Hello I have a 2015 Nissan juke s and I’m trying to figure out the name for the cord that helps the windows go up and down on the driver’s side. Do anyone know? My regulator works it’s the cord attached.
Driver's window won't roll up or down
Just wanted to share my experience with a driver's window malfunction in case anyone else has the same problem.
Symptom: Pressing the driver's window switch in either direction results in a tiny bump then stops. By tiny bump, I mean the window budges about 1/32 of an inch in the direction pressed. If you press the switch repeatedly about 30 or 40 times the window has moved about an inch.
Ordered a replacement window motor/regulator assembly from eBay, it was about $85 (far cheaper than auto parts stores and far, far cheaper than Nissan OEM). It was actually pretty easy to swap out, but it didn't fix the problem.
I ordered a replacement master switch module (the whole assembly in the driver's door containing all 4 window switches, door lock switch, and child lockout switch) from a salvage yard on eBay (also about $80, there were some cheaper but this one was closer to me for faster shipping). That fixed the problem.
Just gotta sell my used motor/regulator assembly on eBay to get some of the money back on that. Just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same symptoms, try the switch assembly first.
Symptom: Pressing the driver's window switch in either direction results in a tiny bump then stops. By tiny bump, I mean the window budges about 1/32 of an inch in the direction pressed. If you press the switch repeatedly about 30 or 40 times the window has moved about an inch.
Ordered a replacement window motor/regulator assembly from eBay, it was about $85 (far cheaper than auto parts stores and far, far cheaper than Nissan OEM). It was actually pretty easy to swap out, but it didn't fix the problem.
I ordered a replacement master switch module (the whole assembly in the driver's door containing all 4 window switches, door lock switch, and child lockout switch) from a salvage yard on eBay (also about $80, there were some cheaper but this one was closer to me for faster shipping). That fixed the problem.
Just gotta sell my used motor/regulator assembly on eBay to get some of the money back on that. Just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same symptoms, try the switch assembly first.
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Are you sure its the wiring harness to the switches and not the switches ?
Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestion and the detail. Recently picked up a '14 Juke for my Stepdaughter and its been one thing after another - this was a recent problem.Never been here until today and didn't find an answer that worked to "no driver's window movement". Window reset, motor reset switch (n/a), fuse, etc. I did however 'fix' the window with a method that I've seen anywhere (YT videos, forums, etc). Here's what I did on our 2013 Juke.
1. removed the door panel
2. reinstalled the door control panel
3. car on, the driver window switch is functional - verified using these steps
a. click heard from window control until, meaning the up and down DPST relays were actuating. The click implies relays and its not designed with a MOSFET H-Bridge.
b. pulled the 6-pin motor connector free. 2 of the 6 connector wires are larger gauge wire. These are the motor power wires.
c. measured the DC voltage on these wires in both switch positions. 12V one direction, -12V the other (don't know which is up and down and that doesn't matter). So the motor gets power, so the relay contacts are good and the window control unit functions so switch is good.
4. Checked the motor with these steps, again with the corresponding pins on the motor connector with the larger gauge wire
a. measured the DC resistance of the motor. It was a low resistance, value isn't important but this shows the motor coil is not open (ie fried).
b. connected a DC bench power supply with a output current limiter set to 5A (must use this, don't use a 12V battery, I repeat do not use a 12V for this test)
c. briefly enabled DC power output, monitored the current, went to 5A immediately. Reversed the + and - wires, same result.
5. Fixed the motor with these steps
a. removed the 3 10mm bolts, got the motor/gear box in a slightly different position
b. removed the 3 philips screws (don't drop those, ha ha), then gently remove the metal cover holding the DC motor magnets (the stator)
c. gently attempt to rotate the motor rotor (the thing with all the wires). The rotor is connect to a worm gear in the gear box, as you rotate, do not allow the rotor to work itself out the gear box.
d. my rotor was completely stuck in one direction (the up direction because our window is stuck up). So I turned it in the other direction, making sure that the rotor/worm stays in the gear box.
e. it became un-stuck and window moved slightly down, Yeah!
f. replaced the stator, tightened the 3 philips screws
g. replaced the 3 10mm bolts
h. reconnected the motor power
6. Final step
a. turned car on, rolled window a bit then up a bit but not the top.
b. performed a window reset, holding the window switch up for 10 seconds
c. reassembled the door panel
d. demoed for my wife, got kiss, then made dinner.
Hope these steps help some other spouse resulting a functional window and a kiss.
Your walkthrough really helped. I had the door trim removed and accessed the motor easily enough, once the housing was removed, a couple of turns on the motor until it frees up a bit.
One thing to add - well watch out for - is that the screw plates that the motor housing screws go into (looking at it side on: the little metal strips just under the screws) those can detach and slide out when you move the motor to a more accessible position for screw removal. Keep a finger on the outside of the housing and over the plate when you're screwing and unscrewing, and try to keep the motor more or less level.
You'll save yourself a lot of hassle trying to get the plate back out of the bottom of the door (30 minutes of fiddling about in the blazing sun).
Also thought I'd include this. Its a dismantling of a ford window motor (they go a few steps farther and attempt to clean the gears), but its a useful overview of whats inside for those who don't know what to expect. HOW TO FIX WINDOW MOTOR, CAR WINDOW DOES NOT GO UP DOWN FIX - YouTube
I'm not suggesting of course that anyone needs to go this far, its simply for background.
Again - thank you.
You're welcome, glad you can go to drive-up windows again!Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestion and the detail. Recently picked up a '14 Juke for my Stepdaughter and its been one thing after another - this was a recent problem.
Your walkthrough really helped. I had the door trim removed and accessed the motor easily enough, once the housing was removed, a couple of turns on the motor until it frees up a bit.
One thing to add - well watch out for - is that the screw plates that the motor housing screws go into (looking at it side on: the little metal strips just under the screws) those can detach and slide out when you move the motor to a more accessible position for screw removal. Keep a finger on the outside of the housing and over the plate when you're screwing and unscrewing, and try to keep the motor more or less level.
You'll save yourself a lot of hassle trying to get the plate back out of the bottom of the door (30 minutes of fiddling about in the blazing sun).
Also thought I'd include this. Its a dismantling of a ford window motor (they go a few steps farther and attempt to clean the gears), but its a useful overview of whats inside for those who don't know what to expect. HOW TO FIX WINDOW MOTOR, CAR WINDOW DOES NOT GO UP DOWN FIX - YouTube
I'm not suggesting of course that anyone needs to go this far, its simply for background.
Again - thank you.
I just 'fixed' the window again a couple days and remembered to take some photos for my original post. I've 'fixed' it about 4 now and got it down to 15 minutes.
21 - 24 of 24 Posts
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