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Not using Uprev, and yes e85 is possible, thats what's in the tank at the moment.

In regards to the engine build or the person needing info for the build the following applies to you buddy. I think its (Juke67)

Look for the guy on the juke forums that operates Fast Religion (CEO), Matthew Parrish. I believe that is his name if I'm not mistaken. He stays near the upper east tip of the USA sorta close to Michigan or somewhere around that area where you're currently fixed at. He has extensive first hand mechanical knowledge in regards to Juke engine assembly and can further assist you in your build. I think he does do actual machine shop work but Im not 100% sure on that. hope that helps buddy.
 

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Yeah, don't contact Matt:

 

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No this has been happening since I got the car in 2017 with 86,000 miles. The turbo and turbo supply line replacement is just added info so y’all know what has been done and the history of my vehicle. Been monitoring it and fighting it for awhile. Just wasnt sure if these juke are notorious for anything specific.
Per Pboglio and our conversation. Well we learned recently that the Fast Religion oil feed line should have a flow restrictor on it. It does not. So its very possible that the new line flow blew your turbo oil seal.
 

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The FR oil feed is actually a Vibrant oil feed line, if anyone was wondering. I paid it no mind until I was looking at the Mamba Oil feed/Water line kits that specifically mention a restrictor, and realized mine was completely missing a restrictor. I have no doubt it would have caused an oil burning/push problem if I didn't catch it. MHI journal bearing turbo don't like more than 40 psi oil pressure, the restrictor helps.

I also had a HUGE oil burn problem on my Subaru WRX STi, like smoke out the back. Ended up being the oil feed banjo filter completely clogged up, completely decimated the IHI VF39 turbo.
 

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Forgot to mention, on my cylinder head teardown what I found was a tremendous amount of oil residue right in the valve bowel and on the back of the intake valves. This is the area where the airflow turns past the valve into the engine. I don't recall having much oil consumption at all. The valve guide seals were fairly dried out. I'd suspect any high mileage Juke would start having issues with valve guide oil seal leakage. The oil fouling was so bad it was affecting airflow into the engine and heavily constricting the runners and valve backsides. This is not to be confused with carbon buildup as that looks a little bit different but also happens in combination with it. This is with Seafoam treatments (2) per year.

So if you are having this issue perhaps a topend rebuild is in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ran a compression test today after work with my new SnapOn Compression Tester. The results were #1) 172psi #2) 180psi #3) 174 psi #4) 161psi. According to specification, minimum is 170 psi. This to me is an indication of piston rings or valve stem seals. Inspected both compressor and exhaust side of turbo, no oil found from turbo. Looks like I’m gonna be rebuilding an MR16DDT, may just go Forged bottom end to support future mods. I’m open to thoughts, suggestions or advice. Wish me luck!
 

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Yes, #4 isn't good. Drop oil into #4 piston chamber, then re-run the test and see if the compression comes up.

Next, purchase a leak-down tester for a leakdown test. You will be looking for about 90-98% sealage, (100 psi feed, 90-98 psi hold). When you do this you can listen thru the coolant cap opening for headgasket failure, valve cover oil cap opening for valve seal and/or maybe piston ring seal, throttlebody for intake valve leaks, exhaust for exhaust valve leaks.

I've had in the past cylinders down quite a bit with a lot of carbon build up. Seafoam if it's good for anything it will get a decent amount of carbon off the piston rings and loosen them up. I've brought cylinder up 8-10 psi doing that repeatedly but it takes a couple applications. It's worth a shot before moving forward, if just to see if it is the rings.

If your tearing down the motor, then maybe not worth the effort. But it doesn't take much time.
 

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Well its gotta be rings then. If the compression was low because of bad valve / seat or two. He should have some misfires ? and oil would not blow by the valves.

Valve stems could be worn too but two quarts every 1500 miles worn ?

Still amazed that no smoke is coming out under hard accel.

Did you ever address the PCV valve ? If there is that much blow by then thats gotta be coated in oil ?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
At this point it kind of seems like it’s multiple issues causing the oil consumption. I have a valve cover gasket leak which is leaking outside the engine and in the spark plug tubes, low cylinder compression, and I do have some smoke (blueish-white) only on high accel and just about every cold start. I assume it’s a combination of the piston rings, valve stem seals and the valve cover leaking isn’t helping. This is the reason I’m choosing to rebuild. Plan on doing Forged bottom end, 2J lightweight crank pulley, freshly rebuilt OEM head, new oil pump, new timing chain and tensioners, Cometic head gasket and of course new PCV valve and spark plugs. I’m sure my valves are full of carbon build up but at this point I might as well build the engine to support mods seeing that I’m going to modify the vehicle. I’m starting to order all the parts and will keep this updated.
 

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Time to rebuild then...lol. I’d recommend replacing the valve springs too if you got the cash. Ask the head guy if they can do some pocket porting or bowel work, this head needs it. The RS oil pump is recommended, so are the RS rod bearings. The 2J pulley I wouldn’t do it. The crank needs some weight on that end. I ran it, didn’t like it and sold mine. On a built motor, I won’t go near it again for reliability reasons.
 
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