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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to see if anyone has found any options for a high output alternator and where did u find it ???
Im running two sundown audio 15s in my juke and burning regulators like crazy .. Need at least a 220 amp
thanks in advance !!!!!!
 

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Good luck with anything bigger than stock fitting. The ECM controls the charging output of the alternator, and are considered the "smart charging" type of alternator. Keep that in mind when swapping out the alternator.
 

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I think NissanEgg is right, you most likely will not find a company building a HO alt that will fit like stock, best bet would be to contact Ohio Generators, mechman, or one of those other big companies, it would most likely be costly but they might be able to build you something.

I do also want to reiterate what NissanEgg said about the ECM controlling the output of the alt, I was big into audio in my 2010 altima coupe and I remember having some issues when it came to trying to get more power to my amp (would be able to get it to idle almost to 14V but as soon as I would move into gear and start driving around it seemed like the computer would pull it down to low 13's).
 

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valid point i never considered that !!! thank yall for the input
ohio and maechman will not touch them .. only company i have found that might possible do it
is singer alternators .. im waiting on a response from him today .. i will update if i hear anything
 

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valid point i never considered that !!! thank yall for the input
ohio and maechman will not touch them .. only company i have found that might possible do it
is singer alternators .. im waiting on a response from him today .. i will update if i hear anything

Yes, I forgot them, I have heard good things, hopefully they can help you out with some more info on it. Good luck!
 

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valid point i never considered that !!! thank yall for the input
ohio and maechman will not touch them .. only company i have found that might possible do it
is singer alternators .. im waiting on a response from him today .. i will update if i hear anything
So...any good news? ;-) I just kind of figured most Mechman alternators and those of similar design were custom fitted with one-off brackets for the installation. My thought was if one could be installed with custom brackets to keep the pulley alignment correct, it would still push a significant amount of amperage at 13.5 volts and keep the increased accessory load nice and happy.

I'm in need of a battery replacement anyway, and I'm looking at a DieHard Platinum/Odyssey 1500 or an XS Power 3400R next. I've had great luck with Optima units over the years and thought about a YellowTop, but this Juke is a keeper and I'd love to run the system in the background for an hour or so in the background while working on other stuff in the garage. A nice alternator to keep a bigger 34R battery juiced would be nice, especially since my daily drives are pretty short and I use a maintenance charger to keep the stock battery in good form.
 

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As far as the Alternator. How can 2 15's blow regulators. Power draw or Poorly regulated power draw burns up charging systems. Sounds like you are pushing too small an amp. Any Caps in the system?

I had 2500 REAL watts in my Juke with TWO 2 Farad caps in my system. I had a Red Top Optima as well.

Zero issues with the stock system in Normal use. Competition. No. Normal use. Perfectly fine.

As far as the battery choice. Get the largest CCA AMP unit you can fit. The juke has more space than you think for a bigger battery especially if you have a CAI.

I never thought about a Deep cycle and whether that would work for your situation. Or just get a Small Home Receiver and a decent Sub and two speakers.

A battery charger hooked up to your Juke can solve that issue too.
 

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The 3400R had been nice. It, like the Optima Yellow top, can have an open 13.1 volts. It's nice to be able to tune the system and look for rattles outside the bodyshell without having to idle it or have the hood open with a charger keeping the voltage up. I still use this Schumacher SC-1200A I got on Amazon. As I'm creating new test tones to work with, I spend a fair bit of time fiddling with the head unit and amp, trying to get the best trade-off. Will be a lot easier once I get a processor to reduce the amount crossovers and filters involved.

I typically like to top off the batteries once a month with a 3A charge. The Blazer has an Optima Red Top, and the Juke has the XS Power, so I leave the charger in AGM mode for both. Nice and straightforward. Also, I didn't think too much about using deep cycle batteries for starting, as I used to sell them years ago and they typically didn't deliver more than 400 CCA, but were great for boats and RVs (which is mostly what we sold them for).
 

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I checked that link out and I am suspect. The site dogs on rewound oem alternators and swapping cores, so it is definately not an oem unit. Will it work with the juke's "smart" regulation? I'm inclined to bet not. I would guess it's a standard alternator with a juke compatible housing slapped on it so it fits/mounts. Their wording is all pretty generic, never actually mentioning the juke in the product details, although they do say "nissan" specifically. For $400 (which is pretty cheap), might be worth trying if their return policy is willing to take it back if it ends up throwing codes or underperforming.

The hardest part would be actually measuring it's peak output in the short term in order to verify it is producing to claimed spec. Any robust audio system is going to have a capacitor, and even the oem alternator should be able to maintain voltage levels enough that it's not a valid metric for measurement. It would probably require watching an inline ammeter like a hawk to see if it actually puts out over 110. As previous discussions have dictated, even pulling that amount is hard to do and sustain from a measurement standpoint because it's always burst power usage on subs. To try to get the amp to kick out a constant 120+ amp for any amount of time so it can be measured would be hard to do without a dedicated test bench setup and equipment to put a constant draw on it.

So from that standpoint, I'd say only try it if you KNOW your audio system is drawing too much than oem can produce and you are ending up with dead batteries. This alternator would be a last ditch, hail mary to try after making sure you have robust power and grounds with good connections, distribution block, and a sufficient capacitor.
 

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As always. Spot on.

If it aint broke. Dont fix it.
 
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