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RS came out in 2014 so it's just a Nismo fyi.

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I feel you. I blew up 3 motors in 3 months (don't ask, haha), but what I can tell you, is that there is light at the end of the tunnel. Take your time and do what you need to do. If you do decide to build it back up, take the time to put some cool parts into it. Forged pistons, balanced crank, ported head (unless you smog), upgraded valve train, ARP studs, etc. At 95k +, think of it as the car telling you to rebuild it.

Also I blew 2 more motors after that, so, I guess you could say, it gets easier. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I feel you. I blew up 3 motors in 3 months (don't ask, haha), but what I can tell you, is that there is light at the end of the tunnel. Take your time and do what you need to do. If you do decide to build it back up, take the time to put some cool parts into it. Forged pistons, balanced crank, ported head (unless you smog), upgraded valve train, ARP studs, etc. At 95k +, think of it as the car telling you to rebuild it.

Also I blew 2 more motors after that, so, I guess you could say, it gets easier. Good luck!
DAMN THATS WHY THERE IS A JUKE ENGINE SHORTAGE
 

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I’ve seen about 4 different fully dressed Mr16’s out of nf15’s with lower mileage for sale on yahoo auctions japan recently for decent prices. Under 2k CAD. Shipping would suck however.

I’ve sourced all my expensive repairs through yahoo auctions japan and have saveed a ton of money in the long run. Even with shipping ( I’ve broken my rear coupling assembly twice now).
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I’ve seen about 4 different fully dressed Mr16’s out of nf15’s with lower mileage for sale on yahoo auctions japan recently for decent prices. Under 2k CAD. Shipping would suck however.

I’ve sourced all my expensive repairs through yahoo auctions japan and have saveed a ton of money in the long run. Even with shipping ( I’ve broken my rear coupling assembly twice now).
thanks mint for the info. would love to get one asap. still testing the waters
 

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Refer to Pbolio's thread on his engine rebuild. If I were gonna do a rebuilt engine. Have a shop do it per say. Especially the head.

I think a used low mileage motor is a good bet with the timing chain, water pump, oil pump etc being replaced before installation. Used CVTs prolly have a tendency to blow up sooner than later compared to a "Serviced" used engine install.
 

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There are so many ways to go here: Low mileage used, rebuilt used, new longblock, new shortblock, etc.

When I did my teardown on my 80k motor the crankshaft, engine block, pistons, rods, etc. all looked great. The main bearings and rod bearings also looked immaculate. Cylinder bores had very "light" scoring, mostly from carbon deposits, but cylinder compression extremely good. I measured the cylinder bores and aside from some minor ovality, they also looked pretty good although not racing quality. It burned ZERO engine oil. I did early on have some bizarre engine coolant consumption but I refilled and then it went to zero after that. This is just commenting on how dang tough these little motors are, and durable.

What I'm getting at here is that: The timing chain and tensioner live and die by the quality of oil. I don't particularly do anything radical with my oil changes and I drive my cars hard, but I do run 100% Vavoline Syntec changed every 6k miles along with the oil filter. My main bearings & rod bearings looked BRAND NEW after 80k miles, so I'd imagine my timing chain wear was nil. I still have my tensioner and I bet it's as clean as a whistle, same with the entire topside of my cylinder head. I have the timing chain laying in a box and I could measure the length to check for wear I suppose or the link "play". Would that same chain & tensioner have lasted 95,000 miles or whatever? Not sure, and I'm not taking chances on my built motor cause the chain will never see more than 50k miles. I highly doubt an oil pump aluminum casting just explodes on it's own but it's possible it had a defect. The oil pump is also cheap enough to swap with the timing chain when the time comes.

Any used motor you buy is a crap shoot. I'm not a fan of used stuff that has seen millions of load cycles, the OP's failure is proof positive of that. Swap the timing chain and oil pump, sure, but are you also gonna swap out the main/rod bearings, re-polish the crankshaft journals, check the rod straightness, etc.? Probably not. Who knows what the kind of oil the original owner ran, if they ran low on oil, ran low on fuel pressure, etc. There is a reason they sell new short blocks, cause they are massively low risk and fast to install and worth every penny as they include the entire rotating assembly bolted up ready to rock and roll.

The work to pull a motor and reinstall it.........is massive IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
as an update the Nismo rs has just been totaled by geico insurance. don't know what im going to do now. my boss' personal assistant wants to buy the car back from the insurance but don't know yet
 

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If you have a red spoiler, I'd be happy to take it off your hands!
 

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How does the insurance cover engine problems?
 

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How does the insurance cover engine problems?
I was wondering the same thing. If it's not an accident, why would they cover it? You must have good insurance!
 

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Admit nothing!! You don't know who is watching! :censored: :cool:
 

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A moment of silence to remember...😌
 

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:cry::cry::cry::(
 

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Hmm, that sucks man. Cause I had a motor being built..........oh well. Good luck and let us know what ride your looking at next.
 
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