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I found some interesting stuff on other sites. I am not sure if this is correct however, it sounds like because there is less resistance with the LEDs there is more current causing it to blow fuses (in extreme cases fry wires). This is my first time with LED lights in my car so that makes me kinda nervous.
 

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So is the stuff I was reading about wires frying a bunch of crap? Is the only thing that would cause a blown fuse with an LED a short. I have read a bunch of threads on other forums about blown fuses and LEDS. Some came to the conclusion of a short but other had other problems but were never resolved.
 

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So is the stuff I was reading about wires frying a bunch of crap? Is the only thing that would cause a blown fuse with an LED a short. I have read a bunch of threads on other forums about blown fuses and LEDS. Some came to the conclusion of a short but other had other problems but were never resolved.
I'd say there are quite a bit of misinformation and a general lack of understanding out there about LEDs....And I'm guessing a good degree of poor handling and install practices are mainly the cause as to why some on other forums have complained about frying wires and such!... But thats exactly why there are fuses added so wires don't melt and fry...There are lots of folks out there that have wired LEDs, DRL's, Xenon balasters for instance directly to the battery without adding a fuse melting their wiring harnesses!! And its always good practice to check your LEDs out prior to installing first!

Like I said earlier you do need to be careful and verify by testing prior to installing some of these "stacked tower" LED designs and be aware that "shorts" from poor workmanship may exist (solder splashes, etc) which in turn would draw an infinite amount of current until something opens and is the reason why you blow fuses! that simple...

I will say though that I've had all my LEDs installed for over a year now in my Juke and I haven't had any problems with any of them! And once you've verified and installed them properly then if they were to fail the common failure mode is typical to that of the incandescent bulb which is an open...

Suggestion...all you need to have is a small 9-12vdc battery handy to check and verify your LEDs first prior to install ..its that easy!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I've been having a conversation with SuperBrightLEDs about the issue. They suggested that the 2x 3Ohm resistors draw 48W which works out to roughly 8A - which might explain why adding the R18's would put the demand over 10A. LEDs all around + 2x 3Ohm resistors + LED light strips (and custom controller) must be getting close to the 10A limit on their own...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Check my post - I said that 2x 3Ohm resistors draw 8A (4 each). That one 10A fuse is powering the 2 front signals (parking mode), 2 rear signals (parking mode) the side blinkers, the steering wheel and nav unit illumination and (in my case) the LED light strip and its controller. I can easily see how all of this would add up to being very near 10A.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I checked the LEDs and they are fine. They pull 46mA on low, and 93mA on high from a 12V power source. Earlier, I had a look at both the socket as well as both LEDs (R15 and R18). Both have 4 leads. The R15 has 4 distinct leads running to the circuit board going into the LED. However, the R18 has 2 of those directly soldered together (GND) inside. When I look to where these both meet inside the connector, I believe they are shorting the parking light circuit. I think the R18s are wired wrong for our rear turn signal sockets. I am going to look into this more but need to better understand the socket layout for the rear turn signal. It appears to have 7 copper plates, with a number of them connected together. Just have to figure out what the actual wire to copper plate connections are. Off to check the service manual....
 

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Folks - problem solved. I decide to start a new thread about it since its pretty critical that everyone who tries the R18s knows the issue.
congrads!! Glad to hear you found the shorting problem...

Edit: Note that there are two types available ...the Juke uses "CK" type 7443 LEDs....if you purchase and attempt to install the other type you will blow fuses!

 

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blew it with a bad led tail light.

Found this fuse box unfortunately it is not labeled and hard to get at. the fuse in question is the 10 amp just below the big red wire. I had to pretty much remove the whole cold air intake to bet at the box then after getting the top off twisting it so you can see some fuses with the clusters of wires. I did not remove any wire clips.
 

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Wanted to thank everyone who helped shed ligh on that misterious 3rd fuse box.

Burned a fuse and it took me circa two hours to find which one.. of course it was located under the air filter ((
 

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Help I think I blew a fuse my license plate light , and park light doesn't work. I check the the fuse box on the engine and the drivers side and all are good. What do I do... Tnx.
 

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I love you guys - after the loss of my '14 Nismo RS I thought it would eb hard to come back...but with my '16 Stinger I'm HERE!

I just tried the Tower-18 744x and DUDE this pic is spot on! Found it under the fuse box of death...much love! Thank you...and a call to SBL is in order!
 
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