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Discussion Starter · #361 ·
Here's the cabinet mostly built. I've been caulking with silicon to make it liquid tight. A cyclonic type particulate trap will be added before the shop vac to filter the cabinet air. Tacoma company also sells any upgrade kit for a air regulator, metering flow manifold for the gun & adjustment peddle plus hoses. I'm thinking of putting some caster's on the base to move it around the garage. I spent $189 for the cabinet and $54 for the shop vac. My craftsman 6.5 cfm @ 90 psi & 30 gallon air compressor will be used for now, but the cabinet requires 9.5 cfm @ 90 psi. This is considered a budget equipment build, but the basics are pretty much there to get the job done.

188441
 

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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
Spent some time building the unit. Had to strip the silicon caulk off I added and reapply polyurethane caulk instead to seal everything. Takes forever to dry, but the media tends to embed into the silicon caulk, so polyurethane is recommended which is then painted. Used painters tape this time and it looks really clean. Anyway, got a couple of days on that to do since all the holes needed to be caulked too.

Built the rolling base using some 1x3 pine and casters. It came out nice, wheels are a little small but by design I didn’t want the cabinet raised up higher than needed. The entire setup weighs less than 100lbs so nothing heavy duty is needed.

But it’s awesome being able to wheel it around. I might design a pullout slider to pull the water sump and pump out.

Ordered up the suction gun, dry media metering valve, and air supply control pedal. Bought from Grainger the Tsurumi 1/2hp sewage pump to feed the suction gun. This pump is a quality pump and should be very reliable.

Installed the airline regulator too. For now I have most of the pieces and just need to plumb the air and water lines and it’ll be up and running. The gun needs a check valve installed to prevent water backflow thru the airlines in case the air is accidentally shutoff. Maybe an air shutoff valve to the regulator.
The water pump doesn’t have an off switch so I might buy a pedal activated momentary switch so I can work the air and water both by foot control.

These are the bare minimum system components needed to make it work, but guys have gotten crazy with air solenoids and geared ball valves to really automate everything. For now, simple with quality components. Important thing is airflow thru the fittings, hoses, and gun. The slurry pump needs good agitation and maybe a filtration system to remove the washed off debri from the glass. For now, I might use a strainer or something.

There is a lot of electrical to support and so there might be a mini breaker box at a later date. The pump, lighting, air filtration(dry media), windshield wiper system, etc will probably take 10 amps, the compressor being on a different circuit as I can’t support more than 15a on the current line without tripping the breaker.

The gun is sized to my 30 gal compressor flow rate of about 8 from @50psi. For now it’ll have to do but a large compressor is insane how fast it can process parts. The gun is sized to the compressor with removable air and media nozzles, but the flow is on the lower end.

I’ll post some pictures of what I have so far later today.
 

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I'm sure the family just loves having a media blaster cabinet in the front room of the house. haha. Looking forward to the shiny new parts that come out of this cabinet.

If I ever need to media blast some parts, I'm making a road trip. I'll bring the beer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #364 ·
Lol, I’ll be wheeling that thing into the kitchen, girlfriend loves me. More than welcome to drop by with some EVO parts to clean up, bring the beer and we can blast some parts.

Talked to Apex machine, block and head will be done by this Wednesday. I’ll take about 3 weeks to finish up the Vapor blast home system, I think it’ll be running by then. I’m still getting the Ultrasonic cleaner for final block, head cleaning so probably 1 month before I start any engine work. Then it should go quickly from there.
 

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Well you can build a blaster faster than a Juke motor thats for sure. LOLOL

Sorry had to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #366 ·
So true. It's almost getting there though:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #367 · (Edited)
Got some goodies for the Vapor blasting setup. The japanese Tsurimi 50 gpm sump pump, IDSBlast blasting gun w/boron 1/4" nozzle, IDSBlast metering valve assy (dry media blast), and SKAT pneumatic foot pedal for the air gun came in. Gonna do some mods on the foot pedal like paint it yellow, put some feet on it. It's internally high flow so it can move a lot of air to bigger gun setups on the SKAT cabinets. The air regulator is mounted on the cabinet already, might upgrade it later but for now gonna slap a big pressure gauge on it and call it done. The fittings will be high flow air quick connects, cam/groove quick water quick connects, and unions on the pump head. I'm using the cabinet screws which are extended to mount cushion hose clamps to route all the hose, should look clean when I'm done. You can see the wood rolling base, I used white pine and some small casters, worked great. I'll lay in a plastic mesh support floor for the sump to sit on.

The cabinet will run bulkhead fittings to keep everything water tight and clean. For the pump I'm designing a PVC manifold head assembly with (2) venturi mixers that'll keep the media/water fully mixed in whatever container I run. They look like little rocket engines. I've seen a few setups with open hose or hose with holes drilled, but this method is massively more effective at keeping the water/glass mixed perfectly. I'm using (2) 2.9 gpm venturi tank mixers @ 180* to each other to balance the thrust, sitting on the floor aiming slightly upwards, so the pump doesn't tip over or thrust upwards. They will pass the glass bead straight thru the nozzles without clogging. The sump pump is a single stage open centrifugal impeller design, so they don't have a lot of pressure boosting capability. The pump will be running about 6 gpm thru the venturi mixers, with another 12 gpm thru the 1/4" air gun nozzle for blasting. That means I'll be at the 18 gpm flow @ 30 ft head (~13 psi) on the pump curve. No pressure regulator will be used for obvious reasons. The pump is mainly pressure boosting the suction port on the venturi blaster gun to help lift the heavy water/glass mix to the gun. While the venturi mixers are rated at 50 psi, they typically stop working well below 20 psi, 13 psi available will have to do and might just get the job done.

I'm getting a NEMA 4 rated electrical enclosure with a GFCI breaker for the pump, internal lighting, windshield washer, and all that good electrical stuff. I'll be switching to the ball valve and electric pedal for the air control on the gun in the future. All the basics are there except the hose which will all have quick connects as mentioned. Some cool accessories are available like air guns, gun holders, small hardware basket holder, etc. but I'll get that stuff later. I spent hours caulking the cabinet sheetmetal seams using black polyurethane and it actually looks good and should be very durable, keeping in mind this cabinet was never designed for water. I'm upgrading the supplied plexiglass internal sacrificial window with a single pane blasting window from McMaster for $16, easy swap as it comes in the standard 12"x 24" dimensions. Maybe in the future I switch to PLC control for filtration cycles, etc. with an HMI setup but for now........need a basic setup to clean stuff with. This'll get the job done.

The biggest challenge will be water filtration, the glass media making it very difficult to separate the dirt/debri from the glass bead. As I mentioned, this is a totally recirculating system so whatever dirt get's dumped in there accumulates. I might make an auxilliary water pump system for clean water for rinsing, but again this has to be figured out since this dilutes the glass media slurry ratio, maybe I build a diverter valve to a 2nd clean water sump system. And so on, this is what happens when you are bored waiting on engine parts.

For now, a storage tote will be used as the new sump but something a little more slick in the future will be used.

188499
 

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Discussion Starter · #368 · (Edited)
Machine shop got the cylinder head done, another damned week on the block. Knew it, but it's only been 4 weeks. They'll call me when it's done. I'll check the Carrillo piston wall clearances when the block get's back to my house. I only hope they followed the datasheet Carrillo provided on the pistons. Otherwise, excited.

The blast cabinet I've been doing some final design work. I moved the sump pump into the cabinet to keep all the recirc plumbing internalized. You can see the venturi mixers on the pump output head manifold. I may design my own with ceramic inserts on the nozzle & throat to keep the wear down using abrasive media.

Ignore the air line routing. I'm going to have a bigger 1/2" air regulator/filter, ball valve control, check valve, then straight into the cabinet. An electric pedal will control the ball valve to kick the air supply on/off. The pump will also kickoff the same signal. I'll have separate air-gun and rinse water gun setups. I laid out the E-box enclosure with DIN rail mounted GFCI receptacles. The cabinet will run our company water filtration system and maybe a small dayton pump for a rinse operation. Need to add a tank level switch and other pump protection. I came up with a slick pump mounting solution so I need to modify the slurry pump pickup base to fit the cabinet sump. The lower bucket isn't really needed other than as a drip pan, since the water will be kept in the cabinet sump that I water proofed. I'll have a drain valve mounted on the sump as well.

This has been a nice diversion from the engine/trans build as I get to do a little free-form design work. Only the best components are going into this build. Funny how I'm starting to care less about cars. Anyway, I'll keep you all posted.

188541
 

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Well anything new at this point has to be better.

Been a long long build.
 

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You sir, do not do ANYTHING by half!! Simply awesome. Quite awe inspiring tbh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #371 ·
Lol......thanks Scougar, hand't heard from you in awhile. Taking the time to do it right makes it easier. If you grind out a problem long enough, it get's solved.

There are some custom bolt-on stuff I want to do but that's relatively easy once the car is actually running. Got my fancy TIG welder I need to practice on, plus my cold cutting chop saw for parts fabrication, haven't even touched that stuff yet. Future projects. As far as tuning goes, there will be some plans for custom tunes as the cams and bigger turbo will require specific tuning.

On the Vapor Blasting equipment, I'm finalizing my system design. Mainly now centering around the closed-loop water/media filtration system. The challenges are treating the highly toxic waste water so that I can dispose of it or even re-use the water indefinitely in the blaster. This definitely falls under the category of "side-track project", but my brain needed a massive break from Juke engine/transmission builds. I had a couple surgeries in-between that slowed me down, plus those darned medical bills but getting back to normal now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #372 ·
Couple of pics.




188597
188598


188599

188600
 

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Oh jeex. You gonna have more mods on this than your Juke. HAHAHA
 

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Discussion Starter · #374 ·
You know it:)

Probably the cabinet would probably win in the 1/4 mile.....lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #375 ·
Cylinder head is back from the shop. They took .002" off the deck so it was minimal to nothing, pretty sure the valvetrain and timing chain should be unaffected by that small amount of material removal. I'll check the straightness later but I'm sure it's bang on. The surface finish I might check at work but it should be fine for a viton coated multi-gasket type headgasket. If I'm bored I might deburr the edges, not too difficult. Total cost was $50. The rest of the work in terms of pocket porting, 3-angle valve job, and chamber polishing was done by myself. Ton's of work but worth it.

Maybe this'll be a good candidate for the Ultrasonic parts washer to get the coolant passages cleaned up nicely. It shouldn't take long to re-assemble, maybe 2 hours taking my time. I'll probably re-lapp the new valves in very slightly to get the perfect fit up, otherwise everything at this point is drop-in. I'm very curious to see how well this head will flow with the Crower cams but that is still a long ways off. For now, the head will receive the brand new exhaust valve studs and it should mate nicely with the intake/exhaust manifolds. I'm waiting on a brand new exhaust manifold so I can port match it to the modified Mamba turbo. This'll be a good tutorial on porting manifolds/turbo's. Not huge gains but free and might net a few ponies on the upper rpm band. Possibly later on I get a custom welded stainless equal length runner exhaust manifold, but for now I have to get everything buttoned up so I can actually drive it.

The cylinder block they still haven't touched.............7 weeks later. They promise by next week but I'm crossing my fingers.

188696
 
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Flow baby Flow.

Can the plastic intake runners keep up with a modded exhaust manifold ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #377 · (Edited)
Hmm, good question.

I haven't tested it, so my opinion is yes. The Juke intake manifold is a 9" C/L runner, smooth injection molded bores, plenum-to-runner bell mouth radiusing, thermally insulated plastic, & decent sized plenum. The typical street car is more like 12-13" runner lengths for lowend torque. What some forget is that thermal insulating properties is hugely important on the intake manifold, it's easily worth +10 h.p. over an aluminum intake manifold. For instance, a steel or stainless intake manifold is going to get absolutely murdered on heat soak in the real world. Even my EVO X aluminum intake manifold heat soaks relentlessly if I don't feed it constant cold air thru the OEM CAI setup, even with the hood vent heat extractors. When it does heat soak I lose HUGE bags of power & torque. That Mitsu EVO X Intake manifold is probably one of the best designs there are from an OE Japanese car, considered to be an upgrade actually with 6" runners and a huge tapered intake plenum. Yet a bit of heat soak obliterates the power/torque. Thus, I prefer the Juke plastic manifold which by design isn't too shabby either. Love to rock an upgraded intake manifold, but the exhaust manifold might be simpler to upgrade.
 

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Yeah I learned that with the SHO. Plastic is superior for some properties. They are working on Phenolic spacers right now for the SHO intake. It gets wicked hot since its a V6 and it is cradled by heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #379 ·
How's the new Sled BTW? Is that the 2.7L or 3.5L Ecoboost?
 

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2.7 TT. Its good. It has everything we wanted cept not SHO power. I will prolly tune it after a year. Only 270 miles on her.

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