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Hi, I’m new to the forum and I’ve had a 2012 juke in the past and was able to mess with the boost manually. But I just bought a 2015 juke NISMO and it has an electric blow off valve AND an electric wastegate! Are there any mods for these and if so, how do I do it or where can I buy something for it?!
 

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welcome to the forums. 2011-2014 are gen 1 motors, 2015-2017 (except the Nismo RS) are gen 2 motors. you have a gen 2 motor and unfortunately there's not much you can do with the BOV and wastegate. Search the forums (using google and "site: jukeforums.com") for threads on gen 2 mods. There's even a whole section dedicated for the gen 2 motor. I know you can do exhaust, intake, and tune.
 

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welcome to the forums. 2011-2014 are gen 1 motors, 2015-2017 (except the Nismo RS) are gen 2 motors. you have a gen 2 motor and unfortunately there's not much you can do with the BOV and wastegate. Search the forums (using google and "site: jukeforums.com") for threads on gen 2 mods. There's even a whole section dedicated for the gen 2 motor. I know you can do exhaust, intake, and tune.
I know theres a ic hardpipe kit for it too but isn’t there some kind of “diverter valve” spacer mod like u can get for the new GTI’s and BMW’s? Like a “boomba” or something? N what about a downpipe?
 

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Nope and Nope. At least not yet.
 

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I had the same question on my V2, found something on a Facebook page from a french juke owner. He also supplied me with a link from ebay:

189811
 

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Looks good. Buy it. Try it. Report back. Its the only way to be sure.
 
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I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If it does, then I'll know first hand and share the result. As long as the inside of the adapter is the same size and depth as the factory , it really shouldn't seal any differently than factory setup.
 

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Personally, I would not risk using a $40eur part to replace what probably doesn't even need to be replaced. In my sig, I use the GFB as at least it has a decent reputation and is actually constructed well. You also don't want a BOV (especially Gen2) as they rely heavily on air in/air out and if you dump to atmosphere the computer can (most likely, will) doing funky stuff.
 

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I know that this same modification has been done to many other vehicles from different manufacturers, without negative effects. In all reality the diverter valve just diverts air to release pressure, so releasing pressure to atmosphere instead of recirculating it shouldn't make any difference, v1 engines with external bovs would be doing odd things if that was the case. I'll be the test bunny and report my findings, if it ends up not working well, then back to stock it will go.
 

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The Juke (gen 1 and gen 2) use a recirculating valve. This is because the engine uses a MAF or metered air. The ECU has accounted for that air and estimated how much it should be getting so it knows how much fuel to put in to keep the air fuel ratio in range based on the fuel tables and throttle position, engine load, etc. If all of a sudden the throttle is closed, that air has to go somewhere. If it dumps to atmosphere, the engine goes very rich very quick and could create a catastrophic event. If the air stays in the intake between the throttle body and turbo it can put enough back pressure on the turbo to cause turbo flutter where the pressure wants to resist the turbo spooling down and potentially spin the turbo backwards which again could cause a catastrophic event. By recirculating the air, the engine consumes the air it has already accounted for so there’s not so much back pressure on the turbo and the engine won’t go as rich as if it were just dumped to atmosphere.

if you don’t believe it, go for a spirited drive while dumping boost to atmosphere and you will notice the car drives like absolute poo. Not to mention the other threads where people have discussed the downside to venting to atmosphere.
 

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The juke is a recirculating system, so dumping 100% to atmosphere will ALWAYS cause problems. The only way to get by it is to use a hybrid/adjustable dv/bov that does both recirc and dump.

A bov is not a performance part, it does not add anything to the vehicle. The only reasons to swap a dv is for better response & higher boost handling once tuned, or for replacement of an oem unit that has malfunctioned.

The risk vs benefit just isn't there. I would advise against it as well, unless there was a need. It can only be a source for problems (even just installation has the opportunity to introduce problems) and you will see/hear no benefit from it.
 

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The Juke (gen 1 and gen 2) use a recirculating valve. This is because the engine uses a MAF or metered air. The ECU has accounted for that air and estimated how much it should be getting so it knows how much fuel to put in to keep the air fuel ratio in range based on the fuel tables and throttle position, engine load, etc. If all of a sudden the throttle is closed, that air has to go somewhere. If it dumps to atmosphere, the engine goes very rich very quick and could create a catastrophic event. If the air stays in the intake between the throttle body and turbo it can put enough back pressure on the turbo to cause turbo flutter where the pressure wants to resist the turbo spoiling down and potentially spin the turbo backwards which again could cause a catastrophic event. By recirculating the air, the engine consumes the air it has already accounted for so there’s not so much back pressure on the turbo and the engine won’t go as rich as if it were just dumped to atmosphere.

if you don’t believe it, go for a spirited drive while dumping boost to atmosphere and you will notice the car drives like absolute poo. Not to mention the other threads where people have discussed the downside to venting to atmosphere.
Doesn't the v2 engine use both maf as well as a map sensor?
I thought turbo flutter normally happened when it doesn't vent fast enough. I understand what you're saying in regards to a backfire, but is that highly likely to occur?
I've seen several videos of people fitting similar products to other vehicles without issue, so, if it becomes a problem then I'll remove it.

I have also found a reply from another forum in regards to maf vehicle being fitted with basically the same product:


In regards to a MAF system, and while typically, on the vast majority of other MAF applications, it is not recommended to use an atmospheric valve, in the application in which the valve used in the system is fully electronically controlled by the ECU, giving the ECU full control over when to open the valve or not.
The spacer does convert the OEM electronic recirculating valve into an atmospheric valve, and while there is a very minor change in fuel trims, these changes are well within safe operating perameters of the ECU and it's adaptability. It is not even remotely enough to cause any problems whatsoever.

 

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I never said anything about backfire. Back pressure on the turbo only occurs when the built up boost is not vented or recirculated. Both the gen 1 and gen 2 use a MAP sensor to control the boost control solenoid valve duty cycle to open the waste gate to regulate the speed of the turbo and therefore the amount of boost in the system. The MAF sensor is used in closed loop fueling only as a verification that the correct amount of air is entering the engine. It actually knows how much should be entering by calculations based on engine temp, throttle position, boost level, engine load, air/fuel ratio sensor. If air escapes the intake tract after the MAF, the engine does not know about it and is still dumping the amount of fuel needed as if the air was still there. Ergo, the air fuel mixture goes very rich and can cause problems.

You might not have a problem with venting to atmosphere, but most closed loop systems don’t react well to it.
 

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I never said anything about backfire. Back pressure on the turbo only occurs when the built up boost is not vented or recirculated. Both the gen 1 and gen 2 use a MAP sensor to control the boost control solenoid valve duty cycle to open the waste gate to regulate the speed of the turbo and therefore the amount of boost in the system. The MAF sensor is used in closed loop fueling only as a verification that the correct amount of air is entering the engine. It actually knows how much should be entering by calculations based on engine temp, throttle position, boost level, engine load, air/fuel ratio sensor. If air escapes the intake tract after the MAF, the engine does not know about it and is still dumping the amount of fuel needed as if the air was still there. Ergo, the air fuel mixture goes very rich and can cause problems.

You might not have a problem with venting to atmosphere, but most closed loop systems don’t react well to it.
Understood, but the problem you were trying to describe originally would be classified as a backfire, to much fuel dumped, then a catastrophic event which could occur....or something along those lines. I understand how a maf sensor works (dual senior master through Ford). Also, yes, I understand that flutter occurs when there is not enough venting when required, normally additional venting eases strain on turbochargers. The main thing that gets me is that there are so many vehicles in the world that vent to atmosphere without any issues, i understand that improper tuning of a traditional b.o.v. can cause issues, but on the electronically controlled unit, the ecm sets when it vents, also, if the map sensor sees changes in pressures, it will adjust for it also, with the redundant systems in place I'm not thinking there will be an issue. When it arrives I'll definitely check it out and monitor live data to double check and if all is good I'll report back, if not and I see some odd readings or driveability concerns I will pass that info along also. It seems that this debate is pretty common along multiple platforms in support and opposition. I'm just going to see for myself, especially since I haven't heard or seen alot of v2 using some sort of dv spacer / vent and instead have seen the generic arguments in support and opposition for venting to atmosphere. I'll work with the live stream data I see, either way it'll be good to see if it is a negative, positive or neutral modification.
 

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Have fun running a Juke that drives like poo venting to atmosphere.

I’ve explained things with the Juke based on research, past experience, and other user reports you just don’t quite seem to grasp.
 

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Have fun running a Juke that drives like poo venting to atmosphere.

I’ve explained things with the Juke based on research, past experience, and other user reports you just don’t quite seem to grasp.
If you could grasp and understand what i just responded with, maybe you wouldn't be so snappy.

As I stated, I am going to log and review live data, as well as check for driveability concerns, you know? actual real life data.....technicians (people like me) use this data.

I saw this thread and thought I would try to add to it constructively with something that I found from someone who is happy and has not had any issues using the product, but as with many forums, there is always a person who gets snappy, ridiculous and belittling with their responses, because they've read it before and that was their data.
READ THIS:
I am going to use real data, if the data shows a negative effect, I'll share and discourage the use as well, describing in laymen terms why (so that all can understand and grasp)
If no negative effects per the data, I'll share that as well (again so all can understand and grasp).....but please share with me actual readouts for a/f trim of before and after this modification, any stored event data for faults related to the modification, etc and I'll take a look.
Your last response is pretty ridiculous, especially when someone is a new member and does understand real technical terminology and data.
Most moderators do better.
Take my comments for what they are, remove me from the forum, block me or whatever, but please do everyone a favor and provide data and reseresearch that apparently you have and then I'll trust the data. There is way too much debate and it is all over the place about the topic (kinda wishing i just stayed quite). Just as in my previous posts and responses, I'll install, monitor, and advise, because I have not seen real data (as of now anyways) and when searching for v2, this thread came up.
 

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If you could grasp and understand what i just responded with, maybe you wouldn't be so snappy.

As I stated, I am going to log and review live data, as well as check for driveability concerns, you know? actual real life data.....technicians (people like me) use this data.

I saw this thread and thought I would try to add to it constructively with something that I found from someone who is happy and has not had any issues using the product, but as with many forums, there is always a person who gets snappy, ridiculous and belittling with their responses, because they've read it before and that was their data.
READ THIS:
I am going to use real data, if the data shows a negative effect, I'll share and discourage the use as well, describing in laymen terms why (so that all can understand and grasp)
If no negative effects per the data, I'll share that as well (again so all can understand and grasp).....but please share with me actual readouts for a/f trim of before and after this modification, any stored event data for faults related to the modification, etc and I'll take a look.
Your last response is pretty ridiculous, especially when someone is a new member and does understand real technical terminology and data.
Most moderators do better.
Take my comments for what they are, remove me from the forum, block me or whatever, but please do everyone a favor and provide data and reseresearch that apparently you have and then I'll trust the data. There is way too much debate and it is all over the place about the topic (kinda wishing i just stayed quite). Just as in my previous posts and responses, I'll install, monitor, and advise, because I have not seen real data (as of now anyways) and when searching for v2, this thread came up.
It is all good.

like I said. Buy it Try it. Report back.

I am always looking for the diamond in the rough. A cheap part or mod that works. An underdog if you will.

I have tried numerous tests on the Juke. Mostly Intake and Exhaust. Some worked. Some didnt.

As long as you dont blow something up. It is all good.

One thing for sure is that the Recirc valve mods are spotty. Some work. Some dont. There is no rhyme or reason to it.

One thing we can all agree on is the OEM valves suck.
 

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Exactly the point I'm trying to get across, especially since it isn't a huge mod or a hack job. I agree on the oem valve. Do you know of any upgraded / aftermarket electronic diverter valves that are actually worth it?
 
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