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Discussion Starter · #681 ·

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Blending that pipe like you did would be the ticket. I just threw it on to see how it would work. It worked but not under high air flow. I have the 21T. I am going to blend that thing to the inlet like you said.

I have a custom pipe on to eliminate the factory cast aluminum POS. Best mod I ever bolted on. Well the one that made the car seem to run better.

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Discussion Starter · #683 ·
Looks pretty good. That is 2.5" or 2.75"? Either way looks like you'll have some high flow goin on there. That pipe would look awesome with some Red or Black wrinkle powder coat to really finish it off, the gun-metal satin Cerakote would also look killer. Wish I had waited and gotten the Mamba 21TK, that is a nice bolt-on turbo. How's it spoolup?

I'm working on a custom CAI setup and that inlet pipe is going to be tricky to fabricate, especially the diverter return. Might plan on chopping the entire stock diverter/breather section off the stock cast inlet pipe and merging it on top of the 3" tube by re-welding it place, I'll have to draw a sketch of that.

Also I'm about to buy a bead roller for the charge tubes from Eastwood since it's always a handy tool to have when working with charge pipes. Got a ton of metal working tools from Eastwood needed for that CAI setup so I'll be posting that up here as I work on it. The welding part is going to be tricky since it's aluminum but I'll get some practice over the next few months. Just waiting on parts seems to be the story of my life...lol.
 

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Yeah. I didnt paint it. Once you get all the hoses on. There isnt much left to see. I did have to cut off the very end of my SRI. Just to get it to fit right. I did not put a bead on that as its an intake and it is wedged pretty tight so its not going anywhere. I think it was 2.75 as that Mamba adapter is 3" so you can see the step down. I had to use the smaller pipe tho but its right at the turbo.

I would run a full length custom intake with the PCV and Diverter pipes welded to it then couple it with the Mamba adapter if I was staying with the OEM housing. That is the cleanest route but as the video showed. You prolly wont have any gains with a nice crisp clean sleek intake set up. If you were going for track day. Maybe no filter with a ring on it. She might get 1/10th faster down the track.

Even the fastest SHOs which are 600whp/500wtq. They use 2 smaller turbos than the Juke. CAI, SRI, Twin filter etc, or OEM intake. No difference in track time on the fastest 3.5Ltr V6s. Biggest gains are by fueling with Corn and weigh reduction. So E-blend around E30 to E50.. But it all adds up. Thats for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #685 ·
The SHO must have a good intake setup from the factory and good underhood airflow, those cars are sneaky fast.

Regarding the Juke stock air intake, couple of things I noticed. Only the compressor inlet pipe (1.75" ID) and the accordian rubber tube leading to the stock airbox is actually restrictive plus the 3" CAI tube as well. Stock airfilter area is about equal to the Injen SRI and a square/rect K&N or whatever could be dropped in no problem. The CAI cold pickup tube connection is like 4-5" at the box which provides great distribution to the filter then tapers to about 3" for the CAI pipe out to the front fender area. That 3" section could be hacked off and 4" merged onto the connection or a 3D-printed airbox adapter made for a 4" CAI tube. Really just swapping to a custom aftermarket 2.5"-3" compressor inlet pipe up to a stock box and replacing the 3" CAI tube to about 4".........done. The MAF housing ID isn't a restriction or issue until the higher power levels. This is how I rolled with on my WRX STi with an HTA68 turbo upgrade @ 350 h.p. (i.e. modified stock airbox) with minimal intake restriction which I actually measured (10-12 inH20). I had all the fancy/beautiful K&N aftermarket intake available but testing showed that heatsoak and A/F leanout murdered power. Different car though but the WRX were always sensitive to aftermarket intakes.

Personally I'm not a fan of SRI and the way they look cause the filters get beat to hell under the hood and I don't like the hot radiator jet wash causing idle stumble. On the flip side I also don't like the CAI that are available to the Juke (Injen & 2J) because of the long 3" pipe run is also restrictive and the water splash/hydrolock issues. Not a fan of hanging an airfilter into a muddy location to also get beatup. Each to their own though it's more of a cosmetic thing I have against exposed pod filters.

If you've seen there are a few CAI with airboxes and clear polycarbonate covers to show off the airfilter. That is more what I prefer to do cause you get the benefit of the visual looks, protects the filter from damage, and the colder air running thru the motor and protected against the radiator fan jetwash. Keep in mind this setup is what I have on my EVO X. I can always pull the CAI airbox lid/cover off for those winter days or drag strip runs and presto.......instant SRI. I like having the option to go either way depending on the driving style/conditions I'm in. So far, the EVO X I never pull the CAI airbox lid off because it always makes much less power but for drag racing I might pickup a touch if the hood is propped up in the staging lanes or whatnot. Once I cut out some polycarbonate I can then showoff the filter inside the CAI.

Not wanting to argue SRI vs. CAI cause we had that out a ways back:). Just mentioning how I just don't like the cosmetics of an SRI or even the available CAI.

I'm about to buy a Braille 2618 battery which is about 1/2 the stock battery size so I can fit a CAI in there correctly or even fabup a custom airbox.
 
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Oh I hear ya. I run a SRI just cause I can since its not a daily and the sounds are amazing. I have a brand new CAI sitting in a box just in case I want to change things up.

What about making a Hybrid OEM intake. Use the OEM air box. Put a clear top on it. Have metal pipes into and out of it. Mod it so a CAI/conical filter is on the inside.

Have someone you know 3D print an intake box or adapt another car aftermarket box to yours.

 

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Discussion Starter · #687 ·
I had done some initial design work & CFD on a custom CAI setup and then I saw the K&N Orion 54-5000 intake system. K&N also have the Apollo intake but it looks a little bit too Ebay looking for my tastes, plus it's only rated at 350 hp. The newer K&N Orion intake setup is rated for 500 h.p. The design has a very nice velocity stack built in, matte finish, a high efficiency 4" diffuser into the enclosure, and a big cone filter with a nozzle cone to reduce turbulence. For $219 it's worth trying. Inlet is 4" then 3" outlet on the filter side. Size is deceptive but it's actually small with about 6.2" diameter x 8.8" long, so it's compact. I can fabricate the 3" inlet pipe/MAF pipe and for the cold side I'll also fabricate the 4" pipe to feed it from the fender well with another velocity stack added on the end. With some custom machined mounts and clean looking black silicone hose and t-clamps it'll look fresh.

Maybe not some peoples cup of tea but the shape is almost exactly the most efficient you could possibly make it. Looks like a cyllinder but it's actually slightly tapered. I'm all about function and this is nearly optimal. The MAF sensor get's a clean shot of laminar airflow as well. I designed a flow straightening grid for the 4" inlet since I'll have a 45-60* turn coming into it so that'll keep the turbulence down even further. That part will be an insert made of 3D printed SLA Duraform HST material (i.e. high temp Nylon GF). I already ran the CFD analysis and that flow straightener makes a difference to prevent the flow from tumbling thru the MAF.

For mounting this thing like I mentioned I'm replacing the stock battery with an 18 lb Braille which is about 6" x 3" wide or 1/2 the size of the factory battery. The 2nd problem is the brake master cylinder reservoir which is smack dab in the middle of where I want to mount this thing. I prefer to mount it inline with the engine/transmission tranversely to keep the bends to the minimum and for aesthetics but I'm running into that reservoir. Currently looking at an option to billet machine a replacement brake reservoir mount to offset it and clear it to the passenger side or forwards a bit. Mine is fubar anyway after a squirrel chewed thru most of it and got a taste of some brake fluid. Thus I can pull it for some measurements and go from there. My machine shop guy has a 5-axis so this would be cake and of course I can easily design whatever I need to make it happen. Money is the only problem but for what I just spent on this build, not really a problem.


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Then there are inline filters.



Two for the price of one and already painted. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #689 ·
The K&N is also an inline filter essentially. I like the carbon fiber housing though, nice find. The red MAF pipes actually might work. I'm assuming Nissan run the same Hot wire maf across different models. Yep, a nice little system could be pieced together with some customization. The carbon fiber might look way better so that one I'll have to seriously consider. Decisions, decisions. Got some time to figure out how to fit it all up. Trick is still going to be room under the hood ,that one I'm taking measurements so I can dry fit up stuff. Without the engine it's tough to get reference points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #690 ·
Here's a CAI from the Tilton Racing EVO X.
Note the fender mounted airfilter. The carbon fiber shield underneath it would protect against some water splash but also I think it's a deflector to route some air into the brakes too.
Can see some clean sheetmetal work and a nice compressor inlet pipe using a Wiggins clamp to eliminate the silicone hose connection.

 

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Discussion Starter · #691 · (Edited)
Going to pickup my latest parts order tomorrow from the local Nissan dealership.

This weekend I should be able to install the new alternator & a/c compressor while the new starter will wait until the transmission is mounted. Old parts were working fine but it's better to have new/reman stuff from Nissan while I'm doing a ground up rebuild anyway. Turbo install is waiting on some ceramic coating of the CHRA housing which should be completed by next weekend.

Last major batch of engine parts going to be ordered are going to be the: NGK coil packs, NGK spark plugs, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, Knock sensor, 02 sensor front, & 02 sensor rear. All that stuff I'm ordering from Rock Auto as these are mostly OE suppliers (i.e. Denso, Hitachi, NTK, Bosch, etc.) and the prices are 50% of the Nissan parts. Mentioned previously that I bought a fresh engine wiring harness so that'll be good to hook up to all new engine sensors. Going to also order up the 2J silicone radiator hose kit in black to flash up the engine bay and make it shine a little bit. Still need the (2) OE heater hoses, brake fluid reservoir, radiator, & A/C condenser core/filter drier. Finally, I'm also getting ready to order the Siberian Bushing subframe poly inserts, Powerflex motor mount inserts, & Whiteline swaybar endlinks. Control arms/bushings are fubar so those will be new as well though I'm not sure I'll put the effort into Powerflex bushings, on the fence on that depending on how my schedule works. At this time I'm not even thinking about coilovers or brake upgrades since I want to really research what I need and the cost will be spendy. Car running first is the goal and stock crusty parts will work for now.

Anyhow, that is almost covering everything I need to drop the engine into the car. At some point late summer I will pressure wash the engine bay, mask/bag the wires/brake lines/etc. and shoot some fresh paint onto the engine bay/front clip. It's currently a mix of black primer, olive primer, and the factory gunmetal color. Craziest paint job I've ever seen for an engine bay. I'm going to get the factory paint code and shoot the engine bay in gunmetal to match the exterior, maybe clear coat if the labor isn't too much. Probably need to drop the fenders to get access to everything. Upper and lower radiator supports will also get repainted and rust corrected where I find it, no big deal with a wire wheel and some rust converter. In the far future I'll look at the rear of the vehicle to refurbish but it'll be a much simpler job once the front is taken care of. The body is mostly in outstanding shape so this is mostly to tidy everything up.

Tomorrow I'm also picking up the full OE motor mount set, no Ebay motor mounts for my ride. Cost a small fortune but with the Powerflex inserts the new mounts should reduce stress on the transmission with the higher engine power/torque. Little bit of sub-frame work needed in terms of rust removal, re-painting and rebuilding the front swaybar assembly that needs to be done before the motor is actually dropped into place. Steering knuckles will spend some time in the blasting cabinet with a fresh coat of primer and some factory gloss black to finish it off nicely. Probably will drop some money on new front wheel hubs & ABS sensors and call it good under the car at that point.

I've purposely held off on the CVT transmission a bit which although already rebuilt/upgraded still requires a semi-teardown to re-install the upgraded new oil pump, Raybestos clutches, internal reinforcements, etc. which should take me about 1-2 weeks to complete once I start that job. There is a lot of stuff for the CVT that will get added later that I couldn't hope to do on this build and it'll evolve over time as I drive and test the Juke. This is kind of par for the course as I built the car over 3-4 years & some things simply became obsolete and I had to re-upgrade. I wasn't expecting to upgrade my upgrades but sometimes you have to do it when technology evolves or things are discovered. At this point the car will be about as upgraded as I can afford and within the engineering limits that are physically possible. Fancy new Garrett turbo and custom manifold at some point would be kind of nice but not within the scope of this project for now.

That work really needs to be completed by around August/September, especially the painting as the cold weather is delaying me now. It's amazing how much time I'm spending doing literally nothing while I wait on parts & save-up, but that phase is almost over and the hard work begins. This build is somewhat deceptive in terms of duration and because of the huge time it takes to do 20-30 separate parts orders and waiting to save up money or research. Money no object this is a 1-2 year project for an amateur but money is an object so the build pushes out and there was some hardcore scope creep and R&D involved. Not completing the project wasn't an option.

Everything done the right way but taking forever at this point. In any case, glad to be done ordering mass amounts of parts.
 

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Man I would paint that engine bay something different. I get the Gun metal but this is hopefully the last time the engine is out. Its a tough choice. Something to make the bay really POP since the engine work you have done is so clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #693 ·
Will definitely have to give it some thought. Open to ideas. The engine is mostly going to end up black wrinkle, red wrinkle, black satin, gloss black, bare vapor honed satin aluminum, & polished stainless clamps and what not. I'm not going so far as a wire tuck since that is just too much work but I will get in there and replace OEM vacuum hoses with some nice nylon braided line and reroute what I can to clean it up. Not sure what color goes with that but something lighter behind it would make it pop. Lighter is easier to troubleshoot and inspect problems as well. Never liked when guys black spray painted engine bays which makes it look like a junkyard build.
 

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Nismo Red but not wrinkled. Sort like the front here. Or Bright red

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Discussion Starter · #695 ·
I'm starting to lean back towards some glossy/anodized charge pipes. That engine bay actually looks pretty good & clean but that's my tastes and not for everyone. The upper radiator support is a good location to try some different paint options since it's so easy to remove. Can switch it up since I can paint my own stuff and see what works and what doesn't. Going to have a little fun with it and see what it looks like.
 
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Discussion Starter · #696 · (Edited)
Alternator & A/C pump are in & new accessory belt installed. Starter cannot be installed until engine/trans is on the hoist since I'm using that mounting hole for the engine stand cradle. Looking like a proper engine now, pics to follow of course.

Highly recommend Rock Auto for the Alternator and Starter since Nissan only sell reman units now. You'll save $$$ hundreds vs. Nissan. Rock Auto has high quality reman from Hitachi & Denso which are OE suppliers which I would bet are where the dealership are getting them as well. I would have saved over $250 if I had gone aftermarket Alternator/Stater reman, live and learn and save from my mistakes.

Ported exhaust manifold & EM gasket go on tonight/tomorrow. Bought some 12 pnt nuts & high strength steel studs from Mamba to replace the factory OEM studs and nuts. I'm flipping them over since the head side threads weren't as long as I like them to be while the manifold threads were way longer than they needed to be. But doing this there will be plenty of thread engagement in the head to prevent stud pullout. Important here to check manifold flatness but generally the Juke is good in that respect. I'll double up on the nut washers and then everything will fit nicely. Probably the factory copper nuts make better sense from a reliability standpoint but with a little bit of anti-seize I think these will work nicely and of course 12 pnt nuts always look cool. Would have been interesting to try titanium studs since 2J has them but at this point I'm trying to wrap this project before I go broke.

Got some ceramic coating to do this weekend on the turbo CHRA, then wait 5 days cure time and the turbo, oil/water lines get installed and that'll be a wrap for that. Heat shielding will get added later as the weather warms up and I can ceramic coat everything but not a big rush. I'm switching to studs & copper nuts on the heat shielding to make it dead simple to swap turbos or to drop the downpipe and avoid snapping heatshield bolts like the stock bolts tend to do.

Intake manifold & throttlebody may get installed next week after some cleanup with all new OEM gaskets/seals of course from the engine gasket rebuild kit. Going to re-use the IM but at some point it'll get replaced since the pressure cycles can tend to weaken the intake manifold weld joints and blowing one out at high boost would be very bad. Pricey but that'll come sometime year end when I can catch them on sale from Nissan.

Hmm, and of course I have yet to install most of the new sensors and coilpacks/sparkplugs but possibly next month. Not a huge rush on that and a simple job to install.
 

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And once it is all installed. The MRDDT16 is just one ugly engine save for decorative paint on Piping and colored hoses etc. It just isn't purdy. I looked at my Juke. Even painting the engine bay wont do too much. Its all hidden for the most part. But a lighter color should make it stand out better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #698 ·
And once it is all installed. The MRDDT16 is just one ugly engine save for decorative paint on Piping and colored hoses etc. It just isn't purdy. I looked at my Juke. Even painting the engine bay wont do too much. Its all hidden for the most part. But a lighter color should make it stand out better.
I'll have to agree with you on that. Maybe I can replace some of the emissions control stuff and reroute the wiring somehow, possibly. The valve cover is visible and so that is where to make things pop. Going to prep the VC so I can wrinkle paint it red or something. Same problem on the EVO which is why I keep the engine cover on cause the naked engine looks like hell too.
 

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Anyway to paint and mod your engine cover to fit ? For looks only. Not for driving around. Not a fan of a plastic heat trapping device on top of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #700 · (Edited)
On the EVO it’s meant for fire suppression and injector noise suppression and a good idea to keep in place. I also have a vented hood so that maybe isn’t a good example.

For the Juke the stock engine cover is hideous and I wouldn't run that stock or painted as it's a flimsy piece of junk. Something like the EVO, CTR, or GR Yaris the engine cover is heavy duty, lined with sound/fire suppression material, and is actually powder coated a textured red with black plastic and painted lettering/logo and it's much heavier duty and premium looking. I actually prefer to run it on the EVO because of the ugliness of the engine without it.

Maybe the Juke needs a functional/vented engine cover of some kind of sheetmetal & painted/powder coated 3-d printed assembly construction that might make it look cooler while still keeping a functional aspect to it and allow heat dissipation.

You can see below, it doesn't look that bad with a proper engine cover but when you take the cover off it is a hot mess. No simple solutions.

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