www.jukeforums.com

 

[KinKin]

CVT failures are overblown on stock/well maintained Jukes.
It would kill me to drive under 4,000 rpms, holy crap.
Live life man, enjoy that RS.

I'd recommend the following:

• Do not modify the engine/tune or add typical bolt-ons
• Never drive hard when engine/transmission is cold
• Never eliminate the CVT cooler thermostat
• Absolutely never brake torque launch....ever...not even once
• Limit the launches but if you must launch do it from idle
• Change the CVT oil every 15k miles
• Replace the beehive oil filter cartridge every 30k miles
• Replace the oil pump sump filter every 30k miles
• Clean the oil pan magnets every 30k miles
• Check the CVT oil level often, keep it between the hash marks when HOT
• Switch to AMSOIL CVT fluid as quickly as possible
• Install a Rogue CVT cooler kit (4 port beehive, external oil cooler, European Juke air duct (hard to find), mtg brkts, etc.)

I'd bet with those changes you easily get +120,000 miles if you start now.
I'll be following this advice shortly on my rebuilt CVT transmission, except the modded part of course.

Thank-you! This should be a sticky!

The CVT oil, I got that taken care of. I've done it 3 times already since I own the car.

On my next oil change I will talk to the dealer and see how much they would do the following:

• Replace the beehive oil filter cartridge
• Replace the oil pump sump filter

Modifying and driving hard (and occasional checking the CVT oil) should not be a problem for me.

I will look into the rogue beehive cooler kit for sure.

 

[slcjuke]

Thank-you! This should be a sticky!

The CVT oil, I got that taken care of. I've done it 3 times already since I own the car.

On my next oil change I will talk to the dealer and see how much they would do the following:

• Replace the beehive oil filter cartridge
• Replace the oil pump sump filter

Modifying and driving hard (and occasional checking the CVT oil) should not be a problem for me.

I will look into the rogue beehive cooler kit for sure.

To be honest you don't even need the cooler unless you're having cooling issues.

If you're regularly changing the deteriorated fluid out you're good.

Of course the cooler isn't going to hurt anything and will probably increase the life of the trans because it keeps the fluid from breaking down as fast but like I said, if you're changing it out regularly who knows

 

[pboglio]

My overheating issues were almost 100% related to clogged oil filters & poor oil quality (not changed often). Having said that I'm a big proponent of installing a factory cooling upgrade like the Rogue as it's designed as a system by Nissan. Many owners completely fixed their CVT issues installing them.

The Rogue external oil/air cooler is just assisting the Beehive (Rogue 4-port) oil/water cooler while the CVT thermostat is there to get the temps up quickly on the CVT. For most people even with moderate mods and heavy driving loads it would be perfectly fine if installed correctly. Because the oil flow is now splitting between Rogue oil/air cooler and the Rogue Beehive, this is really an oil FLOW BALANCE problem and potentially why people have issues with different type setups. You want to balance the oil flow thus the Rogue cooler get's some cooling done while the Beehive is doing some and they are both utilized to 100% of their capacity. But their capacity are not equal by a long shot.

What I read about the CVT cooling requirements changed my mind about external coolers. The internal clutches really are oil starved for cooling and their life can get extended dramatically with good oil FLOW and cooling. The CVT belt needs clean oil flow to flush debri to prevent damage, but also cooling as it keeps the belt steel temper and strength high and greatly reduces wear.

So improved cooling and oil flow can reduce internal CVT wear which is primarily the driving force behind the failures. Over-cooling is a problem as it mainly starves the oil pump of flow and this tears up the CVT something fierce. That's why I recommend keeping the CVT thermostat in place.