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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks, I love my Juke but I'm not really a car enthusiast overall. So my mechanical knowledge is very limited. I live in Canada and am going to driving across the country; I'm moving.

I know I can put a class 1 hitch on the juke, and I know the Juke isn't rated to tow in NA, and I know the tow and tongue weights in other parts of the world...

I want to use an accessory though that uses a 2"x2" hitch receiver - which i think is a class 3. The reason the accessory has this mount is because the accessory is rated for much heavier tongue weights. But if I keep the weight within Juke limits, is there any way to safely use/ modify to use a class 3 accessory?

(accessory is Yakima Exo system; or similar)
 

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I understand what you want to do but I don't think you will find a class III hitch for your Juke. If you do find one, you can add any accessories that you want as long as you stay close to the OEM recommendations.

Just because there is a class III hitch on any vehicle doesn't mean you can pull any trailer with a 2" ball. You always have to stay within the tow vehicle's capabilities.

This one isn't Yakima but it would give you some additional storage. Note that adding weight out the back of the wheel base will change the handling of your Juke.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@swiftlab Thanks - yeah, I get it about not towing extra; it's really the mounting system that the EXO system uses that interests me. But this rack is a great alternative, since it seems like the class 3 hitch wont happen. I totally appreciate the suggestion. I've been struggling to find a decent rear cargo carrier as well - so this is a great suggestion :)
 

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I have the curt hitch which is a 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 receiver. You can get the ball size you want in that size to fit whatever ball you need. Don't worry about class 1 & 3 as long as you know your tow limits. I've towed a packed full 6x8 uhaul with my cvt juke from northern Illinois to North Carolina with no problems. Just balance your load as best as possible and stay under 200lbs tongue/2000lbs gross. Try to be as conservative as possible, it will hurt less 😉
 

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i've got a DrawTite 1 1/4 hitch on mine which is identical to the curt and one thing to note if you have the FWD version is it flexes a lot even with my bike rack since it uses the tow loop on the right side as the anchor point and the frame beside the muffler for the left side.
 

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That's a valid comment, I remember having heard that before. On the AWD, when I did the curt install, you actually unbolt the tow ring and use longer bolts that come with the hitch to bolt back in. It's pretty damn solid and the hitch itself is now the tow point.

I actually have the tow ring with the 2 or 3 oem bolts floating around in my garage somewhere.

Also, there are adapters/couplers to go from the class 1 to class 3 that should be safe to use if you mind your tongue weight.
 

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That's a valid comment, I remember having heard that before. On the AWD, when I did the curt install, you actually unbolt the tow ring and use longer bolts that come with the hitch to bolt back in. It's pretty damn solid.

I actually have the tow ring with the 2 or 3 oem bolts floating around in my garage somewhere.
yeah the design for the AWD version is a lot better. it's too bad they didn't use the same chassis for the FWD Jukes
 

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I put a Class I Draw-Tite hitch from etrailer.com on my 2016 AWD, mostly for light use until my Bronco II is back in shape for towing. I couldn't find a Class II but honestly the Juke isn't really made for towing so a Class I is probably all there is unless you have one custom made. I've towed my 5x8 trailer that is 600lbs empty a few times with no real issues other than climbing hills; the car didn't want to get above 70mph even on a slight incline with about 1000lb total weight (trailer and cargo). I think that was more the CVT than the engine since my Bronco with only 140HP/160lb-ft and no turbo has done just fine with a similar load in the past.

The hitch itself was super easy to install; no drilling or cutting, just unbolt the tie down bracket and clean out the threads, and it bolts right in. You're supposed to remove the exhaust but I just removed one hanger and it dropped far enough to get the hitch in place. I did have to use a ratchet strap to hold one side of the hitch in place while I bolted up the other, but that's only because I have a bad shoulder and didn't have the strength to hold it while threading the bolts.

All of that to say that a good Class I hitch with the carrier linked by @Swiftab should get you going nicely.
 
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