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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone in the 1000-mile-club gone to the dealer for a break-in oil change? Are Nissan mechanics using full synthetic in the Juke?

Our dealer gave us a free oil change voucher. If they're not using full synthetic, I won't bother. I've got 5qts. of synth I can put in it.
 

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Anyone in the 1000-mile-club gone to the dealer for a break-in oil change? Are Nissan mechanics using full synthetic in the Juke?

Our dealer gave us a free oil change voucher. If they're not using full synthetic, I won't bother. I've got 5qts. of synth I can put in it.
I'd run it on regular or a synth blend for the first 5 thousand miles to get the break in done right on the engine. But that's just me.
 

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How's the clearance for the diy folks? One thing I love about our rav4 is that I can do an oil change without getting out the jack and stands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'd run it on regular or a synth blend for the first 5 thousand miles to get the break in done right on the engine. But that's just me.
That's how I break in older iron block engines that I've rebuilt; using a reg. with high ZDDP & heavy metal content.

However, I'm concerned with the fact that this is a new, all aluminum, engine that utilizes Nissan's "daimond-like coating" (DLC) on the cam followers. And, I've read that Nissan recommends using their ester based oil in the VQ and VR engines that also have DLC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How's the clearance for the diy folks? One thing I love about our rav4 is that I can do an oil change without getting out the jack and stands.
If you're using carboard; no jack stands. If you're using a creeper; break out the jack.

So what oil is the best to use?
Use synthetic or Nissan's ester-based oil.
That said, can any high-mileage Jukers answer my original question?
I ask b/c dealers/dealer mechanics aren't always up to speed on even their own vehicles.
 

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Bob, I have a 3500 mile appointment set up to get my oil changed. It is a free first service offered by my dealer. I figure I will get dino oil in it, and then at 7K-ish switch to synthetic.
 

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well I am just leave the original factory oil in and after 20000 km's (don;t know how much miles that is) i let it change.

why? because the engine parts have to get used to the oil, keeping putting in new ones is a wast of money according to my nissan mechanic.
the more you put new oil in the longer it takes for the engine to get used to the oil.

cannot explain it the right way due to my english, but I think I made my point :D
 

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I thought you were supposed to change it right away; say after 20 miles or so, because the new machined parts shed bits or something.
 

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I thought you were supposed to change it right away; say after 20 miles or so, because the new machined parts shed bits or something.
Not that soon. Used to be the engines came with a special grade to help with break in which was mainly for the piston rings and you ran that for the first 1000 miles or so not so sure now what is best so follow the manufacturers recommendations on break in and oil to use.
 

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Not that soon. Used to be the engines came with a special grade to help with break in which was mainly for the piston rings and you ran that for the first 1000 miles or so not so sure now what is best so follow the manufacturers recommendations on break in and oil to use.

for what i know the manual and the dealer didnt say there is a break in period for the oil.


but this is probl a typical thing that one will say it is the other will say not

just like breaking in driving
 

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well I am just leave the original factory oil in and after 20000 km's (don;t know how much miles that is) i let it change.
20,000 km is about 12,000 miles. The first oil change is at 3 months or 3750 miles under severe conditions, or 7,500 miles/6 months for normal conditions. 12,000 miles is bit much to go before your first oil change.
 

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I read this in Popular Mechanics, and it's from this thread: http://www.jukeforums.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/117735-breaking-car.html

Oil

I customarily change the oil in a new engine after about 20 miles, and again at 1000 or so. That 20-mile oil, you would think, would look pretty much like fresh oil right out of the bottle. Wrong. It usually looks more like metal-flake paint, iridescent with tiny particles of metal worn off rubbing surfaces inside the new engines. After a few hours of operation, this completely normal phenomenon slows down as the rings, camshaft, lifters and bearings burnish their respective mating surfaces.
 

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To get the best interval for your particular driving style and environment, you need a used oil analysis. I use blackstone labs. They send you a sample collection kit, you fill it at next oil change and mail back. Then you get a report on the oil's condition. Great way to catch big problems early in addition to establishing the best interval for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Page 5-28 of the manual recommends a 1200 mile break-in period, during which time it says not to rev the engine above 4k RPM, among other instructions.

I like to change the oil at the manufacturer's recommended break-in mileage. But this topic has gone off on a tangent. Everybody's got their own break-in voodoo that's been around for decades.

However, Nissan's "diamond-like coating" on the valve lifters and recommended ester-based oil, have not been around for decades, hence my starting this thread. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and see if they can shed any light on the situation.
 

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Well, I was told many, many moons ago, that if people changed their oil as often as they fill the gas tank, they would never wear their engines out!!

This theory about engine´s getting used to oil is a new one on me? I would agree that mixing brands and viscosities is a no-no and I would certainly want my engine to achieve a reasonable mileage before changing to fully synthetic, to allow parts to "bed" to each other.

As Violet quite rightly summises, swarf is an undesirable element created when breaking in an engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, I was told many, many moons ago, that if people changed their oil as often as they fill the gas tank, they would never wear their engines out!!

This theory about engine´s getting used to oil is a new one on me? I would agree that mixing brands and viscosities is a no-no and I would certainly want my engine to achieve a reasonable mileage before changing to fully synthetic, to allow parts to "bed" to each other.

As Violet quite rightly summises, swarf is an undesirable element created when breaking in an engine.
Blarg. NISSAN HAS DEVELOPED A "DIAMOND-LIKE COATING" THAT THEY ARE USING ON THE VALVE LIFTERS OF THE VQ, VR, & MR16DDT(Juke) ENGINES. THEY RECOMMEND USING THEIR PROPRIETARY ESTER-BASED OIL IN THE VQ AND VR ENGINES, EQUIPPED WITH DIAMOND-LIKE COATING ON THE VALVE LIFTERS.

Can anyone hold back the urge to mention how their father told them to break in an engine that doesn't have Nissan's DIAMOND-LIKE COATING, and confirm or deny that Nissan is or isn't using their ester-based oil in the Juke's MR16DDT engine?

This is not a Chevy 350. It's got diamond-eque up in it!

Any (constructive) thoughts?
 
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