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2014 juke nismo rs fwd
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured I should probably start one of these before I get too far into the juke.

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Picked up a white 2014 nismo rs 6spd with 55k miles in May of 2021 telling myself that getting a cuv was going to prevent me from turning it into a track car and I would just keep it a reliable daily. If you've read the title of this thread you'll see how that worked for me.

Things started off with the usual handling improvements for a fwd car, a cusco rear lower bar, camber bolts up front to get -2 degrees of camber for more front end cornering grip, more aggressive brake pads (Hawk hp+), a saikou michi pcv side oil catch can, better summer tires (225/45/r18 advan apex v601)

After that I took the juke to it's first real track event, a local time attack series event at a track called Pineview Run in Lafayette, NY. This day revealed a number of things that would need to be addressed if I planned to continue tracking the juke.

First and foremost was that I would need a wider stickier tire. I knew this going in but was still surprised by just how easily even with a limited slip diff the juke wanted to roast the front tires out if every corner. (Likely due to a combination of factors that I'll get to.)

Second would be the excessive body roll and pitch due to a combination of the high center of gravity, street tuned damping + springs, and some likely quite clapped out rubber bushings.

Third and most concerning would be the braking issues I experienced. With the more aggressive pads and limited grip of the 225 summer tires it was almost a guarantee to reach the ABS threshold in many of the braking zones. This eventually led to a christmas tree of lights on the dash and abs shutdown into the sketchiest corner on the track a blind crest into a downhill braking zone followed by a 180 degree turn. Notably a very new 992 carrera had sent it through the hay bales on the outside of this corner in the warm up morning session. When ABS failed in the juke only the rear locked as there is very little weight over the rear while trail braking into a downhill corner and as you do when your car rips the ebrake unexpectedly, you go full spin cycle. I got lucky and managed to keep it on track. This is the ABS code I kept getting from repeatedly reaching ABS threshold and having it ultimately shut down.

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I have a few theories on why this occurred primarily related to the dramatic weight transfer while braking (high CoG, low spring rates/damping) when combined with brake pads of an increased coefficient of friction and relatively massive rear rotor size compared to most fwd hot hatches or especially fwd race cars. For example the civic type r TCR uses a 380mm front with a 260mm rear disc while the juke nismo rs uses 320mm front and ~290mm rear discs. Obviously there are other factors than just rotor diameter in determining brake bias however I have yet to find a fwd vehicle with a more rearward mechanical brake bias than the rs. Of course I could also be full of **** and just have wheel bearing flex messing with the wheel speed sensors etc. it's a forum so take it as you will.

Some life changes this fall led to a move to Pittsburgh and finally having a garage space of my own to work with opening up a whole new world of ways to piss off my neighbors.

My order of operations/ to do list for making the juke quick on track tentatively goes something like this.

1. Every bushing possible
2. Adjust the brake bias with oem rear pads
3. Suspension (bc racing ds with swift springs)
4. A little more bracing
5. External oil cooler
5a. Carbon removal from valves and route a better catch can setup
6. Proper track wheels and tires
7. Weight reduction
8. Jdm nismo hotboi carbon parts
9. Sell oem Recaros for fixed back Recaros
10. Bolt ons (nismo intake, forge IC, downpipe, midpipe, nissan motorsports 3in catback if they still exist in the wild? uprev tune, recirc valve, etc)
11. Water injection? (Cooling and anti carbon build up)
69. Hotboi carbon hatch mount swan neck?
420. Tubular slrspeed control arms to help correct roll center (this will probably happen before a few other things but seeing as I just refreshed my arms with ball joints, superpro poly bushings and a fresh coat of paint I don't want to drop 900 on lcas immediately, also they might mess with my scca time trials classing)

As of writing this I'm somewhere in the midst of 1-4 on the list. A whole bunch of bushings, subframe collars etc going in. Found a few bushings I haven't seen mentioned on the site yet. Pics of the install and part #'s coming soon. Waiting on coilovers ordered in the beginning of February and a couple more cusco braces coming soon.

If you actually read that whole thing color me impressed and slightly concerned for your well being, more coming soon.

-Has
 

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I would highly suggest reading Nissaneggs build thread. All of it.


He had an oh **** moment here.

 

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2014 juke nismo rs fwd
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would highly suggest reading Nissaneggs build thread. All of it.


He had an oh **** moment here.

Yeah thanks for the link, I'm a new member but not particularly new to the forum. I've probably read all nearly 20 pages at least a couple times. He and I have Instagram dmed about the braking issue a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Been working on bushing replacement lately, just finished up under the front end and going to drop the rear beam.

I removed lower control arms, pulled the old bushings and ball joints out, painted the arms and installed new ball joints and superpro poly bushings front and rear, you can find the part no. For the full kit on the AU site but only one bushing shows up on the US site unless you search the part #. Here's the finished product.
Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Tread Hubcap


Next I dropped the subframe and removed the subframe bushings. The easiest way to get these out is by heating the metal sleeves to boil, not burn the rubber and they'll fall right out. I wire wheeled the whole thing and painted with por15, installed poly subframe bushings and cut some old fastreligion subframe inserts to fit under the longer than factory poly bushes effectively giving full solid poly subframe bushes. Also installed the Spoon rigid collar kit and cusco front lower arm bar. Front subframe and bushings are all done now, just waiting on my coilovers to show up. Threw in a couple powerflex torque mount inserts, not sure they'll be doing much but they were cheap.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Latest update, front suspension is all put back together until coilovers show up (hopefully next week).

Got the rear beam pulled out a couple nights ago since I'm replacing the two bushings that hold it in. Interesting how nissan routed the rear brake hardlines through a bracket welded to the beam. Unfortunately the whiteline/nolathane bushing part # that seemed like it would work ended up being 10mm too short so I'll have to get some alternate inner sleeves turned. Awesome customer service from whiteline on helping me make the bushing work though.
Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tread


Oem rear beam bushings looking pretty worn and very flimsy after 50k miles. Should stiffen up the whole rear end and help eliminate some lateral loading on the damper shafts/seals.
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Final part of the update being that my track wheels and tires showed up and are looking meaty. Went with 18x9 +42 enkei pf09 in matte gunmetal, wrapped in 255/40 falken azenis rt660. Should have effectively the same outer diameter as stock to keep the spedo happy. Can't put the car on the ground yet but fitment is looking promising.
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That's all for now, off to use some aggression on these stock bushings and call around to machine shops.
 

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Looking good.

I just got some RS control arms off Amazon. Plan is to rebuild my current ones and save the Beck and Arnley as OEM spares.


 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Haven't been on here in a while and it's been a lot of setbacks the last few weeks but the car is finally on the ground. Finishing up a few final pieces, waiting on a couple packages from Nissan and RHDJapan.

Currently working on mounting up a greddy 13 row oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate. Oil cooler core is getting mounted in front of the driver side wheel well behind a conveniently placed removable block off plate in the nismo/rs bumper.

Trunk Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Gas


Now to the issues I was having. The rear beam axle bushings from whiteline fit into the beam however they are 10mm short in length. Talked with whiteline and they were very apologetic for advertising the wrong fitment apparently these bushings fit the cube rear beam brackets. Whiteline sent out a rod of polyurethane material that I ended up turning spacers out of to make up the 10mm gap. However the amount of flex from the much less dense and smaller diameter poly spacers I turned were allowing more flex than it seemed the stock bushings had.

Then reached out to a friend with access to a more complete machine shop who was able to turn some delrin/acetal spacers that I drew up in freeCAD that would nest inside the flanged end of the bushing. This increased the flange contact area between bushing and mounting bracket and the delrin should provide a slight lubricating effect while eliminating lateral deflection.


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Next came the coilover install and the associated issues. I went with BC racing DS coilovers for the digressive damping and with 9k front and rear swift springs. Ultimately the increased spring rate and 6in rear spring ended up lifting the rear of the car to a 2in+ wheel gap even when lowered to the maximum and creating a significant rake which would've led to a very light rear end. Ended up ordering a 5in swift spring for the rear to correct ride height, unfortunately the closest rate available before mid summer was a 12k. This might end up being overkill for the car and possibly the dampers but only testing will tell. Was able to bring ride height back in to the range of usable adjustment.

*Side note for anyone installing coilovers on a juke. The inner edge of the wheel well/outer edge of the frame rail is offset differently side to side. So there will be a greater amount of space between the non drive side damper and body than the drive side.

Installed a couple small parts while I was waiting on rear bushing spacers and the 5in springs.

- Picked up some steel braided goodridge brake lines for $150 for the full set of 6 lines for the fwd jukes and did a full flush with new motul rbf600.

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- Sourced a shifter bushing replacement that ultimately needed to be significantly modified and placed in a 3d printed sleeve to fit but has removed some shifter play.

Hand Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Finger


- Installed a fidanza short shift kit that seems to be a replica of the now defunct twm shifter for the 07-12 sentra se-r spec V. Not sure if I will be keeping it installed, TBD.

- Installed the cusco front strut bar, now has all the cusco braces made for the juke, if only they made a plated diff for our transmission.



This week I will be finishing up the mounting brackets, ducting, and AN lines for the oil cooler as well as installing mesh in the bumper opening and fender liner exit to protect the oil cooler from debris.

First track day that I will be realistically taking it to is coming right up in the beginning of June with a number of events following. hope to include some time trials/time attack. Looking to get out to an autox next weekend and make sure nothing comes loose before hitting triple digits on the back "straight" at Pittrace.

Here's the juke as it sits.
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Provided the first couple events proceed without issue I'll be likely moving on to weight reduction and picking up some slrspeed control arms to correct the roll center now that the juke is significantly lower than nissan intended.
 

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Looking Good.

You can do the front sway bar bushings.

I just got done pretty much what you have except I got the front control arm bushings done. Spoons and inserts. BC coil overs etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looking Good.

You can do the front sway bar bushings.

I just got done pretty much what you have except I got the front control arm bushings done. Spoons and inserts. BC coil overs etc.
Very nice, the Spoon collars help but the FR subframe inserts don't do much if you're still on the stock rubber bushings in my experience. PSB makes a press in poly bushing that replaces the flimsy factory rubber bushes that have about a half inch worth of rubber with a full poly sleeve. It was a pain to do though. You have to fully drop the subframe and boil the factory rubber out with a torch. I ended up combining the PSB poly bushings and the FR inserts to make a solid poly sleeve in the subframe bushing tubes.

I thought about sway bar bushes but ended up just lubing up my factory ones, not really needing to increase front end roll stiffness with the 9k front springs and aggressive damping as that would just make it want to understeer more.

I went with superpro lca bushes to start with but thinking I'll probably end up going to slrspeed tubular arms that a couple people have to help correct the suspension geometry.

For the coilovers in the rear I got some extenders from BC and ran them through a small hole I drilled in the trunk paneling to be able to adjust them without having to cram a hand in the tiny strut top mount access hole.
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That new turbo setup of yours looks like it's making some very solid power.
 

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I didnt think they made the FCA anymore.


The Juke drives like a dream now. Even after all the mods to make it harsher. She is still smooth.

I thought about the extender but I wont use it enough.

If you are going to long track it. I would def go with a big turbo. The top end it unreal. I am not sure how the RS gearing would do with a Mamba since they have so much torque at 3000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didnt think they made the FCA anymore.


The Juke drives like a dream now. Even after all the mods to make it harsher. She is still smooth.

I thought about the extender but I wont use it enough.

If you are going to long track it. I would def go with a big turbo. The top end it unreal. I am not sure how the RS gearing would do with a Mamba since they have so much torque at 3000 rpm.
I'd definitely be interested in a larger turbo at some point in the future but for the classes I'm looking to run in I'll have to stay with stock turbo limited to bolt ons.
 

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So stock turbo. Can that be a 21T Mamba or turbo OEM wheel ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
"OEM (single turbo, or single supercharger only) forced induction vehicles under 1.6L are allowed when using completely stock turbocharger and exhaust manifolds, as equipped on that specific VIN chassis. Intercoolers and charge piping may be modified."

Unfortunately fully stock, most of the other cars are k swap Hondas, s2000s, l15 turbo civic si, etc.
 

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"OEM (single turbo, or single supercharger only) forced induction vehicles under 1.6L are allowed when using completely stock turbocharger and exhaust manifolds, as equipped on that specific VIN chassis. Intercoolers and charge piping may be modified."

Unfortunately fully stock, most of the other cars are k swap Hondas, s2000s, l15 turbo civic si, etc.
Well that aint fair. At least you are at the 1.6 limit.

IC Pipes and IC upgrade. Reduce weight and remove any restrictions. One thing we have not discussed here on the forum is top end with upgrades. With your blunt end. You will need all the help you can get at top speed.

Of all the mods I have installed. This is the best one in conjunction with them all. In other words. Install what you have, drive, and then put this in. If you havent already.

Gas Engineering Machine Auto part Cylinder

Gas Cylinder Metal Nickel Pipe



BTW.

Oem rear beam bushings looking pretty worn and very flimsy after 50k miles. Should stiffen up the whole rear end and help eliminate some lateral loading on the damper shafts/seals.

I looked at mine and at 12k miles they are "Shot" The rubber is just torn. What a waste. Never driven in salt or heat or anything. Rain total at 6 times.

Your Delrin mod looks great.

Have you tuned it yet ?

Are you in Pa since you are going to Pittrace?

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Haven't tuned it yet, still on factory everything but if I end up sticking with the juke for a track car I imagine I'll have to address a few things very soon.

Unfortunately you're not allowed to open the head either.

Yeah I'm in the Pittsburgh area, I'll definitely be at Pittrace a few times this year. Hoping to also get to summit point, nelson ledges, mid ohio and a couple more further to the Northeast.
 

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Unfortunately you're not allowed to open the head either.
Head?

Just tuning would be an amazing change. Higher top end without the factory limit and way more power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My bad, misunderstood and thought you were talking about cams and valve springs. Yeah hopefully a tune in the near future. Still working out some alignment issues with getting the rear end aligned side to side since the whole beam and brackets were off.

Oil cooler is almost done, might have to do a little bit of clearancing around the sandwich plate its looking like.

Once I finish up the suspension I'll likely be in need of a downpipe and intercooler.
 

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Most sandwich plates require modification somehow.

FR has the nicest DP. It will come with a High flo street legal CAT. He has the frame mount as well. He also uses flex joints.

I would go with a FR / Mishimoto style IC too. 2Js is way to big. Insanely big.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ran 2 track days and a time trial in the last 2 weeks, haven't had any real issues yet. Ended up swapping to oem rear pads due to the jukes ridiculous rear brake bias always causing sketchy abs moments with very little brake force. I'm now able to brake considerably harder and the rear of the car isn't twitching around like before. Running high friction front pads ~0.6mu and guessing the factory pads are ~0.35mu. No problems overheating brakes in 15-20 minute sessions, running brand new rbf600 and goodridge lines the pedal is firm and consistent all session.

If I decide to continue tracking the juke and get more conpetitive in classing I'm going to have to make some aero improvements and start looking for more usable torque on corner exit as that's the juke's only advantage on a k swapped 90s honda which makes up most of the class. With stock power and aero it really seems to hit an aerodynamic wall just over 80mph that I have some thoughts on how to improve but I imagine is largely down to the large frontal area, lack of much air direction/ducting, and complete lack of undertray.

Oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate have been great so far. The greddy/grex type E M20x1.5 plate bolts up no clearancing needed, I also added a hose clamp safety wired to a bracket as extra insurance to prevent the filter and plate backing off. Done 2 track days with the oil cooler and engine bay temps are noticeably lower, I'm also up to 6qt of oil volume now which I'm sure helps.
 

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Its still crazy that they can K Swap and you are limited with what you can do engine wise.

That being said. You need to tune obviously. To get around 270+ whp and wtq on the Juke oem turbo will certainly help what you feel as a lack of aero. I am sure it is but more power cures a lot. The extra torque a tune gives you especially if you have it tuned for race fuel will be amazing. 1 octane is around 5ish wtq on the oem ? 110 octane sounds awesome. I know a friend of mine in the early days of Juke tuning. They did a 50/50 tank of VP race fuel (5 gallon can) and 93 oct. The tuner got 25whp and 25wtq over the max tune before the CVT started not liking it.
 
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