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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I put LEDs in the signals, turns, backup, and brakes. Have the 3Ohm resistors.. Everything was working fine until I decided to swap out the rear signal LEDs for brighter ones. I had 7443-R15's in there which were working fine, but not bright enough. Ordered a set of 7443-R18Rs. Has the lights on as I wanted to see the difference in brightness, took out the left 7443-R15, then as soon as I put in the 7443-R18 all the LEDs went out. First assumption is a fuse, but after checking all the fuses in the driver and engine compartment, they were all fine (I pulled all of them). When I start the car, the only lights that come on are the front large ones, and the brake lights (which are LEDs) work when I put the brakes on. However, no signals, no parking lights etc. Am I missing another location for fuses? I did not see any fuses that specifically referenced turn signals/parking lights, so I am hoping I just missed it. Thoughts?
 

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So, I put LEDs in the signals, turns, backup, and brakes. Have the 3Ohm resistors.. Everything was working fine until I decided to swap out the rear brake LEDs for brighter ones. I had 7440-R15's in there which were working fine, but not bright enough. Ordered a set of 7443-R18Rs. Has the lights on as I wanted to see the difference in brightness, took out the 7440, then as soon as I put in the 7443 all the LEDs went out. First assumption is a fuse, but after checking all the fuses in the driver and engine compartment, they were all fine (I pulled all of them). When I start the car, the only lights that come on are the front large ones, and the brake lights (which are LEDs) work when I put the brakes on. However, no signals, no parking lights etc. Am I missing another location for fuses? I did not see any fuses that specifically referenced turn signals/parking lights, so I am hoping I just missed it. Thoughts?
I am hoping you meant that you replaced 7440-R15's with 7440-R18's for the brake lamps and not with 7443-R15's as you mention above as these are meant for use with the turn/passenger lamps....7440's are "single" contact for the brakes and 7443 are "dual" contacts used for combo turns/passengers lamps

As far as fuses did you check the fuse box location around the battery area?


And last..I recall someone else here on the forum who had problems with using these 744X-R"18" type LEDs in the rear....

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/744x-x18-T.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Edited original - had the 7443-R15 and got 7443-R18's.

Update - I dug a little deeper and have determined that the parking light mode is what is not working. The 7443-R15s are still in there, and when the car is running, the signals work. The brake LEDs also work. Basically, the alligator eye LEDs, the parking rear LED and sidemarkers are all out. I assume that these should be tied to a single fuse, but I have not been able to find any that are blown. I checked the driver side fuses, the engine compartment ones (front left side) as well as the large fuse links just off the "+" terminal on the battery - all look good. Am I missing a fuse panel somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmm.. Not liking where this is going.. Was checking through the service manual and found this (in exl.pdf).. Suggesting that I may have miffed up the BCS?? What ever happened to good old fuses!? Strange part is that I can't see the R18's being an heavy current draw (compared to the R15). Any thoughts?

BCS.JPG
 

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Edited original - had the 7443-R15 and got 7443-R18's.

Update - I dug a little deeper and have determined that the parking light mode is what is not working. The 7443-R15s are still in there, and when the car is running, the signals work. The brake LEDs also work. Basically, the alligator eye LEDs, the parking rear LED and sidemarkers are all out. I assume that these should be tied to a single fuse, but I have not been able to find any that are blown. I checked the driver side fuses, the engine compartment ones (front left side) as well as the large fuse links just off the "+" terminal on the battery - all look good. Am I missing a fuse panel somewhere?
I had the same issue caused by a bad ground with my steering wheel control. Was blowing a completely different fuse in the drivers side fuse box. Fixed the ground and it was ok.
I had blown a fuse in the box of death also but when replaced it did not blow again even though the lights still were not working


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the same issue caused by a bad ground with my steering wheel control. Was blowing a completely different fuse in the drivers side fuse box. Fixed the ground and it was ok.
I had blown a fuse in the box of death also but when replaced it did not blow again even though the lights still were not working
Hmm.. I checked the drivers side fuses 2x's, but its always worth another try. Where is the "fuse box of death"? Have you had any issues with your BCM? I'd like to think that my issue is either a) a simple fuse replacement or b) a reset of the ECU. ..but I've checked all fuses I know of, and taken the '+' battery terminal off (assume this resets the ECU)?
 

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I seriously doubt that lighting is controlled thru the ECU (Engine Control Unit). Lets hope not, that would be really dumb.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I seriously doubt that lighting is controlled thru the ECU (Engine Control Unit). Lets hope not, that would be really dumb.
I agree. However, after reading through the service manual, there appears to be a separate control unit for things like lighting called the BCS (and also BCM). See the attachment I included above for an excerpt. Looks like this 'thing' monitors and controls some of the lighting in the car. Not sure I like that - as I said earlier, why not just blow a fuse!?

What gets me is that all I did was plug in another LED that was also identified as being compatible for the signals into the socket. I did this when the lights were on to see the brightness diff between old and new. My assumption is that I shorted the connection. However, the LED came on for a second, then went out. There are 3 wires into this connection. GND, Parking Light and Signal. Signal still works. Parking light does not. So its that one circuit that is pooched. I even tried putting the 7443-R18 back in and it worked fine when the signal was on. So, presuming I accidentally shorted the connection, and if it is the BCM/BCS, that seems like a harsh response to something anyone could do when changing out bulbs. Stay tuned.. I'm going to figure this SOB out. At this point, I refuse to accept that the R18 would be that much more than the R15 to cause a short. I can accept that it may introduce rapid flashing of the signals... for now.. :)

Oh, and BTW, I noticed this morning that the illumination for the nav unit buttons are also out (e.g. the fm/am/nav/back/setup buttons). However, all other interior lights work, ICON is good, stereo, nav all work fine etc. Strange!
 

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Hate to say it...But from the sound of your problem and how its now effected other lighting it sounds like a part of the BCM module may have gotten fried...Nissan choses to controll most of its switched lighting through this module...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good to hear! Were you ever able to use the higher power 7443-R"18"s?
I'm trying to build up my nerve to take a chance on it.. Might do it next week. I was checking the difference between the 7443-R15's and R18's and its minor:

7443-R15: 28/65 mA
7443-R18: 35/115 mA
difference of: 7/50 mA (low/high)

(note, normally you would double these numbers (for both left and right), but in my case, I blew the fuse when inserting the left R18)

Even when the signal is on (high), I have a hard time believing that with all the other LEDs and my custom LED light strips, that I am that close to the 10A max, that 50mA will put me over and blow the fuse. I am trying to convince myself that I shorted the connection and that is what blew it... I think what I may do (given the holidays) is pull the 10A fuse from the IPDM, build a quick connector to incorporate the fuse and my V-meter, and monitor the existing current draw on it to see what the system is pulling when on (and with hazards on). That should give a min/max draw.
 

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Any updates? I am unimpressed with the 7443 R15 especially with the almost non existent turn signal. I was also thinking of moving to the 7440-R18 for the brake light as well. I am just nervous about the fuse blowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update: So I took the plunge and tried to put the 7443-R18's in and they blew the fuse. As with the other time, I only put one in and when powering up (parking lights), it blew the fuse. So, I think it's safe to say that the R18's are too much for the system.. Shame considering that SuperBrightLEDs indicate they work. Possibly on their own but not in combination with front LEDs w/3Ohm resistors.
 

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That totally sucks!!! I just ordered some from ebay luckily they were only 15 bucks for the two. I wonder if they would work without the strip LEDS?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How about you take one for the team and give it a try when you get yours? I just replaced the 10A fuse that blew after I tried the R18's - it was the same one that the dealer found. I recall hearing of someone else trying the 7443-R18's and I 'think' their issue was that they had the rapid signal issue (and did not a blown a fuse). I suspect that my LED light strips and their controller must be what is putting it over the 10A level. Come Spring, I might try to disconnect the light strips and see how the R18's fare then... but I'm done for now.
 

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How about you take one for the team and give it a try when you get yours? I just replaced the 10A fuse that blew after I tried the R18's - it was the same one that the dealer found. I recall hearing of someone else trying the 7443-R18's and I 'think' their issue was that they had the rapid signal issue (and did not a blown a fuse). I suspect that my LED light strips and their controller must be what is putting it over the 10A level. Come Spring, I might try to disconnect the light strips and see how the R18's fare then... but I'm done for now.
LOL I agree you have done enough. I just installed the led strips today because I was worried about the almost non existent turn signal with out them. Does the controller you have draw a bunch of power? I will try but am not looking forward to having to get to that fuse because of my intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
When it gets warmer out again, I am going to do some testing to see what my LED strip and controller are drawing. It am starting to think that these must be putting the entire parking light system close to the 10A max. Also note that the steering wheel and nav unit illumination are also on this same circuit.

The way I have it set-up is as follows:
- parking light lead (to turn signal) powers the controller and LED light strip. 12V > 12V LED light strip and (12V>5V regulator to the controller) The controller is minimal (5V @ < 60 mA). Each LED light strip is only about 300mA.
- I also have a lead coming off the brake light into the controller. It goes into an Opto isolator chip is used as a light trigger of sorts. This triggers the controller to go from 75% power (normal) to 100% (when brakes are applied).

If they are drawing too much, I think what I am going to do is bring a line back from the drivers' side fuse (the spare 20A trailer circuit). This will become my main LED strip power. Then I will just use the brake light line to monitor the brakes. This way, I will draw no power from the signals, and minimal power from the brake LEDs (< 30mA).
 

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Maybe another problem is the LED itself. I have been searching around other forums about LED bulbs blowing fuses. Some have said that some LED bulbs have a bad solder or something causing a short. This was not the case for all though. Some bump the fuse up to a 15 but I would definitely be hesitant to do that knowing about "the fuse box of death".
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's a good point. I have not checked the LED itself, but will do that soon. These LEDs are the two-mode types. Low (parking lights) and high (signals).. Each time I put it in, it blew the low (parking), but always worked when the signals are on. I will add that my LED controller is hooked to the low lead though - so that could still be the cause. Im going to throw both of them on a 12V power supply while monitoring the current draw for both low and high to see what they are drawing...
 
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