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I have a 2011 SL and I have only had it a little over a year. This issue has happened to me twice and today three times on the same day. I start the car and start pulling out and it just dies... the engine is still running but everything on the instrument panel dies, A/C Fan, radio and Power Steering. Then suddenly it flickered and came back.. with the ABS light and traction light illuminated. I can place it in park, turn it off and immediately restart it again and it seems fine. I am assuming this is possibly a battery or alternator issue. Maybe the voltage rectifier in the alternator is dying. Has anyone had this weird problem? Thanks
 

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Update, I went out in the driveway and started it up... let it run for about 5 minutes and the battery light started to flicker and then the radio turned off. The brake, ABS and traction lights remain illuminated. Now, even though I turn off and on the car those lights remain illuminated.
188312
 

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just a hunch, but I'm guessing the ABS module is dying or has died and in the process briefly shorted out the CANBUS system and caused the reset. Although there are no active engine codes, a good OBDII reader will also be able to communicate with the other modules in the system such as the ABS, Air Bag (SRS), TCM, etc and if a module fails a comms check, it may be the one interrupting vehicle system comms. Intermittent things like this are the hardest to diagnose unless the steps to reproduce the symptoms are repeatable.
 

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just a hunch, but I'm guessing the ABS module is dying or has died and in the process briefly shorted out the CANBUS system and caused the reset. Although there are no active engine codes, a good OBDII reader will also be able to communicate with the other modules in the system such as the ABS, Air Bag (SRS), TCM, etc and if a module fails a comms check, it may be the one interrupting vehicle system comms. Intermittent things like this are the hardest to diagnose unless the steps to reproduce the symptoms are repeatable.
I have a ready, no OBDII codes... I am leaning towards the alternator.
 

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I put a voltmeter across the battery today. 12.4v with the battery disconnected. I start it up and it goes to 14.1v but quickly drops to 13.2. I turn everything on to simulate a load and it stays at 13.2v. I would think with this much load...ie lights, a/c, radio and rear defrost that it would make it start charging at around 14.2v.
 

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Nope. Not when the ECU is trying to save MPG. It does not need that.
 

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Get the reader first. See what it says,
 

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Get the reader first. See what it says,
My battery/charging test says that it's a little low. I went to Autozone and they say it's fine. I cleared the many codes as you'll can see from the attachment... kinda scary. Anyway, drove it some yesterday with the BlueDriver in live mode and noticed that the control module voltage initially after startup goes to 14.3v but that is just for a minute or so. Then driving around it never goes above 13.1v. It usually runs around 12.8 vdc... I don't know... I am about to throw in the towel. So far, the codes haven't come back. The only thing physically that I have done to it so far is clean the battery terminals, which were not that bad and add a little water to the battery.
 

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Well the BCM/ECU controls the charging. It wont charge unless it needs it. As long as its not throwing codes and running well. You are fine.
 

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Well the BCM/ECU controls the charging. It wont charge unless it needs it. As long as its not throwing codes and running well. You are fine.
I thought I was fixed.. after about 6 months it happened again. What a pain. I will start this process over again with the battery terminals and see if any new codes pop up.
 

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Geez. Well thats a lot of faults/codes.

It seems that something is disconnecting. If it was an ignition switch. I would start there but you have a push start. Since it calmed down for a while. It hasnt got worse so that is prolly not a bad wire grounding out per say.
 

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I disconnected the battery terminals again today... cleaned them good... although they looked ok. I took advantage and replaced the driver's side windows/lock controller also. It had been sticking and I received a new one last week. Noticed that the Passenger side back window still will not go down with either the Driver's controller or the RR door switch. I drove it for a while and no problems. I will have to dig into that RR window when I get some more time. I hope it's just a connection in the door.
 

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I have a 2011 SL and I have only had it a little over a year. This issue has happened to me twice and today three times on the same day. I start the car and start pulling out and it just dies... the engine is still running but everything on the instrument panel dies, A/C Fan, radio and Power Steering. Then suddenly it flickered and came back.. with the ABS light and traction light illuminated. I can place it in park, turn it off and immediately restart it again and it seems fine. I am assuming this is possibly a battery or alternator issue. Maybe the voltage rectifier in the alternator is dying. Has anyone had this weird problem? Thanks
It’s the alternator. You will not get any codes. It shuts down the climate controls and power steering. It just happened to me right before trading it in.


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