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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning to move cross country, and am deciding if I should sell all of my stuff or attempt to tow a small uhaul trailer with my 2011 Juke... it's a 30+ hour drive through the mountains in Colorado and the deserts and heat in Utah and Nevada. Not only have I never towed anything, but the transmission also went out on my Juke last month. It was under warranty so it has a brand new one, but it still makes me nervous. Anyone ever towed that far with their Juke before? I'm reading a lot of very mixed advice for both sides and having a hard time reaching a solid answer. Thanks!
 

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You didn't mention manual/CVT/AWD/FWD.

I towed AWD/CVT with 6x12 uhaul empty from NC to IL and then back, full. In winter, Thanksgiving time. No problems.
 

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You didn't mention manual/CVT/AWD/FWD.

I towed AWD/CVT with 6x12 uhaul empty from NC to IL and then back, full. In winter, Thanksgiving time. No problems.
Sorry, new here. It's an AWD/CVT. Did you pack much into the trailer? I would pretty much just have my bed, small couch and some small shelves.
 

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Despite the manual saying not to tow (I’m guessing for transmission reasons), I believe elsewhere in the manual it states the cargo capacity including passengers should not exceed 1500lbs. I don’t see a difference in having the weight over an axle vs behind an axle other than for aerodynamic purposes. That all said, I’ve never towed anything, on any car, ever so I wouldn’t listen to myself.
 

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Nissan US wanted to avoid liability and stated in all literature: "do not tow".

Everywhere else is 200lb tongue weight 2000lb max load.
 

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I've towed cross country 3500 mi (across 9 states) on my CVT RS several years back on a 5'x8' uhaul trailer. It was super hot, around 100F during last week of June. I filled the trailer to the brim. Initially, I wanted to get the 6'x12' trailer just because I had so much stuff, but it was not listed as an option for the Juke per uhaul website. On hindsight, I'm glad that 6'x12' wasn't an option for me because the trailer is heavy, probably weigh close to 2000lb by itself empty. My fully loaded 5'x8' was risky as I'm pretty sure it exceeded the limit too.

I was relocating in between of my residency programs, with only 5 days to move/travel, so I can't risk the car breaking down. I prep the car by changing the CVT fluid, installing CVT cooler with fan, stick to 55mph, drove at night through early morning while sleeping in the afternoon while it's the hottest. The EU jukes come with OEM CVT cooler, probably why their manual gave them a tow limit, but not for us.

Doesn't sound like OP have a lot to tow, but in this summer heat, having an external CVT cooler will certainly be ideal. Otherwise, definitely don't exceed 55-60mph, and avoid driving in the afternoon if you can. Also, if you have aftermarket wheels, may need to change back to OEM as the car will squat with the trailer. Hope this helps!


190468
 

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Squat is based on the tongue weight, which is based on the weight distribution over the axle of the trailer. If you load it 50/50 or slightly rear, then you have almost no weight on the tongue and no downforce on the hitch and no squat. You do want SOME weight on the tongue though, for handling reasons and sway with the trailer.

I also recommend AGAINST the cooler. Based on my 9 year history on the forums, adding the trans cooler introduces more problems than it solves.
 

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Not an expert myself, I just followed uhaul's instruction and load 60-40. No time or scale to measure the exact distribution even if I wanted to. In addition to excessive sway, rear-biased may cause the trailer to lift up the rear of the car during abrupt brakes.

Agree. Like many aftermarket mods, the cooler is not for everyone. Even straight forward swaps like aftermarket wheels can be fuzzed about for ruining the alignment and wheel bearing. I added the cooler based on what I read on the forum. Just sharing my experience cuz I was on a time crunch and can't afford to have the car fail/limp on route. It was a calculated risk and worked for me during the blazing heat. My own assessment from reading the forum, (may not be true), some cooler failed due to choosing a cooler that's "too efficient". Depends on the brand, the plate-and-fin design are efficient but prone to clogging (metal shavings from normal wear and tear), can also cause significant pressure drop and damage the pump. Tube-and-fin is less efficient, but lower risk for pressure drop or clog.

Anyways, cooler aside, quoting some guru here once said: highway speed is what kills CVT. So drive conservatively at around 55mph while towing should remain as the priority. Good luck!
 

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Not an expert myself, I just followed uhaul's instruction and load 60-40. No time or scale to measure the exact distribution even if I wanted to. In addition to excessive sway, rear-biased may cause the trailer to lift up the rear of the car during abrupt brakes.

Agree. Like many aftermarket mods, the cooler is not for everyone. Even straight forward swaps like aftermarket wheels can be fuzzed about for ruining the alignment and wheel bearing. I added the cooler based on what I read on the forum. Just sharing my experience cuz I was on a time crunch and can't afford to have the car fail/limp on route. It was a calculated risk and worked for me during the blazing heat. My own assessment from reading the forum, (may not be true), some cooler failed due to choosing a cooler that's "too efficient". Depends on the brand, the plate-and-fin design are efficient but prone to clogging (metal shavings from normal wear and tear), can also cause significant pressure drop and damage the pump. Tube-and-fin is less efficient, but lower risk for pressure drop or clog.

Anyways, cooler aside, quoting some guru here once said: highway speed is what kills CVT. So drive conservatively at around 55mph while towing should remain as the priority. Good luck!
I saw you post regarding the cooler.
so I bought a 2012 Juke SL AWD CVT with 123k miles. Even tho I’ve only owned the car for 4K miles ( 127k currently) I was contemplating on installing an oil cooler .
The furthest I’ve driven the car was from San Fran to LA n back ( no problem whatsoever)

I recently did a drain and fill like 4 weeks ago as well.
The biggest reason for wanting to install a cooler is that . I will be going on a 3.5k mile trip and lol 😂 I don’t want any surprises.

Would you mind telling me what type of cooler did you use?
 

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Are you going to use your 3.5k mile trip as your long term test? Installing the cooler immediately before your trip is asking for more problems than just leaving it alone IMO.
 

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Are you going to use your 3.5k mile trip as your long term test? Installing the cooler immediately before your trip is asking for more problems than just leaving it alone IMO.
not really a long term test cause if I install it , it will stay there permanently and I really don’t have any monitoring app to see before n after

I will be driving from CALI to Central American and I don’t want any surprises. If I was to stay in Cali then I wouldn’t even think about installing one cause the weather here is cool vs the tropics in C.A.

I was looking at fast religion cooler and the design of the cooler seems safe .
 

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I agree with @Bargeld > Dont just install and go. Drive it for a month and make sure it is worry free. Leaks, Fill level etc.
 

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I saw you post regarding the cooler.
so I bought a 2012 Juke SL AWD CVT with 123k miles. Even tho I’ve only owned the car for 4K miles ( 127k currently) I was contemplating on installing an oil cooler .
The furthest I’ve driven the car was from San Fran to LA n back ( no problem whatsoever)

I recently did a drain and fill like 4 weeks ago as well.
The biggest reason for wanting to install a cooler is that . I will be going on a 3.5k mile trip and lol 😂 I don’t want any surprises.

Would you mind telling me what type of cooler did you use?

Sorry, just read your post.

I used the generic Mishimoto heavy duty transmission cooler that comes with fan. I have also gotten their relay separately so the fan will automatically comes on when hitting certain temperature, which is adjustable. I also have the option to turn it on demand. The Mishimoto is a tube-and-fin design, similar to ones sold by FastReligion, so I would suggest getting FR’s kit if you don’t already have the 4-port beehive on hand. I installed mine before FR had their kit.

Many also installed the Stacked plate style cooler, which is definitely more efficient at cooling than tube-and-fin, but those could be prone to blockage and flow issue if you don’t change your filter/cvt fluid often enough.


Hope this helps.
 
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