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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my girlfriend is having trouble with her car. Most of the time when she drives to work, she’ll only spend about 45 minutes driving. When she drives more than an hour and a half(ish), she has a couple intermittent issues.

The most common issue is that when using cruise control and occasionally even without cruise control, the cars RPMs will start to bounce up and down about 250-500. So you could be cruising at around 2750 and it might start bouncing between 2500 and 2750 rhythmatically. If I cancel cruise control or take my foot off the gas and coast for a second before applying the gas again, the problem seems to go away and might not come back again for the rest of the drive or it might come back again soon after within a couple minutes.

The second issue is closer to a loss of power. Same thing as the first issue where it won’t really happen on a normal day of driving to and from work but it’ll happen on longer trips. The car will be cruising along fine and then suddenly will lose power and I won’t be able to accelerate uphill. I can maintain speed on flat areas and gain some speed back on the downhill sections but the car won’t go above 3000 RPMs. I’ve tried switching between Normal, Sport, and Eco mode but that doesn’t help. I’ve also tried coasting for a bit while switching modes and it still doesn’t help. It will keep this problem until I pull over, turn the car off, and wait a couple minutes. If I turn the car off and turn it back on after a short time of about 30 seconds, the problem will still be there.

Some other information:
The car doesn’t seem to be overheating. The temperature on the dash is halfway between cold and hot even when having these issues.

It almost seems like an electrical issue because it happens more often with cruise control being used. I’m not sure if the rhythm of the RPMs bouncing would be a sign of mechanical or electrical though. I’m also leaning towards electrical because it happens after driving longer than usual distances. Maybe the heat from the engine is causing a connector to lose connection or something. I’m just throwing out my ideas but I have no clue where to look. I thought maybe something to do with a throttle control assembly or something like that maybe. I don’t know if this car is drive by wire or not but I’m assuming it is with the different drive modes.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, sorry if I posted in the wrong part of the forum. I wasn’t sure if it was engine or CVT related or not.
 

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RPM bouncing is, with an almost 100% certainty, the CVT transmission dying.

Sounds like it is "ratio hunting" due to physical wear in the trans. Could be fluid related so depending on when/if the fluid was changed could be a solution.
 
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Agree with @slcjuke to change the fluid at least twice (a hundred miles or so between fluid changes) and see how the CVT does after that. But most likely the CVT has already been damaged and a fluid change will be just a short term crutch.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick replies. I’ll try changing the fluid. The car has 151k miles on it and was bought used so I don’t have a record of the fluid changes or anything. If the CVT is dying, is that something worth replacing for the car or is it basically totaled once it stops?
 

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Thanks for the quick replies. I’ll try changing the fluid. The car has 151k miles on it and was bought used so I don’t have a record of the fluid changes or anything. If the CVT is dying, is that something worth replacing for the car or is it basically totaled once it stops?
Depends. New Trans is going to run $3-4$ installed unless you get a junkyard trans.

The issue right now is good luck finding a remanufactured transmission or a new transmission. Apparently shops cant even get them in stock
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Depends. New Trans is going to run $3-4$ installed unless you get a junkyard trans.

The issue right now is good luck finding a remanufactured transmission or a new transmission. Apparently shops cant even get them in stock
Gotcha. This car also has the option of using it in “manual” mode where you slide the gear selector over and then can push it up and down to select the gear that the car is in. Would that help at all when we’re having these issues? For example, could I downshift manually to force the CVT to use a different section of the transmission?

Im not 100% sure on how you’re even able to shift manually with a CVT which is why I’m asking. I know when my Honda Civic had a problem with 5th gear I could just use 4th gear instead and avoid the issue until I brought it into the dealer.
 

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the limp mode from a CVT is from CVT temp usually. Manumatic does not fix this. at 150+k miles, the CVT will need to be replaced 99% of the time when it does this. I did a CVT on a juke last week, Nissan told me the trans was on back-order, but it showed up 4 days later. Same thing happened with an engine bearing order I had placed. Nissan claims a lot of stuff is on back-order, when in reality it is just in a further away warehouse and they want to buy time to get it shipped as cheap as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the limp mode from a CVT is from CVT temp usually. Manumatic does not fix this. at 150+k miles, the CVT will need to be replaced 99% of the time when it does this. I did a CVT on a juke last week, Nissan told me the trans was on back-order, but it showed up 4 days later. Same thing happened with an engine bearing order I had placed. Nissan claims a lot of stuff is on back-order, when in reality it is just in a further away warehouse and they want to buy time to get it shipped as cheap as possible.
You wouldn’t happen to be in North Carolina would you? Lol
 

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You wouldn’t happen to be in North Carolina would you? Lol
no haha just south of Boston. Though I do have several Jukes here from that area haha

I have a friend of mine in Charlotte who is a Master Tech who does side work. I am sure he would do a swap, just have to ask him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no haha just south of Boston. Though I do have several Jukes here from that area haha

I have a friend of mine in Charlotte who is a Master Tech who does side work. I am sure he would do a swap, just have to ask him.
If you’re serious about that, do you mind if I hit you up once we decide how we want to move forward? I’ll probably call around to a couple places if we move forward with a swap to check prices but it’s always good having an extra place to check in with.
 

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I had about 40k miles including 3 fluid changes from the first time I was thrown into limp mode until it blew up at 120k. Whether the fluid change helps or not, you're prob looking at a trans shortly down the road.
 

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If you’re serious about that, do you mind if I hit you up once we decide how we want to move forward? I’ll probably call around to a couple places if we move forward with a swap to check prices but it’s always good having an extra place to check in with.
I reached out to him and he does not want to do that big of a job outside of where he works...sorry.
 
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