Figured I'd start a new thread for my pending engine rebuild.
Backstory:
My mighty Juke AWD went down back in September 2018 due to age and modding and the end result was a wasted CVT transmission. You guys might have followed my CVT thread over the last 8 months. It probably was a 2 month build w/6 months of sitting around thinking, redesigning, getting quotes from machine shops, etc. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, it was a solid 10. Few parts were readily available to order. I modified and custom upgraded the transmission where there weren't parts available. Well, having 80,000 miles on the engine doesn't make sense to slap a nearly brand new CVT rebuild on it.
Goal:
Now many are thinking: Why a built motor on a CVT? I mean, the OE CVT at most can hold 260-280 lb-ft before having some serious reliability problems long term. I've owned my Juke AWD CVT since 2012 and I'm aware of the limits of the CVT. It's sobering how limited the CVT is BUT it's not unlike the EVOX 5 spd vs. 6spd DSG debate. Those DSG owners embraced the torque limitations and what the benefits of having a rapid shifting automatic offered. The CVT isn't that different when you think about it. The advantage of having a nice torque vectoring AWD automatic is hard to give up. For what I do and how I drive, I like me a nice modded AWD automatic. My other toys are a modded 2015 EVO X Final Edition and 2005 WRX STi waiting on a rebuilt engine. Nothing new I'm interested that is as quick and still has the hatchback/CUV form factor without costing a mint. I've looked at the Kona 2.0L w/DSG, probably the closest thing out there I like.
A built motor might appear completely overkill. But if you think about it, the cost to upgrade the motor vs. a standard rebuild/refurb is only about $1500 more. I'm 80k miles into my original engine, making the rebuild choice a tough one. The existing engine block, oil pan upper case, crankshaft, cylinder head all can easily be refurbished for a rebuild without any issue. A bare engine was going to run me about $4850 w/core exchange + $250 shipping. A shortblock maybe $2100, though also needing another $1500 in OE parts to make it reliable. The rebuilt stock engine with FULL upgrades (NOT bolt-on parts) is running around $3500 in parts at this point, with machine shop labor ~$4,500. The bolt-on parts will probably add another $3k-$4k as well. I already have the 19T turbo upgrade, Injen 3" catback, and ECUTek software I'm not counting since I bought those 6 years ago.
Couple points: I'll be running the RS rod bearings and stock main bearings. I was going to try the ACL bearings (5M2905H-STD) but 2J seem to have good luck with the OE mains. They recommended the RS Oil pump and I'm going with that with a Setrab external engine oil cooler. The Cometic head gasket is probably overkill but it's another 2J recommend. To allow enough airflow thru the front FMIC core, I'm switching to the RS front bumper cover and possibly the RS rear hatch spoiler to balance things out cosmetically. My boost controller will be electronic since I hate the programmed boost curves on the ECUTek reflashes......old school but it works.
Power goals are simple: 300 h.p./265 lb-ft @ crank. Maybe 280 h.p./257 lb-ft for daily driving.
Parts List:
The parts to support this are a LONG list which partially is listed below.
- Cometic Head Gasket
- 2J Forged pistons
- 2J Forged connecting rods
- RS rod bearings
- OE main bearings
- OE head bolts
- OE main bolts
- RS oil pump
- Water pump
- Honed/Hot Tanked Engine Block (decked)
- Rebuilt Head (Multiangle valve job, new guides & seals, decked)
- 2J Racing 255LPH in-tank fuel pump
- OE high pressure fuel pump
- Flowed/balanced Fuel injectors
- ECUTek retuning (MAF scaling/fuel trims, higher pump pressures, etc.)
- Exhaust manifold (light port work, Swain white lightning coated)
- Mambatek 19T turbo upgrade
- Mambatek upgraded wastegate actuator
- Mambatek TD04L 9 blade turbine wheel retrofit
- GTM 2.5" S.S. downpipe
- Fast Religion 2.5" testpipe w/flex (Swain white lightning coated)
- Injen 3" catback
- 2J Racing FMIC w/crash bar
- Injen Upper I.C. pipes (red wrinkle coated)
- Synapse Diverter Valve
- Injen 3" CAI
- Injen turbo inlet pipe
- Mambatek 2.5" compressor inlet
- RS front bumper cover
- Upgraded CVT (my rebuild/upgrade)
- Setrab CVT cooler with fanpack
- Setrab Engine Oil cooler
Backstory:
My mighty Juke AWD went down back in September 2018 due to age and modding and the end result was a wasted CVT transmission. You guys might have followed my CVT thread over the last 8 months. It probably was a 2 month build w/6 months of sitting around thinking, redesigning, getting quotes from machine shops, etc. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, it was a solid 10. Few parts were readily available to order. I modified and custom upgraded the transmission where there weren't parts available. Well, having 80,000 miles on the engine doesn't make sense to slap a nearly brand new CVT rebuild on it.
Goal:
Now many are thinking: Why a built motor on a CVT? I mean, the OE CVT at most can hold 260-280 lb-ft before having some serious reliability problems long term. I've owned my Juke AWD CVT since 2012 and I'm aware of the limits of the CVT. It's sobering how limited the CVT is BUT it's not unlike the EVOX 5 spd vs. 6spd DSG debate. Those DSG owners embraced the torque limitations and what the benefits of having a rapid shifting automatic offered. The CVT isn't that different when you think about it. The advantage of having a nice torque vectoring AWD automatic is hard to give up. For what I do and how I drive, I like me a nice modded AWD automatic. My other toys are a modded 2015 EVO X Final Edition and 2005 WRX STi waiting on a rebuilt engine. Nothing new I'm interested that is as quick and still has the hatchback/CUV form factor without costing a mint. I've looked at the Kona 2.0L w/DSG, probably the closest thing out there I like.
A built motor might appear completely overkill. But if you think about it, the cost to upgrade the motor vs. a standard rebuild/refurb is only about $1500 more. I'm 80k miles into my original engine, making the rebuild choice a tough one. The existing engine block, oil pan upper case, crankshaft, cylinder head all can easily be refurbished for a rebuild without any issue. A bare engine was going to run me about $4850 w/core exchange + $250 shipping. A shortblock maybe $2100, though also needing another $1500 in OE parts to make it reliable. The rebuilt stock engine with FULL upgrades (NOT bolt-on parts) is running around $3500 in parts at this point, with machine shop labor ~$4,500. The bolt-on parts will probably add another $3k-$4k as well. I already have the 19T turbo upgrade, Injen 3" catback, and ECUTek software I'm not counting since I bought those 6 years ago.
Couple points: I'll be running the RS rod bearings and stock main bearings. I was going to try the ACL bearings (5M2905H-STD) but 2J seem to have good luck with the OE mains. They recommended the RS Oil pump and I'm going with that with a Setrab external engine oil cooler. The Cometic head gasket is probably overkill but it's another 2J recommend. To allow enough airflow thru the front FMIC core, I'm switching to the RS front bumper cover and possibly the RS rear hatch spoiler to balance things out cosmetically. My boost controller will be electronic since I hate the programmed boost curves on the ECUTek reflashes......old school but it works.
Power goals are simple: 300 h.p./265 lb-ft @ crank. Maybe 280 h.p./257 lb-ft for daily driving.
Parts List:
The parts to support this are a LONG list which partially is listed below.
- Cometic Head Gasket
- 2J Forged pistons
- 2J Forged connecting rods
- RS rod bearings
- OE main bearings
- OE head bolts
- OE main bolts
- RS oil pump
- Water pump
- Honed/Hot Tanked Engine Block (decked)
- Rebuilt Head (Multiangle valve job, new guides & seals, decked)
- 2J Racing 255LPH in-tank fuel pump
- OE high pressure fuel pump
- Flowed/balanced Fuel injectors
- ECUTek retuning (MAF scaling/fuel trims, higher pump pressures, etc.)
- Exhaust manifold (light port work, Swain white lightning coated)
- Mambatek 19T turbo upgrade
- Mambatek upgraded wastegate actuator
- Mambatek TD04L 9 blade turbine wheel retrofit
- GTM 2.5" S.S. downpipe
- Fast Religion 2.5" testpipe w/flex (Swain white lightning coated)
- Injen 3" catback
- 2J Racing FMIC w/crash bar
- Injen Upper I.C. pipes (red wrinkle coated)
- Synapse Diverter Valve
- Injen 3" CAI
- Injen turbo inlet pipe
- Mambatek 2.5" compressor inlet
- RS front bumper cover
- Upgraded CVT (my rebuild/upgrade)
- Setrab CVT cooler with fanpack
- Setrab Engine Oil cooler