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Just wanted to share my experience with a driver's window malfunction in case anyone else has the same problem.

Symptom: Pressing driver's window switch in either direction results in a tiny bump then stops. By tiny bump, I mean the window budges about 1/32 of an inch in the direction pressed. If you press the switch repeatedly about 30 or 40 times the window has moved about an inch.

Ordered a replacement window motor/regulator assembly off of ebay, it was about $85 (far cheaper than auto parts stores and far, far cheaper than Nissan OEM). It was actually pretty easy to swap out, but it didn't fix the problem.

Ordered a replacement master switch module (the whole assembly in the drivers door containing all 4 window switches, door lock switch, and child lockout switch) from a salvage yard on ebay (also about $80, there were some cheaper but this one was closer to me for faster shipping). That fixed the problem.

Just gotta sell my used motor/regulator assembly on ebay to get some of the money back on that. Just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same symptoms, try the switch assembly first.
 

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Thanks crow, that is super helpful.
 

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Awesome for the Tip. Sorry for the extra expense.
 

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Yeah, thanks for sharing. I will file that way in my memory banks just in case :)
 

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My Juke 2013 driver window won't go up or down. I took it once to the dealer and when it was there it decided to work well. It's now 2017 and I have to pay for any repairs. My window still doesn't work I'm thinking of buying the entire board with all the switches. Hopefully that works in my case.
 

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Welcome to the forum! if your window won't go up or down at all even a little bit, it could be either the switch or the motor/regulator. Sounds like you're on the right track starting with the switch. Keep us posted if that fixes your issue.
 

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Having a similar issue and would like some help diagnosing the cause.

My driver side window started "sticking" in the closed position and I could get it to move again by pulling down on the glass while activating the switch. I cleaned the glass and surrounding rubber hoping that it was just tree sap or something else causing the sticking.

However now weeks later I can't get it work at all. Weird thing is I can hear a faint beep coming from the switch if I repeatedly flip up/down quickly. Other windows work just fine.

Anyone familiar with the faint beeping coming from the switch assembly? I'd rather replace the switch or the motor myself but I'm not sure which one to buy.
 

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Most likely the motor.
 

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Never been here until today and didn't find an answer that worked to "no driver's window movement". Window reset, motor reset switch (n/a), fuse, etc. I did however 'fix' the window with a method that I've seen anywhere (YT videos, forums, etc). Here's what I did on our 2013 Juke.
1. removed the door panel
2. reinstalled the door control panel
3. car on, the driver window switch is functional - verified using these steps
a. click heard from window control until, meaning the up and down DPST relays were actuating. The click implies relays and its not designed with a MOSFET H-Bridge.
b. pulled the 6-pin motor connector free. 2 of the 6 connector wires are larger gauge wire. These are the motor power wires.
c. measured the DC voltage on these wires in both switch positions. 12V one direction, -12V the other (don't know which is up and down and that doesn't matter). So the motor gets power, so the relay contacts are good and the window control unit functions so switch is good.
4. Checked the motor with these steps, again with the corresponding pins on the motor connector with the larger gauge wire
a. measured the DC resistance of the motor. It was a low resistance, value isn't important but this shows the motor coil is not open (ie fried).
b. connected a DC bench power supply with a output current limiter set to 5A (must use this, don't use a 12V battery, I repeat do not use a 12V for this test)
c. briefly enabled DC power output, monitored the current, went to 5A immediately. Reversed the + and - wires, same result.
5. Fixed the motor with these steps
a. removed the 3 10mm bolts, got the motor/gear box in a slightly different position
b. removed the 3 philips screws (don't drop those, ha ha), then gently remove the metal cover holding the DC motor magnets (the stator)
c. gently attempt to rotate the motor rotor (the thing with all the wires). The rotor is connect to a worm gear in the gear box, as you rotate, do not allow the rotor to work itself out the gear box.
d. my rotor was completely stuck in one direction (the up direction because our window is stuck up). So I turned it in the other direction, making sure that the rotor/worm stays in the gear box.
e. it became un-stuck and window moved slightly down, Yeah!
f. replaced the stator, tightened the 3 philips screws
g. replaced the 3 10mm bolts
h. reconnected the motor power
6. Final step
a. turned car on, rolled window a bit then up a bit but not the top.
b. performed a window reset, holding the window switch up for 10 seconds
c. reassembled the door panel
d. demoed for my wife, got kiss, then made dinner.

Hope these steps help some other spouse resulting a functional window and a kiss.
 

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Just wanted to thank holla2040 for this write-up. Both my driver-side and passenger-side front windows have been stuck in the up position for months. I had checked the switches a while ago by swapping them temporarily to the functioning back windows in order to confirm the switches worked. I was getting ready to find the time to take it to a mechanic and pay hundreds to get the windows fixed until I found these instructions. I skipped the testing and just went straight to step 5. For my situation, turning the rotor wasn't enough to get the window to lower slightly; I had to gently force the window down a bit after rotating the rotor in the correct direction.
One thing I would add is that the soundproofing material needs to be peeled back in order to access the bolts in step 5a. It's held in place with a sticky tar-like substance that you must be careful to prevent from folding back on itself. Its a pain in the ass to un-stick and if you get it stuck on the foam soundproofing material it can be difficult to peel it away without tearing the foam. Ask me how I know! :rolleyes:
 

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Jukeinator, I'm smiling that my little post here helped another. Thanks for writing. Also, I didn't want to mention that tar adhesive. You're correct, what a PITA mess. Did you use a heat gun to un-stick it?
 

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No, it was the middle of a sunny day and I had been parked outside. The tar was warm enough to deal with without a heart gun, fortunately.
 
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