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Discussion Starter · #821 ·
The charger has current limiting which is why it’s used. If there is voltage sensing added to the external circuit I could trick it, don’t know for sure until I try it bIt I’m conferring with my controls engineer at work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #822 ·
OK, found this guy. Simple12V charger with 10amp option. Probably just return the Harbor Freight one and get this.

 
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You need a CC (constant current) power supply like storm trooper said above. That will allow you to set a current limit. The charger you have is a CV (constant voltage), which sets a voltage limit, and allows the source to drain as much current (up to the max rating of the charger) as it needs based on its resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #824 · (Edited)
Yep, thanks for all the feeback guys. Plenty helpful. Definitely need a constant current charger.

Ordered the Century CK3154-1 charger today which is a simple manual 12V/10 amp charger for $128 shipped, should get here next week. The Harbor Freight charger is getting returned. I'll wire up everything next week and do a trial run. Need to order up some steel plate and wood to support the subframe with a custom external hanging support frame. I'll walk thru that build process but it's pretty simple.

Got some work to do on the CVT transmission now that the other stuff is under-way. Ordering up the Neway 80* valve seat carbide cutter to clearance the internal bore on the primary shaft for the custom 4130 reinforced clutch drum insert. I need to SLA a prototype fixture for the pilot cutter and I should be good to go.

We now have our updated 3D-printers at work with both FormLabs 3 SLA and Stratasys F123 FDM. The money we are saving on not going to the outside for SLA prototypes is insane. ROI probably 3-6 months for our engineering group. Entire machine costs $5700 with the SLA, alcohol bath, and UV curing station and definitely within a DYI/small business budget. Material costs are about $199 to $299 per liter. We tried one of the Prusa desktop FDM machines as a backup machine. It was so unreliable we had to return it. We then replaced/traded our old Stratasys FDM machine which was reaching the end of it's life and bought a newer Stratsys F123 FDM with option to run carbon fiber filled materials. I have to say a very nice machine for an FDM if you know where to use FDM parts and their strengths/weaknesses. I ran the ABS/chopped carbon fiber the other day and was shocked how strong/stiff it is compared to unfilled ABS and very accurate as FDM tend to be. The SLA also has options for the Tough 2K (ABS like) and the Rigid 4k (Nylon 10% GF like).
 

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Discussion Starter · #825 · (Edited)
Just got the Century charger, very nice quality. Feels like a Lincoln welder and a huge difference in quality over the Harbor Freight charger. I'll throw some pics up shortly.

Also receiving today the Hitachi throttlebody (ETB0037) from RockAuto, direct OEM supplier to Nissan. Nothing wrong with the original t-body but basically the goal was to replace all electronic components/sensors under the hood and this was the last component left. Cost was $277 vs. $500 from the dealership, same part basically except with the Nissan logo. This'll allow me to finish up the engine cooling hose routing to the turbocharger & t-body so that the cooling circuit is then buttoned up. Along with that I'm also getting the 4-port CVT oil cooler from RockAuto from the Jeep Chariot/Nissan Rogue (68025160AA) @ $230. I can debate saving big money by buying an ebay CVT oil cooler for $56 but the consequences of an oil/coolant intermix leak is not a good one with a $4,000 upgraded CVT. These ebay/amazon coolers do tend to leak externally and I have zero confidence in them keeping an internal cross leakage between the braze joints from occuring which would be catastrophic. As this thread has illustrated I simply buy the best I can afford where it's critical as I don't have time to test every component to failure to prove the cheap junk is worth it, to me it's not worth the risk.

I'm looking at the Setrab fanpack oil cooler to go with that 4-port CVT oil/coolant cooler. Again, cheap coolers are not for me though I've used them in the past they won't go near my Juke. The multi-pass coolers have a higher internal pressure drop vs. the single pass/multi-row coolers and this is what I intend to run as the oil flow rate would tend to be higher with the latter. I'm probably going to start with the Series 1 (19row) single 12V fanpack ($289) version just because of space contraint issues and locate it in the stock FMIC location which should easily fit. I mention way back about having a baffle plate to block incoming air from bypassing the new FMIC and that will probably need to be fabricated above the Setrab cooler. Probably not enough cooling capacity for max effort track driving but for now a decent space holder for street driving. This'll still be leagues more cooling than a stock CVT and far better than a non-fan cooler. I'll throw in a thermostat housing in-line and it'll be good to go. Still debating thermo-stat temp settings but the oil thermostat & fan-pack thermostat will have to coordinate to set the final oil temps. Cold oil temps are not good for oil pump cavitation and lubrication along with sucking up engine power, so a happy middle ground is needed.

In terms of CVT cooler ducting I have options now with sheetmetal or 3d-printed options and at some point I'll have them professionally fabricated but for this year I'm slapping it together quickly before the winter hits. I've found ducting to hugely improve heat exchanger performance especially with pressure sealing gaskets/tape between the core & duct. The larger Series 9 (20 row) w/dual fanpack is going to be a really tight fit but in terms of BTu/hr capacity the better system. As I mentioned in the CVT thread I had a design for a compact Laminova oil/coolant system with very high thermal capacity but it required a custom machined CVT oil housing adapter and for now that is going on the backburner as I have higher priorities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #826 ·
Some pics of the Hitachi throttlebody ETB0037 from RockAuto. Exact OEM part. You can see they grind off the Renault & Nissan logo for non-Nissan resale but the SKU matches the OEM. Manufacturing is located in Thailand. Beats spending $674-$774 at the dealership vs $277 @ RockAuto.

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Good price for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #828 · (Edited)
Little bit sparse with the posts. I've been slammed hardcore at work with NPD projects and I'm close to releasing my designs for injection molding tooling in the next month or two so it's been hectic at work. I have some very cool functional prototypes made from the FormLabs SLA Rigid 4K material, essentially a glass filled reinforced resin. Currently undergoing engineering validation trials.

About a few weeks back I realized I would have no chance to get the Juke running before winter, I'm just too busy at work to even look at the Juke. So at this point I'll just be plugging away during the winter as best I can to wrap-up the transmission and suspension as those really are the areas I need to focus on.

Anyhow, some small progress getting the new throttlebody installed and the coolant lines routed to the turbo CHRA to complete all that. The best thing I did was buy those little "red" caps to remind me that hey I didn't connect something. There are a few electrical connectors that are hanging there but that's because the coilpacks, sparkplugs, etc. are pulled so I can fog the engine periodically and of course the transmission isn't connected yet.

Not much left on the engine: waiting on a vacuum brake booster hard line needing a repaint & install, t-body charge pipe needs to be wrinkle painted red & the hitachi pressure sensor installed with the Synapse DV. Also have to custom fabricate & weld an aluminum 3" MAF/Intake pipe. This I've procrastinated on but it's gotta get done. This'll be my little winter welding project so I'm gonna take my time with that. Need a catted mid-pipe as the test-pipe I have isn't going to cut-it for emissions. I'll repurpose my older 3" Injen testpipe and add a flex section & GESI highflow cat to it. Building the jig for it will be fun. Have to get my Argon tanks for the TIG and then get some practice, amongst the other things I got going on so it'll take me awhile.

Being that I'm running my EVO X as my daily it wasn't exactly ready for the winter. To that end I had to finally break down & spend some decent coin & got some new 18 x 8.5 (30mm offset) gunmetal wheels (Flow One Race Spec F3) and Verdestein Wintrac Pro 235/40R18 tires for the EVO X. For the same money I probably could have got some lighter Enkeis but they'll work plenty good enough. At some point these might make it over to the Juke with some summer tires swapped over as a cheap little upgrade and should help clearance the upcoming brake upgrade I have planned.

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Discussion Starter · #829 ·
Well, so while I have some time to think a few things over I've reviewed my tuning options. Currently I'm running ECUTek with an older tune for a Stage 1 bolt-on's or basically a generic tune. It's good enough for street driving but not going to be now with all the major engine upgrades.

Called AMS Motorsports out by me and they are a no go for the Juke. P&L Tuning same deal, won't touch it but I might use them again for 4wd baseline/tuned dyno runs. So I found RogueArtTuning out in Florida that are doing the B17 & Juke MR16DDT applications. Seems like they do some nice work on the WRX, STi, BRZ and the like but also tuned a few B17 and Jukes as well. I might have to accept the remote tuning option and try and make it work that way.

RogueArtTuning:
 
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Remember Uprev is still a no go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #831 ·
I'm sticking with ECUTek for now. Given the current situation with UpRev it makes no sense to switch. If I can get a good solid updated tune I'll go that way. Hadn't had any major issues with ECUTek other than a "forced" ProECU software update which caused me to have existing maps updated/converted by Visconti which was a major pain. Now I just avoid connecting to the internet so that doesn't happend again. If the remote tuning goes well that'll be a big advantage cause I don't have time to make the trip out to Florida just for a dyno session. Still looking for shops in the Illinois/Wisconsin/Indiana region so if I find someone close I'll go that route. Car is a little bit different being a built CVT it's not going to be a cooky cutter tune so a dyno tune is preferred.
 
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