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Find a different dealer. I have been using California and Alabama dealers on my road trips and nothing has been over $230. Search the forums and you can see the recommended refill. Removing the dipstick is the hardest part. I followed the recommendations and used the skinniest screwdriver I had, then had to find a skinny one. The issue is you need the software to tell the computer the fluid was changed.
 
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CVT fluid exchange from a dealership shouldn't be more the $200 plus tax. The fluid is $20/quart (Juke without cooler takes 4.5 quarts) and it takes less than an hour of labor (at $100/hr). That's according to my service receipt from a week ago. Or do it yourself and save the labor charge and you could probably get comparable NS-2 CVT fluid for cheaper. But you still have to reset the CVT fluid life in the ECU.
 

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To DIY: basically, remove the drain plug, measure how much fluid comes out, put slightly less than that back in through the dipstick tube, warm up the transmission, measure the level and top off if needed. More detail is available in other threads.

Not hard at all. You can get a bit more out if you turn the car off in gear and shift slowly back and forth between drive, neutral and reverse, then jack up the rear of the car after the plug is out and wait till it completely stops dripping (but that is going beyond what the dealer does). If you use Valvoline off Amazon, it will cost you less than $60.
 
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Did my own, took about 20 minutes, with Valvoline CVT fluid. Just takes a while to drain, actual labour involved is remove drain plug, drain, refill with four quarts, then slowly add more fluid until proper level, about another half quart. Seems much smoother now. Didn't do a reset.
 

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Is there any difference in the auto cvt version?

Thinking of doing this myself too, I've also seen some sort of filter to be replaced inside the cvt itself. Not sure if that has to be changed.

The cvtz50 app can reset the cvt fluid counter doesn't it?
 

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Yes the app can reset the counter, although I don't really think it matters honestly. I can't find any record on the forum of the counter getting to the point it actually recommends replacing the fluid so I don't know why it exists. The counter doesn't even increase unless your CVT is above 90c which is ridiculous. Nissan does not recommend replacing the fluid nearly as frequently as they should, I think they are paranoid about people using standard ATF or not filling it to the proper level.

It's super easy to do yourself. You can drop the CVT pan bolt and drain that way, but since I do mine yearly and to make it easy on myself I got a fluid extractor. Suck the fluid out of the dipstick tube, replace with as much fresh fluid as old fluid that was extracted. Now drive around a few minutes and make sure the CVT fluid level is within the warm cross marked area of the dip stick. Viola. Do this once a year and your CVT will probably last a long time.
 

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Hi all, sorry to bring an old thread back to life but it looks like I'm now forced to change my CVT fluid.

Long story short, I had a leak from the CVT cooler hoses (found a nice pool of fluid on the floor plus sprayed the whole subframe). The cooler hoses have now been changed by an non dealer garage, however it looks like they didn't refill with any CVT fluid.

I suspect the fluid is now lower than it should be. (had 2 instances of strange surge and a delayed gear change yesterday but today is fine.)

I did attempt to check the level (hoping to find a dipstick on the 2014 UK model) but couldn't get the filler cap off as I am worried about breaking something in the process.

The battery and tray are right in the way of where is need to hook a screwdriver to release the clip.

Really want to attempt this myself so I know I can do it in the future, if I somehow manage to get the filler cap undone, should I expect to find a dipstick or does the level check have to be done through the inspection bolt on the CVT itself?


If you have any tips that would be great.

Many thanks
 

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have a pick set with one sha
ick set with one shaped like a hook. It works perfectly to release the CVT Cap.
Thanks, that's good news if it does, to be fair I was trying to get my hand through the gap shortly after a 1 hour drive so it was still hot.

I'll have a look out for some picks and at least confirm if it has a dipstick before I go ahead an order the replacement fluid. I can tell the previous garage attempted to top up the fluid because the dipstick hasn't been touched.
 

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Thanks all for the advice.

Just one last thing, is it worth dropping the pan itself to clean the internal magnets and replace the internal filter after the drain?

Would need a new gasket after I would imagine.

Might be overkill but what do you guys think?
 

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Also, just got the cap off to the charging pipe.

No dip stick, so it's going to be put in what comes out and then check the inspection hole for a drip.

Has anyone got any pictures of where the inspection bolt is?

Not looking forward to removing this bolt at 40 degrees c with the engine running.

Such a silly design not providing a dipstick.
 

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Take the bolt off while its cool. Place a hose in it that extends up through to the engine with a funnel. Run it up to temp. Top it off via the funnel til it starts to drip out. Yeah its a lil messy but you dont get burned.
 

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Take the bolt off while its cool. Place a hose in it that extends up through to the engine with a funnel. Run it up to temp. Top it off via the funnel til it starts to drip out. Yeah its a lil messy but you dont get burned.
I love that idea, thanks Macgyver.

Had a quick feel for the inspection bolt without jacking up. I think I feel the bolt on the side is that the one I'm looking for?
 

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The Fill bolt is a recessed 3/8" square drive bolt I believe.
 

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Hi all, so quick update.

I have ordered 6L of NS3 fluid plus filter kit and pan gasket.

After doing some research, it seems that I have the JF015E CVT, these have an overflow tube in the pan and the level is measured by how much fluid overflows at 40 deg from the drain plug.

Going to drop the pan, replace the internal filter and then clean the magnets in the pan as well as replacing the in line filter at the side.

Can't wait to the see the results and if performance improves.
 

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It should be night and day.
 

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Done and dusted, it was nerve racking but glad I did it.

Just need to find some level ground tomorrow and do the fluid level check at 40 degrees.

Managed to do the pan filter, side filter all while still on the ground.

Magnets looked a little fuzzy but nothing serious.

Thanks all for the advice, you have been amazing.
 

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Thats awesome. Glad to help. Post back after it all breaks in a while.
 
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