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First thing first, before anyone gets all technical on me:


The manual transmission Juke has an upper motor mount, a lower motor mount, an upper torque mount, and a transmission mount.


Please don’t get all fussy with me for referring to the whole bunch as ‘motor mounts’. It’s for ease of conversation.





Here’s the dillio: The Juke motor moves a lot. Once it’s been modified and is pumping out extra horsepower, it moves even MORE every time ya push on that gas pedal. An unnecessary amount of wobble under load. This is due to the upper torque mount and lower motor mount being designed ‘loosely’ so the engine can rotate slightly and vibration and noise gets absorbed and isolated from the vehicle for comfort. The downside is a lot of power is lost in the engine flopping around. The solution is solid mounts. Racecars go to the extreme: they use actual rigid solid metal motor mounts and every single inkling of power is transferred from the motor to the wheels and no energy is lost in engine mounts. The downside is that driver comfort is pretty much eliminated as every vibration is transferred to the frame of the vehicle and right into your body. Ew. The middle ground is to do a solid mount with a softer isolating material in order to eliminate slop and play but still not transfer all the noise and vibration. Liquid urethane steps in to the rescue. It is available in different hardnesses and I chose the softest available for my daily driver application: 60A.

Here's the stuff I bought:


First step is to acquire a set of motor mounts. The two that you need to do are the upper torque mount and the lower motor mount. Since this process takes a week total for cure time, it is highly recommended to buy a secondary set unless you can afford to have the vehicle inop for that time period. The mounts:


I cut away as much rubber as reasonably possible to allow a higher ratio of urethane but also to allow it to flow more freely into one large piece rather than get stuck in separated pockets. Also worth noting is that the rubber needs to be clean and scuffed up to promote adhesion for the urethane. There is a primer available but I opted not to use it. I first cleaned with engine degreaser, then soap & water & scotchbrite, and then just put a bunch of cuts/slits where I could with the knife to allow as ample opportunity for the urethane to bite.


Now ya gotta plug the backside. I used some gray butyl that I had laying around. Honestly some playdough or clay would have made this a lot easier and I would recommend that but work with whatever you got.


Time to mix and pour. This stuff is rather particular about its 10:1 ratio by weight rather than volume. Grab your handy dandy kitchen scale and weigh out carefully. Technically I would have preferred a scale with 0.1 gram accuracy rather than what I had, but, again, work with whatever you got.


Get your mounts laid out level and steady prior to mixing. I know the 'cat litter' technique has been discussed but I found that grossly unnecessary for our mounts. One popsicle stick offered enough height difference to make them perfectly level, confirmed with a 6" bubble level. Use whatever process you wanna do, but make sure it lays flat prior to your pour.


Something not shown here is: after you pour, there will be some inherent bubbles inside the urethane slowly trying to fight their way to the surface. You can use a heat gun on low to break the surface tension quickly and easily and get a superior finish. Do it repeatedly: about every other minute or so and that will encourage all the bubbles as they rise to continue to pop and leave you with a very desirable finish. I learned this on my second set and found the result much much better.

The reason I didn't do the approach where you duct tape off one side is because that makes the other side super ugly. I gave the mounts 24 hours to set and cure and then removed the butyl. Flip em over, make sure they're level, mix up another batch, pour away. Give it 24 hours, you've got two beautiful sides now. Easy cheasy.
The opposite side (hint: it looks the same but now there's a few more drips/spills on the cardboard)


And that's that. You've got solid urethane filled mounts that looks great! Recommended full cure time is 7 days so set em aside and practice your yoga for a week. I'm not gonna cover installation here simply because I didn't take any pictures of the process. It's straight forward, these two are pretty obviously located.

Another thing I REALLY want to point out:
These are the two mounts that will reduce/eliminate the rotating of the engine that is so detrimental to power transfer and control of the motor under load. HOWEVER... Standard Operating Procedure of replacing of any motor mount is: if ya replace one, replace em all! You do whatever you want, but I will share my experience and reasoning on the topic. My car was already at 115k miles when I did this motor mount upgrade. You should be expecting to start replacing any/all rubber components around 100k anyways so if you're doing this on a high-mileage Juke, DO THEM ALL, no question about it. If you have a super low mileage Juke, you can cut some corners if you'd like to save a few bucks but I don't think it's worthwhile. I look it as replacing one bad tire. If you can afford to replace all 4, it makes sense for the obvious reason that they will all wear evenly and predictably and proper operation can be expected. If you do just half your motor mounts, results and future wear will be uneven/unpredictable. In my situation, the upper motor mount (where the upper torque mount bolts to) and the transmission mount (underneath the battery) also got replaced. Both were HEAVILY worn and in obvious need of replacement. The only way I knew this was to remove them. If you're taking on this project and want to do it right, replace all the mounts at once.

As for RESULTS...
I'll admit, I was expecting results but nothing life changing. I'll compare this upgrade to getting my first cold air intake. Whoa. The change was incredible. It was like I had tightened up the whole front end. I instantly added horsepower. My suspension had been upgraded. The Juke could take turns harder and it accelerated faster. Seriously? Just going from old worn out motor mounts to new filled urethane mounts? YEA. I am extremely pleased. After the first two turns, I knew I needed wider tires. I can't get them to stick to the ground any more. Results will obviously vary depending your particular engine mods and age, but for me: WOWZERS. Super long overdue. Thanks Mac & Noob for turning me onto this idea and setting me going in the right direction!
And as for the increased engine cabin noise and vibration? Nill. Nada. Nothing. I'm confused, was that even supposed to be an issue because I noticed absolutely NO difference. Perhaps it's because my entire Juke is already resting quietly coated in HushMat but I don't necessarily believe that. I found the 60A urethane hardness to be PERFECT. If the idle dips super low around that 600 mark (which it sometimes randomly does if I sit at a light for a long time), then yea, it sounds a bit choppy. But if there wasn't such a prior concern about additional noise, I wouldn't even be mentioning that.

For the modified daily driver, I find this to be a MUST-DO modification!!
 

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Normally, this would be the end of the tutorial.


But wait, there’s more!


If you wanna be super fancy like me, let’s kick it up a notch.


Mask off that rubber and urethane and build yourself a painting rig.



I sprayed DTM (direct to metal) Primer. Mmm, this stuff rocks. Seals and bonds to properly prepped metal.



Then a layer of guide coat and some time spent hand sanding with 220, 320, and 600 grit to get rid of as much casting texture and marks as reasonably possible.



Paint and clear coat done, masking removed. Final results:



Installed glamour pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wrote this tutorial up specifically for the JF.

However, if you wanna see any of the pictures in full resolution, I wrote up a similar but slightly less how-to-oriented Build Log on my website of the same topic at the following address:
Jukeys Custom Motor Mounts Upgrade – Superior Mobile by 13

Ayyyy, that's all.

Hopefully the moderators feel this content is sticky-icky-icky worthy. I aim to educate and empower. <3
 

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That. Is. The. Shizzle. Man. Well done... look awesome, give us an update on 'driveability' soon... thinking of doing the same kind of thing. What did you pay for the new-to-you mounts?
 

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If you want to get a stiffer result. Cut out the excess rubber. Rough up all inner surfaces and clean them.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
That. Is. The. Shizzle. Man. Well done... look awesome, give us an update on 'driveability' soon... thinking of doing the same kind of thing. What did you pay for the new-to-you mounts?
Thank you very much sir.
Uhhh driveability is awesome. I actually finished this maybe 2 weeks ago or so, just got the time to do this writeup.
My 4 Pc motor mount kit off ebay was $190.
Liquid Urethane was $41.
 

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I used the same company and went with the 80. I did the windo-weld last time which is rated at 60. I can tell the difference when stopped in drive. Have you tuner or Nissan tech raise the idle by 50 rpm is my recommendation.
 

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I tried a few different idles and 750rpm works for the manual. CVT is a whole different beast.
 

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Great work, very nice.

Other cars use inserts into the original rubber so you don't have to go through this process, but still gets firmed up and can still be removed easily.
 

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I'm really on the fence about doing these but if I do, I will likely buy a set so I can swap back to OEM for a long road trip or whatever and I don't want the extra noise. We haven't talked talked about these lately so i'm wondering if anyone else has some fresh perspective or long term feedback about their experiences with poly mounts?

I'm fine with extra noise, it's the vibration I dont want an excess off. This maybe be one of those compromises where daily driver life should think better of it.

Also does anyone happen to know if V1 and V2 use the same part numbers? It looks like if but it's hard to tell. Some are sold as 11-16 which couldn't be right. Maybe they're all models and the listings just havent been updated to account for new models.
 

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I tried a few different idles and 750rpm works for the manual. CVT is a whole different beast.
900 rpm idle is best for killing buzz especially when AC compressor is engaged.
 

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I'm really on the fence about doing these but if I do, I will likely buy a set so I can swap back to OEM for a long road trip or whatever and I don't want the extra noise. We haven't talked talked about these lately so i'm wondering if anyone else has some fresh perspective or long term feedback about their experiences with poly mounts?

I'm fine with extra noise, it's the vibration I dont want an excess off. This maybe be one of those compromises where daily driver life should think better of it.

Also does anyone happen to know if V1 and V2 use the same part numbers? It looks like if but it's hard to tell. Some are sold as 11-16 which couldn't be right. Maybe they're all models and the listings just havent been updated to account for new models.
This mod is not that stiff or buzzy. In my case these type of filled mounts are too soft and still allowed too much movement and I had to go with Turbo Noob billet mounts utilizing suspension bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm really on the fence about doing these but if I do, I will likely buy a set so I can swap back to OEM for a long road trip or whatever and I don't want the extra noise. We haven't talked talked about these lately so i'm wondering if anyone else has some fresh perspective or long term feedback about their experiences with poly mounts?

I'm fine with extra noise, it's the vibration I dont want an excess off. This maybe be one of those compromises where daily driver life should think better of it.

Also does anyone happen to know if V1 and V2 use the same part numbers? It looks like if but it's hard to tell. Some are sold as 11-16 which couldn't be right. Maybe they're all models and the listings just havent been updated to account for new models.

For those who know me personally and talk to me on the regular, they know what I've been dealing with these. I've been postponing doing a followup until everything is done, but since you're prodding me.... fine. Here goes.


Long story short: both my upper and lower mounts have failed (lower @ ~3 months, upper @ ~6 months). The urethane did not bond properly to the rubber of the mount. I reached out to customer support at suspension.com after the lower fell apart with my concerns as I had followed directions to the tee, if not overkilled prep work to guarantee success. I'm not gonna say I was upset with their response, but I wasn't particularly impressed. The response I got was that the 60A urethane was too soft of a material and that I would need to remove ALL rubber so that the urethane could bond to the metal. I feel that this is extremely different than the how-to documentation that they publicly distribute. I felt a bit 'bait and switched' as far as procedure was concerned. Time is valuable and I was more upset about doing this project AGAIN than the failure itself. Ya'll know I am busy enough making new projects and pushing limits continually developing my craft, and I loathe having to repeat a project just to be back where I started. Anyways, so the best consolation offer they provided me was a free shipping refund if I purchased more material to do the project again. Again, I wasn't too impressed. Regardless, it was an offer more than nothing and they did take the time to read over this thread to review my process (I was requesting criticism or where I went awry to cause such failure) so that was nice of em.

Anyways, I know others have been successful with this product and this process so clearly it can be done. But it failed for me. So I can't personally recommend it, although I can SERIOUSLY recommend the results. I don't know why there's still discussion regarding the outcome when it is very well documented: just read what I wrote already, jeez guys, c'mon. I don't type for the finger workout.

As for the solution now for me, I will be getting MannyMounts. In fact, to my understanding, they are arriving at powdercoating today. So ideally in about a week or two I'll have solid upper & lower mount. I'm excited to document the differences since there is so much discussion with very little actual A/B comparison. And since I have gone from factory, to filled urethane, to solid bushing, I will be humbly the most experienced person I know with regards to Juke motor mounts. :p Obviously, since I am your local friendly MannyMount distributor, I am going to be proud supporter and solid-mount-pusher... But I will not sugarcoat the results as I don't want to sell a product unless it is the appropriate solution for a customer.

We know that the upper mount is the same from start to finish on all Jukes. We *believe* that lower mount is the same as well: either FWD or AWD versions, but unaffected by generation.
 

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I had success with mine by cutting out as much of the oem rubber as possible. Then with the same prepping as 13. Roughing up surfaces. Cleaning. Pouring in Urethane. So far so good for the ones I made for people.

Its an inexpensive mod so when you do it yourself. There is enough for 4 mounts in the can. I would do two sets of mounts just in case.
 

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Great feedback Mac and 13. Can't really be without my ride for another few days so I will scoop up a pair off of Ebay and DIY it. That way i'll always have the originals just in case.
 

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Prep and overfilling are your friend. Yeah a steak knife is what I used to cut the extra rubber out. Duct tape for the underside sealing. Press it down into the litter but not so as to disturb the tapes seal. The top is easy to overfill. Use a glue gun to draw a bead around the perimeter to let the Urethane fill up higher.
 

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Great feedback Mac and 13. Can't really be without my ride for another few days so I will scoop up a pair off of Ebay and DIY it. That way i'll always have the originals just in case.
Not a bad idea at all. I left mine on for a week then took them off. Wasn’t a great feeling for a daily driver. Too much vibration.
 

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I'm trying to be adult enough to understand this BEFOREHAND. It's a Nissan Juke, and a daily driver that will get AutoXed occasionally. I'll probably regret this but i'm just childish enough to find out
 

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It is a 10 minute swap out if you are blind folded. The lower one does not add much noise. Swap out the upper before you race.
 
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