Thanks crow, that is super helpful.
Driver's window won't roll up or down
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Yeah, thanks for sharing. I will file that way in my memory banks just in case 
Never been here until today and didn't find an answer that worked to "no driver's window movement". Window reset, motor reset switch (n/a), fuse, etc. I did however 'fix' the window with a method that I've seen anywhere (YT videos, forums, etc). Here's what I did on our 2013 Juke.
1. removed the door panel
2. reinstalled the door control panel
3. car on, the driver window switch is functional - verified using these steps
a. click heard from window control until, meaning the up and down DPST relays were actuating. The click implies relays and its not designed with a MOSFET H-Bridge.
b. pulled the 6-pin motor connector free. 2 of the 6 connector wires are larger gauge wire. These are the motor power wires.
c. measured the DC voltage on these wires in both switch positions. 12V one direction, -12V the other (don't know which is up and down and that doesn't matter). So the motor gets power, so the relay contacts are good and the window control unit functions so switch is good.
4. Checked the motor with these steps, again with the corresponding pins on the motor connector with the larger gauge wire
a. measured the DC resistance of the motor. It was a low resistance, value isn't important but this shows the motor coil is not open (ie fried).
b. connected a DC bench power supply with a output current limiter set to 5A (must use this, don't use a 12V battery, I repeat do not use a 12V for this test)
c. briefly enabled DC power output, monitored the current, went to 5A immediately. Reversed the + and - wires, same result.
5. Fixed the motor with these steps
a. removed the 3 10mm bolts, got the motor/gear box in a slightly different position
b. removed the 3 philips screws (don't drop those, ha ha), then gently remove the metal cover holding the DC motor magnets (the stator)
c. gently attempt to rotate the motor rotor clockwise (the thing with all the wires). The rotor is connect to a worm gear in the gear box, as you rotate, do not allow the rotor to work itself out the gear box.
d. my rotor was completely stuck in one direction (the up direction because our window is stuck up). So I turned it clockwise, making sure that the rotor/worm stays in the gear box.
e. it became un-stuck and window moved slightly down, Yeah!
f. replaced the stator, tightened the 3 philips screws
g. replaced the 3 10mm bolts
h. reconnected the motor power
6. Final step
a. turned car on, rolled window a bit then up a bit but not the top.
b. performed a window reset, holding the window switch up for 10 seconds
c. reassembled the door panel
d. demoed for my wife, got kiss, then made dinner.
Hope these steps help some other spouse resulting a functional window and a kiss.
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1. removed the door panel
2. reinstalled the door control panel
3. car on, the driver window switch is functional - verified using these steps
a. click heard from window control until, meaning the up and down DPST relays were actuating. The click implies relays and its not designed with a MOSFET H-Bridge.
b. pulled the 6-pin motor connector free. 2 of the 6 connector wires are larger gauge wire. These are the motor power wires.
c. measured the DC voltage on these wires in both switch positions. 12V one direction, -12V the other (don't know which is up and down and that doesn't matter). So the motor gets power, so the relay contacts are good and the window control unit functions so switch is good.
4. Checked the motor with these steps, again with the corresponding pins on the motor connector with the larger gauge wire
a. measured the DC resistance of the motor. It was a low resistance, value isn't important but this shows the motor coil is not open (ie fried).
b. connected a DC bench power supply with a output current limiter set to 5A (must use this, don't use a 12V battery, I repeat do not use a 12V for this test)
c. briefly enabled DC power output, monitored the current, went to 5A immediately. Reversed the + and - wires, same result.
5. Fixed the motor with these steps
a. removed the 3 10mm bolts, got the motor/gear box in a slightly different position
b. removed the 3 philips screws (don't drop those, ha ha), then gently remove the metal cover holding the DC motor magnets (the stator)
c. gently attempt to rotate the motor rotor clockwise (the thing with all the wires). The rotor is connect to a worm gear in the gear box, as you rotate, do not allow the rotor to work itself out the gear box.
d. my rotor was completely stuck in one direction (the up direction because our window is stuck up). So I turned it clockwise, making sure that the rotor/worm stays in the gear box.
e. it became un-stuck and window moved slightly down, Yeah!
f. replaced the stator, tightened the 3 philips screws
g. replaced the 3 10mm bolts
h. reconnected the motor power
6. Final step
a. turned car on, rolled window a bit then up a bit but not the top.
b. performed a window reset, holding the window switch up for 10 seconds
c. reassembled the door panel
d. demoed for my wife, got kiss, then made dinner.
Hope these steps help some other spouse resulting a functional window and a kiss.
Just wanted to thank holla2040 for this write-up. Both my driver-side and passenger-side front windows have been stuck in the up position for months. I had checked the switches a while ago by swapping them temporarily to the functioning back windows in order to confirm the switches worked. I was getting ready to find the time to take it to a mechanic and pay hundreds to get the windows fixed until I found these instructions. I skipped the testing and just went straight to step 5. For my situation, turning the rotor wasn't enough to get the window to lower slightly; I had to gently force the window down a bit after rotating the rotor in the correct direction.
One thing I would add is that the soundproofing material needs to be peeled back in order to access the bolts in step 5a. It's held in place with a sticky tar-like substance that you must be careful to prevent from folding back on itself. Its a pain in the ass to un-stick and if you get it stuck on the foam soundproofing material it can be difficult to peel it away without tearing the foam. Ask me how I know!
One thing I would add is that the soundproofing material needs to be peeled back in order to access the bolts in step 5a. It's held in place with a sticky tar-like substance that you must be careful to prevent from folding back on itself. Its a pain in the ass to un-stick and if you get it stuck on the foam soundproofing material it can be difficult to peel it away without tearing the foam. Ask me how I know!
the problem is i cant find any same parts number from other nissans, but quite a few of them got the same outlook and sockets as juke, and i cant get juke 1 from local. good news is, i ordered 1 from our local online seller and the switch reached yesterday. changed and tested, perfect fit and works well.
so now i can confirmed that juke f15 main switch sharing with xtrail t32, sylphy b17, serena c26 & teana j33. hope this can help some others who having problem on finding juke main switch.
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