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Discussion Starter · #761 ·
Might be my problem. The wiring harness has zip tied anchors, sometimes they are slipped on the wrong spot so everything get's shifted. I gotta shift that guy over and should give me the extra slack and we are in business. Gonna leave it for the weekend as that was kinda a frustrating install.
 

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I am sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #763 · (Edited)
Whilst I'm waiting on some stuff I've been testing some different painting systems (i.e. paints, primers, & media blasting).

If you build a vehicle eventually at some point you'll have to paint something. I tried just about everything now in terms of paint. Kind of shocked I can't easily paint something as simple as a zinc galvanized plated bracket but kind of found out it ain't so easy even for the pros. I'll post up some of my paint failures but it has been massively frustrating. Below is a link with some tips for painting galavanized parts.


My initial instinct to vapor hone polish all of the aluminum engine & parts and leave the engine naked was now probably the better move. Lot's of new factory parts I bought were already new aluminum or black factory painted so I left that stuff alone as it didn't need finishing. I also didn't attempt to paint the plastic valve cover or intake manifold as it's hard to strip paint off plastic if the paint doesn't workout. However, all of the little metal brackets and hard vac lines are perfect for painting and better than leaving them rusted. The Cerakote ceramic coating I covered in detail previously, no issues with that. The high temp engine acrylic/ceramic enamels are useful when a very tough/scratch resistant coating is needed with a temp requirement of 550*F though many times it's not needed.

For plastic parts such as: valve covers, Intake manifolds, engine covers, etc. I found an excellent paint & finally tested the VHT (SP820 Matte Black) High Temperature Plastic Paint (200*F). It says matte black but actually comes out gloss black. It uses a built-in paint adhesion promoter compound that produces a very tight surface bond and doesn't require primer or sanding prep & actually recommends against it. Cures hard in about 48 hours though it's a good idea to give it a solid 7-day air cure. Has very good scratch resistance but not as surface hard as the ceramic engine enamels.

For metal engine parts I'm still liking this VHT High temp plastic paint and currently testing it on a zinc plated component so we'll see. Tried all of the VHT and Duplicolor High temp ceramic engine enamels and they are flaking off and I can't control it even with self-etching primers. I'm needing more of a ductile/flexible paint and these ceramic enamels are extremely hard/brittle. I'm also testing some cheap Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel but the drying time is like 7-10 days though it's actually starting to look promising. Some basic scratch tests and bolt/washer torque test will be conducted to see how the paint holds up. Generally "enamels" cure with a hard/durable surface finish but there are many different formulations and so it all has to be tested. The VHT engine paints cure about 4x-5x faster but a good 1 week is safe for use.

Yeah, so the recommended drying times on the paint can......forget that. If it say 24 hours, it's 5-7 days. The Rustoleum was supposed to be dry in 24-48 hrs but I'm seeing more like 7-10 days if not 2 weeks before I can even install a part with it coated.

What went wrong with my painting system?

So I'm thinking what I did wrong was I attempted to oven cure my high temp enamels and the primer coats right after painting. I also didn't topcoat @ 30 minutes after applying the primer coat, need to start doing that. I got this oven curing in my head when first using the VHT Wrinkle coat & I kept on doing it. That paint was very ductile so heat curing wasn't an issue and recommended. Took about 2-4 weeks to fully harden but still flexible/ductile. The engine enamels on the other hand they just get rock hard and seem to flake/chip off if impacted on an edge. Also, the typical average rattle can acrylic enamel spray paint simply can't tolerate fast curing times and actually lifts/wrinkles anything about 95*-120*F if it's still wet/tacky, found that out the hard way on a part. In small print they even say to air dry cure for 7 days first before oven curing and in most cases only high temp engine paints require oven cure otherwise not. So, air curing seems to keep the material more ductile & flexible and tightly bonded to the metal but still somewhat scratch resistant.

Some stuff to think about when painting engine parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #764 · (Edited)
These guys are pretty funny. Basically Matt Farah from "The Smoking Gun" and Donny his Ferrari 328 builder.
I represent both these guys, dude paying the bills and the guy fixing it. Kind of how I started this build, just replacing the CVT.
Then it kinda steamrolled into a full restoration.

On every level I can relate.

 
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Yeah. One thing leads to another.

This is what is gonna happen with my sons 1991 MR2 Turbo. All original.
 

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Discussion Starter · #766 ·
That MR2 should be a fun project. Crazy how the 90's JDM vehicle prices are just skyrocketing. Any money you guys put into it should get a decent return.
A full OEM restoration would be extremely cool.
 

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Heck. Your Juke is gonna be fully restored.

Automotive parking light Car Vehicle registration plate Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #768 · (Edited)
Yeah, that's true.......lol. Wish I spent the money restoring an MR2 but the Juke was fun either way and that's the most important part.
 
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Yeah, that's true.......lol. Wish I spent the money restoring an MR2 but the Juke was fun either way and that's the most important part.
It is gonna be UNIQUE. Thats the most important part. No one in the world will have what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #770 ·
It is gonna be UNIQUE. Thats the most important part. No one in the world will have what you have.
Yeah, it for sure is going to be unique. Built it the way I wanted to and that is the best way to do a build I suppose. Take your time with the MR2 and don't feel rushed is probably the best advice I could give. Wondering if Toyota still offer stuff like door window trim, door seals, etc. That stuff is usually gold when doing rebuilds.
 

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I think you can get Generic things like that and mod them to work. Wont be OEM but will do. The car is in really good shape.
 
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