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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I went wide open throttle and my piping popped off so hard I think a hole was put into the intake pipe. The culprit was a bolt near by that seems to not give my piping any clearance. If I replace pipe, besides not going WOT anymore, what would cause that to pop off? Also, the oil catch can seemed to be collecting oil, is there now a bigger issue? Could that have caused a miss fire, now likely having to replace a coil pack and spark plugs? (2014 Juke RS 6-sod manual with tune)
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Can someone please help me out
 

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The Pipe has NO bead roll near the end. That is why its popping off.

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Looks like 2J racing's work, having beadless pipes lol.
 

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My 2J FMIC pipes have full beads on every single pipe or more correctly IC tubing. Also don't have the million weld joints these do.
It looks like the entire IC tube was already chopped and that doesn't look like the original tube anyway.
 
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My 2J FMIC pipes have full beads on every single pipe or more correctly IC tubing. Also don't have the million weld joints these do.
It looks like the entire IC tube was already chopped and that doesn't look like the original tube anyway.
Agree. All my pipes - SRI, IC (which are all custom for me :D ) have wonderful beads on them. Almost to the point where it's really hard to get the air filter off it's soo tight.
 

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My old B17 Sentra hard pipes didn't, and the welding looked very similar. I guess it depends on which cheap Chinese manufacturer he gets each batch in from hahaha.
 

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That charge pipe doesn't look right. It looks like the 2 or 2.25" end was chopped to make it sit lower for what purpose I can't tell, maybe the blow off valve/hood clearance, thus the bolt interference. If you look at the charge tube end there is a thin bare aluminum witness line on the edge. A powder coated charge tube will have overspray back into the inside and all edges will be painted, the OP can confirm this.

How 2J weld quality get's brought into this no idea as those pipes are painted. The 2J aluminum weld quality on mine looks good, mostly full penetration and more or less flat welds with no pinhole or evidence of burn-thru. Could be better but if it passes a pressure test and doesn't crack I'm good with it for what they are being used for.
 

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I dont know why you always have to argue for no reason...so you clearly know what mine looked like more than myself?

I do not know if he OP's are 2J or not, I simply made a slighty sarcastic response because those looked similar in build to what I personally got.

Also, lets no kid ourselves here, we all know full well about the poor 2J parts quality. On my B17 Sentra (which has the Juke V2 engine in it, same intercooler, etc) my hard pipes had poor fitment to the point where if I drove the car another couple of hundred miles there would be a hole inthere from it rubbing against the intake manifold. The sensor housing wasn't the right size and it wrecked the o-ring on the sensor when I took it off. My SRI threw a code every 100-200 miles because of the wrong MAF sensor housing wasn't the correct dimensions.
 

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Possibly 2J are hit/miss on part quality but this isn't the focus of this thread. The OP clearly has a chopped pipe and poor fitment. Solutions here are to possibly find a longer transition silicon hose adapter and chop the remaining tube off and use the weld bead as a hose bead. Or send it out to a welder and add a few weld beads around the perimeter for $30 and call it a day without making a big drama of the situation. Because there is zero information on the charge pipe supplier no one can say if it's a vendor issue or not. Those charge pipes don't look familiar.
 

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The op pipes are from ebay. I have come across them before, and have thrown quite a few away for people who bring their cars here for work.

All of them are poorly made and poorly fitted. The piping diameter is correct. The welds are terrible, no beads where the should be, nothing is places right, the 2 bolt flange is warped and leaks, the map sensor orientation isnt perfect, the dv neck is waaaaaay too long, and its got way too many couplers.

Ive seen two ebay kits that have some beads but no all of them lol
 

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I have made beads using @FastReligion idea of a electrical pliers or whatever it was to crimp a bead in the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I got the pipe off and I can get it to a fabrication shop for the bead, but now I found another issue this little metal feed line had a slit in it. So I have to replace that now. Anyone know what it’s called?
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I think thats a coolant line
 

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Brake master cylinder vacuum.
 
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