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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I'll try to be as concise as I can but this might be a long post. I appreciate anyone that chimes in on this.

Over the past year I've been toying with the idea of getting rid of my car. This idea became more of a reality with this absurd used car market and resale values being obscenely high.

At the time of writing, I can confidently sell this vehicle directly to a dealer for a little over $19,000 USD..... picked up no questions asked, and this is an extremely attractive thing for me right now for anyone who has been keeping up with my Juke woes over the years.

However, I have a slight morality issue:

I'm 90% certain my CVT is toast and on its way out but my car is drivable (and no dealer will know how bad it is especially considering the problems really rear their ugly head when the car is cold. They would never be able to tell on a short test drive around the block which is all they would to it at best). Car has no codes.

Unfortunately I'm having a hard time selling a Junker car that I know is going to need $3-4k in repairs and would hate to have someone buy this car. Maybe the car goes to auction? In which case I would feel less bad.

Another issue I'm having is the fact that it's tuned and you the boost controller needs to match the tune profile or engine = kaboom! This is an issue for me because (this is going to sound stupid as hell but you car guys probably know this feeling) I do have sentimental value over this vehicle and would hate to get rid of it and have someone just blow the engine up or something immediately after all the care I've given it over the years.

Essentially I have a few options:

1. Have a mechanic give me an official diagnosis (I've already tested pretty much everything myself except for looking at CVT datalogs) This is why I haven't taken the car in yet because I already pretty much know it's the transmission.

2. Take my carbon fiber hood/lip/wheels off and just trade it in and let it be someone else's problem

3. Fix the transmission and keep driving it

I never thought this car would be so difficult for me to get rid of but I love the damn thing and would want it to go to someone who would take care of it lol but at the end of the day it's just some stupid car and this decision is very hard for me to come to.

Another issue I'm having is it seems Nissan doesn't even make new transmissions for this thing anymore and everything is a reman unit. I don't want to do that and there seems to be no other options for this platform at this point.

Essentially I'm left with a car that I can't drive to its potential...... it might as well be a toyota corolla which is more comfortable to ride lol.

Anyway..... might be missing a few things here but that's the gist of the story..... Am I a bad person if i just get rid of this thing and let it be someone else's headache?

Guess I just wanted some opinions as I haven't decided what I'm doing to do yet

Thanks for anyone chiming in
 

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Honestly if you have feelings for the juke then keep it, a reman Trans cost about $5-6k installed and with some love will last over 3yrs. If you really can't pass up the deal then part out what you can , sell it to the dealer and let them be responsible for not doing the due diligence and inspecting the car properly. If it makes you feel better whoever buys the car after you would have to be a fool not to get some kind of extended warranty or something to give them peace of mind.
 

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Alot of people get rid of cars because they know there is a problem. When you buy a used car your rolling the dice if any one buying a used car hasn't figured that out by now I don't know what else to say.

Being a "car person" I do understand how you feel about dropping a time bomb off to someone else, shitty thing to do.

If you don't mind putting in the time and effort to build it back up I'd keep it.

Personally being an older guy and not having the energy like I use to to start and finish projects I would sell it and start fresh.
 

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Im sure theres a dedicated member on here who is building a semi bullet proof cvt and he has hinted that he may do more. Ask him for a member price on a rebuild. Easiest and best way to keep your awesome work in the garage for many years more fun. Just a thought 👍
 

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If you sell to a dealer, they have the resources to fix at a reasonable price. Dealers can deal with a lemon, I have no moral issues with handing over a questionable car to them. Take the deal and run.

If you sell to a private party and NOT disclose the potential issues... well, you know what you are doing and YOU have to sleep at night with that.
I wouldn't sell to a private party with out disclosing. If you can get that much just knock off the cost of the work and let the next person deal with it.

What I have learned about cars is that they come and go. If you don't don't have the time, money, and resources then its best to move on, otherwise it will be a money pit and/or paper weight just sitting. If you have a plan, a budget, money, and a time line that is a different story.

Don't let a car put your life on hold.
 

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When a dealer is trying to sell a car (new or used) they are trying to make as much money as they can. They run through hundreds, thousands of cars and morality is not part of the equation. When you sell or trade to the dealer, now it is your turn to get as much money as you can. As mentioned, they not only have the resources to handle it, they also have all the avenues and escape routes built in. They don't need a lemon law to protect them because they are making money off the cars they sell and the cars they buy. The law of numbers takes care of them because they are a business.

Also, I would guess that at least 1 out 3 cars that get sold or traded to a dealer are in in the same boat as you. People trade their cars in when they expect a costly repair. Most of them aren't enthusiasts and have no clue what is actually wrong or the value of the repair needed. The dealer makes money off that too.

Do what is the best for you, but honestly, cars come and go. Your car could get plowed by a semi in a parking lot or stolen on a flatbed truck. Cars are temporary.

Btw... I'm in the same boat as you. Except I expect $600-$1000 in repair cost right now. I say trade it for as much as possible in the current market. You don't have any obligation to disclose things you think might be a problem, otherwise no one would ever trade up.

If you really, really have morality issues. Trade it for whatever lets you sleep at night. Set your own price.
 

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The problem to me is what you would get for a new car ?

A new CVT installed is not that much money compared to a new car so to speak. You know how to drive one now and take care of it. So it would last longer.

There is not much out there that compares to the Juke atm.

Mazda has a turbo CX3 coming.

Hyundai has some model N's coming. The Santa Cruz is pretty cool for a swiss army knife vehicle.
 

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Slcjuke,

Sorry to see that you might be selling your wild RS CVT. There are few guys that have pushed the CVT platform as far as you have for as long as you have & still your hanging in there. Your posts and contributions are gonna be missed but hopefully you stick around the forums either way with your vehicle decision.

The dilema you're facing I sort of faced at one point. I haven't found anything as fun to drive to replace it. The Corrola GR is possibly that car but I'm 2-3 years out from even wanting to do a trade in if it comes to that point. That car will be pushing +$40k loaded so a hot rodded Juke AWD CVT is going to be a pretty good stand-in for it. Morally you have to do what you feel is right for yourself. I personally could not push a potentially failing vehicle onto another owner. Especially a younger owner who is going to be so excited to be getting into a nice low mileage RS. Sometimes reputation is worth more than money but maybe there is a middle ground solution to that problem.

Hopefully you take your time to figure out what works best for you.
 

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Im sure theres a dedicated member on here who is building a semi bullet proof cvt and he has hinted that he may do more. Ask him for a member price on a rebuild. Easiest and best way to keep your awesome work in the garage for many years more fun. Just a thought 👍
Ausjuk33,

I'm hoping to try and help out where I can, nothing official yet. I've been quiet lately on the forums & my build(s) but the engine build is nearly complete and the CVT requires a few last minute quick upgrades and it'll be done shortly. Been a bit swamped at work with drivetrain development on a new NPD project (not automotive related). The lack of new CVT availability was my biggest fear and it's now officially happened for both the 1st & 2nd gen Jukes. Having said that, rebuilding a failed or reman unit is more of a challenge than upgrading a new CVT but it's still very doable so hope shouldn't be lost by any means.

Couple of CVT areas I will be addressing in the future beyond what I've currently done are:

1) CVT oil cooling system (Laminova water/oil cooler for track/heavy street use)
2) CVT oil pump starvation under moderate/high-g load cornering
3) Reinforced/larger 4-gear planetary hub carrier (long term project but not critical).
4) Rear differential torque vectoring active oil cooling (i.e. similar to the Mishimoto Ford Focus RS setup).

These are typically weak points on the Juke but also on the Nissan GTR getrag DSG and the Ford Focus RS when tracking. These mods would be of interest to our Auto-x or Road Racing junkies where I think an AWD CVT would potentially shine with some remediation. For a street driven Juke this might be overkill but I drive my cars fairly hard and I've broken so many transmission that I've lost count.

Actually I was hoping Lars with his Rally Juke would have stuck with the Juke AWD CVT platform as I believe a CVT in manual shift mode (i.e. sequential shifting) or CVT mode would be superior to a 6-speed manual just like the sequential gear shift systems are superior in most rally to standard manual transmission. The Juke AWD w/CVT and torque vectoring is a highly under-rated platform. I'm not saying it'll equal an EVO X or Nissan GTR DSG but I do prefer it over a manual transmission in most cases. Subaru are really getting close with their CVT "performance" transmission and during development of their 2022 WRX used the VW GTI DSG and Porsche PDK systems as performance benchmarks.

Just throwing this out there in case anyone is giving up hope on these Juke platforms. Not trying to sway anyone to keep or sell their AWD Juke but I plan on driving my Juke AWD like my other performance vehicles and this is how I'm going to go about doing that.
 
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Ausjuk33,

I'm hoping to try and help out where I can, nothing official yet. I've been quiet lately on the forums & my build(s) but the engine build is nearly complete and the CVT requires a few last minute quick upgrades and it'll be done shortly. Been a bit swamped at work with drivetrain development on a new NPD project (not automotive related). The lack of new CVT availability was my biggest fear and it's now officially happened for both the 1st & 2nd gen Jukes. Having said that, rebuilding a failed or reman unit is more of a challenge than upgrading a new CVT but it's still very doable so hope shouldn't be lost by any means.

Couple of CVT areas I will be addressing in the future beyond what I've currently done are:

1) CVT oil cooling system (Laminova water/oil cooler for track/heavy street use)
2) CVT oil pump starvation under moderate/high-g load cornering
3) Reinforced/larger 4-gear planetary hub carrier (long term project but not critical).
4) Rear differential torque vectoring active oil cooling (i.e. similar to the Mishimoto Ford Focus RS setup).

These are typically weak points on the Juke but also on the Nissan GTR getrag DSG and the Ford Focus RS when tracking. These mods would be of interest to our Auto-x or Road Racing junkies where I think an AWD CVT would potentially shine with some remediation. For a street driven Juke this might be overkill but I drive my cars fairly hard and I've broken so many transmission that I've lost count.

Actually I was hoping Lars with his Rally Juke would have stuck with the Juke AWD CVT platform as I believe a CVT in manual shift mode (i.e. sequential shifting) or CVT mode would be superior to a 6-speed manual just like the sequential gear shift systems are superior in most rally to standard manual transmission. The Juke AWD w/CVT and torque vectoring is a highly under-rated platform. I'm not saying it'll equal an EVO X or Nissan GTR DSG but I do prefer it over a manual transmission in most cases. Subaru are really getting close with their CVT "performance" transmission and during development of their 2022 WRX used the VW GTI DSG and Porsche PDK systems as performance benchmarks.

Just throwing this out there in case anyone is giving up hope on these Juke platforms. Not trying to sway anyone to keep or sell their AWD Juke but I plan on driving my Juke AWD like my other performance vehicles and this is how I'm going to go about doing that.
Exactly 🙆‍♂️🙆‍♂️ very hard to change, once u "drive it" not just steer, the juke is awesome. And the brains trust we have on here will keep my juke driving for a very long time. Long enough til i can afford the electric motor n batteries conversion. If u can afford to keep it and want to. do it. If you want the money give it to the dealer. No problems. Either way the forum is here for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the great responses here from everyone!

I'm still in the debate stage. I was actually thinking of getting a Suzuki Samurai but come to think of it a lifted juke would be cool and drive way better......

I bought this car and had aspirations for it in my early 20's and now I'm on the bad end of 20 and I just don't value the build as much as I used to especially with all the drawbacks.

Maybe I take the build another direction? A lifted juke with big meaty tires perhaps? lol

Also @pboglio if you are down sometime I would love to troubleshoot with you and get confirmation with some CVT datalogs perhaps? Let me know if you would be interested in helping me out on that front.

Thanks all and continue to keep chiming in on this thread if you're so inclined
 

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Slcjuke,

Definitely, just PM me the datalogs and we can review it.
Cheers.

Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Slcjuke,

Definitely, just PM me the datalogs and we can review it.
Cheers.

Gene
Alright I'll try to get some datalogs to you soon

I appreciate the help sir
 

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Hey everyone,

I'll try to be as concise as I can but this might be a long post. I appreciate anyone that chimes in on this.

Over the past year I've been toying with the idea of getting rid of my car. This idea became more of a reality with this absurd used car market and resale values being obscenely high.

At the time of writing, I can confidently sell this vehicle directly to a dealer for a little over $19,000 USD..... picked up no questions asked, and this is an extremely attractive thing for me right now for anyone who has been keeping up with my Juke woes over the years.

However, I have a slight morality issue:

I'm 90% certain my CVT is toast and on its way out but my car is drivable (and no dealer will know how bad it is especially considering the problems really rear their ugly head when the car is cold. They would never be able to tell on a short test drive around the block which is all they would to it at best). Car has no codes.

Unfortunately I'm having a hard time selling a Junker car that I know is going to need $3-4k in repairs and would hate to have someone buy this car. Maybe the car goes to auction? In which case I would feel less bad.

Another issue I'm having is the fact that it's tuned and you the boost controller needs to match the tune profile or engine = kaboom! This is an issue for me because (this is going to sound stupid as hell but you car guys probably know this feeling) I do have sentimental value over this vehicle and would hate to get rid of it and have someone just blow the engine up or something immediately after all the care I've given it over the years.

Essentially I have a few options:

1. Have a mechanic give me an official diagnosis (I've already tested pretty much everything myself except for looking at CVT datalogs) This is why I haven't taken the car in yet because I already pretty much know it's the transmission.

2. Take my carbon fiber hood/lip/wheels off and just trade it in and let it be someone else's problem

3. Fix the transmission and keep driving it

I never thought this car would be so difficult for me to get rid of but I love the damn thing and would want it to go to someone who would take care of it lol but at the end of the day it's just some stupid car and this decision is very hard for me to come to.

Another issue I'm having is it seems Nissan doesn't even make new transmissions for this thing anymore and everything is a reman unit. I don't want to do that and there seems to be no other options for this platform at this point.

Essentially I'm left with a car that I can't drive to its potential...... it might as well be a toyota corolla which is more comfortable to ride lol.

Anyway..... might be missing a few things here but that's the gist of the story..... Am I a bad person if i just get rid of this thing and let it be someone else's headache?

Guess I just wanted some opinions as I haven't decided what I'm doing to do yet

Thanks for anyone chiming in
I few years back I sold a 6.0 ford to a friend of mine that wasn't running right. I told him the truth about it and what I need to get for it. He runs it a little bit but it's not completely fixed. I hope that some day it will be but it is a ford 6.0 truck so the odds are against it. My point is I didn't hide anything not by telling him. I warn him that they are hard get or keep running right. I got some money for it without screwing anybody over. So I would recommend you or anybody do the same or fix it right but keep in mind that if you do that it's going to cost you more then it's worth from a business stand point. By the way just because some dealers screw people over doesn't mean we should.
 

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Kinda sorta had a similar problem, without the high resale value though.

Back in 2012 my 97 Mitsu Eclipse AWD GSX 5spd had a transmission issue but was still driveable. Parked it for about 2-3 years and figured I'd repair the transmission and either drive it or sell it. Car had +400 w.h.p. and weighed in maybe 3,000 lbs so it was a complete rocket, like small displacement sport bike fast. This is before DSG or AWD were common or Teslas roamed the streets and right before the factory horsepower wars got into full swing. Fast enough that even with AWD I was getting a little bit scared of going WOT on public roads. Mostly just crotch rockets at that time were what I would race. Transmission was fully upgraded and built and I was running the 3rd or 4th upgraded built transmission at that point since it would eat transmissions for breakfast. I was typically getting about 5,000 to 15,000 miles per transmission and I would rarely ever launch it as the torque would just shatter 3rd or 4th gear from a roll. For that car I was at a crossroads of being fully maxxed out on the stock engine without rebuilding it and was close to switching to a straight cut gear racing transmission or potentially a sequential racing setup. So we are talking a massive expensive rebuild project I just wasn't ready for at that time.

Anyway, the last failure I suspect the aftermarket clutch threw a spring and punched a hole in the transmission case....or something but it would still drive just with a rattle. I also suspected the crankshaft "walked", so things were looking bleak at that point for the engine too. I got so disgusted I parked it thinking I'd drop the transmission at some point and repair it. When I got my lazy butt over to look at the car 3-4 years later the starter had seized up so I couldn't even fire it back up to attempt to restore it. When I looked under the car there was a pile of rust debri around the perimeter of the vehicle from sitting outside exposed for so long. At that point I saw the writing on the wall and realized the car was done and I gave up on it. Sometimes you gotta walk away. The exterior and interior was immaculate but Mitsubishi used some really poor quality steel that rusted like nothing else. The shock towers had rusted completely thru and the door sills were completely rotted from the inside out. That was a big safety issue since the suspension loads the chassis thru that location. From that point I decided to strip the car and partout every last aftermarket part I could that was in good sale-able condition. Called a tow truck and they maybe gave me $20 after lying about paying me more because they saw I stripped the car down before they got there.....damn right I did lol. Point was I wouldn't sell the chassis to anyone for any price and those cars are rare now especially the AWD versions. If I was smart I'd have stripped the interior and seats since those were absolutely mint. What I could have made off that interior nowadays but I wasn't thinking about it back then. Could have parted out the transfer case and rear differential & axles and subframe but didn't think about it at the time and maybe someone could have converted a clean chassis FWD to an AWD.

Anyhow, point was I was going to have a trick of a time selling a vehicle with a disentegrating chassis but I suppose I could have and someone would have bought it. Even with full disclosure I just refused to sell it to anyone. When I found out I just called the tow truck to have it crushed and it was bittersweet watching it leave on the back of a flatbed. At the time a 97 GSX KBB value was maybe $3,000 in decent shape. Now they are so rare guys are asking $15,000 to $20,000 for AWD versions in clean condition. So things have definitely changed.

So SLCJuke, I can sympathize about losing interest in vehicles but you gotta do what you gotta do in the general sense. Sometimes that journey ends and people move on. I moved on and bought the Juke as a daily driver and later got into the EVO scene after many years of delaying it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update for anyone that is interested:

A new transmission is on the way and the SLCJuke will live another day

Huzzah
 

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Update for anyone that is interested:

A new transmission is on the way and the SLCJuke will live another day

Huzzah
Is that mean you are keeping the car? :)

Little late to the game, I was sort of in a similar situation you had.

We bought the 15's RS CVT (w/ 11k miles) 4 yrs ago and now the car have around 35k miles (already done 2 CVT drain and fill at the dealer.)

A few months ago I was contemplating about trading the RS in (the value of the car was the same amount we purchased it 4 yrs ago!) Anyway the reason being was the longevity of the CVT (they don't manufacture this CVT anymore?) really worries me.

Reading post after post about failed CVT, it scares me whenever I rev'd the rpm pass over 4k. (which I hardly do anymore)

What I'm trying to say is, I love the car but not enjoying the fullest of it. I hope that make sense.

Yes, I still have the car now and I'm planning to keep it long as I can or until maybe..a Kona N AWD ever comes out..;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dude if your Juke is stock and you're maintaining it that well then you're fine. At stock power with good maintenance the transmission should have no issues holding up for 60k miles or more eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeasily.

On a side note: Apparently they really DO NOT make new trans anymore. You legit have to buy a reman. I just got my order cancelled.....

Eyebrow Rectangle Font Parallel Slope


Well....... ****...... lol
 
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CVT failures are overblown on stock/well maintained Jukes.
It would kill me to drive under 4,000 rpms, holy crap.
Live life man, enjoy that RS.

I'd recommend the following:

  • Do not modify the engine/tune or add typical bolt-ons
  • Never drive hard when engine/transmission is cold
  • Never eliminate the CVT cooler thermostat
  • Absolutely never brake torque launch....ever...not even once
  • Limit the launches but if you must launch do it from idle
  • Change the CVT oil every 15k miles
  • Replace the beehive oil filter cartridge every 30k miles
  • Replace the oil pump sump filter every 30k miles
  • Clean the oil pan magnets every 30k miles
  • Check the CVT oil level often, keep it between the hash marks when HOT
  • Switch to AMSOIL CVT fluid as quickly as possible
  • Install a Rogue CVT cooler kit (4 port beehive, external oil cooler, European Juke air duct (hard to find), mtg brkts, etc.)

I'd bet with those changes you easily get +120,000 miles if you start now.
I'll be following this advice shortly on my rebuilt CVT transmission, except the modded part of course.
 
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